opelgt1969
Premium
- 2,190
- Bristol,Va USA
- opelgt1969
Hard mount for sure Also remember that the G29 has a switch on the wheel to change from PS3 or PS4 (small hard to notice)
Logitech G29 / G920 Driving Force Racing Wheel
- Thread starter drivatar
- 1,154 comments
- 214,825 views
- 642
- Kissimmee, Florida
- wedjim
Using a wheel for your first time ever will be a slightly strange experience. Don't be surprised if you're actually a bit slower than you are with the controller to begin with and you will more than likely make mistakes too. If you're struggling, try not to get frustrated, just take it steady and eventually you'll get the hang of it. 👍
When I first got my wheel I was playing GT5 and it took me about a week to get comparable lap times and from then onwards there was no stopping me.
A friend of mine actually stopped using his wheel because he couldn't get the hang of using it. He got frustrated and gave up...... I eventually got him to try it again and after some coaching he started to enjoy it.
Have fun and I'm sure that you'll enjoy your Christmas present. I don't have AC, but I have heard many people saying that it 'feels' superior to other racing games.
I'm glad to read your post. I've been struggling wildly with my G29 and going WAY slower with it then with my DS3. I can drive it ok if I don't push too hard, but if I let the car get anything more then a few degrees of pitch, it spins and no amount of wheel cranking will help save it. I tried some drift trials to force myself to learn it, but after a 1/2 hour of donuts and lots of grass, gave up.
I can drive it slower and easier and not spin, but my lap times are way slower then.
I'm going to try some setting changes, but not sure which, lol. After that it's a matter of being stubborn and not giving up.
- 2,232
- Lincolnshire
- PleaseD1e
Drifting isn't easy with a wheel. I don't advise anyone with a wheel to start attempting to drift a car until they are very confident with it. I'm not a drifter, I have done very little drifting (other than accidental power oversteer exiting bends) and I don't think that I'd be very good at it either.
Basically, keep it very simple, use a straightforward easy to drive car, master it and then move onto a slightly more challenging car. You'll gradually become quicker, it just takes a little time and patience. 👍 Smoothness of input is everything.
After a while you'll also learn how to quickly correct a little slide, or control oversteer, but it took me a while to figure it out and I'm not sure that I could actually explain how it's done either.
Practice, practice, practice.
Keep it at 900-degrees rotation.
Having the FFB set high may feel great, but it's usually better to set the FFB lower so that you can all of the effects being transferred to you.
Keep at it, you'll get there and once you've got some consistency your lap times will tumble.
I am sorry to hear your struggling with your G29 wedjim, I push the car to its very limit going into the corners and left foot braking helps to control the car and pitch as well, don't forget a good suspension setup helps 👍, try left foot braking right up to the apex and once you just release the brake and then use your acceleration for better lap times.
When you say the car spins you need to have a smooth acceleration comming out of the corners, and if you are too quick with your acceleration comming out of the corners you will be spinning.
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- 7,755
- Yorkshire
- ScapeGoat4U
- WhippingBoy
You're not the only one who can't drift with a wheel. I tried learning for a few months once & gave up as it's so hard. Personally, I think drifters are uber talanted people, & unfortunately I don't have that innate ability in me.
As for controlling a virtual car with a G29, here is my advice. Make sure you are holding the wheel at 9 o'clock & 3 0'clock (not 2 o'clock & 10 o'clock like in a road car). Make sure that your thumbs are in the thumb slots on the wheel. Turn the wheel all the way left until your forearms touch, & then turn the wheel all the way right until your forearms touch again; all the while keeping your thumbs in the slots (but with fingers progressively opening & off the rim as you are turning more). This way you can make ultra fast movements to catch slides, as your hands are on exact opposite sides of the wheel. I'm great at catching slides! I hardly ever turn my wheel anymore than that, & almost never take my hands off, or my thumbs out. Mind you, I always use paddle shifters as well. Try it & see if it helps you. All the best.
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- 5,364
- Ohio
I don't like drifting with a wheel but putting it on the 240 degree rotation setting helps a lot. I usually run 900 degrees.
