Mustang's car search thread - IT'S OVER!

  • Thread starter Thread starter mustangGT90210
  • 696 comments
  • 29,570 views
Perfect Balance
5 bucks says it sounds like a rubber band.
Click to expand...

5 bucks says that was so pointless. I know it'll sound like a rubber band and I'm actually ready to accept that :p

Do you know if the Si model runs premium gas? The 'Lude is totally clean, no ID on it but a Honda badge. I can't tell if it's a VTEC or not.


More news!
From what I've researched, it appears the Prelude Si runs on Premium also. I figured in another cost analysis

Code: 
Prelude 2.2L Si/VTEC
15.9 Gallons
21 MPG average
333 mpt
30 miles/day
900 miles/ month
$69.17 to fill up
$183/ month for gas
200/ month insurance
$383/ month total
 
You only drive 900 miles a month? Dang. I drive nearly 2000, and I live three minutes from work.

The Si came with the H23A1 (2.3L) non-VTEC engine which made 160 hp and 163 lb-ft of torque. It's decent to move the car and the torque is satisfying. It'll cruise the highway at 80mph all day without slowing down going through the mountains.

The VTEC car came with everyone's favorite H22A1 DOHC VTEC engine with about 190hp an 160 lb-ft. Also a much more fun 7600rpm redline, as opposed to 6500. I've driven a last-gen VTEC and it was really comfortable, quick, and fun. Quicker than my EK Si, and probably about the same as an Integra GSR. But the H22A1 is much more torquey and doesn't need to be revved way up to make power. It's a good mix between a cruiser engine like the H23 and a high-strung go-fast engine like the B18.

The bottom line is that if it's in good shape (especially the body), it's probably a really good buy.
 
Keef
You only drive 900 miles a month? Dang. I drive nearly 2000, and I live three minutes from work.

The Si came with the H23A1 (2.3L) non-VTEC engine which made 160 hp and 163 lb-ft of torque. It's decent to move the car and the torque is satisfying. It'll cruise the highway at 80mph all day without slowing down going through the mountains.

The VTEC car came with everyone's favorite H22A1 DOHC VTEC engine with about 190hp an 160 lb-ft. Also a much more fun 7600rpm redline, as opposed to 6500. I've driven a last-gen VTEC and it was really comfortable, quick, and fun. Quicker than my EK Si, and probably about the same as an Integra GSR. But the H22A1 is much more torquey and doesn't need to be revved way up to make power. It's a good mix between a cruiser engine like the H23 and a high-strung go-fast engine like the B18.

The bottom line is that if it's in good shape (especially the body), it's probably a really good buy.
Click to expand...

I'm figuring around 900 a month. I'm a high school student, the school is 7 miles from home, and I work 7 miles from home.

I'm seein the Si with comparable performance of that of the Mustangs I've been looking at, so I think the Si would do. I really just need to test the thing out. Ask the owner if it really is VTEC or Si.

The body is like perfect, with the paint still looking incredibly glossy. 3500 seems a bit high for a car with No AC. I understand if it's the VTEC, but if it isn't I'm probably gonna have to pass.

How reliable are the H23A1 and H22A1?
 
H22A is quite reliable when taken care of. 4th and 5th gen Preludes are brilliant all around. They look good, are comfy, good economy, quick (VTEC only), and most importantly hold their value well for a car that type. I'd say if the car has no signs of youth driving it and no ricer junk buy it. Insurance might not be so cheap.
 
mustangGT90210
I'm figuring around 900 a month. I'm a high school student, the school is 7 miles from home, and I work 7 miles from home.

I'm seein the Si with comparable performance of that of the Mustangs I've been looking at, so I think the Si would do. I really just need to test the thing out. Ask the owner if it really is VTEC or Si.

The body is like perfect, with the paint still looking incredibly glossy. 3500 seems a bit high for a car with No AC. I understand if it's the VTEC, but if it isn't I'm probably gonna have to pass.

How reliable are the H23A1 and H22A1?
Click to expand...
If it doesn't have air conditioning I doubt it's a VTEC. You can check for yourself by looking at the 4th through 6th digits in the VIN number--the Si will be BB2 and the VTEC will be BB1. Also, with a VTEC I would expect to pay at least $3,500. Kelley Blue Book lists it at that, but I can't hardly see how anyone who knows the car would ever sell it that cheap.
 
