My New 1996 Mx-5 Miata - 2017 Dixie Championship Tour

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Did you ever get the rubber gasket at the base of the fuel filler hose taken care of? I haven't had any issues with that end of the fuel tank and don't know of a name for the gasket, but I can tell you that it's NA75-42-243A:
2e295ec1d392b9abba0b6d321c3434b0.png

Best of luck with the project, the cars are a great deal of fun and you should already have the 1839 under the hood making it more fun still.
 
TexRex
Did you ever get the rubber gasket at the base of the fuel filler hose taken care of? I haven't had any issues with that end of the fuel tank and don't know of a name for the gasket, but I can tell you that it's NA75-42-243A:
2e295ec1d392b9abba0b6d321c3434b0.png

Best of luck with the project, the cars are a great deal of fun and you should already have the 1839 under the hood making it more fun still.
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Thanks, where did you find this image?
I found it was the tube itself. I have a temporary fix and will properly correct the problem very soon.

Also, finally got time for a bit longer of a drive. What I found is:

The bad:
1st gear is not shifting smoothly. The rest are fine.
I need new engine mounts at some point in time. Under load ( moderate acceleration ) 3rd gear is more to the left than it should be.
I already knew this but this car really needs to be over 3,900 RPMs to get any acceleration.
Needs a taller 5th gear if I wanted to do a road trips often ( more of a Miata in general problem ).

The good:
When in the power band it sounds great and pulls ( accelerates ) about as hard as I would want... without having to worry about attracting unwanted attention.
The car tracks straight as an arrow at speed :)
After looking at the suspension I think this car has had new shocks. Ride quality is excellent and they look newer than other components.
 
carracerptp
Thanks, where did you find this image?
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The NA75 stamped into the gasket is generic Mazda rubber nomenclature but knowing that it was attached to the fuel tank, I simply looked up 'miata fuel hose' in a Bing image search with hopes of finding a schematic drawing that would provide a good enough look at the components to find the one in question--and with it the rest of the part number.
Regarding first gear, is it spinning smoothly once engaged and only clunky on the downshift or does the gear feel bad in general? It's hard to do too much harm to the teeth with a stock engine but the syncros could be bad, or given the issues with third, it could be as simple as an issue with the action as the engine winds down under clutch. Then again, was gear oil part of the fluid changes?
 
TexRex
The NA75 stamped into the gasket is generic Mazda rubber nomenclature but knowing that it was attached to the fuel tank, I simply looked up 'miata fuel hose' in a Bing image search with hopes of finding a schematic drawing that would provide a good enough look at the components to find the one in question--and with it the rest of the part number.
Regarding first gear, is it spinning smoothly once engaged and only clunky on the downshift or does the gear feel bad in general? It's hard to do too much harm to the teeth with a stock engine but the syncros could be bad, or given the issues with third, it could be as simple as an issue with the action as the engine winds down under clutch. Then again, was gear oil part of the fluid changes?
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"bad in general" even from a dead stop in neutral it won't slide in without some shaking or force. I never thought about gear oil. How did I miss that? Thanks I'll figure out what I need ( I guess a hand pump ) and do that. So glad I live within 5 mins ot NAPA Auto Parts :lol:
 
carracerptp
"bad in general" even from a dead stop in neutral it won't slide in without some shaking or force. I never thought about gear oil. How did I miss that? Thanks I'll figure out what I need ( I guess a hand pump ) and do that. So glad I live within 5 mins ot NAPA Auto Parts :lol:
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http://www.ehow.com/how_6376059_change-transmission-fluid-1996-miata.html
I'd also recommend buying a cheap but decent magnet and giving it a swim through the drained fluid, crossing your fingers you don't attract too terribly much. A coffee filter and an appropriately sized funnel also works but takes a bit of time.
 
Well there ya go. Good luck and fingers crossed it's relatively creen.
 
TexRex
Well there ya go. Good luck and fingers crossed it's relatively creen.
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After a bit of time under and above the gear oil is all replaced. Thanks for suggesting that gear oil :up:

It's so much better now, not 100% in 1st, but a lot smoother. 1st gear to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears feels flawless. Only when getting back from 2nd into 1st is it still a problem.