Fast arm speed is what took me a little while to learn with the wheel.
Fast arm speed is what took me a little while to learn with the wheel.
- 14
- Australia
- nihilus143
Hello everyone.
I. myself, recently bought a G29. It is a nice companion to my Driving force GT. Different, but more crispier turnings abilities and a little trickier to get used to for those 3 pedals as well.
I. myself, recently bought a G29. It is a nice companion to my Driving force GT. Different, but more crispier turnings abilities and a little trickier to get used to for those 3 pedals as well.
- 34
- Manchester
Well, Xmas is nearly here and I'm preparing myself for my G29 setup and all the fun that ensues. Question is, considering I'm a complete noob to the steering wheel gaming world, what would be the best game to ease myself into it and start getting a feel for how things work?
I've got all of the major driving titles, namely Assetto Corsa, Project Cars, F1 2016, Driveclub and Dirt Rally. Which one is the most forgiving for a noob such as myself? Bear in mind I'm more than competent with a controller and have plenty of real world driving experience.
I'm tempted to dive in at the deep end and wrestle a RWD monster round the stages of Wales in Dirt Rally but would that be a mistake? I don't wanna end up getting frustrated....Alas, any advice appreciated.
I've got all of the major driving titles, namely Assetto Corsa, Project Cars, F1 2016, Driveclub and Dirt Rally. Which one is the most forgiving for a noob such as myself? Bear in mind I'm more than competent with a controller and have plenty of real world driving experience.
I'm tempted to dive in at the deep end and wrestle a RWD monster round the stages of Wales in Dirt Rally but would that be a mistake? I don't wanna end up getting frustrated....Alas, any advice appreciated.
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,253
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
I see a lot of new wheel buyers here (welcome to the dark side ). Just some general tips to help ease the transition, as well as expected timeframes for your laptimes to "transfer" over:
Preparation
- Start off with a game you know well, a car you know well and a track you know well. For me it was GT5P Integra at High Speed Ring. Yes, the more basic the better.
- Leave the FFB settings default. Obviously pick a game with good FFB so it's manageable at default settings. I don't advice arcade/simcades. AC and GT are good examples of decent FFB without much tinkering. PCARS is a nightmare on default.
- Seat and arm position is important. Pick a comfortable position where all controls are within easy reach. Make sure you have enough space around you for countersteering maneuvers. Also make sure everything is bolted on tight (or clamped at least). Make sure table is sturdy and doesn't move (you will use more force than you think).
First Lap
- First lap out, try not to use too many aids (at least use as much as you usually do on the pad). It's tempting to make it easy, but it will just slow down your learning process and you have to unlearn bad habits later.
- Take first lap slow and SMOOTH. It's ok not to go 100% full throttle immediately. Just try to get used to the sensations of FFB and grip. Try to explore the controls range (accel/brake/steer). If you have driven in real life, it's useful to try and imagine the g-forces acting on your body. For me it helps finding the limits of grip.
- I can tell you your biggest difficulty will be countersteering. So don't try to drift please. That will come later, I promise.
- Your 2nd and 3rd difficulty will be judging brake pressure & figuring out how much to turn the wheel.
- Brake pressure, unless you have a load cell, will only come from practice. If the game has brake travel indicators use it.
- Steering angle, trust me, if you take a right line you don't need more than 90 degree to either side. Most beginners use wayyy too much rotation. Use as little as possible while still making the corner.
Practice
- Once you've driven 10 or so laps, try a slightly faster car. For me, I used Integra > Evo X > 350Z > Lotus Elise (going from easy FF > 4WD > FR > MR). Use the same track for all these. Drive 10 laps each (or until you can drive without crash/spinout - remember, don't try to drift yet).
- Next try touring cars with downforce. Again go from FF, 4WD, FR, MR.
- Next if you're feeling adventurous try higher end racecars like LMPs and Formulas (I suggest leaving this to the 2nd or 3rd session).
- Rinse and repeat with another more difficult track.