Ok hers what I know

1. regardless of it being an Si or VTEC buy it if its in good condition, I had an Si and I would buy 10 more if the situation arose.
2. It uses premium but when I had my Si, I never got worse than 26mpg
3. Only the S model with the F22 had an option for no A/C
4. Leather seats are a dead giveaway of the VTEC model and it had bigger either front or rear brakes

Just read your post again and it appears that it DID have a leather interior so it would be a VTEC model with the H22. Couple things about that
1. Make sure the timing belt and water pump were changed at 90k
2. It is normal for it to use oil so check it regularly
 
Keef
If it doesn't have air conditioning I doubt it's a VTEC. You can check for yourself by looking at the 4th through 6th digits in the VIN number--the Si will be BB2 and the VTEC will be BB1. Also, with a VTEC I would expect to pay at least $3,500. Kelley Blue Book lists it at that, but I can't hardly see how anyone who knows the car would ever sell it that cheap.
Click to expand...

Sorry, it has air conditioning, but it is broken. I'll have to remember that. I'm thinkin' about going down to talk to the owner tommorow.
 
Here's some of the low down. It's a '93 Si model with a '98 VTEC engine swapped in. Leather interior, 64,000 thousand on the new motor, nice sound system, doesn't sound too ricy, good tires, and great paint. The front bumper is clearly a replacement because it doesn't color match and I'd have to bring them down on that because it isn't fitting flush either. The AC was quoted at about an $800 dollar repair. Overall it's a ncie little car and I'm trying to get my dad down there so I can test drive it. I also noticed it's got a big ole' aftermarket (cold air?) intake on it.
 
I've been bitten by the VTEC bug. Just drove that Prelude, and it's down right amazing. It feels so much faster than my dad's mustang and has an insanely light clutch. Fart can needs to go, but I loved the loud exhaust.

Now on to the problems. The AC is broken, and it will take a custom AC job to make it work because of the engine swap. The car needs a front end allignment. The headlights don't work, the blinkers are like falling out and the bumper needs one side rescrewed because it's not sitting flush. The idle is low, but they said they would adjust that. It sounds like there is a Vacuum leak but I'll talk to him more seriously later after I get some money.

I'm guessing I'll go in there starting at around 2500?
 
I'd be wondering whether or not the rest of the drivetrain (I don't know Preludes that much) is the same as the VTEC model for reliabilities sake. I don't see much wrong with it otherwise.
 
Toronado
I'd be wondering whether or not the rest of the drivetrain (I don't know Preludes that much) is the same as the VTEC model for reliabilities sake. I don't see much wrong with it otherwise.
Click to expand...

I'd be fine without AC, just get a fan in the car!

I don't think the radiator fan is working, because after about a 30-45 minutes running, it was at 3/4 max temp..


I forgot to mention it shut off on me twice. Once slowing down from 55 to about 20(in neutral) before taking a turn, then again from 30-5(in neutral again). Would have happened a third time, but I tapped the gas when the idle dropped to about 300 and saved it.
 
There is no way the car is worth anything with that many problems. I say find something else.

EDIT: If the "sounds like a vacuum leak" part is just a sort of sucking sound from the engine, it's just the intake. A vacuum leak would made the idle go up and down repeatedly.
 
I'd be wondering if it's cutting out.

Also, if it's overheating, has the engine been upgraded but not the radiator? Does the engine management properly kick in the fans? Sounds like a shoddy installation to me, and a bomb ready to go off.

Now you've driven VTEC powah, go and find an unmolested Prelude of similar age. Shame you guys don't get the FTO, it's a good alternative to both the Integra Type-R (nicer V6 noise, more torque, less toy-town interior) and the Prelude (lighter, quicker, more nimble, nicer V6-noise.) :D

Alternatively, if you're set, get a local Honda specialist on your side and take the car there with the owner. After they've sucked their teeth a while they'll give you an honest opinion (and a a quote to put it right) and you can batter the vendor around the face with it.
 
I agree with PB that with that many problems you should let the car go. I've been around countless engine-swapped Hondas, from turbo K20s in a Civic to H22s and a simple-as-pie B18 into a B16 car. They always have problems, but the ones that weren't done well have the most. Usually the problems are electrical because an engine only turns one way, and electrical problems get expensive quick. That's the main reason they keep driving the same car that can't figure out where it wants to idle and has "off days". That's also the reason I bought a stock car for a hefty price--so I can do my own modifications and do them right.

The bottom line is that that simple swap shouldn't have any problems. It's really easy to do it right. Somebody jacked that thing up pretty good, so I'd leave it be.
 
Well, the sucking sound is coming from the opposite side of the engine compartment than the intake... Of course before I buy it I'd want it looked over professional Honda mechanic. Find out whats up completely.

