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How ironic you'd give me this advice after I did just that. XD

No matter though, I'm up into the echelon of Class D Licence! Not sure what I wanna be just yet. Would love to haul arse in the Falcon/Commodore V8 Supercar, but I'd also love to have a go of the GT's...

For class D, The mustang and Skippy are great cars to run. They are a lot of fun and teach a lot.
 
How ironic you'd give me this advice after I did just that. XD

No matter though, I'm up into the echelon of Class D Licence! Not sure what I wanna be just yet. Would love to haul arse in the Falcon/Commodore V8 Supercar, but I'd also love to have a go of the GT's...
Trust me you dont want the V8 Supercar because dear god how anyone can drive that thing is beyond me, you will be crashing almost non stop. I wanted to race the V8s so bad but i have a hard time believing that they handle this bad in real life as the game depicts. Alot of it is setup but that will only help you so much.
 
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I don't think it's that bad of a car but, I wouldn't race official races with it. Only league races with a group of people that you race regularly. Definitely not something I recommend for someone who hasn't at least spent 6 months to a year on the service, or below a C license
 
Trust me you dont want the V8 Supercar because dear god how anyone can drive that thing is beyond me, you will be crashing almost non stop. I wanted to race the V8s so bad but i have a hard time believing that they this bad in real life as the game depicts. Alot of it is setup but that will only help you so much.

My thoughts exactly. I can't get anywhere near the top times with a baseline setup. I think I'm something like 5-6 seconds a lap off the pace, and I already feel like I'm pushing the car to the max. It just doesn't make any sense. I want to race the car so badly but, it is the definition of undriveable. I can't imagine it would be this hard to drive in real life. Nobody would drive it because it would cost too much money for repairs and it would be insanely scary.
 
My thoughts exactly. I can't get anywhere near the top times with a baseline setup. I think I'm something like 5-6 seconds a lap off the pace, and I already feel like I'm pushing the car to the max. It just doesn't make any sense. I want to race the car so badly but, it is the definition of undriveable. I can't imagine it would be this hard to drive in real life. Nobody would drive it because it would cost too much money for repairs and it would be insanely scary.
Trust me you dont want the V8 Supercar because dear god how anyone can drive that thing is beyond me, you will be crashing almost non stop. I wanted to race the V8s so bad but i have a hard time believing that they this bad in real life as the game depicts. Alot of it is setup but that will only help you so much.
Add me to that list! There is just no way in hell a purpose built tube frame race car could handle so horribly poorly, regardless of Diff type!
iRacing's V8 Super Cars are simply a joke!
 
The rear end never stays planted ever its terrible. No matter how much you soften the suspension to get it to bite better it barely makes a difference. Its like the tires are made out of empty tape rolls.
 
See this is what everyone complains about in the V8. "Oh I can't drive it."

Well, It is 1000% better than the old gen car. But is still a big heavy overpowered, undertyred sedan that has zero downforce. What catches most people out is they try and drive it like a GT3 car which will get you simply nowhere.

Take the car for laps around the weeks track. Go as slow as you need to to safely make it around the track. The V8s are strictly a time and effort car you can not simply arrive and drive and expect to be fast. It just doesn't work that way.

Another thing to remember is the rear wheels are locked together at the same speed. There is no diff at all, no slip, no give, no exceptions, no nothing. You spin the rear wheels you go around. You lock the rear brakes you go around. Unless you know how to properly react to what you have made the car do. You will crash, And spectacularly.


The fast guys have given a detailed explanation on how to learn this car and go faster. However many people are arrogant and smug and just don't listen. These are the people who will fail severely in this car.

Main Points...
- Brake early - The car weighs 1500kgs
- Brake straight - As soon as you lock a front brake you are almost always certainly in for a holiday off the road
- Accelerator control - There is a baby under the pedal this is where many people fall over the tyres don't have much grip and as soon as you light them up the tyres will kill you.
- Managing weight transfer - This is a heavy car you have to carefully manage where the weight goes and how smooth it goes there.

I will attach my Bathurst set. It is pretty stable with enough turn and grip that the average Joe will find easily drivable. If not then this car just isn't for you.

