New question;How much will body rigidity degrade?

[budious]

I always suspected it was based on a logarithmic and modeled a theoretical equation that would perform such a task. I have no idea if mine is anywhere close but it is in the links in my signature with examples of chassis degrading fairly quickly when the car is new or recently reset by GT Auto service, and then tapering off and the degradation slows as the mileage accumulates.

* Chassis Rigidity Factor = (1.00 - (LN(DLR) / 100) + (CR))
o CR (chassis reinforcement) is a conditional variable; if chassis reinforcement installed than equal to .1, else .0
o DLR (distance from last reset) represents mileage since GT Auto chassis service.
o Likely that there is another degree of variation in permanent chassis degradation due to overall that cannot be repaired by GT Auto. Perhaps (LN(Mileage) / 1000) should be in there as well.

Examples:


Chassis Condition of 96% at 50 miles:
= 1.00 - (LN(50)/100) + .0
= 1.00 - 0.0391202300543 + .0
= 0.960879769946
= ~ 96%

 

[Nismo34]

I used to have an R33 and all I would use it for is doing laps of the Nurburgring. After about 300-400km, I refreshed the chassis and could notice a huge change. The car was a lot more stable through corners, the handling was more responsive and it wasnt as prone understeer.

 

[Anathema]

I've never noticed the effect... and then the other day I bought the Nissan #1 Pennzoil Skyline ('99? '00?) from the UCD.

Driving it around Daytona Road Course I could actually tell that the chassis was gone. It felt really... twisty! I did the chassis overhaul and it was much much better.

There IS a chassis degradation effect that DOES occur, mainly with almost any car from the UCD, but sometimes if you get too much mileage on a car it does occur. Since I don't have a PS3, but play on my friend's (he's garbage at it; I've done most of the work throughout the game.) I've noticed this.

BTW the Nissan #1 Pennzoil Skyline is a '99 car.

 

[claythrow]

I've never noticed the effect... and then the other day I bought the Nissan #1 Pennzoil Skyline ('99? '00?) from the UCD.

Driving it around Daytona Road Course I could actually tell that the chassis was gone. It felt really... twisty! I did the chassis overhaul and it was much much better.

I have other race cars on a higher mileage that don't seem so bad so I guess the answer to the OP is this; when it needs the chassis overhaul then you'll know

I've noticed this too....I can't remember what car but it felt weird so I did the chassis restore and it was back to normal. So I guess if you don't notice it, it probably doesn't need it.

 

[watermelon punch]

Maybe I'm just sensitive, but in some cars - particularly antiques and particularly high performance cars, I notice a difference!!

Even the one car I've been using most to grind the k-cup seasonal eventually started acting a tad weird, and when I rebuilt the chassis, my times went way up.

I'm a very inexperienced driver... and I tune cars very carefully to get the best handling for *ME*.
So it could be the less experienced a driver you are, and the more you tune your car to suit your driving, the more you notice small changes. ??

My bf is a MUCH better more experienced video game racer than I am. And he says his high-end race cars become completely undrivable if he just keeps using them & using them. In one race car (maybe an older year? not sure which one), he said that he noticed a bit of a difference in handling just from the 1st race in a championship to the last race in a championship.

And believe me, crashing, bumping, and rolling & whatnot definitely impacts the chassis in the game.
I experimented with this... on a fully modified Nissan Be-1 (which is still low hp when fully upgraded). I did the chassis restoration. Drove a race clean with no bumping other cars or knocks against anything. I went back to GT Auto - the chassis restoration was NOT available. I drove it a few times in an 80s seasonal race (to get credits). After a few races the chassis restoration was available, I did the chassis restore. I then went immediately into a race and DELIBERATELY smashed into another car during the race. Went back to GT Auto, and lo & behold, the chassis restoration was available after just one race... presumably because I had an accident.

So it's possible if you take even an old car or a high-end car into races where you can easily beat the AIs, say, and never have an accident, and never have to really push the car or take risks... then you may never need the chassis restoration.
But if you're clumsy, bump things, have crashes, etc... then you're going to need chassis restoration more.

Just my experience.

 

[phil bell]

My times have dropped by ~tenths around rome circuit but I do notice the car is "looser" as mentioned few post's back.Thanks for sharing your experiences all.