- You can start tinkering with FFB at this point if you feel comfortable. Generally I don't advise super strong FFB. There's nothing macho about it. You just need enough force to feel over/understeer. Anything more is just going to make you slower when countersteering (see below).
- I spent about 1 month on this phase until I can say I'm more comfortable with a wheel than a pad.
Catching Slides
- After a month you can begin countersteering practice. Pick a low power RWD car, fit the crappiest tyres, and pick a track with consecutive esses. For me, I picked the Cappuccino at Suzuka East.
- Don't try to drift intentionally, just drive and when you oversteer try to catch the slide.
- There are 2 things you need to get right: steering angle and rotation speed. Most newbies counter too little and too late.
- For most slides, you need around 90-100 degree counter AND BACK to straight in about half a second, maybe less. Yes, it's a quick and violent maneuver.
- If you don't get it first try, I suggest watching online vids of people countersteering. Not just games, but IRL too. The Yellowbird video at Nurb is a good one. That'll help you get the "feel". I liken it to a tight rubber band connecting your car's rear end to your steering. The more it goes out of line, the more and quicker counter you need. Once it starts correcting, you need to rotate back at the same rate too.
- It took me about 6 months to get comfortable countering (meaning I can comfortable catch 99% of slides in any car without spinning out).
Drifting
- Finally, if you want, you can try drifting. IMO car setup is a lot more important with wheel drifting than controller drifting. Also how you hold the wheel, and how comfortable you are in letting it go when spinning and catching it. I can't recommend tips because this is personal for everyone. Just trial & error and find out what works the most natural for you.
- Personally, I'm not the greatest drifter myself, so someone more qualified can probably teach you more. My advice is to look up online vids. This is the one that helped me massively:
- Just like countersteer, there is a "feel" you need to get. The difference is instead of correcting slides, you want to maintain it. This needs 3 things: steering angle, rotation speed AND throttle position.
- Unfortunately the only advice I can give is practice, practice, practice. Unless you're a pro, but you won't be reading this then.
- Sidenote: unlike circuit driving, you want WEAKER FFB for drift. As weak as it allows with you still feeling the car's over/understeer. This is to help you rotate the wheel faster. In GT6 I use FFB 5 for normal driving, and FFB 1 for drift.
- It took me another 6 months to be a reasonable drifter. But even now I still drift better with a pad than a wheel
Moving On
- In total, it took me about one year to be consistently as quick with a wheel as I was with a pad. That was 7 years ago. Now my best wheel times are around 1.5 seconds faster than my pad times, BUT big difference is I get there within fewer laps and I can be more consistent longer with a wheel. Also I was around 3.5-4 seconds off top alien times when I started. It is MUCH easier to improve if you are off by a larger margin. Diminishing returns you see.
- Other stuff like rallies are best left later. You need quick corrections and reflexes all the time in rally so you need to master asphalt first.
- Anything else, you will just get better with practice, there's no other way really. If you drive IRL it might seem totally different at first. With time you'll start to see similarities and your real and sim driving will get closer to each other
And going back full circle to the start, your "g-force imagination" will get better and better. This is the most difficult part to bridge between sim racing and real life, I think.
Good luck and most importantly, have fun! Getting a wheel is the best investment for sim racing that you will possibly make 👍
). Just some general tips to help ease the transition, as well as expected timeframes for your laptimes to "transfer" over:Preparation
- Start off with a game you know well, a car you know well and a track you know well. For me it was GT5P Integra at High Speed Ring. Yes, the more basic the better.
- Leave the FFB settings default. Obviously pick a game with good FFB so it's manageable at default settings. I don't advice arcade/simcades. AC and GT are good examples of decent FFB without much tinkering. PCARS is a nightmare on default.
- Seat and arm position is important. Pick a comfortable position where all controls are within easy reach. Make sure you have enough space around you for countersteering maneuvers. Also make sure everything is bolted on tight (or clamped at least). Make sure table is sturdy and doesn't move (you will use more force than you think).
