Logitech G Pro Racing Wheel

@vsfit glad you’re up and running again!

@Haileyn Yes this is the reality of the standard Xbox wheel specification that all wheels have to adhere to for Xbox; It doesn’t support extra controls or RPM LEDs.

Those extra features are enabled via our Trueforce SDK, so if a game supports Trueforce then it can support them. It’s still developer choice though - ACC supports everything, whereas GRID/Dirt Rally 2.0 just supports Trueforce and the LEDs, mainly because they don’t see any need to use any more buttons.

The mappings you see in ACC are based on the G923, which is why you see the plus/minus. As we proceed into the future with more titles knowing about the Pro Wheel you should see that start to change.

GRID Legends and PC3 are just standard wheel support titles that weren’t able to integrate Trueforce support at the time for a variety of reasons.
 
Does someone has good setting fors gran turismo sport? Ive only found settings for GT7.

I tried some myself and its already not bad, but i know it could be way better
 
Monkey Man
Got to the bottom of the anomalous behaviour I experienced for 3 days Rich, but don't know how to "fix" it:

In both GT7 and ACC (haven't tested anything else), if I go to my default 5nm setting and "edit" it, say, incrementing / decrementing it to 5.1 or 4.9 and then back again and backing out, the symptoms reappear:

Practically-no FFB, only TrueForce.

Rebooting the games fixes it, so I'm OK as long as I don't touch the FFB nm value.

Surely someone else must've reported this by now? It's 100%-repeatable.
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Turns out Womble Leader's experienced the same thing. In his case it was TF Audio level.

He too found that if he incremented / decremented his setting and backed out, the "true" value was attained, otherwise it was 100%, which he didn't want in ACC.

So, same symptom and solution, different parameter. In my case it was full-torque as opposed to full TF Audio, although I didn't check the latter; I keep mine at full anyway.

Just updating you 'cause you said you're not aware of reports and couldn't replicate the problem. Still can't update FW unfortunately 'til I get a new Mac next year some time.
 
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Hi all. I had ordered the wheel and pedals back on the 9th of December. I enquired about possible delays. I live in New Zealand. Woke up this morning to emails advising refunds and that my order was cancelled.( never asked for this). Reached out to support and waiting for a reply. I have been back on line and see stock is available and ready to ship. I'm baffled as getting dd wheels for ps5 is a real mission.
 
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Is it possible to use the G29 pedals with the G Pro wheelbase?
I'm thinking about getting this wheel but I can't really afford getting the pedals too at the moment and my G29 pedals have some mods that work fine for me right now.
 
Just thought I'd chip in that having used my G25 since March '08 (bought for GT5 Prologue), the G pro wheel is on its way to me after my girlfriend got me the pedals for Christmas. No info on a release for the playseat tie in, so I've picked up a playseat trophy black.

Appreciate you likely still can't say anything, but just in case, @LOGI_Rich, just curious if there's any more news on an H pattern shifter being released? I've used my TH8A for years and it'd be perfect if only the PS5 would work with it, if Logitech produce something similar that plugs into the G Pro wheelbase that'll be fantastic. My fingers are crossed :)

Looking forward to trying the wheel on AC on PC too as that's probably where most of my sim racing hours have gone.
 
Haverstaken
Great. I'll wait until it becomes available here then. Thanks.
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I’ve been trying to decide whether to get the G Pro or not and it pretty much boils down to the pedal cost. If the entire setup wheel and pedals was $1000 I would have purchased one already.

I don’t mind my G923 but a few weeks in from brand new I’ve had to modify it to stop that damn notorious Logitech rattling sound. So far it’s been good now and it only tries to rattle when driving a car into the pits on racing tires in GT7. Slow turns and take offs seem to trigger the dreaded rattle but my mod has muted that big time. Also why I’m somewhat hesitant to go Logitech again.

Funny thing is, family and friends have given me their old logitech wheels mostly because support for them on consoles was dropped entirely. I’ve got a G25? G27, G29, G923, two Logitech Momo’s from PS3 days When my brother and I used to race lots. I probably wouldn’t have even purchased a G923 if my old Momo still worked. The G29 paddle shift started goofing up, couldn’t find a micro switch for it.
 
