Mustang's F150 thread - It's got little glowy things on the roof! :D

[nitrorustler41]

Discount tire hooked me up. I think they were about 90 bucks a piece. Powdercoat wasn't too much money, and its holding up great.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Damn man that's a great price for good looking wheels. What size/backspacing are they? I've narrowed my choices down to a 15x10 with 4 or less inches of backspacing

 

[mustangGT90210]

2 days ago, I splurged a little bit and finally replaced my quiet ass Xplod door speakers. They had decent sound quality, but left a lot to be desired in the volume and higher note range. So I went down to walmart to grab the $45 pair of 6.5in Pioneer speakers. I'd already installed these in 2 of my other friend's trucks so I knew they had a great bang for the buck, and blew mine out of the water.

Install was stupid easy, they ended up fitting into where holes had been drilled previously in my doors, so I just had to screw 'em in, and put my door panels back on.

Then came the test, which showed me everything they had on the Xplods. They're much louder (90db VS 87db sensitivity), but have much better sound quality, come out way cleaner and can go nearly as high as some cheap little tweeters I used to have in the truck to supplement the old ones. And they don't distort at all, I can plug in my iPod and crank it up to 40 now where as before 30 was reallllllly pushing it. And the big part is with the radio at 20 I can hear my music clearly while driving 60mph with the windows down

So now my system is comprised of these Pioneers, a Sony head unit(I like it, very nice) 2 JVC tower speakers and 2 stock '06 Chevy 1500 4x6 speakers which are surprisingly decent, behind the seat. And then a 10inch pioneer sub in a truck box, downfiring on the trans hump being fed by a 300 watt Dual amp. All in all, there's $200 worth of stereo equipment in here, and I'm extremely pleased, barring one last upgrade to the 4x6/6x9s in the back, I'll be totally done with the audio side of things.

New VS old

 

[Sniffs]

ugh, don't remind me about sony Xplod. when I was hauling loggers, my crew bought me a single disk for christmas so THEY could have continuous music to listen to. guess what the speakers were?

it was nothing but problems with that poor 4Runner. there wasn't a drop of carpet in it, most of the sound insulation was gone, and 3/4 of the trim screws were missing 'cause some moron kid had stripped the thing to turn it into a rolling boombox (we even found a spare set of unused RCA plugs behind the stock radio that had been just dropped back in). the CD had a 200 watt pre-amp built in, which was too much for the stockers (little 4 ohm jobbies), and the speakers that came WITH the set were physically too big for the vehicle. the guy that put the radio in botched the damn thing anyway, and, like most Sony bits that aren't game consoles, something broke. i swiped the speakers for use on my in-house surround.

 

[mustangGT90210]

My Xplods weren't bad, they just weren't good either. I'm nothing but happy with the Xplod head unit

The speakers were good for me, but the more I upgraded the system around them, they got really weak. They're a decent stock replacement, and have decent volume, but I just wanted more everything. Volume, clarity, better highs, crispness, the Pioneers are much better. And cost the same brand new

 

[mustangGT90210]

Well today... I finally got around to fixing the ground broken ground wire on my second 55w aux light. So after I fixed that I realized my power wires weren't gonna make it, and I wanted a better place for the lights anyways. So my idea? Take off the plastic around the hitch area, bolt the light brackets through the bumper holes that were covered, and then bedline the whole thing around the hitch, for added grip when I step up/it looks better than my beat up plastic piece

I added them because my back up lights blow since I smoked my tails, and they don't look right in the grille since I blacked it out

Anyways, on to the pic!

 

[Slash]

Too bad it's a 6cyl. We had a 6cyl and changed all the mounts and everything. Anything from a 351W up will make decent power. Although I have seen built 6's pushing 500hp. That's up to you.

Would be cool though to see a truck spinning tires going up hills. Have you givin any thought to a carbon or aluminum driveshaft? Could improve performance slightly.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Too bad it's a 6cyl. We had a 6cyl and changed all the mounts and everything. Anything from a 351W up will make decent power. Although I have seen built 6's pushing 500hp. That's up to you.