The oil in the trans didn't look horrible ( needed replacing though ) but the oil around the gear selector was in terrible condition. I don't think that had ever been changed. I figure that was my main problem. I used synthetic oil so that may also have contributed to the improvement.
 
The car's nearing 20 years old (mine waved 20 goodbye a while back) and there are "incidentals" that people just don't bother with until they have a problem. All of the various lubricated or bushed parts that don't necessarily have to do with running the car but affect its overall performanceout in the world.
Your 2-1 shift could be an indication of internal failure (but don't fret, the likely culprit is the synchro that winds the free gear up for engagement and these see so much abuse in traffic that they just go and can bereplaced by someone competent) or it could be an issue of driveline flex. Check out your mounts and look for cracking or signs of rubbing on the seated area. Also consider checking out Prothane for replacements, especially if you would like to run it at local track days--you were motivated to buy it by a dang racing game, so this seems like a logical assumption.
There's a reason Miatas are the most tracked production car and when properly maintained they can pack a whole helluva lot of fun in that little package.
 
TexRex
The car's nearing 20 years old (mine waved 20 goodbye a while back) and there are "incidentals" that people just don't bother with until they have a problem. All of the various lubricated or bushed parts that don't necessarily have to do with running the car but affect its overall performanceout in the world.
Your 2-1 shift could be an indication of internal failure (but don't fret, the likely culprit is the synchro that winds the free gear up for engagement and these see so much abuse in traffic that they just go and can bereplaced by someone competent) or it could be an issue of driveline flex. Check out your mounts and look for cracking or signs of rubbing on the seated area. Also consider checking out Prothane for replacements, especially if you would like to run it at local track days--you were motivated to buy it by a dang racing game, so this seems like a logical assumption.
There's a reason Miatas are the most tracked production car and when properly maintained they can pack a whole helluva lot of fun in that little package.
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I won't be taking it to a road course anytime soon but I will be learning how to autocross with it.

Right now I just want to get the car sorted and baselined (maintenance and wear parts ).
 
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Some news on the car.

First, I think I finally have driving a manual down. I no longer think about it, and as long as I don't get sloppy with the clutch I'm fine. And even then it's just a bit of a stutter - no more random hopping, jumping.

...But I finally did a proper gear-grinding shift. I was pulling off a light and felt something odd when I changed into second gear. Then when I tried to get into third, the shifter-knob cracked, causing it to not quite put it in gear, and man did it make a noise. Startled the heck out of me. I actually pulled off in a parking lot to find out what went wrong. So that's one more thing I need to buy.

Here's some pictures and a slightly longer audio clip (I did not put the exhaust on).

IMG_7355.jpg IMG_7356.jpg IMG_7343.jpg IMG_7354.jpg IMG_7327.jpg IMG_7331.jpg IMG_7337.jpg IMG_7322.jpgIMG_7316_edit.jpg

 
I'd think a tough 2-1 shift is just because it's not a car that likes changing from second to first while moving in general. I don't know what driver's ed is like in the U.S. but in the U.K. you're advised to only ever select first at a complete standstill.

Can't remember quite what the gearbox on my old MX-5 was like for such a shift, but I do remember 1st being pretty recalcitrant when the oil was cold. After that it was much smoother.

The alternative to smooth out a second-to-first shift is probably just to double de-clutch as you might on a car with no synchromesh. From second, clutch, into neutral, clutch again, and into first. A little throttle blip while passing through neutral keeps everything smooth.

Wouldn't worry about the odd grinding shift now and then either, if it was entirely your own fault. Obviously I'd not advise graunching gears regularly but if it was just you mis-shifting and not the car doing it because something is broken, just chalk it up to experience. I've graunched gears at least once in every car I've owned and stalled most of them - just part of the process of getting used to something unfamiliar.
 
The later models with the 1839 shouldn't be as bad as the early ones in terms of shifting into 1st while moving as long as you've dropped low enough in 2nd. Hit the nail on the nose about shifting it like a non-synchro car though. The car's certainly sounding good save for that sputter as you lift; nothing ominous, just one of those things that comes with the car.

