Mustang's F150 thread - It's got little glowy things on the roof! :D

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I happen to have some of the clearcoat right now, I'm gonna try it. I didn't think to clear them because I've been running just straight satin black spray for the past year without a single scratch or chip. And you guys have seen the crap this truck drives through
 
All it needs now is a bigger set of tires lol. What size are those current rims? They look like 16's.
 
slashfan7964
All it needs now is a bigger set of tires lol. What size are those current rims? They look like 16's.
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They're the stock 15s. The paint on there creates an illusion to make them bigger :)

Tires are 31x10.50R15LT. Perfect size for the truck. When they finally wear out though I'm steppin it up to 32x11.50 and I'll be set
 
mustangGT90210
They're the stock 15s. The paint on there creates an illusion to make them bigger :)

Tires are 31x10.50R15LT. Perfect size for the truck. When they finally wear out though I'm steppin it up to 32x11.50 and I'll be set
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2 more inches and you can fit 33's. I kow F250's had stock 16's so I knew they were either 15 or 16's. Maybe in the future =P
 
slashfan7964
2 more inches and you can fit 33's. I kow F250's had stock 16's so I knew they were either 15 or 16's. Maybe in the future =P
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I could 33's right now. The problem is I don't have the gears to turn them. I've got a 3.08 rear, and I'd want 1 4.10 for 33s
 
mustangGT90210
I could 33's right now. The problem is I don't have the gears to turn them. I've got a 3.08 rear, and I'd want 1 4.10 for 33s
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Woudn't they rub? Maybe not but I always thought they did. You can turn them with a 3.08...At least I think you can. 4.10 will definitely work but I'm pretty sure it'll turn with a 3.08 rear. What transmission do you have and what rear end you got? I'm guessing either C4/C5/C6 or possibly an E4OD with either a Dana 60, 8.8, or 10.25 rear, those are F250 setups but they aren't far off from F150's. Depending on your transmission you might be able to get away with it.

EDIT: Never mind, you can't. 31's are largest. Thought you might be able to get away with it but you'll get a huge powerloss. 3.55 might work but that's still pushing it. I know most common setups were 3.08, 3.55, 4.06, and 4.10 so...
 
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slashfan7964
Woudn't they rub? Maybe not but I always thought they did. You can turn them with a 3.08...At least I think you can. 4.10 will definitely work but I'm pretty sure it'll turn with a 3.08 rear. What transmission do you have and what rear end you got? I'm guessing either C4/C5/C6 or possibly an E4OD with either a Dana 60, 8.8, or 10.25 rear, those are F250 setups but they aren't far off from F150's. Depending on your transmission you might be able to get away with it.

EDIT: Never mind, you can't. 31's are largest. Thought you might be able to get away with it but you'll get a huge powerloss. 3.55 might work but that's still pushing it. I know most common setups were 3.08, 3.55, 4.06, and 4.10 so...
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2.73, 3.08, 3.55, for F150s. I have an E4OD, 3.08 rear. I could turn the 33's but I'd have no power and my tranny would hate me. I want 4.10s so I can gain some get up and go, and spin 'em faster in the mud. With 3.08s this truck is a slow boat. I'm talking like pontoon speed. 13ish seconds 0-60, if not slower.

Picked up some new speakers today. Selenium 6.5 inchers. 150w RMS, 400 max, and loud as hellllllllllll. I love them already
 
mustangGT90210
2.73, 3.08, 3.55, for F150s. I have an E4OD, 3.08 rear. I could turn the 33's but I'd have no power and my tranny would hate me. I want 4.10s so I can gain some get up and go, and spin 'em faster in the mud. With 3.08s this truck is a slow boat. I'm talking like pontoon speed. 13ish seconds 0-60, if not slower.

Picked up some new speakers today. Selenium 6.5 inchers. 150w RMS, 400 max, and loud as hellllllllllll. I love them already
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I figured your tranny would hate you lol. 4.10s will work with a L6, had those on ours before we did the first 351W swap. Also have a C6 though, so that probably helped a bit. After (both) 351W swaps we have no problems spinning 33's lol. Hell, we could spin them with the L6 XD, well in mud and wet pavement. They'd squeek on dry road, always had problems with that big 6 though for some reason. Don't forget though, it's a truck. It's not made for speed. It's made for power. That is kind of slow though, I know that with a tad more power and and a few seconds tacked onto that time is what you should hit on the 1/4 mile. Were 3.08's limited slip or were they Dana 60's? I forget...I think 3.55's were limited same with the 4.06 and 4.10's.

If you ever decide to though, I'd recommend doing some kind of engine swaps as I've already told you before. You've got a big 6 cyl, but there is going to come a time where it won't cut it anymore. If your looking for power, get a '69-74 351W or SVO block, any of the rest of the 351's are just smog motors, i.e. raised deck height, bad heads etc. A 460 would be a better option but finding a block is a *****. You can really build a 351 but stock or even just punch out 30 and a set of 302 heads (yes 302 heads, 351 heads are ****, 302 were overall better. Should bolt right up to, I think they had the same pattern) will make great power, probably double what your 6 makes if not more. '69 intake would also help an the ports are larger and allow for better airflow. Not sure if it'll bold up to an E4OD (it should but I don't know). The only other thing is changing out your engine mounts, and you should be set. Pretty much everything else you have installed should work with it.

