Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

[morfei1]

Thank you, I wił try it, but I thing I tested similar settings yesterday. The problem is ffb in rf2 feel so “clicky” and when I try smooth it with filter, damper and smooth option in sim then I loose all detailes. Is it a different if I reguleted gain by general game gain rather then car specific? I was testing it using one car one livery and one truck. BMW M4 gt3 in Malaysia. For me best ffb is definitely in ACC. I feel traction, weigh distribution and suspension working great. And every thing is constant, I always know what’s is going on. In rf2 it feels rugged, uneven, grainy and clicky. Like a car would jump on bumps on corners

There is no general gain in-the game. What you see in the game settings is gain per car / livery.

To be honest, GT3 experience is not bad in rf2, but if you are looking for it, there is no better one than ACC. I drive mainly BTCC, M2, Porsche Cup in rf2. From time to time some open wheelers.

 

[WielkiChlop]

There is no general gain in-the game. What you see in the game settings is gain per car / livery.

To be honest, GT3 experience is not bad in rf2, but if you are looking for it, there is no better one than ACC. I drive mainly BTCC, M2, Porsche Cup in rf2. From time to time some open wheelers.

I thing it’s main in game gain

 

[Skinny McLean]

Is here someone who play rfactor 2 on g pro? I tried it and in my opinion it feels like trash ;p very grainy and robotic ffb. I tried different settings and didn find anything better. What are your thoughts about it? I play that game first time but read good opinions. But it’s night to day in comparison with acc, gt7 or i racing for me. Maybe g pro isn’t compatibilie with it?

I don't use a G Pro, but try lowering the in-game car specific FFB multiplier down to 30-50%. If it still feels grainy, up the in-game smoothing slider a click or two.

I thing it’s main in game gain

It is, but after experimenting with it I prefer to adjust the car specific FFB multiplier instead, as mentioned above. Different cars need different multipliers.

 

[WielkiChlop]

I don't use a G Pro, but try lowering the in-game car-specific FFB strength down to 30-50%. If it's still feels grainy, up the in-game smoothing slider a click or two.



It is, but to me it feels better to adjust the per-car FFB strength instead.

Ok, I will try it tomorrow

 

[morfei1]

View attachment 1308858

I thing it’s main in game gain

Sorry, my bad, I completely forgot about that slider. I keep "Force Feedback Strength"
always at 50%, considering the wheel base is at full power 11nm this gives me rafly about 5.5nm which is enough for me.

I use smoothing at 0, considering I use FFB filter in the wheel base at 10 and also Damper at 30 in the wheel base. Feel free to play with it from 0 to 3 if you feel the FFB grainy or robotic.

What play big role here is "Car Specific Multipalier". 100% is huge even on a weak car as Renault Clio RS. I have pain in the arms after long sessions using it 100%. I set this up at 80% for each car I drive and it feels nice in most of them. Feel free to play with it from 70 to 90 I would say, if you use my wheel base settings.

Hope it helps✌️

 

[Marky264]

Had a great weekend just gone. Caught up with @Jordan & Said hello to @Famine too!

I managed to have a go on the New Fanatec ClubSport DD+ 15Nm at the GTWS Finale in Barcelona very powerful. The DD Pro GT Rim itself really needs to be updated as it feels like such a cheap plastic toy in comparison to the Logitech G Pro. I'm so used to the TrueForce technology on GT & ACC that when you go back a step its so noticable. I fed back my thoughts to the Fanatec Rep but currently I'm thrilled with my wheel and no desire to change anytime soon. Looking forward to future products to add to it eventually when the time comes.

 

[NLR-13]

I managed to have a go on the New Fanatec ClubSport DD+ 15Nm at thr GTWS Finale in Barcelona very powerful. The Rim itself really needs to be updated as it feels like such a cheap plastic toy in comparison to the Logitech G Pro. I'm so used to the TrueForce technology on GT & ACC that when you go back a step its so noticable. I fed back my thoughts to the Fanatec Rep but currently I'm thrilled with my wheel and no desire to change anytime soon. Looking forward to future products to add to it eventually when the time comes.

Nice, thanks for the input. Hopefully, Logitech will bring us some new rims/wheels soon.

 

[morfei1]

@LOGI_Rich any idea why my wheel base angle settings resets at 900 though it's set at 1080?

I though it was because I also unplug it form the power cable when I stop using it. I stopped doing this, but today it was also at angle 900, though it was not unplugged from the power cable. For comparison yesterday everything was fine. Today and yesterday I only played ETS2. I always use Profile 1 for all my sims. All the rest of the settings are kept as they should.

I'm not exactly sure what causes this and if it's a feature or a bug in the firmware?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

It's the games setting the angle through the SDK. There's not much we can do about it in older titles (things are set in stone and the SDK is incorporated into the title) but as things go forwards this should change as the developers get used to having wheels from Logitech that aren't just 900 degrees.

 

[Met Entso]

Today I learnt that GT7 doens't allow H shifter in online races. Right after installing the support with the shifter and the adapter. So nice.