Would be cool though to see a truck spinning tires going up hills. Have you givin any thought to a carbon or aluminum driveshaft? Could improve performance slightly.

I can turbo the stock motor at about 5 psi and lay down 360+ ft pounds of torque at around 1800-2000 rpm and 250ish hp.

I've given no thought to a drive shaft right now, and never have thought about much performance with a truck. If I want to go fast it'll be a Mustang or Trans Am. Speeding up the truck is so much more money than it's worth.


That being said, if this 6 ever dies, my dream is a 351W based 427 Stroker bolted to a 5 or 6 speed manual.

 

[Slash]

Good luck getting the 6 to die. THEY NEVER DIE lol.


I'm not saying you have to go fast, but you can get very good power easily. Performance could be better. Have you increased compression or bored/stroked it?

 

[mustangGT90210]

I have done nothing to the engine, just maintained it haha I need a reliable truck before a powerful one with issues.

How much they can be bored and stroked?

 

[Slash]

They can really be built. As far as I know the max overbore you can safely go is 60 over (I wouldn't even go that far, maybe 40 over), pushing the cubes to 309. You can increase the stroke to 4.375 inches pushing cubes to 338c.i. If you going to stroke it though, better off saving some cash and getting a turbo.


Next step would be to increase compression. I think for your F150 your only getting an 8:5:1 to 8:8:1 ratio. Anywhere in there. I know '85's had relatively low compression (as with 351W's from 1975 and up) so I can't imagine a few years making much of a difference.

Different high performance pistons would be good too, as well as a new cam. Headers and intake, a bigger carb (if yours is carbed, some are Fuel Injected) and new heads. Depending on what you get your hp range could be between 300 and 500. That's up to you. Also, get used to porting. Bigger valves would be good, as well as a new ignition system to power it.

If you do a 100 overbore (sleeves) and stroke it to 4.75 inches you can increase your cubes to 376c.i. Open your exhaust ports from 1.25 to 1.75 and let'r rip. Seriously though, increase your compression. I've seen 300's with 13:1 compression so don't be afraid to raise it substantially.

At this point your pushing more cubes than a stock Windsor (really 352c.i.) and with the right stuff your pushing 500 to 575hp. Even though a Windsor can push 800hp, a 300 6 will PULL. I've seen these 6 cyl fully decked out on the edge of 500ft-lb of torque. As crazy as that sounds, it's not hard to achieve. You just have to know what your doing. Won't that be funny when a 6 cyl is pulling more weight than your buddies V8!


If you have money, then go for it. Honestly though, your better off just swapping it with a 351W. It can be time consuming but there are more available parts and are widely used. Even when these 6's are built, you can still run them to 300k miles without serious issues. Remember though, performance comes with the loss of fuel economy, so watch what you do if you are going to build this. Most 300's though I believe range between 165/175 to 250hp.

 

[mustangGT90210]

They can really be built. As far as I know the max overbore you can safely go is 60 over (I wouldn't even go that far, maybe 40 over), pushing the cubes to 309. You can increase the stroke to 4.375 inches pushing cubes to 338c.i. If you going to stroke it though, better off saving some cash and getting a turbo.


Next step would be to increase compression. I think for your F150 your only getting an 8:5:1 to 8:8:1 ratio. Anywhere in there. I know '85's had relatively low compression (as with 351W's from 1975 and up) so I can't imagine a few years making much of a difference.

Different high performance pistons would be good too, as well as a new cam. Headers and intake, a bigger carb (if yours is carbed, some are Fuel Injected) and new heads. Depending on what you get your hp range could be between 300 and 500. That's up to you. Also, get used to porting. Bigger valves would be good, as well as a new ignition system to power it.

If you do a 100 overbore (sleeves) and stroke it to 4.75 inches you can increase your cubes to 376c.i. Open your exhaust ports from 1.25 to 1.75 and let'r rip. Seriously though, increase your compression. I've seen 300's with 13:1 compression so don't be afraid to raise it substantially.