Oh and here's one of the recommended videos:



:lol:
 
homeforsummer
I'd think a tough 2-1 shift is just because it's not a car that likes changing from second to first while moving in general. I don't know what driver's ed is like in the U.S. but in the U.K. you're advised to only ever select first at a complete standstill.

Can't remember quite what the gearbox on my old MX-5 was like for such a shift, but I do remember 1st being pretty recalcitrant when the oil was cold. After that it was much smoother.

The alternative to smooth out a second-to-first shift is probably just to double de-clutch as you might on a car with no synchromesh. From second, clutch, into neutral, clutch again, and into first. A little throttle blip while passing through neutral keeps everything smooth.

Wouldn't worry about the odd grinding shift now and then either, if it was entirely your own fault. Obviously I'd not advise graunching gears regularly but if it was just you mis-shifting and not the car doing it because something is broken, just chalk it up to experience. I've graunched gears at least once in every car I've owned and stalled most of them - just part of the process of getting used to something unfamiliar.
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I'm currently double de-clutching clutching when I need to get into 1st when moving (otherwise it won't go in 75$ of the time ). Thankfully I don't need to do that often. But it is still a rough shift even when I'm at a stand still coming from neutral.

Regarding the gear grinding, it was my miss shift. The shifter knob broke causing it, and my not noticing. Nothing internal related to the transmission.

TexRex
The later models with the 1839 shouldn't be as bad as the early ones in terms of shifting into 1st while moving as long as you've dropped low enough in 2nd. Hit the nail on the nose about shifting it like a non-synchro car though. The car's certainly sounding good save for that sputter as you lift; nothing ominous, just one of those things that comes with the car.

Oh and here's one of the recommended videos:



:lol:
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:lol: Not sure how it gets those videos as related.

EDIT:

Some video of me driving ( no audio ). It's funny watching myself drive ( never seen it before ), 5 MPH under the speed limit in a straight line, the camera van wasn't giving me much to work with ;)

 
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OK, update, lots of bad news.

The rear shock started singing like a small bird intermittently over certain bumps.

And now the clutch pedal won't disengage the clutch. I have replaced the slave and that didn't help. now I'm trying the clutch master cylinder. If that fails I'm going to pull the engine and find out what is wrong with it. I'll also give the engine a much needed cleaning / refresh.
 
carracerptp
OK, update, lots of bad news.
And now the clutch pedal won't disengage the clutch. I have replaced the slave and that didn't help. now I'm trying the clutch master cylinder. If that fails I'm going to pull the engine and find out what is wrong with it. I'll also give the engine a much needed cleaning / refresh.
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Same happened with mine, just replaced the master. I also changed the rubber clutch lines to stainless and added Motul 5.1 fluid. Clutch feels awesome now.
 
Heldenzeit
Same happened with mine, just replaced the master. I also changed the rubber clutch lines to stainless and added Motul 5.1 fluid. Clutch feels awesome now.
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Did you get a rebuild kit or just get a new one?
 
OK, I really wanted my car working today so I just ran down to AutoZone and got the parts.

Clutch is working fine :) :) . Now on to the suspension!
 
R1600Turbo
Adjust your headlight covers! :p
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First, thanks! I didn't know how easy that was to fix until I searched for it on google. Looks so much better now. So much so I ran down to the beach and got some pictures!

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I haven't done much to the car ( Still on the old timing belt ) but now I have a week or so of free time so I can get down to business.

The main things are:

New timing belt / water pump / valve cover gasket / bolts for good measure.

New front and rear main seals. First it was only the valve cover gasket and the front seal with a slight leak, now it is a 'leak'. Based on the looks of it the rear main seal is failing. The rear seal will be a pain. I may just leave it until I replace the clutch.

New TIRES!!! I keep putting this off but I can't seem to decide what to get. One part of me thinks get the best I can afford. The other part says, Why? I want to autocross next month but it's not like I'm going to care how fast I go. I wouldn't mind a little 'less' grip than the better tires considering the HP this car has.

New or fix rear shock(s), they aren't leaking and are working great but one is making a noise! I'm not sure what part of the shock is squeaking / chirping.