 

[morfei1]

It's the games setting the angle through the SDK. There's not much we can do about it in older titles (things are set in stone and the SDK is incorporated into the title) but as things go forwards this should change as the developers get used to having wheels from Logitech that aren't just 900 degrees.

the main "problem" in ETS2 is:

The game sets the wheel base at 900 but when you start driving if you go beyond 450 in on direction the physical wheel and the virtual wheel of the track are not aligned correctly which is a little bit strange if the game max angle is 900. Looks like virtual wheel goes to 1080 but the game restricts the physical wheel to just 900.

If I put the base manualy to 1080 both wheels are OK and perfectly aligned. I think there is no slider in the ETS2 to manually set the max angle of the wheel....

 

[LOGI_Rich]

There might not be a slider that sets it, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not setting it :-)

Which platform? If it's PlayStation then definitely what I said previously applies; if it's PC then we can take a look as the SDK is separate from the game.

 

[morfei1]

There might not be a slider that sets it, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not setting it :-)

Which platform? If it's PlayStation then definitely what I said previously applies; if it's PC then we can take a look as the SDK is separate from the game.

I play ETS2 on PC.

 

[morfei1]

Today I learnt that GT7 doens't allow H shifter in online races. Right after installing the support with the shifter and the adapter. So nice.

it was knowen from the very beggining. H-shifter gives some advantages during the start or something and it was restricted.

 

[Met Entso]

it was knowen from the very beggining. H-shifter gives some advantages during the start or something and it was restricted.

Yes i read about that... well at least it works on lobbies.

It seems the advantage comes from using the H shifter without the clutch, then you can skip gears faster than with sequantial. I dont totally understand it,

 

[morfei1]

Yes i read about that... well at least it works on lobbies.

It seems the advantage comes from using the H shifter without the clutch, then you can skip gears faster than with sequantial. I dont totally understand it,

Having some experience with the H-shifter I can"t really understand how one can be faster with it in gr.4 / gr.3 car class but it's what it is.

 

[Skinny McLean]

Yes i read about that... well at least it works on lobbies.

It seems the advantage comes from using the H shifter without the clutch, then you can skip gears faster than with sequantial. I dont totally understand it,

I have posted about how the exploit works here.

Having some experience with the H-shifter I can"t really understand how one can be faster with it in gr.4 / gr.3 car class but it's what it is.

It doesn't work on cars with sequential shifters.

 

[morfei1]

It doesn't work on cars with sequential shifters.

He may have a look in tuning shop for manual racing transmission. It it's available to be bought and is fitted in the car the shifter should work but is super unrealistic to drive a car that's not ment for h-shifter with it, imho.

 

[morfei1]

There might not be a slider that sets it, but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's not setting it :-)

Which platform? If it's PlayStation then definitely what I said previously applies; if it's PC then we can take a look as the SDK is separate from the game.

I don't think it's related to the game or game SDK - ETS2. Later, I started the game again and the steering angle was not changed to 900, but stayed at 1080. Considering, I have't play any other game for the last few days both on PC or PS5.

So far, I think it is related in a way with the power supply cable (not exactly sure yet) but will further observe it and report to you.

 

[Met Entso]

I have posted about how the exploit works here.

It doesn't work on cars with sequential shifters.

Thank you, it's incredible how PD simply doesn't care about the game sometimes. You point what it looks like a logical solution in that post.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

I don't think it's related to the game or game SDK - ETS2. Later, I started the game again and the steering angle was not changed to 900, but stayed at 1080. Considering, I have't play any other game for the last few days both on PC or PS5.

So far, I think it is related in a way with the power supply cable (not exactly sure yet) but will further observe it and report to you.

OLED settings are saved in non-volatile memory, so a power off/on won't affect them. I'm away from my main PC for today but I'll take a look when I'm back tomorrow and see if I can replicate in ETS2.

 

[morfei1]

OLED settings are saved in non-volatile memory, so a power off/on won't affect them. I'm away from my main PC for today but I'll take a look when I'm back tomorrow and see if I can replicate in ETS2.

I did another try today with the ETS2. Cold boot for the PC. The Wheel base was not unplugged from the power cable. The angle was still 1080.

I may also give a try to shut down the PC or put it into sleep without power off the wheel base from the red button. I really have no exact idea what is causing this but it's something that already happened to me more than 4-5 times I bought the wheel. I play with visable virtual wheel it's easy for me to see when the wheels are misaligned.

On PS5 I play only GT7 and ACC. I know GT7 setup the angle depending on the car and ACC on PS5 is same as ACC on PC - 1080.

 

[morfei1]

OLED settings are saved in non-volatile memory, so a power off/on won't affect them. I'm away from my main PC for today but I'll take a look when I'm back tomorrow and see if I can replicate in ETS2.

I found out something interesting today, and I was a little bit surprised.

I started my PS5 and I turned on my wheel. I checked the angle in the wheel base and it was 1080. Then I started ACC on PS5, I loaded the new hotlap event with the old Porsche I went to Spa and before I went out for some laps I checked if the wheels real and virtual were aligned and they weren't

Then, I enter again the wheel base settings and the angle was set / changed to 900. It was strange because the angel in the game settings is set at 1080.