At this point your pushing more cubes than a stock Windsor (really 352c.i.) and with the right stuff your pushing 500 to 575hp. Even though a Windsor can push 800hp, a 300 6 will PULL. I've seen these 6 cyl fully decked out on the edge of 500ft-lb of torque. As crazy as that sounds, it's not hard to achieve. You just have to know what your doing. Won't that be funny when a 6 cyl is pulling more weight than your buddies V8!


If you have money, then go for it. Honestly though, your better off just swapping it with a 351W. It can be time consuming but there are more available parts and are widely used. Even when these 6's are built, you can still run them to 300k miles without serious issues. Remember though, performance comes with the loss of fuel economy, so watch what you do if you are going to build this. Most 300's though I believe range between 165/175 to 250hp.

I just saved that post. You are my hero for letting me in on that secret! I'd rather keep it a 6 just because of the torque, better truck engine. And after hearing that it can be massively built, I'm drooling.


And as far as mods go, I can't seem to keep away from the front of this truck. Black grille, HIDs, Leveling kit, and the newest addition:

I think it's a really classy look it gives off, and brings more content to the a front end that used to be really boring on the eyes

Just for the record, the LED on the left isn't actually dimmer than the others, my cell cam isn't the best

 

[Slash]

I just saved that post. You are my hero for letting me in on that secret! I'd rather keep it a 6 just because of the torque, better truck engine. And after hearing that it can be massively built, I'm drooling.


And as far as mods go, I can't seem to keep away from the front of this truck. Black grille, HIDs, Leveling kit, and the newest addition:

I think it's a really classy look it gives off, and brings more content to the a front end that used to be really boring on the eyes

Just for the record, the LED on the left isn't actually dimmer than the others, my cell cam isn't the best

I actually had a buddy who had a built 6 and used it for rally racing. So I knew they could put out some power. So np bro just helping out.


Those lights look sweet. Nice job!




I just pulled this off a website so I'm not sure if it will work. Most people say it's great but hey whatever lol.

Here:

Just simply installing an Offenhauser "C" or "DP" Intake (e-Bay $75.00-$200.00) w/ a 390 4V (e-Bay $9.95 rebuildable core-$400.00 comp. carb.), a Header (e-Bay $50-$175.00) will vastly improve Throttle response & kick in a 25% minimum of hp.
Then to take it a step further a Minimal P&P w/ oversized valves w/ stronger springs & a 3-angle grind w/ ARP conectors/bolts/nuts & if you so desire you can install a Comp Cam for that little extra Omph.
You can even cheat a tick & find a 240 head to do that all to by replacing the 300 head w/ it & up the compression as well as the previous mentioned performance tips.



See if that helps out. I will tell you though, the 6 when it was built, was built for performance. Then Ford dumbed it down to meet regulations and cheapen prices. HP gains for each little thing should come anywhere between a 5-10% gain EVERY TIME.

 

[Joey D]

Do the LED's blink amber when you turn on the indicators? I know the law can get grumpy about that in certain states. I love the look of LED's though, I'm starting to get my bulbs switched over.

Oh and if you plan on doing the tails be sure and use red LED's, if you use white the output isn't nearly as good and can be worse then halogen bulbs.

For further LED shopping I recommend www.v-leds.com, they have a great selection and pretty high quality stuff.

 

[mustangGT90210]

I actually had a buddy who had a built 6 and used it for rally racing. So I knew they could put out some power. So np bro just helping out.


Those lights look sweet. Nice job!




I just pulled this off a website so I'm not sure if it will work. Most people say it's great but hey whatever lol.

Here:

Just simply installing an Offenhauser "C" or "DP" Intake (e-Bay $75.00-$200.00) w/ a 390 4V (e-Bay $9.95 rebuildable core-$400.00 comp. carb.), a Header (e-Bay $50-$175.00) will vastly improve Throttle response & kick in a 25% minimum of hp.
Then to take it a step further a Minimal P&P w/ oversized valves w/ stronger springs & a 3-angle grind w/ ARP conectors/bolts/nuts & if you so desire you can install a Comp Cam for that little extra Omph.
You can even cheat a tick & find a 240 head to do that all to by replacing the 300 head w/ it & up the compression as well as the previous mentioned performance tips.