I tried WRC generations again today and found that if you disable the Logitech API it works quite well using G-Hub settings but, the on screen steering wheel graphic hardly moves (in game the angle is stuck at 80 and greyed out) so you really have to turn the in car steering wheel graphics off or it is really confusing. Hopefully they will support the Pro wheel properly at some point.

@LOGI_Rich I know from the size of the power supply the draw in use will be a lot more than my previous G92 even though I’m not at full torque with me using it on a desk but do you know what the power consumption is when off (i.e when the computer is off and the fan has stopped)? - currently I’m crawling under the desk and unplugging it later (after fan stops) but if it is just milliamps it might not be worth it.
 
Good day,
Apologies if this has been discussed in the forum, I have glanced through several pages, but...
What Brake Force settings are you using? I was at 50 for a while, but have dropped it to 40/45 recently. Is there a setting where I can rest my foot on the pedal without activating the brakes? I am using the stock elastomers. TIA.
 
hawkeyez
I’ve been trying to decide whether to get the G Pro or not and it pretty much boils down to the pedal cost. If the entire setup wheel and pedals was $1000 I would have purchased one already.

I don’t mind my G923 but a few weeks in from brand new I’ve had to modify it to stop that damn notorious Logitech rattling sound. So far it’s been good now and it only tries to rattle when driving a car into the pits on racing tires in GT7. Slow turns and take offs seem to trigger the dreaded rattle but my mod has muted that big time. Also why I’m somewhat hesitant to go Logitech again.

Funny thing is, family and friends have given me their old logitech wheels mostly because support for them on consoles was dropped entirely. I’ve got a G25? G27, G29, G923, two Logitech Momo’s from PS3 days When my brother and I used to race lots. I probably wouldn’t have even purchased a G923 if my old Momo still worked. The G29 paddle shift started goofing up, couldn’t find a micro switch for it.
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I'm definitely buying one now. Just waiting for the release of this pedal adapter. I think it is a good purchase, the reviews have been really positive. But I guess in Canada you have more options as well. Here we are pretty much stuck with Logitech and Thrustmaster if you want console compatibility.
I have my G29 for years now (had a Driving Force GT before) and the only problem I had was with the pedals flickering after some time. After a while, I got fed up with the process of cleaning the potentiometers, so I ended up getting this mod for them. Since then, they are working pretty well and have a much better feel too. And yes, the rattling sound of the G29 is very annoying and one of the reasons I want a DD wheel now 😆
 
Haverstaken
I'm definitely buying one now. Just waiting for the release of this pedal adapter. I think it is a good purchase, the reviews have been really positive. But I guess in Canada you have more options as well. Here we are pretty much stuck with Logitech and Thrustmaster if you want console compatibility.
I have my G29 for years now (had a Driving Force GT before) and the only problem I had was with the pedals flickering after some time. After a while, I got fed up with the process of cleaning the potentiometers, so I ended up getting this mod for them. Since then, they are working pretty well and have a much better feel too. And yes, the rattling sound of the G29 is very annoying and one of the reasons I want a DD wheel now 😆
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i took my wheel apart and put a small O-Ring behind each helix gear. It’s a design flaw. The motor shaft has some play in it (poor spec/quality control on build? Idk) anyway the rattling you hear is the motor shaft moving then the helix gear taps the bearing housing. Putting a small o ring behind each gear takes up the play and acts like a little rubber bumper. I used silicone grease and regreased everything while I was in there. Way quieter.

It was so loud I was afraid to take a turn at any kind of speed. It was slowing me down, braking or turning and hearing that racket.

I have my FFB torque settings to 2 or 3 and my sensitivity to 8, I may drop that some yet. You have to kind of roll the o ring over and behind the gear. One o ring took up almost all the slack but the shaft could still move some which I wanted. But I’m starting to think the nitrile o ring gets a bit compressed or pounded out some, I may pull it apart again and see if I can put a smaller o ring on the front of the gear, before it was too tight in my opinion but if that back o ring has squashed some then it may be fine to do now. I might even try to slice the proper size o ring in half like a bagel and put that in front of the gears.

