Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

I can not even begin to explain just how helpful this thread was for my sanity today.... I got the wheel TODAY and played for hours just being genuinely disappointed in the feedback strength, then randomly after a reboot the feedback was super strong, all was well and good till I turned it off to make dinner. Later in the evening, back for session 3, it was back to disappointing....

Then I stumbled on this thread and now it all makes sense. I set it to G923 compatibility and there we go, that's the feedback I was looking for. I've been binge reading this thread, and even signed up for an account just to join this convo.. What a joke for PD to limit it like this... This thing wasn't cheap G-D-it. Still a massive improvement from my G923, but what a bummer.

On a side note, come on Logitech, there is extra USB's... Make some kinda of true force rumble pack like buttkicker, that bolts onto my chair.
 
I can not even begin to explain just how helpful this thread was for my sanity today.... I got the wheel TODAY and played for hours just being genuinely disappointed in the feedback strength, then randomly after a reboot the feedback was super strong, all was well and good till I turned it off to make dinner. Later in the evening, back for session 3, it was back to disappointing....

Then I stumbled on this thread and now it all makes sense. I set it to G923 compatibility and there we go, that's the feedback I was looking for. I've been binge reading this thread, and even signed up for an account just to join this convo.. What a joke for PD to limit it like this... This thing wasn't cheap G-D-it. Still a massive improvement from my G923, but what a bummer.

On a side note, come on Logitech, there is extra USB's... Make some kinda of true force rumble pack like buttkicker, that bolts onto my chair.
In which game did you have this problem, PS5 or PC?
 
I see many of these accounts of weak feedback but I don’t have that experience myself. I’m on PS5 and play GT7.
Yesterday I was doing the Bugatti VGT TT. Got consistent 7-8Nm at the heaviest parts. A couple of hours of that and my arms are quite sore today 😊.

I do however have some issues with some changes to the wheel base settings having no effect. Most of the times it’s enough to shut of and restart the base to make changes take effect.

But if I want to change the strenght of the wheel from high to low the only thing that seems to work is lowering the in game ffb.

Lowering the wheel base‘s TF and FFB from say 11 to 4 does nothing..

Also, whats the difference really between TF and FFB in the wheel base settings? Can’t really figure it out by tinkering..

And, would perhaps a fw update fix these issues?
 
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Hi everyone, I have owned this wheel, Xbox version for a year, I have little time to play due to work, in recent days I purchased DAKAR DESERT RALLY, I have a problem with the ffb settings, I haven't found a guide on the internet to set up and optimize this game as best as possible, not even on the logitech website in the Game Settings for Pro Wheels. If any user has played it, they can publish their settings. I would be very grateful, thank you
 
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some changes to the wheel base settings having no effect.
An update of the firmware may well help. The original firmware had (sort of) duplicate functions for some of the TF/FFB settings which, depending on the game, wouldn't have an effect when you adjusted them.


Sorry @w4lt3rs I haven't got DDRally, looks quite interesting though. @LOGI_Rich seems to have overlooked this game. 😉
I'm not sure if this will help, but have you tried the G923 compatibility mode?
 
An update of the firmware may well help. The original firmware had (sort of) duplicate functions for some of the TF/FFB settings which, depending on the game, wouldn't have an effect when you adjusted them.


Sorry @w4lt3rs I haven't got DDRally, looks quite interesting though. @LOGI_Rich seems to have overlooked this game. 😉
I'm not sure if this will help, but have you tried the G923 compatibility mode?
HI
Thank you for your reply.
I use the steering wheel with the PC. The game recognizes it immediately, there is no need to change the compatibility in G23. I would just like to adjust the various force feedback settings optimally. I'm not very expert. For this reason, I was looking for some player who had better settings than the game's default ones.
 
An update of the firmware may well help. The original firmware had (sort of) duplicate functions for some of the TF/FFB settings which, depending on the game, wouldn't have an effect when you adjusted them.


Sorry @w4lt3rs I haven't got DDRally, looks quite interesting though. @LOGI_Rich seems to have overlooked this game. 😉
I'm not sure if this will help, but have you tried the G923 compatibility mode?
Thanks.

Can this update only be done on a pc?
 
Can this update only be done on a pc?
Yes only via G Hub on PC. Unfortunately Sony (and Microsoft) don't allow hardware updates via their consoles. Other than their own accessories of course.

It's quite a straightforward process once you have G Hub installed, just a matter of connecting the wheel really and the software will look for updates.
 
Yes only via G Hub on PC. Unfortunately Sony (and Microsoft) don't allow hardware updates via their consoles. Other than their own accessories of course.