First Lap
- First lap out, try not to use too many aids (at least use as much as you usually do on the pad). It's tempting to make it easy, but it will just slow down your learning process and you have to unlearn bad habits later.
- Take first lap slow and SMOOTH. It's ok not to go 100% full throttle immediately. Just try to get used to the sensations of FFB and grip. Try to explore the controls range (accel/brake/steer). If you have driven in real life, it's useful to try and imagine the g-forces acting on your body. For me it helps finding the limits of grip.
- I can tell you your biggest difficulty will be countersteering. So don't try to drift please. That will come later, I promise.
- Your 2nd and 3rd difficulty will be judging brake pressure & figuring out how much to turn the wheel.
- Brake pressure, unless you have a load cell, will only come from practice. If the game has brake travel indicators use it.
- Steering angle, trust me, if you take a right line you don't need more than 90 degree to either side. Most beginners use wayyy too much rotation. Use as little as possible while still making the corner.
Practice
- Once you've driven 10 or so laps, try a slightly faster car. For me, I used Integra > Evo X > 350Z > Lotus Elise (going from easy FF > 4WD > FR > MR). Use the same track for all these. Drive 10 laps each (or until you can drive without crash/spinout - remember, don't try to drift yet).
- Next try touring cars with downforce. Again go from FF, 4WD, FR, MR.
- Next if you're feeling adventurous try higher end racecars like LMPs and Formulas (I suggest leaving this to the 2nd or 3rd session).
- Rinse and repeat with another more difficult track.
- You can start tinkering with FFB at this point if you feel comfortable. Generally I don't advise super strong FFB. There's nothing macho about it. You just need enough force to feel over/understeer. Anything more is just going to make you slower when countersteering (see below).
- I spent about 1 month on this phase until I can say I'm more comfortable with a wheel than a pad.
Catching Slides
- After a month you can begin countersteering practice. Pick a low power RWD car, fit the crappiest tyres, and pick a track with consecutive esses. For me, I picked the Cappuccino at Suzuka East.
- Don't try to drift intentionally, just drive and when you oversteer try to catch the slide.
- There are 2 things you need to get right: steering angle and rotation speed. Most newbies counter too little and too late.
- For most slides, you need around 90-100 degree counter AND BACK to straight in about half a second, maybe less. Yes, it's a quick and violent maneuver.
- If you don't get it first try, I suggest watching online vids of people countersteering. Not just games, but IRL too. The Yellowbird video at Nurb is a good one. That'll help you get the "feel". I liken it to a tight rubber band connecting your car's rear end to your steering. The more it goes out of line, the more and quicker counter you need. Once it starts correcting, you need to rotate back at the same rate too.
- It took me about 6 months to get comfortable countering (meaning I can comfortable catch 99% of slides in any car without spinning out).
Drifting
- Finally, if you want, you can try drifting. IMO car setup is a lot more important with wheel drifting than controller drifting. Also how you hold the wheel, and how comfortable you are in letting it go when spinning and catching it. I can't recommend tips because this is personal for everyone. Just trial & error and find out what works the most natural for you.
- Personally, I'm not the greatest drifter myself, so someone more qualified can probably teach you more. My advice is to look up online vids. This is the one that helped me massively:
- Just like countersteer, there is a "feel" you need to get. The difference is instead of correcting slides, you want to maintain it. This needs 3 things: steering angle, rotation speed AND throttle position.
- Unfortunately the only advice I can give is practice, practice, practice. Unless you're a pro, but you won't be reading this then.
- Sidenote: unlike circuit driving, you want WEAKER FFB for drift. As weak as it allows with you still feeling the car's over/understeer. This is to help you rotate the wheel faster. In GT6 I use FFB 5 for normal driving, and FFB 1 for drift.
- It took me another 6 months to be a reasonable drifter. But even now I still drift better with a pad than a wheel
Moving On
- In total, it took me about one year to be consistently as quick with a wheel as I was with a pad. That was 7 years ago. Now my best wheel times are around 1.5 seconds faster than my pad times, BUT big difference is I get there within fewer laps and I can be more consistent longer with a wheel. Also I was around 3.5-4 seconds off top alien times when I started. It is MUCH easier to improve if you are off by a larger margin. Diminishing returns you see.