(I need help attaching the setup file. GTP does not allow .sto files)
 
Main Points...
- Brake early - The car weighs 1500kgs
- Brake straight - As soon as you lock a front brake you are almost always certainly in for a holiday off the road
- Accelerator control - There is a baby under the pedal this is where many people fall over the tyres don't have much grip and as soon as you light them up the tyres will kill you.
- Managing weight transfer - This is a heavy car you have to carefully manage where the weight goes and how smooth it goes there.

I will attach my Bathurst set. It is pretty stable with enough turn and grip that the average Joe will find easily drivable. If not then this car just isn't for you.

(I need help attaching the setup file. GTP does not allow .sto files)

Try racesetups.com
it's like trading paints for setups

Basically, it's a legend car with 3 or 4 times the weight. No nannies, no high tech drive train or suspension.
 
Uh...You do realize that the new v8s have Independent rear suspension right ?? And a rear transaxle. Still hard to drive but much much more forgiving.
 
Trust me you dont want the V8 Supercar because dear god how anyone can drive that thing is beyond me, you will be crashing almost non stop. I wanted to race the V8s so bad but i have a hard time believing that they handle this bad in real life as the game depicts. Alot of it is setup but that will only help you so much.
My thoughts exactly. I can't get anywhere near the top times with a baseline setup. I think I'm something like 5-6 seconds a lap off the pace, and I already feel like I'm pushing the car to the max. It just doesn't make any sense. I want to race the car so badly but, it is the definition of undriveable. I can't imagine it would be this hard to drive in real life. Nobody would drive it because it would cost too much money for repairs and it would be insanely scary.
Jeez. It's a tough car to get used to, sure , but when you do you should be within a couple of seconds off the pole on a 60second track. And even less on race-pace, since top quali times are done on some crazy sets good for one lap.


I find that there are many styles people can use to drive the car quick, but as usual being smooth is one of them. Just drive some laps on the baseline (which is decent) or setups that people post in relevant threads in a given week. It's all about precision. How you dial in steering while gradually coming off the brakes, how you add throttle to maximize acceleration given track bumps/dips/camber.

See this is what everyone complains about in the V8. "Oh I can't drive it."

Well, It is 1000% better than the old gen car. But is still a big heavy overpowered, undertyred sedan that has zero downforce. What catches most people out is they try and drive it like a GT3 car which will get you simply nowhere.

Take the car for laps around the weeks track. Go as slow as you need to to safely make it around the track. The V8s are strictly a time and effort car you can not simply arrive and drive and expect to be fast. It just doesn't work that way.

Another thing to remember is the rear wheels are locked together at the same speed. There is no diff at all, no slip, no give, no exceptions, no nothing. You spin the rear wheels you go around. You lock the rear brakes you go around. Unless you know how to properly react to what you have made the car do. You will crash, And spectacularly.
Agreed in general. Although the new car is almost like the GT3 car in the hands of faster drivers.
- Brake straight - As soon as you lock a front brake you are almost always certainly in for a holiday off the road
No. Fast people trail brake a lot, almost to the apex, and also tap brakes when they find themselves understeering. You have to maintain brake until apex, otherwise the rear inside loads too much and you're plowing. Cannot just coast and keep turning (on most setups).

Basically I'd say do this to get a handle on the car:
-Brake early and hard (move BB around--during the race too--so that the rear doesn't come around while braking straight).
-Gradually come off brakes and start dialing quite a bit of steering, brake till the apex. There's a pretty thin range of yaw rates where the inside rear unloads enough to allow decent rotation, the key to cornering is to keep that weight transfer state long enough.
-As usual - big smooth steering input arcs, but be ready to dial in some opposite lock, especially when adding power.
-Apex later than you think, to be able to got WOT sooner.
-AS SOON AS you're off the brakes add some throttle, 30-40% usually, and then keep adding. Quick people are mostly quick in how they go on throttle. Do not go WOT until the rear end has settled.
-Some people drag a bit of throttle in corners all the time. Supposedly this is what you do in cars with spool instead of a diff, not sure.
-Must use in-car swaybar adjustments during the race, cannot just load a set and go the whole race. The rear end rises as fuel gets spent, making it oversteer, tires car wear unevenly, having effects both ways.