It's quite a straightforward process once you have G Hub installed, just a matter of connecting the wheel really and the software will look for updates.
Ok, thanks.

Never did I think that there would be a day where I wish a owned a PC 😑
 
The problem here is no matter what, when you start ACC on PS5 it setup the base to 900 and you need to manually setup it to whatever you want, which I don't think is normal.

I know it's working fine on Fanatec. Have friends with it and we already test it.✌️
On the console version of ACC you have to look up the car's steering range somewhere, e.g. in the list linked to by @Abarth_71, and set it up in-game yourself. IIRC you can save the setup for each car so you don't have to change it every time you change cars. I'm sure it's the same with Fanatec bases, as evident from @Abarth_71's post.

It's too bad 505 Games haven't fixed this issue already.
 
On the console version of ACC you have to look up the car's steering range somewhere, e.g. in the list linked to by @Abarth_71, and set it up in-game yourself. IIRC you can save the setup for each car so you don't have to change it every time you change cars. I'm sure it's the same with Fanatec bases, as evident from @Abarth_71's post.

It's too bad 505 Games haven't fixed this issue already.

It's not like this.

In game 800 for the Porsche and 900 in the base is wrong

In game 800 and in base 800 with the same car is also wrong.

The only way to have a proper alignment between both wheels is to have ingame 800 and base 1080.

It's very inconvenient to setup ever time you start the game but atleast it's working in some strange way....

Back in the days of release of 1.8 for consoles September 2022. It was said the soft lock is working and probably it is, but not for Logitech G Pro. I didn't have that problem with my old g29.

Something similar is happening with Fanatec but atleast the game does not change the base settings after the start.

The problems is not the wheel but the game, specifically on console coz I don't have any problems with any other SIM I play.
 
Anybody running the G Pro on a Project Cars 2? I’m having troubles dialling it in. It feels like the car is just sort of gliding around the track. Now, I think I can get used of that but down the straights the wheel jiggles. If I let go, it doesn’t get any worse. So it’s not oscillating I don’t think. And it happens in the ford escort, thing only does like 100mph. Lol.

I have the FFB filter turned up to 15 and dampener turned up to 75 or 100. Doesn’t matter. Still does it. There’s gotta be a way to get rid of the ghost jiggling my wheel?

IF I turn left or right every so slightly to put a bit of tension it doesn’t do it but then I’m slowly creeping to the opposite side of the track.

Just realized I asked about this last March. Maybe somebody just has some recommended wheel settings and in game settings I can use and be done with it. Mostly just fired it up because GT7 crapped the bed today. Spent too much time trying to get it to feel right.
 
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is there consensus on what is the best wheel base and in play setting for gran turismo 7 and F1 23 on PlayStation 5 for this wheel? the logitech G pro wheel either feel too heavy or light to me.
 
Anybody running the G Pro on a Project Cars 2? I’m having troubles dialling it in. It feels like the car is just sort of gliding around the track. Now, I think I can get used of that but down the straights the wheel jiggles. If I let go, it doesn’t get any worse. So it’s not oscillating I don’t think. And it happens in the ford escort, thing only does like 100mph. Lol.

I have the FFB filter turned up to 15 and dampener turned up to 75 or 100. Doesn’t matter. Still does it. There’s gotta be a way to get rid of the ghost jiggling my wheel?

IF I turn left or right every so slightly to put a bit of tension it doesn’t do it but then I’m slowly creeping to the opposite side of the track.

Just realized I asked about this last March. Maybe somebody just has some recommended wheel settings and in game settings I can use and be done with it. Mostly just fired it up because GT7 crapped the bed today. Spent too much time trying to get it to feel right.
I tried Project cars 2 but the handling just felt off compared to Assetto Corsa. So i don't know/think wheel settings can fix the handling if you don't like how it feels.
 
is there consensus on what is the best wheel base and in play setting for gran turismo 7 and F1 23 on PlayStation 5 for this wheel? the logitech G pro wheel either feel too heavy or light to me.
I usually follow Logi_rich recommendations , but depending on the cars, I lower the force feedback to 9nm, as I feel some of them too heavy and not quite realistic.
Strength:9-11nm

In game :
Max Torque 10
Sensitivity: 1
 
I tried Project cars 2 but the handling just felt off compared to Assetto Corsa. So i don't know/think wheel settings can fix the handling if you don't like how it feels.
I got SimHub working and set the wheel until it felt useable. Not too bad. But down the straights the wheel jiggles so much it hurts my wrists. Unless I can figure out how to shut off the wheel jiggling or just turn left slowly then right I won’t be able to play it. Which is too bad I found in game settings and on tv it look pretty good now. The feel isn’t too bad. It’s the ghost turning my wheel an inch this way than that down the straights.
 