New right rear hub ( somehow someone before me damaged it, not the bearing ).

Cosmetic:

Wheel paint - just a light gray to make them look new.

New seats - not sure this fits in the budget.

OEM shifter knob - I think this is one:
http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/products/KNOB--CHANGE-LEVER/1898709/M52317520.html
I'm going to call and verify.

And the rest of the pictures:
IMG_7607.jpg IMG_7610.jpg IMG_7611.jpg IMG_7604.jpg
 
Yeah simple fix that a lot of people overlook. They usually get that way when people are working under the hood and lean on them.
 
OK, I have a date for the next "local" autocross ( I can't believe I didn't know about them after search before, many times ). It's next month but hey I got stuff to fix.

So all that is left is the rear stud, brake disks all around, and fix an annoying handbrake. Can't figure out why it's not working, the lever moves when the cable is pulled but the pads are 100% not moving.

5MN0IxB.jpg


Also I'm trying to figure out heal toe. I don't know why it's so much easier ACs or even in iRacing. The pedals are just in the wrong place in this car for me. I even got smaller shoes and I still can't get my feet right.
 
carracerptp
Also I'm trying to figure out heal toe. I don't know why it's so much easier ACs or even in iRacing. The pedals are just in the wrong place in this car for me. I even got smaller shoes and I still can't get my feet right.
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What are struggling with exactly? Are you missing the throttle pedal when you go for the blip? Or a different problem?

Foot/seating position makes a big difference to how easy it is.
 
FordMKIVJ5
What are struggling with exactly? Are you missing the throttle pedal when you go for the blip? Or a different problem?

Foot/seating position makes a big difference to how easy it is.
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Most of the time yes, I'm missing the pedal. And even when I do hit the pedal I'm at such a shallow angle my ankle doesn't have much room to modulate it with accuracy. the steering wheel is very close to my thigh so I can't adjust for a better angle. I can rev match just fine ( on a non braking down shift ) so I think I know how much throttle to give it.

I think I can change how I set my foot on the brake a little. Still, I just need more time to build up better control of my ankle at that odd angle I need to place it in.
 
carracerptp
So all that is left is the rear stud, brake disks all around, and fix an annoying handbrake. Can't figure out why it's not working, the lever moves when the cable is pulled but the pads are 100% not moving.
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How much play is in the handbrake lever? If there's a lot of play in it then it might be the cable that's not tight enough to pull the pads. It could also be the mechanism in the caliper (I think that's the right phrase...:boggled:) that's seized up and isn't letting the pads move.
 
Katiegan
How much play is in the handbrake lever? If there's a lot of play in it then it might be the cable that's not tight enough to pull the pads. It could also be the mechanism in the caliper (I think that's the right phrase...:boggled:) that's seized up and isn't letting the pads move.
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No play that I can see or feel. I think it is that mechanism but I want to be sure before I start fixing / replacing it.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
carracerptp
Most of the time yes, I'm missing the pedal. And even when I do hit the pedal I'm at such a shallow angle my ankle doesn't have much room to modulate it with accuracy. the steering wheel is very close to my thigh so I can't adjust for a better angle. I can rev match just fine ( on a non braking down shift ) so I think I know how much throttle to give it.

I think I can change how I set my foot on the brake a little. Still, I just need more time to build up better control of my ankle at that odd angle I need to place it in.
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I've never seen an MX-5/Miata footwell, so I can't comment on the pedal set, but it does sound like what everyone goes through when starting. I know that I was missing the pedal a lot when I first started.

I just kept practising and watching lots of pedal cams on Youtube (:lol:) and eventually it just clicked.
 
I'm only an amateur, but:
For me heal-toe'ing/tripple-footing is like Mr. Miagy (sp?) said, "Left side: fine. Right side: fine. Middle of road: squash."
You either heal-toe all the time (illegal where I live) or you **** up alot. If you don't do it all the time then when in a panic / in a critical situation you'll revert to normal or, worse, hesitate between the two.

As a US Marine I've learned what you practice you execute. If you use normal pedal work most of the time and only heal-toe "while practicing" then you'll only confuse yourself.

Only my 0.02$. I welcome all comments.
 
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