Anyway it’s worth a try until they release this adapter. If the adapter doesn’t come to fruition I will not be buying a Logitech G Pro. Even at $1000 plus an adapter I’m hesitant. Like is this wheel going to work on PS6? PS7? PS8? We just don’t know with Logitech.

Anyway I’m confident that o ring fix will take away most of your annoying rattle. Use silicone grease it’s plastic safe as far as I know. Good luck.
 
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"Like is this wheel going to work on PS6? PS7? PS8? We just don’t know with Logitech."

To be very fair, that's entirely at the behest of the platform holder, rather than us :) Both of them were open to not changing things with regards to their respective authentication chips between Gen 8 and 9, which we were actually very happy about.
 
LOGI_Rich
"Like is this wheel going to work on PS6? PS7? PS8? We just don’t know with Logitech."

To be very fair, that's entirely at the behest of the platform holder, rather than us :) Both of them were open to not changing things with regards to their respective authentication chips between Gen 8 and 9, which we were actually very happy about.
Click to expand...
Ah so if it was Sony’s doing then maybe manufacturers need to call them out on that. Not sure how it works but I would have been fine buying a little box that I plug my Momo into and it says yes, sony will now allow you to use this wheel. “You’ve passed the authentication test”
 
Can someone please Tell me good gt sport settings... its horrible as i cant find any good settings. And nowhere in internet to be found.

On the gt dd pro, gt sport was my favourite game, ffb wise
 
Unfortunately, GT Sport just doesn't contain any tuning for the Pro Wheel. It works, because that's the nature of our SDK - it supports all Logitech wheels - but all of Polyphony's tunings for our wheels in that game are based on the G29/G923, which obviously don't have the level of strength and fidelity that the Pro has. The result is an overly strong centering force with consequent hard oscillations around the centre that just can't be tuned out - this is exactly why we don't provide settings for GT Sport. Obviously Polyphony's focus is no longer on Sport, so they're unlikely to go back and add the specific tunings for the Pro Wheel that are present in GT7.
 
LOGI_Rich
Unfortunately, GT Sport just doesn't contain any tuning for the Pro Wheel. It works, because that's the nature of our SDK - it supports all Logitech wheels - but all of Polyphony's tunings for our wheels in that game are based on the G29/G923, which obviously don't have the level of strength and fidelity that the Pro has. The result is an overly strong centering force with consequent hard oscillations around the centre that just can't be tuned out - this is exactly why we don't provide settings for GT Sport. Obviously Polyphony's focus is no longer on Sport, so they're unlikely to go back and add the specific tunings for the Pro Wheel that are present in GT7.
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Can you provide any insight on the sort of tuning that PD have done or perhaps 'could do' for the G Pro wheel? Just out of interest to understand how they integrate wheels or what sort of data GT7 passes to the wheel really, purely being a nosey software bloke :)
 
They don't give us that much insight, but it'll probably be adjusting the ramp/shape of the force curve that's sent to the wheel. Certainly if you try both Sport and 7 you'll immediately feel a difference, with everything in 7 feeling much more natural.
 
For me in Assetto Corsa & F1 22 no force feedback but with ACC, Dirt rally 2.0, Automobilista 2 & GT7 work like a child charm . Could this be the latest firmware update that it did when I initially plugged it into the PC couple of days ago when it first arrived? If somebody who you had the previous firmware could confirm please so I can report it as a known issue?
 
It’s not a known issue. I tested F1 22 myself with the new firmware before we released it and it was fine. I assume you’re doing the usual? Fully quitting the titles, restarting the PS5 and using just the wheel (no DualSense at all)?
 
LOGI_Rich
It’s not a known issue. I tested F1 22 myself with the new firmware before we released it and it was fine. I assume you’re doing the usual? Fully quitting the titles, restarting the PS5 and using just the wheel (no DualSense at all)?
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@LOGI_Rich Sorry should said F1 22 & AC on PC, no Xbox controllers, quitting title even though on PS/PC Pro wheel base.
Other question, if Logi release separete Xbox wheel do u think the PC titles like NFS Unbound that work on Xbox/PC base will work on PS/PC base?
 