 

[Shmorgusborg]

I've done so much damage to my FGT before over thousands of miles of racing that I remember hitting a wall on Nuburgring and I couldn't drive straight anymore. If I let go of the stick, assuming it would drive straight while I accelerated, I would turn drastically to the left which forced me to counter that by holding the stick to the right and it made it extremely hard to turn right on a hard hairpin, I was forced to lock the brakes and force the back end out from under me to make those right turns. Maybe it was a fluke thing, but I've done enough damage to make it almost non driveable.

 

[canderson19]

I have 30,000 miles on one car. I usually do chasis rebuilds around every 6,000 miles, to help with rigitity. However it really depends on your driving ability (ability to not hit other cars and walls) that really makes a huge difference. I don't think its possible to destroy a car beyond repair, at least not in this game.

 

[watermelon punch]

However it really depends on your driving ability (ability to not hit other cars and walls) that really makes a huge difference

That's not really dependent on driving ability, per se.

If a really terrible driver takes a hugely better, well handling, car (than the competition) into an aspec race, and could get into 1st position, and out ahead easily, they are unlikely to have an accident, or be pummeled by other cars.

If a really good driver takes an "underdog" car choice into a race, they're more likely to NOT have a huge lead, more likely to get bumped by the other cars...

So I'd say your style of play has a bigger difference.

If you have to struggle your way to the front of any race, you're more likely to get hit. And even the BEST driver will have to struggle in much lesser car racing against high performance cars.

For example, my bf used the Falken to win the Professional championship. I'm sure the Falken got more beat up than if he used a better car that he could win more easily using.

Sorry to belabour the point, but I'm really confused by the attitude that you're a better driver if you use a better car. ANYONE is a better driver in a better car. If you can out mechanical your opponents, you're a better driver? Not so, IMHO.
If you have to stay in the pack to stay in the race, you're just more likely to get hit. Period.

In a recent online race with 4 cars. I was LAPPED TWICE by the winner... The 3rd place person, though a FAR better driver than me, had a MUCH MORE BEAT UP car by the end of the race. Because through most of the race, he was in the pack, I was out behind!
The 1st car was out so far ahead that he too was not as beat up as the 2nd & 3rd place cars. And I think in a one make race the people in the 2nd & 3rd place cars MIGHT have beaten the 1st place winner, who was in a better car... If I was in a 1 make race with them, I might still have finished last, but I probably would've been with the pack & more beat up. But NOT because I'm a lesser driver. Simply from being amongst the other cars.

 

[G36E]

I guess it only messes up the aerodynamics

 

[Nismo34]

Considering damage has been proven NOT to affect the rigidity, and I havent noticed damage affect handling/aero.

 

[watermelon punch]

Considering damage has been proven NOT to affect the rigidity, and I havent noticed damage affect handling/aero.

"Damage" you get in a race where the damage is set to "light" or "heavy" - no does not effect rigidity any more than any other crash.
But from my experience, a lot of bumping & crashing seems to add to the rigidity decrease over the longer term.

Anyway... if it has been "proven", can you please cite your source? Thank you.

 

[Nismo34]

Im just quoting a member of the forum. The thread I can not find. If you would so kindly prove damage/crashing DOES affect rigidity. Thank you.

 

[watermelon punch]

Im just quoting a member of the forum. The thread I can not find. If you would so kindly prove damage/crashing DOES affect rigidity. Thank you.

I already stated one of the experiments I did earlier in this thread.
You too can recreate this experiment with your own game.

(Again we're not talking about how in a single race, with damage set to "ON" how your car starts handling really whacked out funny after a crash during the race, and then that gets fixed after the race, and you don't have that damage in the next race. That's not what we're talking about here, just to be clear. We're talking about where during a race, you have a lot of crashes, and in the NEXT race or 2 races later, your car starts to act slightly different in handling.)

 

[Villain]

The worst chassis I ever experienced was a ~90k KM car from the UCD and it was very rough on the road -- yet drivable. Once I restored the chassis, it was smooth and handled very well.

 

[Shmorgusborg]

I think that the chassis rigidity can only decrease so far. Of course I've never driven a car long enough to find out. I usually move on to another car after a few hundred miles.