- Other stuff like rallies are best left later. You need quick corrections and reflexes all the time in rally so you need to master asphalt first.
- Anything else, you will just get better with practice, there's no other way really. If you drive IRL it might seem totally different at first. With time you'll start to see similarities and your real and sim driving will get closer to each other
And going back full circle to the start, your "g-force imagination" will get better and better. This is the most difficult part to bridge between sim racing and real life, I think.Good luck and most importantly, have fun! Getting a wheel is the best investment for sim racing that you will possibly make 👍
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- 1,256
- Vancouver, BC
- Awong124
I seriously think the quality of FFB on PCARS hugely depends on the wheel. I think it feels fine with a T300 even on default. It's not as good as it could be with some tinkering, but still better than GT6. Most of the complaints about PCARS FFB seem to come from G-wheel users. Maybe it's just not well optimized for G-wheels. I personally think PCARS FFB feels much better than AC, but I can imagine why G-wheel users think AC FFB is amazing. PCARS FFB is probably much more complicated and the G-wheels aren't capable of delivering that kind of fidelity, so I'm not even sure what PCARS would feel like on my G27. I'd be very interested in trying it if I ever get the chance. Whereas AC FFB is supposedly super simple, but to me that simplicity comes across on my T300 as somewhat notchy and vague. Where PCARS FFB really shines is being able to boost the specific forces you want to feel while decreasing the forces that drown out the details. And since different people have different preferences as to what those forces are, PCARS FFB provides the customizabilty for that. Honestly, I think PCARS FFB feels better than any other game I've ever tried.
- 34
- Manchester
Cheers LeGeNd-1, a massively helpful post there.
That was one of my worries to be honest, the 'disconnect' by not having g-forces and real world factors involved will somehow make it almost impossible to drive a car on its ragged edge, but I guess all that comes with experience of using a wheel. I nearly choked on my cornflakes though when you said it took you almost a year to get comparable lap times with your wheel compared to the pad controller. I was expecting it to take what, about a couple of weeks, a month maybe before I was nailing lap times left, right and centre....I guess I was wrong. Surely my 20 years of real world driving will hold me in good stead? On the flip side, i've been using a d-pad controller for the past 20 years to play my driving games so i've got to try and get rid of all of my previous knowledge of how to control a car in the video game world. Erm yeah, i'm not really sure what i'm talking about but i'll press on.
As for drifting, nah, thats not my thing. I'm all about the lap times and good clean racing. Once i've got used to it, I wouldn't mind joining an online league or something but we'll see.
That was one of my worries to be honest, the 'disconnect' by not having g-forces and real world factors involved will somehow make it almost impossible to drive a car on its ragged edge, but I guess all that comes with experience of using a wheel. I nearly choked on my cornflakes though when you said it took you almost a year to get comparable lap times with your wheel compared to the pad controller. I was expecting it to take what, about a couple of weeks, a month maybe before I was nailing lap times left, right and centre....I guess I was wrong. Surely my 20 years of real world driving will hold me in good stead? On the flip side, i've been using a d-pad controller for the past 20 years to play my driving games so i've got to try and get rid of all of my previous knowledge of how to control a car in the video game world. Erm yeah, i'm not really sure what i'm talking about but i'll press on.
As for drifting, nah, thats not my thing. I'm all about the lap times and good clean racing. Once i've got used to it, I wouldn't mind joining an online league or something but we'll see.
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,253
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
The problem with PCARS ultimate customization approach is, a lot of those settings parameters are irrelevant and unrealistic. A steering wheel in real life only reacts in certain ways defined by real world physics, so the in-game settings should reflect that. It's the devs job to optimize the settings for every wheel that's supported. Really, the only sliders the user need is global strength, rotation and road effects (plus maybe canned kerb effects). Like seriously why would you need to adjust Scoop Knee setting or whatever?
