Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

@Monkey Man The issue here is that if the the game already sets the rotation to match 1:1 based on the wheel being set to its maximum rotation, then if you manually adjust the Angle of the wheel, it's going to be scaled within that maximum angle, which will mean different things for different cars. To put it another way, if you're setting the angle on the wheel to 360, you're already making the whole thing really sensitive; then, for a car with actual 900 degrees steering, that might not be too bad, but a car with actual 180 degree steering, it's going to be majorly sensitive.

The game will override the angle setting on loading so the easiest way to achieve what you want is to always have the wheel in one of the onboard modes when you start the game and then switch to your profile with 360 degrees set once it's loaded.

@FrankieStail We have a solution coming early next year that will enable the current shifter to work on the Pro Wheel. Everything else is roadmap questions that I can't answer, but it's clear that by having a QR system that we have plans. :)
 
Thank you Rich!

The game will override the angle setting on loading so the easiest way to achieve what you want is to always have the wheel in one of the onboard modes when you start the game and then switch to your profile with 360 degrees set once it's loaded.
Sounds like this might be the solution for me 'cause I use the wheel to navigate the PS5, not a "controller".

Confused 'though:
One of the onboard modes? Sorry you've lost me there Rich.
 
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Thank you Rich!


Sounds like this might be the solution for me 'cause I use the wheel to navigate the PS5, not a "controller".

Confused 'though:
One of the onboard modes? Sorry you've lost me there Rich.
You've got five onboard profiles. Just use one as a "startup" profile for games, then switch to your profile with 360 set once the game has started.
 
I keep getting a fluttering screen on the wheel, it doesn't recognize PC. I ordered the PS5 version. The screen flutters with/without wheel attached.

Edit: I've tried connecting to GHub but the option to choose PC does not show on wheel screen and the Ghub does not recognize the wheel being connected or is connected.
Tried all the USB ports on the PS5 as well.

Edit # 2: Computer and Ghub recognizes wheel but won't initialize.

Edit 3: I've had enough for one night, reaching out to support.
 
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Tried loading GT7 with a different profile and then switching back as suggested Rich.

Unfortunately it cost me an hour of mucking around with the FFB parameters 'cause of erratic high-torque anomalies. DoR kept changing every few minutes too.

Rebooted wheelbase with GT7 still-loaded and instantly back to where I was originally, which is in a great place except for having to manually change DoR on the base often. I can live with this if you guys can't lock it, but I do worry about wearing the encoder out by constantly dialling 900º+ down to 360.
 
I keep getting a fluttering screen on the wheel, it doesn't recognize PC. I ordered the PS5 version. The screen flutters with/without wheel attached.

Edit: I've tried connecting to GHub but the option to choose PC does not show on wheel screen and the Ghub does not recognize the wheel being connected or is connected.
Tried all the USB ports on the PS5 as well.

Edit # 2: Computer and Ghub recognizes wheel but won't initialize.

Edit 3: I've had enough for one night, reaching out to support.
Hi there,
A video of the issue and what you're doing (power button press etc.) would be helpful. One thing I would ask that you check is that the power connector is fully inserted. It can have two "clicks" and if you stop at the first then it won't be fully in - make sure that it's bottomed out in the socket.


@Monkey Man it could be that GT7 is automatically setting the angle per car and that's what's switching the angle for you. Don't worry about the dial though - it's good for a LOT of actuations.
 
Hi there,
A video of the issue and what you're doing (power button press etc.) would be helpful. One thing I would ask that you check is that the power connector is fully inserted. It can have two "clicks" and if you stop at the first then it won't be fully in - make sure that it's bottomed out in the socket.


@Monkey Man it could be that GT7 is automatically setting the angle per car and that's what's switching the angle for you. Don't worry about the dial though - it's good for a LOT of actuations.
Hi Rich,
Thanks for responding.
I went to my real-world race car this morning and removed a few of our GoPros and will hook these up to my rig later today to video everything. I spent a fair amount of time with tech support last night going through everything but will try the power cable again later today.

I was able to run four laps around Spa last night before I lost steering and pedal function and was pretty impressed with whatever the standard settings were, definitely going to see this through and make the switch to the Logitech. Same thing on ACC, much better than the DD Pro which I thought was pretty good in ACC.

