Logitech RS50 | Settings and tips

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@A_Higher_Place let me explain that with an example. Project Cars 3 has Trueforce support in it and it worked fine on PS4. When PS5 came out though if you ran it on that platform, even though it’s the same game, it would constantly cut out. However, if you connected the wheel through a hub then it was fine.

Worth a try if you can…
 
This maybe a beginner/silly question.

Last week at BMB and the Citroen C4 the wheel was smooth like butter.

I’ve just jumped on interlagos in the 911 and it’s really fighting back against me.

Is this as simple as the fact the tyres are different/car is fast/track isn’t as smooth?

Do you guys change settings based on combo?
 
Stringerbell
Is this as simple as the fact the tyres are different/car is fast/track isn’t as smooth?
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I think so. Some tracks offer very different track surfaces too, some parts feel smooth, other rough (like Daytone Road Course). And from cars to cars it varies too.
Stringerbell
Do you guys change settings based on combo?
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Never. But I am a plug'n'play minded player. Your mileage may vary.
 
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Has anyone used the RS50 with Assetto Corsa Competizione on PS4? The pedals and the buttons on the wheel do work fine, but the steering is all over the place. Instead of turning gradually it jumps from 100% left to 100% right as soon as the wheel is turned beyond the center position. Switching to Pro Compatibility or playing around with the angle setting didn't help.

Any advice on what's wrong here?
 
The PS4 version of ACC can't work with the RS50, I'm afraid. They use a white list system for wheels in that title and if the wheel you're using isn't on that list then the steering does exactly that. As the PS4 version hasn't been updated for many years now, there's no way it will get support for newer wheels.

The PS5 version of ACC does have support for the Pro Wheel, so the compatibility mode on the RS50 works in that version. It may be time to consider upgrading to the PS5...
 
LOGI_Rich
The PS4 version of ACC can't work with the RS50, I'm afraid. They use a white list system for wheels in that title and if the wheel you're using isn't on that list then the steering does exactly that. As the PS4 version hasn't been updated for many years now, there's no way it will get support for newer wheels.

The PS5 version of ACC does have support for the Pro Wheel, so the compatibility mode on the RS50 works in that version. It may be time to consider upgrading to the PS5...
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I see. Then probably the same is true for the even older AC. Since the PS4 still has a large user base, i guess it would be useful to many to include that information in the compatibility and settings list.

Considering that the RS50 is marketed with PS4 compatibility that list might be somewhat misleading ;)
 
The original AC is fine and is in the settings list. For ACC on PlayStation we specifically call out PS5 there and most people seemed to understand that this means that the PS4 version isn't compatible, due to it's lack of mention. But we'll be updating it to state that the PS4 version isn't compatible.
 
LOGI_Rich
Whatever the in-game torque is set to becomes the cap/max that the game will output. The Strength on the wheel then acts as a gain adjustment within the level set by that in-game cap.

e.g.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
Set in-game to 5 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 2Nm output.

Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 8Nm and you'll get 8Nm output.
Set in-game to 10 and Strength on base to 4Nm and you'll get around 4Nm output.
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Hi Rich, so a question then.

if you wanted more detail on losing grip, which is normally a lightness on the wheel... which is better from the above.

Is it better for the game to provide that experience or the wheel? which is more refined and why?

My initial thought was that if the game is on 10, and the wheel on 4nm, then the detail saturation for the wheel will be greater. i.e 4nm has 10 to pick from. Where as if you only use 5 on the game, and 8nm on the wheel the detail bandwidth is more narrow?


sorry, trying to word it in a way that make sense :P
 
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For (hopefully) fairly obvious reasons, I've been spending time this week checking in on handbrake and shifter support in many titles, as well as looking to expand on some of the recommended game settings.

We'd only really previously talked about Forza Horizon 4 and 5 when it came to the Pro and especially RS50, so I wanted to check out the older titles again. It's great that when you do this, you find that everything works and in one case in a way that you might not have expected.

Forza Horizon 1, an Xbox 360 title(!!!!) works superbly with RS50/Pro in their native compatibility modes, with manual shifter and analogue handbrake support on Xbox Series. That's a tribute to the work of MS's backwards compatibility teams doing some crazy work to perform the translation work between Xbox 360's wheel support with Xbox One/Series' wheel support.

FFB Filter 10, Dampener 20 and Angle 200. Sooooooo much fun to go and cruise around Colorado again - it's been years!!!

Forza Horizon-2026_01_30-16_39_22.webp


P.S. FH2/3 are great with the shifter as well, but they can only accept the digital handbrake mode. It's still amazing fun to revisit France, Italy/Australia respectively though
😁


P.P.S. Sadly, everything from 4 backwards isn't available digitally any more, but you can find physical copies online, so do it! I didn't need to, but then that's the advantage of having an Xbox account that goes back to the original Xbox
🥳
 
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RogerSmith82
After latest Update, in PS5 Mode, rotary buttons still LAGGING while scrolling in Mapping Menu in GT7
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Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
 
Lomic
Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
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Exactly.
But tbh, the only wheel with ergonomic buttons for Mapping in GT7 are the Fanatec with specific GT Wheel or the T-GT. Tough the RS Hub in PS4 Mode is not too bad. But in PS5 Mode still too bad.
Hope Logitech can fix the scrolling issue
 
Lomic
Not sure how it was before, but it is one thing that this wheel/hub does not well : the knobs rotate too easily and you end up moving too fast and skip the option you wanted to adjust or when adjusting the values for the selected option, you go too high/low depending on the way you go.