My hope for PCARS2 is they have presets applied according to the wheel you have that gives the most realistic setting. Simplify the main sliders to the 3 above BUT still have an "Advanced" tab for those that likes tinkering.
In terms of game consistency it's also really bad when every player has a different experience just because they have no idea how to set up FFB correctly. Even if the physics is good a poor FFB setting can completely ruin the experience. I think when people say PCARS is more realistic or less realistic, 99% of it is due to FFB set up wrongly. Whereas AC almost universally is praised because it's easy and default settings are good out of the box.
I was a long time pad user when I changed over, and I only started real life driving around the same time too. So it's all a pretty big learning curve and my brain had to adapt to 3 different control inputs at the same time (controller, game wheel, real wheel). It's a mess
Also I had no one guiding me so it was mostly trial and error. That 1 year timespan was a conservative estimate. I didn't play religiously everyday. If you spend a few hours everyday probably you can condense the transition period to 3-4 months. Having 20 years of real life experience will help too 👍Drifting even if you don't like it, is a useful skill to have honestly. Catching slides is part of racing and you never know when you might need to hold a slide (e.g. in the rain, or when an opponent PIT maneuvered you). Also it's indispensable in rally driving. So even if you don't want to intentionally drift, just keep it as a handy tool in your arsenal of techniques
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- 7,755
- Yorkshire
- ScapeGoat4U
- WhippingBoy
It too me a couple of months before I was getting the same lap times when I changed from my Logitech Driving Force Pro Wheel to my Logitech G25 mounted on a new Playseat Evolution. The change of wheel & driving position shook me up more than I thought it would. That said, some people do adapt quickly & hopefully you'll be one of them. Roll on tomorrow when you can try it out; I'm all excited for you!
- 2,232
- Lincolnshire
- PleaseD1e
It didn't take me long for my lap times to become comparable, but that's driving cars with relatively high grip levels or low powered cars. It did take me a while to become more consistent with +450bhp RWD cars.
Drive the cars that you're most comfortable in, learn the basics, then begin to push them harder to find the ragged edge. Once you're comfortable move onto something more difficult.
Probably AC. I've not played AC myself, but I've heard great things about it and assuming that there is a good selection of cars to choose from, you're probably going to learn more from that game. I wouldn't try to learn the wheel by playing either F1 or Dirt. F1 isn't exactly the most realistic game (IMO) and rallying is totally different to circuit racing.
Have fun.
Merry Christmas everyone.
Drive the cars that you're most comfortable in, learn the basics, then begin to push them harder to find the ragged edge. Once you're comfortable move onto something more difficult.
Probably AC. I've not played AC myself, but I've heard great things about it and assuming that there is a good selection of cars to choose from, you're probably going to learn more from that game. I wouldn't try to learn the wheel by playing either F1 or Dirt. F1 isn't exactly the most realistic game (IMO) and rallying is totally different to circuit racing.
Have fun.
Merry Christmas everyone.
- 34
- Manchester
So, I finally got my G29 up and running and bloody hell, it's fantastic. It elevates driving games to a whole new level. And tbh, I was expecting to struggle but I picked it up quite quickly. Driving with the shifter is a joyous experience....Anyhoo, I've a few more questions that I'd like to ask.
I played Assetto Corsa for a good while and I noticed after a couple of hours that the wheel was a bit skew whiff. It wasn't aligned quite correctly, pointing to the right a little if I wanted to drive in a straight line. Is this a common occurrence and presumably a reset of the game would realign that, yes?
And, perhaps this is best asked in the Assetto Corsa forum, but in regards to the FFB settings, what is Kerb, Road and Slip FFB? And what does Understeer Effect mean?
Thanks for any advice!
I played Assetto Corsa for a good while and I noticed after a couple of hours that the wheel was a bit skew whiff. It wasn't aligned quite correctly, pointing to the right a little if I wanted to drive in a straight line. Is this a common occurrence and presumably a reset of the game would realign that, yes?