See if that helps out. I will tell you though, the 6 when it was built, was built for performance. Then Ford dumbed it down to meet regulations and cheapen prices. HP gains for each little thing should come anywhere between a 5-10% gain EVERY TIME.

I gotta swap to carb to run those kind of mods sadly. My truck is speed density and can't even take a full intake without leaning out to the point of near destruction

Definately have the seed planted now though, wish I wasn't a broke ass college student!

Do the LED's blink amber when you turn on the indicators? I know the law can get grumpy about that in certain states. I love the look of LED's though, I'm starting to get my bulbs switched over.

Oh and if you plan on doing the tails be sure and use red LED's, if you use white the output isn't nearly as good and can be worse then halogen bulbs.

For further LED shopping I recommend www.v-leds.com, they have a great selection and pretty high quality stuff.

They are always solid, no blinking when they're on.

I had originally wanted the 2 on the left and 2 on the right to blink with the blinkers, and the middle one be solid all the time. I couldn't think of a way to wire that up because of how my running lights work. The bulb in the turn signal housing is a dual filament, and the running light is always on, then the blinker is brighter and blinks. So the way I saw it I could either have run them as blinkers, or running lights, because LEDs aren't dual filament equivalents.

Now, if you can think of a way I'm missing to the get the things to blink AND work as running lights, I'm in!

I'm thinking about putting LED bulbs in the tails and front blinkers, but I just don't want them to not full out the whole housing. I've seen 'em where all you see is just the light bulb and it doesn't even reflect in the housing.

 

[Slash]

I gotta swap to carb to run those kind of mods sadly. My truck is speed density and can't even take a full intake without leaning out to the point of near destruction

Definately have the seed planted now though, wish I wasn't a broke ass college student!

They are always solid, no blinking when they're on.

I had originally wanted the 2 on the left and 2 on the right to blink with the blinkers, and the middle one be solid all the time. I couldn't think of a way to wire that up because of how my running lights work. The bulb in the turn signal housing is a dual filament, and the running light is always on, then the blinker is brighter and blinks. So the way I saw it I could either have run them as blinkers, or running lights, because LEDs aren't dual filament equivalents.

Now, if you can think of a way I'm missing to the get the things to blink AND work as running lights, I'm in!

I'm thinking about putting LED bulbs in the tails and front blinkers, but I just don't want them to not full out the whole housing. I've seen 'em where all you see is just the light bulb and it doesn't even reflect in the housing.

So you are running fuel injected. Personally I like carbs over FI but thats just me considering you can do more (I think). If you are going to swap over to carbed be prepared for a time consuming task.

 

[Joey D]

They are always solid, no blinking when they're on.

I had originally wanted the 2 on the left and 2 on the right to blink with the blinkers, and the middle one be solid all the time. I couldn't think of a way to wire that up because of how my running lights work. The bulb in the turn signal housing is a dual filament, and the running light is always on, then the blinker is brighter and blinks. So the way I saw it I could either have run them as blinkers, or running lights, because LEDs aren't dual filament equivalents.

Now, if you can think of a way I'm missing to the get the things to blink AND work as running lights, I'm in!

I'm thinking about putting LED bulbs in the tails and front blinkers, but I just don't want them to not full out the whole housing. I've seen 'em where all you see is just the light bulb and it doesn't even reflect in the housing.

Look at the Switchback bulbs on this page, they are the equivalent of dual filament's.

http://autolumination.com/switchback.html

 

[mustangGT90210]

Look at the Switchback bulbs on this page, they are the equivalent of dual filament's.

http://autolumination.com/switchback.html

Nice! Price is a lot too expensive to worry about right now though

So you are running fuel injected. Personally I like carbs over FI but thats just me considering you can do more (I think). If you are going to swap over to carbed be prepared for a time consuming task.