Not convenient to use, especially when driving or when race is starting and you have very little time to change options (like select Fuel Map option, then pick the FM level you want to use).

During races, if there are long enough straights you can change option and setting, but you can't do it efficiently and quickly each time, so you need time to retry.
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For now, since as you mention the MFD knobs are seemingly too loose to change values while racing (FM, brake bal etc), I find remapping MFD inc/dec to the RS50 stick, a better option.
 
Definitely don't reference an old comment like that regarding the Pro Wheel - this was before they reduced the Trueforce output in GT7, so it doesn't apply any more :-)

Sorry to hear you're having trouble. There's a chance it could be an issue with the unit, but the first and obvious thing to ask is if you have connected it to a PC running G HUB and checked for firmware updates? Also, it's crucial that you test in more than one game.
 
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The alignment is easily corrected by setting the centre calibration in G HUB on a PC, but if you do that and it slips away from being centered then check the end of this comment. If you're getting shaking around centre in GT7 and it's strong, then that initially sounds like there's nothing wrong (GT7 has a very strong centering setup for its force feedback, as you seem to be aware).

However, the "thumb" (I assume you mean thump/bump?) does sound like there could be an issue in the unit, because you should not be feeling anything like that. Does it always occur at the same point in the wheel rotation? Are you getting the slip in centre that I mentioned at the top? If so, you could try tightening the bolt that secures the QR adapter onto the shaft of the base. You just need to:
  1. Power off the base
  2. Remove the wheel
  3. Remove the four bolts on the front of the base
  4. Gently lift away the front panel (making sure you don't pull on the ribbon cable for the OLED display) and rest it against the side of the base.
You will have access to the bolt for the QR adapter. Don't over-tighten it, but give it an extra quarter turn. Reassemble, reset the calibration in G HUB and then give it another go.
 
Yes, the buttons can rattle if Trueforce is turned up and specific frequencies are emitted by the games.

I think you should definitely try tightening the QR adapter by the sounds of it - nothing to lose!
 
After nearly 4 years on GT7 with the Logi G923 wheel and a bunch of custom mods like brake and gas pedal enhancements, gear shifter stiffening, carbon forged knob 😆 and paddle shifting magnets and trying out D shaped wheels, full leather 13” wheels, formula 1 style 3d printed wheels and going from a gt omega stand to the playseat trophy, I finally upgraded to the RS50, the pricing and the testimonials here and online were enough for me to commit to the purchase. Super excited to put it all together tonight and test it on GT7!

If I’m correct in the few pages I read, I should update the base software in g hub on my pc and adjust some settings there as well? Really fortunate to step up in the sim racing setup. Now my son gets to use the g923 and gt omega with his ps4 😁 also when will the MOMO 320mm wheel be back in stock? I NEED THAT!!
 
Resna777
I should update the base software in g hub on my pc and adjust some settings there as well?
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I never did any update or settings on PC, only edited some settings through the screen on the wheel. Works perfectly fine for me.
 
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So for the first time since having the RS50 wheel, I seem to have found a solution, or at least an improvement to Rally/Snow (no resistance/impossible to counter-steer) issue, that some have experienced in GT7.
Ive been VERY frustrated with GT7 Rally races since transitioning from 923 to RS50 wheel. Im not a huge fan of Rally races, but, always considered myself good at it, particularly counter-steering, and they do pop up now and then on the Weekly Challenges.

GT7 rally physics output much less FFB by design. GT7 sends far weaker steering forces on dirt/snow and the game outputs little self-aligning torque, of course.

On DD wheels like the RS50, there is almost no mechanical friction, so when GT7 sends weak forces, the wheel feels totally loose. The wheel is fine. The FFB signal from GT7 Rally is weak, and the RS50 exposes it.
So in GT7 Rally, and Im assuming other Rally games(dont know dont have any), you end up with: low grip physics; no spring centering; DD wheel with zero friction with the result that the wheel feels disconnected.
On belt wheels this still feels ok because the belt friction adds resistance.

You need to add artificial resistance using wheel base settings for the most part.
Edit one of your other RS50 Profiles that youre not using for Road driving(I hooked my wheel up to GHUb and renamed Profile 2 to Offroad but you can just use the wheel default name)
Strength 100%
FFB Filter 8-10
Dampener 25-35 This is huge in making it feel useable
TrueForce 15-25
Again, the Dampener change is the key fix
I also, changed Compatibility to Pro Wheel, just because others who hadnt experienced the issue were using that. Not certain if this is 100% necessary. I need to test more and compare RS Wheel vs Pro Wheel selected.
Lastly, when you enter a Rally/Snow race, go to Controller options and change:
Max Torque to 10
Sensitivity to 1 (Higher sensitivity reduces center resistance, just what you dont want in Rally). For Road races, I tend to keep Sensitivity low anyway, and Max Torque at 6-10 depending on Road car, so not much change there for me.

Hope this helps
 
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