And, perhaps this is best asked in the Assetto Corsa forum, but in regards to the FFB settings, what is Kerb, Road and Slip FFB? And what does Understeer Effect mean?
Thanks for any advice!
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,253
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
Are you playing on PC or PS4? If on PS4 just unplug and plug it back in so it can recalibrate. If it's on PC make sure you calibrate with Logitech profiler and in-game controller settings. My G25 is permanently off to the left by about 5 degrees. Nothing major but you can certainly feel it down the straights. But mine is 8 years old and a new one shouldn't do that. If you have warranty I'd suggest get it checked while you're still covered.
You'd get a much more detailed answer in AC forums, but in summary:
Kerb - how strong vibrations from kerbs
Road - how strong vibrations from road imperfections
Slip - exaggerates the feeling of "lightness" when you oversteer
Understeer - exaggerates the feeling of "lightness" when you understeer
AC's FFB actually has all of the above effects already in the vanilla FFB. Those sliders are if you want those specific forces amplified (and hence more unnatural). My advice, leave them all at 0 and just adjust the strength of main FFB (Gain) from car to car.
- 34
- Manchester
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,253
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
Yes just pull the USB cable and plug it back in. You can do this in game no problems. Just remember that the wheel auto calibrates, but you have to calibrate the 3 pedals manually by pressing it all the way in and out (otherwise the game registers 1mm input as full range, and you'll lockup/spin every corner).
Another possibility would be overheating which causes one of the motors to weaken (there's 2 motors resisting each other when the wheel's centered - so if 1 is weakened then the other will overpower it and "pull" the wheel to one side). My G25 does this after playing for long periods but since I switched to low FFB it happens less often.
For G25 you can also have a broken optical encoder, but for G29 they replaced it with a new sensor so it shouldn't be an issue.
- 7,755
- Yorkshire
- ScapeGoat4U
- WhippingBoy
Kerb is the amount of feedback/vibration that you get through the wheel when you run over kerbs/rumble strips.
Road is the amount of feedback/vibration that you get from bumps in the road surface (AC tracks are all laser scanned so it's very accurate).
Slip is a stupid arcade effect that will make your wheel vibrate everytime the wheels slip, very unrealistic, if you want realism turn it off.
Understeer Effect will make the wheel go lighter when you understeer. This is a realistic effect & should be turned on.
In a real car you would feel some vibration through the wheel due to rumble strips, & maybe even a very bumpy road. However, you'd feel most of them through your body. These two settings effectively allow you to amplify the effect through the wheel which will compensate for the loss of body feel. Some people like them off, some people like them on. I like them on & set quite high, because I want to feel all the glorious laser scaned bumps, turing them off just means that all that laser scanning has gone to waste. I recommend having them on & setting them to your own personal taste, but for the sake of simplicity set them both the same as each other, i.e. 25/25, 50/50/, 75/75 etc. FFB should be set to 100%, because the G29 is quite weak in the FFB department compared to other wheels like the Thrustmaster range.
The G29 is hot swappable, so you can plug it in & out & it will just recalibrate itself. However, I don't know if AC will accept this feature.
The Logitech G25, G27, & G29 are all slightly off centre on Playstation games, even when fully calibrated. However, if yours is going off noticabley & after a few hours, then I'm 99% sure that you have a faulty wheel (optical sensor fault). Return it asap to the store where it was bought & they will simply replace it. You have 1 year warranty from the store, & an extra years warranty from the manufacturer, 2 years in all. Logitech are very good with it & will sometimes replace defective wheels outside of warranty as well.
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- 34
- Manchester
Oh god, this isn't what I wanted to hear....I'm going to plug it back in for a couple of hours and see if it happens again.
The wheel was at roughly a five degree angle to the right if I wanted to drive straight. If I held the wheel in a dead on position then the car would start veering to the left.
I'll give it another go.
The wheel was at roughly a five degree angle to the right if I wanted to drive straight. If I held the wheel in a dead on position then the car would start veering to the left.
I'll give it another go.