So, deffo so far the ACC on PS5 mess up with the wheel base settings and looks like the game is bugged as most of it is on the console, sadly.

Hope you can report this to the game Devs and they fix it in the future.🤞

Pretty sure it's not a problem on ACC on PC but will check it also.

 

[Abarth_71]

I found out something interesting today, and I was a little bit surprised.

I started my PS5 and I turned on my wheel. I checked the angle in the wheel base and it was 1080. Then I started ACC on PS5, I loaded the new hotlap event with the old Porsche I went to Spa and before I went out for some laps I checked if the wheels real and virtual were aligned and they weren't

Then, I enter again the wheel base settings and the angle was set / changed to 900. It was strange because the angel in the game settings is set at 1080.

So, deffo so far the ACC on PS5 mess up with the wheel base settings and looks like the game is bugged as most of it is on the console, sadly.

Hope you can report this to the game Devs and they fix it in the future.🤞

Pretty sure it's not a problem on ACC on PC but will check it also.

I'm using a Fanatec but I match the wheel angle to my in game setting. There's a list of suggested settings for in game steer lock that differ by car so I go by that. Have a look here.

 

[morfei1]

I'm using a Fanatec but I match the wheel angle to my in game setting. There's a list of suggested settings for in game steer lock that differ by car so I go by that. Have a look here.

The soft lock does not work properly on ACC PS5.

On PC it's setup 1080 in game / 1080 in base, I drive Porsche 800 angle and it's fine, perfectly I sync for both wheels.

The problem here is no matter what, when you start ACC on PS5 it setup the base to 900 and you need to manually setup it to whatever you want, which I don't think is normal.

I know it's working fine on Fanatec. Have friends with it and we already test it.✌️

 

[smoothoperato]

hello all,

I purchased my Logitech G Pro wheel and pedal in the beginning of this year around Feb. I only play it on playstation 5 racing games (Gran Turismo 7 and F1 23).

Upon some google research, wheel firmware update can be done using G Hub software on PC by connecting the wheel to a PC. But seems like there are some reports firmware update killed the wheel to not work.

my question is...If I only use Logitech G Pro wheel and pedal to play playstation racing games, is it worth the hassle to do the firmware update? Will firmware update make the wheel much more useable and enjoyable for playstation racing games?

Is there still current risk of killing the wheel right now when updating firmware or is it fixed already?

 

[Cliph Pang]

Very good questions @smoothoperato , I was just about to ask them myself.

Hopefully someone will enlighten us..

 

[morfei1]

hello all,

I purchased my Logitech G Pro wheel and pedal in the beginning of this year around Feb. I only play it on playstation 5 racing games (Gran Turismo 7 and F1 23).

Upon some google research, wheel firmware update can be done using G Hub software on PC by connecting the wheel to a PC. But seems like there are some reports firmware update killed the wheel to not work.

my question is...If I only use Logitech G Pro wheel and pedal to play playstation racing games, is it worth the hassle to do the firmware update? Will firmware update make the wheel much more useable and enjoyable for playstation racing games?

Is there still current risk of killing the wheel right now when updating firmware or is it fixed already?

It's possible if during the fw update there is a power shortage, other than that I do t think fw itself can kill your base.

I updated mine during the summer, when I got it and resently found out there was a new one release in the fall, and I also update it.

fw wont make your wheel a complete new one, I mean big difference in terms of feeling FFB, so if you are ok the way it is, and you don't have any problems you can run it like this as long as you are ok with it.

 

[IfAndOr]

You don't have to, but it's always worth updating the firmware (and G hub) if you're able to. It allows for various fixes to not just the base but the wheel and pedals also. That's on PC and console.

Some of the main changes I remember.
Support for the adapter was introduced. The Trueforce and direct input menu items have been combined - the base now recognises which one it needs to. There was a fix to reduce the slight oscillation of the wheel. You are now able to realign the wheel if needed. Plus other various underlying tweaks.

Reports of the updating killing the wheel are often over exaggerated. It is the internet after all. I think it actually auto restarts if there's a problem. Personally I've never had any trouble with an update.

 

[Supercededman]

You don't have to, but it's always worth updating the firmware (and G hub) if you're able to. It allows for various fixes to not just the base but the wheel and pedals also. That's on PC and console.

Some of the main changes I remember.
Support for the adapter was introduced. The Trueforce and direct input menu items have been combined - the base now recognises which one it needs to. There was a fix to reduce the slight oscillation of the wheel. You are now able to realign the wheel if needed. Plus other various underlying tweaks.

Reports of the updating killing the wheel are often over exaggerated. It is the internet after all. I think it actually auto restarts if there's a problem. Personally I've never had any trouble with an update.

Most people (I'm one) bought the G Pro for PnP, but your advice is spot on re connecting to a PC and G Hub to get updates. I bought the adapter (though I haven't used it). The various tweaks you mention are also important. Thankyou.