I'd love to see the FW update notes for all versions since the initial one.

Any chance someone could paste them here? Can't run G Hub on my old Mac and am super-curious.
 
@Monkey Man It's fairly short. The day 1 FW update simplified the OLED menu (combining legacy and TF settings into one) as well as including initial support for the adapter that's coming soon. The one just before Christmas solved a few issues that were occurring with Trueforce titles, especially on Xbox.

@optical10 You'll note that the two titles you have trouble with don't support Trueforce, so it indicates that you've got problems with the legacy (DirectInput) FFB dlls. There's been a few people having trouble with this (often due to lots of switching back and forth between LGS and G HUB) and we're looking to include a new method of uninstalling/installing these in one of the next versions of G HUB. For now you can try the following to see if it helps:

1. Click Start, type CMD into the search bar and when the Command Prompt option comes up right click on it and choose Run As Administrator.
2. For the next steps make sure you include everything within the quote marks (but not the quote marks) Type "cd C:\ProgramData\LGHUB\depots\157234\di_ffb" and press return
3. Type "di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p ." and press return
4. Hopefully after a few seconds your wheel should recalibrate itself - either way, try in AC and F1 and see if FFB is now working.
 
LOGI_Rich
@optical10 You'll note that the two titles you have trouble with don't support Trueforce, so it indicates that you've got problems with the legacy (DirectInput) FFB dlls. There's been a few people having trouble with this (often due to lots of switching back and forth between LGS and G HUB) and we're looking to include a new method of uninstalling/installing these in one of the next versions of G HUB. For now you can try the following to see if it helps:

1. Click Start, type CMD into the search bar and when the Command Prompt option comes up right click on it and choose Run As Administrator.
2. For the next steps make sure you include everything within the quote marks (but not the quote marks) Type "cd C:\ProgramData\LGHUB\depots\157234\di_ffb" and press return
3. Type "di_ffb_manager.exe -i -p ." and press return
4. Hopefully after a few seconds your wheel should recalibrate itself - either way, try in AC and F1 and see if FFB is now working.
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@LOGI_Rich OK thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately the command prompt solution didn't solve the problem even though I did see the recalibration. I'll just wait until the next version of G hub I've got plenty of other titles to go out..... Would be grateful if you could mention to the team to test on a PC AC especially, that's my daily driver :}
 
Hmmm in that case this may be something different. If it recalibrated then the FFB drivers are installed correctly. There’s no “game-specificness” to this setup so if it works in one game then it’ll work in another (and yes, AC is absolutely part of our test suite, as indeed are most major titles).

You may need to give a better description of what’s going on. Here’s what should happen:

The wheel should have a centring spring force on it on your desktop and when you load into AC’s menu. Once you choose your car and track and then load that so that you get to the screen where you can adjust tuning or start the race the wheel should go loose. Once you’re actually in the car then you’ll get force feedback based on what the car is doing.

How does your experience differ from this? Maybe take it step by step.
 
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LOGI_Rich
Hmmm in that case this may be something different. If it recalibrated then the FFB drivers are installed correctly. There’s no “game-specificness” to this setup so if it works in one game then it’ll work in another (and yes, AC is absolutely part of our test suite, as indeed are most major titles).

You may need to give a better description of what’s going on. Here’s what should happen:

The wheel should have a centring spring force on it on your desktop and when you load into AC’s menu. Once you choose your car and track and then load that so that you get to the screen where you can adjust tuning or start the race the wheel should go loose. Once you’re actually in the car then you’ll get force feedback based on what the car is doing.

How does your experience differ from this? Maybe take it step by step.
Click to expand...
OKAY working through your method on AC I've taken a screen grab so that I can understand at which point the wheel should lose centre spring force which it actually doesn't At the screen below which is I presume the screen you mean where you can adjust tuning I'll start the race?

1673104281937.png


Does it matter that I'm using Control Manager to load AC Because with CM you never see this setting page that's on the official logitech game setting website?

game-settings.png


But you do get this equivalent Anyway

1673104399725.png


Once you get past the setup in car screen the centre spring gets even weaker than desktop / game preloading mode with no collision detected on curbs or the wall in-game etc
 

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