Now those, are a nice set of speakers.
 
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I have an amazing girlfriend.

She got 2 JBL 10" subs and a new 1000 watt amp, to replace her blown out crappy kickers. Didn't have a use for the old amp. It came in the truck when she bought it with the kickers. So she gave it to me on friday.

After some research, turns out the amp I was given is a 350 watt monoblock amp that was $300 new!

So now that I know it'll push my sub real nice, I'm going to use the mono amp for the sub, and switch the Dual 300w amp I have already over to the new Selenium speakers that will absolutely scream with more power. They're rated for 100w RMS and 400 max.


I'm a happy camper, who just needs a dual amp add on wiring kit, and some window tint :lol:
 
Cheapest loud system ever. After the wiring I'll have a total of $300 into it, for 730 watts. And much nicer sound quality than any factory radio could hope to achieve for even 1000 bucks
 
Having a loud system is an invitation for thieves unfortunately. I would just be careful where you crank it at. I've been a victim of a swiped sound system...it's not fun.
 
Joey D
Having a loud system is an invitation for thieves unfortunately. I would just be careful where you crank it at. I've been a victim of a swiped sound system...it's not fun.
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I always have been careful where it's cranked. Even more so after hearing what happenend to you. I still, 2 years later, have not gotten a lock for my back window, so everything is just kind of there...
 
mustangGT90210
I always have been careful where it's cranked. Even more so after hearing what happenend to you. I still, 2 years later, have not gotten a lock for my back window, so everything is just kind of there...
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Things is a lot of people don't know that window opens on those older trucks because the slot for your fingers is hidden behind the black strip connecting the two windows. But a lot of people also know that they do, but be careful otherwise.
 
You can see a gap between the 2 panes of glass, it's missing a piece...

Sold the Seleniums at 2pm, listed them at noon. Sold for as much as I paid, but kept the box that came with them.

Hooked em to my amp at 10am and hated how they sounded. Loudness was good, but the range on them was totally wrong for what I needed. They were low-mids instead of high mids. Oh well. I'm going to find some Inifinity Kappa door speakers, amplify those, and then put my pioneers in the selenium box behind the seat. Get all the stupid loud, but all the sound quality too
 
No ****! :lol:

I can't get it off the trucks at the yard, and it hasn't been an issue yet......
 
Well I'd get it soon. That piece is a ***** to replace anyways. I'd just replace the whole window but it's probably not worth it. With your system though I woulnd't risk it and would fix that immediatly.
 
I've been meaning to get it fixed for over 2 years now. It just never gets big on the list because everything stays hidden
 
Finally decided to get a pic of the light output on my aux reverse lights. Did I go overboard a little? Hell no! These are soo not brighter than most low beam headlights... :scared:

efrqcj.jpg
 
I managed the same thing, 'cept there is just one light haha.
 
Alright guys, lemme pick your brains here.

About a month ago, my truck just decided that the torque converter doesn't want to lock up until the truck warms up. It's really annoying, and even more so because it was fine one day, get in the next day and the TC wouldn't lock till it warmed. Hasn't gone back to normal since. Any ideas what this could be? I've got almost 170k on the motor/tranny so I'm just hoping it's not starting to go. Fresh fluid and filter on the tranny too
 
Does your truck hesitate when you shift into reverse or drive? A bit of hesitation into reverse is normal for all older Fords, but excessive hesitation into reverse or drive means that your transmission is just starting to give out.
 
It goes into gear the same as it has the whole time I've had it, 30,000 miles
 
You should have nothing to worry about then unless the truck suddenly starts hesitating into reverse/drive or dropping out of gear at a stop sign. My car's (1999 Mercury Sable) torque converter also doesn't lock until the engine warms up slightly when the ambient temperature is cool. However, when it's warm out, the torque converter locks immediately.
 
Thats good to hear! It locks within 5 miles, just an annoyance because it never did it until one day it's like a switch just flicked and now it acts like this. If I didn't have straight pipes it might not be so annoying, when its unlocked my RPM's are in the drone zone
 
Transmission slip test:

1. Make sure to have good traction surface (freshly paved or good dry surface)
2. Place vehicle in nuetral
3. Bring engin up around 5000 RPM
4. Slip it into gear

Post up your results for diagnosis.
 
nitrorustler41
Transmission slip test:

1. Make sure to have good traction surface (freshly paved or good dry surface)
2. Place vehicle in nuetral
3. Bring engin up around 5000 RPM
4. Slip it into gear

Post up your results for diagnosis.
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My engine redlines at 4000RPM. And can this damage it?

My symptoms are only within 5-10 minutes of first driving. After that it's all good...
 
mustangGT90210
My engine redlines at 4000RPM. And can this damage it?

My symptoms are only within 5-10 minutes of first driving. After that it's all good...
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Redlines at 4000? Kinda low for that 6, I had ours at 6000 once... Although I know a lot of Fords redline at 4k but that seems kinda low...
 

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