Anybody running the G Pro on a Project Cars 2? I’m having troubles dialling it in.
I'm a big fan of PC2 and play it quite a lot. I've found the trouble is that being an older title it doesn't know about the G Pro. It recognises it as a G29 and outputs data suitable for that wheel. This includes a lot of centering information - which I believe causes the "jiggles" you mention.
In fact, depending on the car, I can sit there completely stationary with the wheel wildly oscillating left and right!

I can eliminate it by reducing the torque (or gain) right down and adding plenty of dampening on the wheel, but then it numbs the on track feel too much. So I compromise with extra feel and hold on to the wheel!

The settings I use.
Game. Gain - 75, Volume - 35*, Tone - 40 to 60 **, FX - 0
Wheel. Torque - 10, FFB filter - 12 , Dampener - 50,

Setting the gain to around 50 will just about stop the jiggle.
(* increase for a heavier wheel)
(** depending on car type)

Also in PC2 the weather and date setting has a huge impact on how the cars behave. For an initial impression set it to a dry summer's afternoon and it'll feel much better.

PC3 doesn't jiggle, in fact it uses Trueforce.
 
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I'm a big fan of PC2 and play it quite a lot. I've found the trouble is that being an older title it doesn't know about the G Pro. It recognises it as a G29 and outputs data suitable for that wheel. This includes a lot of centering information - which I believe causes the "jiggles" you mention.
In fact, depending on the car, I can sit there completely stationary with the wheel wildly oscillating left and right!

I can eliminate it by reducing the torque (or gain) right down and adding plenty of dampening on the wheel, but then it numbs the on track feel too much. So I compromise with extra feel and hold on to the wheel!

The settings I use.
Game. Gain - 75, Volume - 35*, Tone - 40 to 60 **, FX - 0
Wheel. Torque - 10, FFB filter - 12 , Dampener - 50,

Setting the gain to around 50 will just about stop the jiggle.
(* increase for a heavier wheel)
(** depending on car type)

Also in PC2 the weather and date setting has a huge impact on how the cars behave. For an initial impression set it to a dry summer's afternoon and it'll feel much better.

PC3 doesn't jiggle, in fact it uses Trueforce.
Thanks I’ll try your settings out. Yeah it’s too bad there wasn’t a feature in the wheel to dampen just that center jiggling. I know the game isn’t supported, I can’t get the dlc for it anymore as far as I know which is too bad, they didn’t just unlock it for everyone.

GT7 looks way better, I’m not convinced PC2 feels any better but that center jiggle is frustrating and takes away from the experience. I find Pc2 the cars feel like they glide and slide a lot. But I can get used of that.
 
In which game did you have this problem, PS5 or PC?
PS5
I see many of these accounts of weak feedback but I don’t have that experience myself. I’m on PS5 and play GT7.
Yesterday I was doing the Bugatti VGT TT. Got consistent 7-8Nm at the heaviest parts. A couple of hours of that and my arms are quite sore today 😊.
Have you tried it on G923 compatibility mode? If not, set it to that and then you’ll know what I’m talking about, I swear it gets 3x stronger.
 
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It's not like this.

In game 800 for the Porsche and 900 in the base is wrong

In game 800 and in base 800 with the same car is also wrong.

The only way to have a proper alignment between both wheels is to have ingame 800 and base 1080.

It's very inconvenient to setup ever time you start the game but atleast it's working in some strange way....

Back in the days of release of 1.8 for consoles September 2022. It was said the soft lock is working and probably it is, but not for Logitech G Pro. I didn't have that problem with my old g29.

Something similar is happening with Fanatec but atleast the game does not change the base settings after the start.

The problems is not the wheel but the game, specifically on console coz I don't have any problems with any other SIM I play.
That does indeed sound strange. When I tried the console version just after release I "just" had to set up the steering range in-game for each car (using a Thrustmaster base.)
 
Yes, but then it oscillates a huge amount when you’re going down straights - it’s seriously not recommended. Polyphony tunes the game for each wheel and 11Nm applied to the force curve they use for the G923 creates a seriously sub-optimal experience.
100%, but I also upgraded from a G923 and spent almost $1500 on this to get the 11nm that I paid for. If I would have stumbled on this thread before buying, I would not have dropped that kind of money until the training wheels were removed.

I don’t even really play any other games. GT7 with VR2 is the only reason I even got the PS5. Been driving sports cars for years and this fills that hole in my heart now that I am so busy with work and kids. The only reason I didn’t go for the 20nm Fanatech was the TrueForce.