Here's what I'm reporting as issues with the wheel

  1. The display window on the wheel does not stop fluttering when you power the wheel up. It continually blinks and flashes a mix of information until I'm actually able to enter a game, however I cannot access any of the wheel settings at any point.
  2. There is no option on the display window to choose PC mode, however if you just rotate the knob one-click past ps4/5 options where the PC mode would normally be displayed, and push the same knob to enter, it will enter PC mode.
  3. No matter what game (GT7 or ACC) I try to play (PS5 mode) the wheel suddenly loses input (steering and pedal function) and the RPM LED locks in place, I have to unplug the wheel to get it to shut off, the power button does not work.
  4. I'm able to connect to the Ghub and the wheel responds as it should with displaying the wheel rotation and pedal function but then suddenly loses connection or input?.
  5. It took several attempts on a brand new computer to get the wheel to initialize on the PC, sometimes it connects and sometimes it takes multiple attempts before it connects.
  6. I've tried all three USB ports on my PS5 only to have it repeat the same issues.
  7. The pedals and wheel are fixed mounted to my rig, I hand tightened then went a couple mm past that point.
I've attached a quick video I did yesterday.
 

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  • GPro Wheel.mov.zip
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Yep, that's definitely not right!

Couple of questions:
  • How long are the M6 bolts that you're securing the wheel with?
  • If you try the USB cable from the Pro Pedals does that make any difference?
 
Yep, that's definitely not right!

Couple of questions:
  • How long are the M6 bolts that you're securing the wheel with?
  • If you try the USB cable from the Pro Pedals does that make any difference?
Very short, 10mm or less I think with lock washer. I was a little nervous about over tightening them so I initially hand tightened them then went a couple mm's past that. I'll post in the video.
Haven't tried switching the cable but can.
 
Very short, 10mm or less I think with lock washer. I was a little nervous about over tightening them so I initially hand tightened them then went a couple mm's past that. I'll post in the video.
Haven't tried switching the cable but can.
Yeah the bolts shouldn't encroach any further than 15mm inside the wheel base, so it sounds like you're good there. Let me know if the cable change makes any difference.
 
Torque has all but disappeared in ACC these past few days. Is there a known issue since this week's update dropped Rich?

Didn't want to bother you so waited a few days but there's no change. Was great last week. Now it feels like TrueForce with only a tiny bit of normal FFB torque thrown in. I'm talking like half a nm or something.
 
Torque has all but disappeared in ACC these past few days. Is there a known issue since this week's update dropped Rich?

Didn't want to bother you so waited a few days but there's no change. Was great last week. Now it feels like TrueForce with only a tiny bit of normal FFB torque thrown in. I'm talking like half a nm or something.
PlayStation or PC? I assume it’s fine in other titles?
 
That's odd. I just checked on PS5 and I'm definitely getting the torque you should do - 11Nm feels appropriately strong, for example and is reflected on the torque meter shown on the OLED if you set the home screen to display the torque. Honestly not sure what to suggest! Are you running in PRO or G923 mode?
 
PlayStation or PC? I assume it’s fine in other titles?
I am experiencig a similar issue in Grid (2019) (XBOX). FFB will completely dissapear if I do the wheel calibration, and occasionally between races or when I change cars. Trueforce vibrations appear to continue working even in the absence of FFB. The only way to get FFB back is to force close the game and restart it.

So far, I have not encountered this issue occur on the Forza series (Motorsport 7 or Horizon 4 & 5) , ACC (except Trueforce howling noise coming from the weelbase is obsurdly loud), or Project Cars 3.
 
Yes, we have a firmware update releasing shortly that will address the issue you mention in GRID - hopefully this week. You’ll need to apply it through G HUB on PC.

With regards to ACC, just turn the TF Audio down - 10 or less is good for ACC. It should never overwhelm the experience.
 
Yes, we have a firmware update releasing shortly that will address the issue you mention in GRID - hopefully this week. You’ll need to apply it through G HUB on PC.

With regards to ACC, just turn the TF Audio down - 10 or less is good for ACC. It should never overwhelm the experience.
Thanks for the update. I had already turned TF down to 20 but I guess that wasnt enough.

Is there any ETA for a Handbrake, Shifter, and additional steering wheel options?
 
Yes, it depends on the title - on iRacing I like it higher, but then you can adjust the mix of what it's sending to the wheel so you can knock the engine note further down in the mix.

I can't talk about roadmap details though, I'm afraid.
 
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Trueforce vibrations appear to continue working even in the absence of FFB. The only way to get FFB back is to force close the game and restart it.
This is exactly what I experienced with ACC on PS5 for 3 days. Restarting the wheelbase, game and console didn't help 'though.

Thankfully the issue resolved itself somehow:

That's odd. I just checked on PS5 and I'm definitely getting the torque you should do - 11Nm feels appropriately strong, for example and is reflected on the torque meter shown on the OLED if you set the home screen to display the torque. Honestly not sure what to suggest! Are you running in PRO or G923 mode?
Pro mode of course Rich.