The biggest V8 series downfall (for us in NA) is that it's hugely popular down under and not very popular up here. So most high-SOF splits are ran on Aussie servers, with pretty big lag and huge potential for netcode bumps that will ruin races.

That said, checkout this league: http://grasim.freeforums.net/
Runs on Tuesday nights at 8 EST.

TL-DR: to turn in this car you have to keep the inside rear tire unloaded enough so that it slips. Doing so takes precision, and lots of seat time to build muscle memory.
 
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I have a weird issue that has popped up all of a sudden (I didn't race for the last half of season 4 til now). Indycar at Iowa fixed, my wheel seems to either lag in game or something to that nature. I can't always downshift with the paddles even though I have gone through and checked via sim and outside that, it will usually get caught in a dead spot where the sim doesn't pick up I'm doing anything in the corner.

I did reinstall Iracing just to make sure but it's odd because it will be fine for laps. It will happen randomly in a corner where the steering wheel in the seem is behind or stuck for a second then I lose the FFB in the wheel til it comes back right after.

This is all on a G27
 
Do the pedals jam in the place they were when the wheel in game freezes? I had that on mine on my attempt at playing the other day. Moving to a different USB fixed it. Not sure if mine us the same issue as yours though.

I had it in the back on my PC but moved it to a USB I knew worked on the front.
 
Do the pedals jam in the place they were when the wheel in game freezes? I had that on mine on my attempt at playing the other day. Moving to a different USB fixed it. Not sure if mine us the same issue as yours though.

I had it in the back on my PC but moved it to a USB I knew worked on the front.

Pedals worked fine, I did 2 things...and now it works. I restarted the computer (which normally is always off unless I am on Iracing or another sim), loaded the profiler then plugged the wheel into another USB and let it do it's thing. I haven't had an issue since, another thing I found out is that you can't go from 5th to 4th after you get up to speed unless you slow down. I figured it was like the old Indycar where you could shift into 4th in the corner, that was the other issue.

All is well!
 
Pedals worked fine, I did 2 things...and now it works. I restarted the computer (which normally is always off unless I am on Iracing or another sim), loaded the profiler then plugged the wheel into another USB and let it do it's thing. I haven't had an issue since, another thing I found out is that you can't go from 5th to 4th after you get up to speed unless you slow down. I figured it was like the old Indycar where you could shift into 4th in the corner, that was the other issue.

All is well!

Some cars that have the electronic trans wont let you downshift if it knows that the revs will be too high. So you can keep hitting that downshift all day but it will never do it. Can be really annoying sometimes when your trying to quickly run down the gears and you gotta hit it an extra time.
 
See this is what everyone complains about in the V8. "Oh I can't drive it."

Well, It is 1000% better than the old gen car. But is still a big heavy overpowered, undertyred sedan that has zero downforce. What catches most people out is they try and drive it like a GT3 car which will get you simply nowhere.

Take the car for laps around the weeks track. Go as slow as you need to to safely make it around the track. The V8s are strictly a time and effort car you can not simply arrive and drive and expect to be fast. It just doesn't work that way.

Another thing to remember is the rear wheels are locked together at the same speed. There is no diff at all, no slip, no give, no exceptions, no nothing. You spin the rear wheels you go around. You lock the rear brakes you go around. Unless you know how to properly react to what you have made the car do. You will crash, And spectacularly.


The fast guys have given a detailed explanation on how to learn this car and go faster. However many people are arrogant and smug and just don't listen. These are the people who will fail severely in this car.

Main Points...
- Brake early - The car weighs 1500kgs
- Brake straight - As soon as you lock a front brake you are almost always certainly in for a holiday off the road
- Accelerator control - There is a baby under the pedal this is where many people fall over the tyres don't have much grip and as soon as you light them up the tyres will kill you.
- Managing weight transfer - This is a heavy car you have to carefully manage where the weight goes and how smooth it goes there.