If nothing very serious is wrong, I'll really consider it. It needs a good look over by pros. The owner said it's a good car for people that like to work on cars.

It may just be as simple as nobody hooked up some wires, but once again, need a mechanic.
 
Run far, far away. The only types of cars you say that about are things like old British Roadsters and the like. If he has managed to turn a Prelude into a car that can be labeled with that statement, imagine what is teetering on the edge of being broken.
 
Wow, I'm with these guys go the absolute farthest away from this car. You need a car that is reliable not a "fixxeruppper".
 
Hondas are cars that never go wrong. When something that can't possibly go wrong, goes wrong, the problem is usually so huge that it is impossible to get at. Get the **** away from that car. Do not turn around. Do not collect $200. Do not pass go. If you buy it, it will rape you in your sleep, but not before it gets some horrible STD.
 
mustangGT90210
Here's some of the low down. It's a '93 Si model with a '98 VTEC engine swapped in.
Click to expand...

For some reason this doesnt make sense to me. The 93 Prelude is OBDI and the 98 is OBDII I dont know if it is hard or not to convert but for some reason I was thinking it was a pretty big task. Also, you said it had leather? That would mean it was the VTEC model to begin with, unless the owner swapped seats too. If memory serves me correct, the spoiler should have an LED strip across it that would tell you if it was the VTEC model originally or not.
 
I wonder if the engine swapper decided to put an OBD2 H22 into an OBD1 pre-1996 wiring harness and just did a crap job. I don't understand the modifications needed to do all that, but it's possible to modify the existing computer and harnesses to fit it all together. Problem is that you just don't know what they did, and when it comes time to fix it the Haynes manual won't be any help because of all the modifications.


EDIT: Tree'd :lol:. Looks like we both realized the same thing at the same time.

The ideal way to swap onboard diagnostics systems is to replace the computer and all the engine control wiring completely. But that can get expensive, so the computer is probably just "chipped", and extra wires and sensors could be spliced in wherever it was convenient.
 
Boz Mon
For some reason this doesnt make sense to me. The 93 Prelude is OBDI and the 98 is OBDII I dont know if it is hard or not to convert but for some reason I was thinking it was a pretty big task. Also, you said it had leather? That would mean it was the VTEC model to begin with, unless the owner swapped seats too. If memory serves me correct, the spoiler should have an LED strip across it that would tell you if it was the VTEC model originally or not.
Click to expand...

I talked to the 2nd owner yesterday, the guy who has been working on the car, it's a '94 VTEC motor, not a '98. I know it was an Si model, the VIN had the BB2 in the 4-6 digits(thanks Keef for that). There isn't an LED strip on the spoiler either.

Yeah, I'm gonna have to pass. I can find better 'Ludes for $3500-$4000.

If a broken one is that much fun, I can't wait to drive a good one :dopey:
 
Sounds good, find another and buy it. Still doesnt explain the leather seats though. Like I said before, I am 95% sure that only the VTEC model, and the SE (Which was pretty much the same as the VTEC model but with the h23 and different wheels) are the only 4th gens with leather. Must be swapped seats I guess?
 
Boz Mon
Sounds good, find another and buy it. Still doesnt explain the leather seats though. Like I said before, I am 95% sure that only the VTEC model, and the SE (Which was pretty much the same as the VTEC model but with the h23 and different wheels) are the only 4th gens with leather. Must be swapped seats I guess?
Click to expand...

Maybe, they had to go pretty far on it though, because the back bench was leather too. There really wasn't too much left stock anywhere but the outside of the car
 
Does anybody know anything about a Chevy Cavalier or Dodge Neon in terms of fun to drive and power wise?
 
Cavalier:

Depends on what you're looking for I suppose. The late-model Z24 cars with a stick would be a great find, and quite surprisingly, came out of the factory with a fair bit of capability baked-in. The problem is, they're very rare, and if you're anywhere outside of the Mid-West, you're going to have an extremely hard time finding one. To that end, if you're looking at the Cavalier route, go for the Ecotec-powered models... Everything else J-Body is a potential money pit.

Neon:

The R/T and ACR models are where the money is at, and personally speaking, I'd choose to avoid the later models... But the later R/Ts were actually pretty good cars. I'm not as knowledgeable on these cars, but it seems like they were built pretty well at the time, and although having their fair share of American-like problems... They certainly aren't the worst cars on the road either.
 
The problem with early Neons is that they explode. Either get a second gen, or find a late first gen. The second gen is a better car, but the first gen is more fun. I'd try to get an R/T or ACR, personally.
The problem with Cavaliers is that they are Cavaliers. Avoid.
 

Latest Posts

Back