This is no knock on Logitech and I went all in with the platform. But what PD did by throttling these down is absolutely ridiculous.
 

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100%, but I also upgraded from a G923 and spent almost $1500 on this to get the 11nm that I paid for. If I would have stumbled on this thread before buying, I would not have dropped that kind of money until the training wheels were removed.

I don’t even really play any other games. GT7 with VR2 is the only reason I even got the PS5. Been driving sports cars for years and this fills that hole in my heart now that I am so busy with work and kids. The only reason I didn’t go for the 20nm Fanatech was the TrueForce.

This is no knock on Logitech and I went all in with the platform. But what PD did by throttling these down is absolutely ridiculous.
I agree they shouldn’t limit the wheel. However, I’m at Torque 8, Sensitivity 10, Vibration 40. Wheel settings are 11nm, ffb filter at like 1-2, dampener around 3-5. A car with racing tires I have to turn the wheel down or it feels like I’m wrestling my wheel.

I think the problem comes in how GT7 comfort tires give a light wheel feeling, sports a little heavier and then racing heaviest. I’m not convinced the difference in steering would be as drastic as it currently is. I’d like them to fix that but knowing them, they’ll take it the other way too far. They need to close the gap between the feel of different tires a little bit. Not much but some.
 
I usually follow Logi_rich recommendations , but depending on the cars, I lower the force feedback to 9nm, as I feel some of them too heavy and not quite realistic.
Strength:9-11nm

In game :
Max Torque 10
Sensitivity: 1
thanks. which post number did you followed posted by Logi rich
 
100%, but I also upgraded from a G923 and spent almost $1500 on this to get the 11nm that I paid for. If I would have stumbled on this thread before buying, I would not have dropped that kind of money until the training wheels were removed.

I don’t even really play any other games. GT7 with VR2 is the only reason I even got the PS5. Been driving sports cars for years and this fills that hole in my heart now that I am so busy with work and kids. The only reason I didn’t go for the 20nm Fanatech was the TrueForce.

This is no knock on Logitech and I went all in with the platform. But what PD did by throttling these down is absolutely ridiculous.

I also came from g29.

Base
Pro mode
Strength - 11nm
Damper - 30
FFB filter - 10
TF Audio - 50 ( personal choice)

Ingame
FFB strength - 6 or more if you need
Sensitivity - 1
TF settings - 35

Feels perfect to me in GT. I use these base settings also on a lot of other Sims. I don't like to change profiles.

You may give the settings a go, don't judge them at the first place but "set it and forget it.

I don't think g923 mode the wheel feels better in GT7 than in G Pro mode. Maybe it's closer to what you are get used to with the old wheel.

Just give you some time roaming around to get used to it, not speaking lap times or competitive racing✌️
 
I also came from g29.

Base
Pro mode
Strength - 11nm
Damper - 30
FFB filter - 10
TF Audio - 50 ( personal choice)

Ingame
FFB strength - 6 or more if you need
Sensitivity - 1
TF settings - 35

Feels perfect to me in GT. I use these base settings also on a lot of other Sims. I don't like to change profiles.

You may give the settings a go, don't judge them at the first place but "set it and forget it.

I don't think g923 mode the wheel feels better in GT7 than in G Pro mode. Maybe it's closer to what you are get used to with the old wheel.

Just give you some time roaming around to get used to it, not speaking lap times or competitive racing✌️
I’m gonna play around with the settings more and more, I’ll try this tonight on pro mode.

Im really considering mounting a butt kicker to my chair as well, on 923 mode it’s strong enough to actually vibrate the rig.
 
I’m gonna play around with the settings more and more, I’ll try this tonight on pro mode.

Im really considering mounting a butt kicker to my chair as well, on 923 mode it’s strong enough to actually vibrate the rig.
I run my g pro as a g pro and it’ll rumble my rig. I also have five Dayton pucks in my seat (in the cushions) another mounted to the frame of the seat and two mounted under my pedal board. It brings the experience to another level. I recently tried project cars 2, didn’t have the feedback going and it just feels bland, figured out how to get simhub going with project cars 2 and it was much better. I’m really tempted to get a VR but I want to try one out first.

I heard the buttkickers are strong vibrations so should be good. I went with the pucks because they were cheap and I had an idea of how I could get them closer to my body than just slapping them on the frame. Not sure theyre actually strong enough for that.
 
I have started fiddling with the brake feel. I went for the longer possible setup of the components provided. It got better a bit, but I need to improve some things.

I would like to have a linear feel and not the 3 steps that occur while doing a deep braking. Is that possible?
Also I would like it to have less force in the beginning and having the maximum braking deeper than it is now, in short more progressive. How is that possible to change?
 
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