LeGeNd-1
Premium
- 7,253
- Australia
- GTP_LeGeNd-1
I think he might be referring to the small deadzone either side of centre that's always there in Logi G wheels. Depending how you hold your wheel, it can give the illusion that it's slightly off centre when going straight. I don't think this is what the Betelguese is referring to though, his problem sounds more severe and is very likely a fault if it doesn't go away after re-calibrating.
- 34
- Manchester
Yeah, I'm almost certain my wheel is defective. I tried it for a good few hours earlier on three different games and it happened on each of them.
I put Assetto Corsa on first and for sure, after 30 minutes the wheel had to be held at a 10 degree angle to drive in a straight line. So I unplugged the USB cable, it recalibrated and again, 30 minutes later it did the exact same thing again. So I gave up on Assetto Corsa.
Next I tried Driveclub. Again, at first it was perfect but after half an hour I had the same issue but this time it was 10 degrees to the left! I had to hold the wheel with the marker on the top in an eleven o'clock position to drive in a straight line! Regardless, I pressed on and somehow, about 20 minutes later it was suddenly correctly aligned again! I gave up after that and thought I'd experiment with another game.
So finally I tried Dirt Rally and I thought I was getting away with it in that because after a good hour or so of playing, the wheel was still aligned correctly. However, not long after I suddenly found myself having the old '10 degrees to the right to drive in a straight line' problem. That's when I'd had enough and switched it off.
So, it looks like I'll be returning it tomorrow. Shame, as the time I've spent with it whilst it's working correctly has just elevated my driving games to a whole new level.
PS - Dirt Rally, omg. I thought Assetto Corsa was fun but jeez, Dirt Rally is just INSANE fun with a wheel, pedals and manual gearbox. I was wringing the neck of some of those cars and holding on for dear life at the same time! A truly magnificent game with the wheel, pedal and gearstick combination (when the peripherals are working properly that is)....I hope I get this wheel situation sorted out soon as I'm just DYING to get stuck into that game.
I put Assetto Corsa on first and for sure, after 30 minutes the wheel had to be held at a 10 degree angle to drive in a straight line. So I unplugged the USB cable, it recalibrated and again, 30 minutes later it did the exact same thing again. So I gave up on Assetto Corsa.
Next I tried Driveclub. Again, at first it was perfect but after half an hour I had the same issue but this time it was 10 degrees to the left! I had to hold the wheel with the marker on the top in an eleven o'clock position to drive in a straight line! Regardless, I pressed on and somehow, about 20 minutes later it was suddenly correctly aligned again! I gave up after that and thought I'd experiment with another game.
So finally I tried Dirt Rally and I thought I was getting away with it in that because after a good hour or so of playing, the wheel was still aligned correctly. However, not long after I suddenly found myself having the old '10 degrees to the right to drive in a straight line' problem. That's when I'd had enough and switched it off.
So, it looks like I'll be returning it tomorrow. Shame, as the time I've spent with it whilst it's working correctly has just elevated my driving games to a whole new level.
PS - Dirt Rally, omg. I thought Assetto Corsa was fun but jeez, Dirt Rally is just INSANE fun with a wheel, pedals and manual gearbox. I was wringing the neck of some of those cars and holding on for dear life at the same time! A truly magnificent game with the wheel, pedal and gearstick combination (when the peripherals are working properly that is)....I hope I get this wheel situation sorted out soon as I'm just DYING to get stuck into that game.
- 7,755
- Yorkshire
- ScapeGoat4U
- WhippingBoy
Yes, absolutely sure. I've owned 3 G25's, 2 G27's, & a G29l; they were all the same, slightly off to the right. It was so slight though that most people would never notice it.
I've never noticed any deadzone at all in Logitech G wheels, not having any is what causes them to oscilate in games like Gran Turismo.
- 1,256
- Vancouver, BC
- Awong124
The only deadzone I've ever noticed in my G27 was a very small (maybe 2-3mm) FFB deadzone in the center. And I think that might have been due to wear, and might not have been there when new. But never a movement deadzone, like even if I didn't feel FFB within a few mm on center, the movement itself always registered.