Fantastic news 'though:
Last night it worked perfectly again, just as it did for the first week. I'm stoked!

Can't help but wonder if it's related to the game update that dropped last wed or thur, although that wouldn't explain how it then fixed itself after 3 days... unless a sneaky little patch was made to the game.

Thank you for responding Rich; much-appreciated mate.

EDIT:
I say 3 days 'cause it was broken thurs, fri and sat nights, after which I took a break 'til last night, so for all I know it may have been 5 days.
 
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@LOGI_Rich the great detailed info in this thread along with the various YouTube reviews made me finally move from my humble G29 (prior to that I had a Momo, Formula Force EX, Wingman etc.) to my first direct drive with the Pro Wheel.

I was a little worried that the weight difference would be too much for my desk but the clamp is doing a great job so far.

The firmware update process was however a little confusing and initially I thought I had bricked it as after the blue progress bar said complete there was still a download icon saying firmware update (that I thought meant there was another one to do) this gave an error message and left the rev lights alternating between red a green even after powering off/unplugging (after a wait a good long while). It turned out that I needed to unplug and then reconnect the USB cable. I am assuming that is the normal process? I ask as you mention another update coming soon.

So far the wheel is working well in every game even old ones not on the list. The only thing that seems broken is WRC generations but it may an issue since the last patch - the in car wheel only turn about 80 degrees no matter the settings in game or in G-HUB.
 
@Haileyn the firmware update is now available with the new release of G HUB that went live today.

@TegMattW the wheel’s firmware is designed to recover from unplugs/power loss during the update process, so you’re good to do that. The new firmware was released today so you may already have it - main 94/drive 52 is the latest update.

For WRCG try altering the operating range on the settings screen on the wheel. I haven’t checked that title out for a few weeks but it was certainly possible to adjust the angle previously.
 
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@Haileyn the firmware update is now available with the new release of G HUB that went live today.
Sorry if I missed an announcement somewhere - is there any info available on this new firmware update? If I only play GT7 on a PS5, do I need the update? Thanks.
 
Got to the bottom of the anomalous behaviour I experienced for 3 days Rich, but don't know how to "fix" it:

In both GT7 and ACC (haven't tested anything else), if I go to my default 5nm setting and "edit" it, say, incrementing / decrementing it to 5.1 or 4.9 and then back again and backing out, the symptoms reappear:

Practically-no FFB, only TrueForce.

Rebooting the games fixes it, so I'm OK as long as I don't touch the FFB nm value.

Surely someone else must've reported this by now? It's 100%-repeatable.
 
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No, that's not something we've had reported elsewhere and we can't replicate it here either. Definitely update to the new firmware from G HUB to see if it makes any difference though.
 
Thank you Rich.

As you know, I don't have access to a PC or an Apple Silicon machine (my Macs are 2011 and 2012).

Bummer.
 
@Haileyn the firmware update is now available with the new release of G HUB that went live today.
Confirmed. The latest firmware has eliminated the FFB loss in Grid (2019).

There are some additional XBOX issues have noticed:

(Pro Mode) Almost no game recognizes the rotary switches and LEDs. (Tested: Forza 5/6/7, Horizon 4/5, Grid, Grid Legends, Asetto Corsa, ACC, Project Cars 3)

ACC appears to be the only game that recognized the rotary switches. However, the Left Dial (Turn) maps as Plus and Minus, Left Dial (Push) maps as Dial 2 Push, Right Dial (Turn) maps as Dial 2 CW and CCW, Right Dial (Push) is not recognized.

Grid Legends (Pro Mode) either does not recognize the wheel at all, or as a Microsoft Steering Wheel with all button mapping blank, (G923 Mode) was recognized as a G923 with default button mapping.

Project Cars 3 (Pro Mode) wheel is recognized as a Thrustmaster Steering Wheel but has basic functionality and FFB.


I also tested playform cross-compatibility:

[Xbox wheel on PS base] - Has complete compatibility with Xbox/PS5/PS4/PC (all options available in he Platform Selection menu). However, the problems listed above are occuring regardless of the wheel base used.

[PS wheel on Xbox base] - PC connection only.

I have only tested GT7 on the Playstation base and havent done any PC testing yet.
 
@LOGI_Rich

Replacements came in today and this wheel and pedal set are pretty solid. The tech support personal helped me through the whole process and I'm impressed with the ease of replacement once I got through the differences between ordering direct and ordering reseller. Thanks for all your help!
 
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