I'm so undecided on keeping it as a mostly original, slow resto, or go restomod on it. If it's goin' restomod it'll get carbed

 

[Sniffs]

restomod on an 80's? you guys just made me feel old!

 

[Slash]

Nice! Price is a lot too expensive to worry about right now though


I'm so undecided on keeping it as a mostly original, slow resto, or go restomod on it. If it's goin' restomod it'll get carbed

Mostly original is cool, but really building it would be the way to go. You'd get much more use out of it without having to worry. Pretty much anything over 385ft-lb of torque you can pull a house down. I'm assuming your's is a 1/2 ton truck. I'd consider buying more leaf springs in the rear so you can load up more weight. You may never use it but it's good to have just in case. We've done it, and it's a 3/4 ton loaded with 1 1/2 tons lol.

 

[Sniffs]

actually, I agree with that on general purpose. beef the leaves and the shocks. there never seems to be enough suspension on some trucks. also, I'd throw in an anti-roll if you DO beef the power any, they hop bad enough as it is.

 

[mustangGT90210]

actually, I agree with that on general purpose. beef the leaves and the shocks. there never seems to be enough suspension on some trucks. also, I'd throw in an anti-roll if you DO beef the power any, they hop bad enough as it is.

Anti-roll? **** I get wheel hop stock, I need some ladder bars if I up the power. The LSD doesn't help with the hop, but I love it off road, saves me a lot

 

[mustangGT90210]

Year Two in Review​

As of 2 days ago, I've now had this truck for 2 years and 23k miles. She's still running perfectly, shifting smooth, and has been extremely reliable. I still love this thing, and it's really starting to like me more too Since last year, the amount of actual maintenence I've had to do is pretty small. Starter solenoid, tune up, trans fluid change and oil changes. And then that pesky 🤬 pitman arm seal...

As it stands now, I'm looking to get ol' Fiona out of her daily driver role and start some restoration on her. I'm in college now and the gas cost of a lifted F150 isn't cheap

Couple before and afters

 

[Slash]

Looks great. Add a 3 inch lift and your good to go!

 

[mustangGT90210]

In this truck's future is a 4 inch lift and 35s. That or just some 33's stuffed into the wheel wells as it sits. I'm all about stance

 

[Slash]

3 inch lift is the best with 33's, otherwise you'll have steering issues with any life bigger. That's when you put the bigger tires on lol. Looks good though. Take off the rear wheel caps though, it will make your truck look even more badass =P

 

[JCE]

I dig what you've done so far. 👍

 

[mustangGT90210]

3 inch lift is the best with 33's, otherwise you'll have steering issues with any life bigger. That's when you put the bigger tires on lol. Looks good though. Take off the rear wheel caps though, it will make your truck look even more badass =P

33s on my height truck, but shortbed.

I kinda like the center caps in all the wheels. Looks really incomplete without them. I had to run without the backs for 8 months while I searched for a new non bent/rusted wheel. And then I faked up a 4 inch lift

I dig what you've done so far. 👍

Thanks man 👍

 

[Slash]

On the shortbed the missing caps look great. On the other one though it looks kind of blegh now that I've seen it. One more thing for the wheel caps, you should put a chrome or silver metallica thing with an inch or less of space around the cap for an added effect. Looks great on old Ford's. If I can find some examples I'll post 'em.


Heres the cap. There's another silver pieces that locks in with the wheel lugs when you put them on and sit about an inch off the edge of the caps.

FOUND EM




http://www.jegs.com/i/American-Racing/286/1425002/10002/-1



'Cept outs aren't rounded at the top, they go straight. The 3rd picture shows a hollow inside, it's like tthis but actually sits around the cap iteslf.



Here is that piece I'm talking about:

The cap sit inside this sleeve.

 

[mustangGT90210]

Looks like about the same look I've got going on now. I wish I could just widen my current wheels honestly.

Whatever I do wheelwise, I'm keeping the chrome caps, and keeping all 4 on the truck. Untill I 4x4 convert it of course