I will attach my Bathurst set. It is pretty stable with enough turn and grip that the average Joe will find easily drivable. If not then this car just isn't for you.

(I need help attaching the setup file. GTP does not allow .sto files)

Jeez. It's a tough car to get used to, sure , but when you do you should be within a couple of seconds off the pole on a 60second track. And even less on race-pace, since top quali times are done on some crazy sets good for one lap.


I find that there are many styles people can use to drive the car quick, but as usual being smooth is one of them. Just drive some laps on the baseline (which is decent) or setups that people post in relevant threads in a given week. It's all about precision. How you dial in steering while gradually coming off the brakes, how you add throttle to maximize acceleration given track bumps/dips/camber.


Agreed in general. Although the new car is almost like the GT3 car in the hands of faster drivers.

No. Fast people trail brake a lot, almost to the apex, and also tap brakes when they find themselves understeering. You have to maintain brake until apex, otherwise the rear inside loads too much and you're plowing. Cannot just coast and keep turning (on most setups).

Basically I'd say do this to get a handle on the car:
-Brake early and hard (move BB around--during the race too--so that the rear doesn't come around while braking straight).
-Gradually come off brakes and start dialing quite a bit of steering, brake till the apex. There's a pretty thin range of yaw rates where the inside rear unloads enough to allow decent rotation, the key to cornering is to keep that weight transfer state long enough.
-As usual - big smooth steering input arcs, but be ready to dial in some opposite lock, especially when adding power.
-Apex later than you think, to be able to got WOT sooner.
-AS SOON AS you're off the brakes add some throttle, 30-40% usually, and then keep adding. Quick people are mostly quick in how they go on throttle. Do not go WOT until the rear end has settled.
-Some people drag a bit of throttle in corners all the time. Supposedly this is what you do in cars with spool instead of a diff, not sure.
-Must use in-car swaybar adjustments during the race, cannot just load a set and go the whole race. The rear end rises as fuel gets spent, making it oversteer, tires car wear unevenly, having effects both ways.

The biggest V8 series downfall (for us in NA) is that it's hugely popular down under and not very popular up here. So most high-SOF splits are ran on Aussie servers, with pretty big lag and huge potential for netcode bumps that will ruin races.

That said, checkout this league: http://grasim.freeforums.net/
Runs on Tuesday nights at 8 EST.

TL-DR: to turn in this car you have to keep the inside rear tire unloaded enough so that it slips. Doing so takes precision, and lots of seat time to build muscle memory.

This is all pretty basic information for driving any car fast. Not necessarily the V8 Supercar. If you look at any of my real life or more recent iRacing on board, bar the car adjustments, everything is pretty much the same as what you're saying here.

Random question but, nobody would happen to have a Fanatec Wheel Base invitation code. Would really like to purchase one before I move to Europe as it is a heck of a lot more expensive there.
 
This is all pretty basic information for driving any car fast. Not necessarily the V8 Supercar. If you look at any of my real life or more recent iRacing on board, bar the car adjustments, everything is pretty much the same as what you're saying here.

Most of it is. You don't have to unload the rear inside almost to the point of hanging it above the track in RWD cars with a proper differential. The V8 just doesn't rotate fast if you don't transfer just enough weight off the rear inside. In a GT3 car you can still rotate it okay. Like I said, it's just about running some laps and finding the sweet spot. I'm sure you're quick and smooth, there's no reason you couldn't be 1-2% off the pole with just a bit of practice, and even faster with a lot of practice. The V8 is just a knife-edge kind of car, and that edge is moving around with tire wear/fuel consumption. I can share my set and a decent lap replay if you're interested, I'm getting started tomorrow at Road America, or we can find a time to jump into practice.
 
Some cars that have the electronic trans wont let you downshift if it knows that the revs will be too high. So you can keep hitting that downshift all day but it will never do it. Can be really annoying sometimes when your trying to quickly run down the gears and you gotta hit it an extra time.

Which makes perfect sense but it didn't click in my head til later as to why it wouldn't down shift. Now that I know that, haven't had an issue since because I wasn't expecting it to be able to down shift like you did in the old Dallara (still can't figure out which car I like better, one is easier which is nice but I liked the fact that the old one actually make you pay for mistakes).
 
If I can manage i might put up a video of me doing a lap at Road America. I was pretty much on pace at Summit Point.
Beau Cubis was pole on a 1:09.792, I managed a 1:10.359. And finished 9th in the main top split SOF So my info shouidn't really be thrown to the wayside i do know how to drive the car.

Yes you use a lot of trail braking, However I'm only talking 5 - 10% of brake force. Mind you that is after you have slowed the car to the correct apex speed.
 
Most of it is. You don't have to unload the rear inside almost to the point of hanging it above the track in RWD cars with a proper differential. The V8 just doesn't rotate fast if you don't transfer just enough weight off the rear inside. In a GT3 car you can still rotate it okay. Like I said, it's just about running some laps and finding the sweet spot. I'm sure you're quick and smooth, there's no reason you couldn't be 1-2% off the pole with just a bit of practice, and even faster with a lot of practice. The V8 is just a knife-edge kind of car, and that edge is moving around with tire wear/fuel consumption. I can share my set and a decent lap replay if you're interested, I'm getting started tomorrow at Road America, or we can find a time to jump into practice.

Unfortunately my second pair of clubsport pedals have had their 4th sensor go bad on the accelerator so, I have to buy a new set of pedals before I do anymore simracing :(
 
Unfortunately my second pair of clubsport pedals have had their 4th sensor go bad on the accelerator so, I have to buy a new set of pedals before I do anymore simracing :(

Yikes! I've been battling my throttle sensor for the past couple of months. Sometimes I have to unplug it from my computer and replug it back it and rejoin the session, abs the screws get loose over time. Luckily, I have yet to replace anything, not even a load cell, which I bought 2 spares of when it released.

I just found out that the lightning SST shifter is no longer. I'm kind of bummed, I was thinking about getting one. I don't see very many h-pattern shifters on the market.
 
Unfortunately my second pair of clubsport pedals have had their 4th sensor go bad on the accelerator so, I have to buy a new set of pedals before I do anymore simracing :(
Yeah, replacing sensors on CSPs is getting old. I'm on my last good set of pots and have one spare loadcell left (no for long, current one seems to have began giving me some spiking brake inputs even when everything is freshly lubed up). After that it's upgrade time. Probably gonna splurge on some high-end pedals.
 
Yeah, replacing sensors on CSPs is getting old. I'm on my last good set of pots and have one spare loadcell left (no for long, current one seems to have began giving me some spiking brake inputs even when everything is freshly lubed up). After that it's upgrade time. Probably gonna splurge on some high-end pedals.

Check the two screws on the sides of the loadcell are tight
 
Guys can anyone help. I have a triple monitor display. I had to replace one of the monitors today so I thought all I would have to do is connect it up and it would work like before.... However one of the screens has a 'no signal' message. Any ideas?
 
Have you ever just had one racer you can't seem to get away from no matter what time you race? There is one guy who complains every race about not having a good one, admitted to wrecking someone and also wrecked me in the pits claiming everyone was 2 wide (which I HATE folks who can't stay to the outside of pitlane while traveling down it) but he was half a car behind me on my inside when I had to slow down to make my pit box he turns me.

If anyone wants to know, his name is Randy Cornwell and even a random guy I know via another site said he was same way in Indycars.
 
Have you ever just had one racer you can't seem to get away from no matter what time you race? There is one guy who complains every race about not having a good one, admitted to wrecking someone and also wrecked me in the pits claiming everyone was 2 wide (which I HATE folks who can't stay to the outside of pitlane while traveling down it) but he was half a car behind me on my inside when I had to slow down to make my pit box he turns me.

If anyone wants to know, his name is Randy Cornwell and even a random guy I know via another site said he was same way in Indycars.

Yeah, I always finish behind Nathan Growden. Usually he starts in front of me, and I slowly gain on him during the race. Then he usually finishes a second or less in front of me. Great guy, I talk to him very often and he races fun and clean.
 
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