New to PC2

Playing on a loose and Dualshock 4 controller and it's much greater, than when I followed common advice to use stable set up.

Generally stable set up is good pre corner and after, but understeer is heavy on those, and this leads to overdoing and disbalance in situations, where in opposite, you could just slight control a car mid corners without loosing speed, grip, pace. May be it's personal thing, but I would recommend loose set up with little tweaks, mostly on differential. When you'll find sweet spots with it, it will be easy to get used to more reliable suspension. Also with stable set up it will be much harder to handle in race emergency situations, since stable set up for more straight forward line driving.

To sum up all my experience with the game, loose set up instantly changed a lot in a better way.
 
PCARS 2 is dead on consoles update wise so no there isn't a way to incorporate those new indy liveries on the console version unless its done by sms and sms is busy working on pcars 3 right now.

I will be playing on PS4, can you tell us what else we are missing out on going forward compared to PC players ?
 
If I'm not mistaken the console and PC versions got all the same patches and stopped updating at the same time. So the only thing missing from the consoles really should be mods. And the overall better PC performance of course, if you have the CPU for it. Nothing specifically that was done to improve the PC version that wasn't also done for the consoles.
 
The 3 benefits of running PC2 on PC are:
- Custom FFB profiles. This allows the feeling of the game to be changed to be like AC or anywhere in between. This can make a difference in feeling more car slide and the loss of grip as well as the way the wheel feels on turn in. PC2 kind of feels like the cars are pivoting from the center of the car sometimes and this can cure some of that and give a more real life feel.
-Mod cars. Keeps the game alive and people are putting in some good work here.
-The biggest one is that the game just runs as smooth as butter and looks great. More visual settings, better picture, less FPS drop and no tearing. The feeling of the cars are somehow better. Hard to put a finger on but smoother is the word I'd use.

I have PC2 on PS4 Pro and PC. All this to say that nobody is missing out on really anything on console. It's just the typical console "slightly watered down version so it runs well" scenario. If it's the difference of having the game and not having it, get it hands down. Probably the most immersive sim experience you're going to get on a console right now. (maybe until ACC comes out but that's only Blancpain GT3/4's)
 
Having bought PC2 just earlier this week (very late to the game i know), but i finally was able to put in a couple hours worth of seat time.

We all know PC2 has creed because Slightly Mad Studio is based in the UK, with lots of participation from the auto industry.

Below are my notes from my 2nd session with PC2 last Thursday afternoon when i went over the Option tab in detail in order to familiarize myself with everything that PC2 has to offer:

(For those who wants to read my notes from my 1st session, you can click here.)

The Option tab is broken down into 7 sub-menus:
a - Gameplay
b - Visual Effects (FX)
c - Camera
d - Controls
e - TV Calibration
f - Audio
g - (Game) System (setup)

During my familiarization session here, i will go over these 5 sub-menus first:
g - (Game) System (setup)
a - Gameplay
d - Controls
e - TV Calibration
b - Visual Effects (FX)


g - (Game) System (setup):
What is UDP frequency set... not sure what's for.

a - GAMEPLAY OPTION:
Has 2 sub-tabs:
1) Authenticity sub-tab and
2) Onscreen Guides & Display sub-tab

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224652-L.jpg


Gameplay screen during Test Drive:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423223256-L.jpg


1) The Authenticity sub-tab contains all the Assistance:
- Steering = NO
- Braking = NO
- Driving = Authentic, OFF, FULL
ABS = Low
Stability Control = Authentic
Traction Control = low
- Opposite Lock = off
- Damage = off, visual only, Performance impacting (Not Full), Full (Real)
- Mechanical Failure = i set to NO for now because i want to do the practice run in the best and most ideal conditions.
- Tire wear = off, authentic (real tire-life rate), accelerated (real world rate)
- Fuel usage = off, slow, real
- Engine Auto Start = Yes, NO
- Rules and Penalty = ON
- Pit Stop = No not Manuel, Yes Manuel
- Pit Stop Cinematic = On, off
- Cooldown lap = On yes Manuel, Off
- Rolling Start = no, Yes Manuel
- Radio subtitle = On or off

Question:
why are the choices not consistent, sometimes it's "on" or "yes", "off" or "no"?
which reminds me: i have my doubt about some of the help notes on the side, because reading some of them makes no sense, a few of them may not be correct or accurate... or maybe i was tired and confused.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224722-L.jpg


Gameplay screen during Test Drive:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423223327-L.jpg


2) The Onscreen displays sub-tab has the following options:
- HUD level = off, full, light, telemetry
- Driving line Guide = OFF
- turn indicator = off (be like Kimi, leave me alone)
- Track Map
- lap info = default, on, off, edited
- Grid lights
- Cockpit view = off
- opponent names = off, multiplayers only, single player only, on
- race engineer (control tower) = off, authetic, always
- spotter = off, authentic, always
- proximity indicator = off, on
- pit stop visual cue = ON
- units = Imperial, metrics
- tutorial = ON until i have seen them all at least a few times...




d - CONTROLS OPTION sub-menu:
Is probably the most important and critical under the Option tab and has 4 sub-tabs:
1) Control Scheme
2) Configuration
3) Assignment Edits
4) Force Feedback


I went in the following order:
1) Control Scheme sub-tab, which is for my G29 wheel
- i calibrated my wheel and pedals (i have more detail to provide during my next familiarization session/post about calibration.)
- auto clutch option (i will go over this detail during my next familiarization session).
- gearing = auto/manual

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224738-L.jpg


Project%20CARS%202_20200423223635-L.jpg


2) COnfiguration sub-tab:
- steering dead zone = 0 (it was 7)
- steering sensitivity = 50%
- throttle deadzone = 0 (it was 7
- throttle sensitivity = 50%
- braking deadzone = 0 it was 7
- braking sensitivity = 50% (it was 35
- clutch deadzone = 0 (it was 7 originally
- clutch sensitivity = 50% (it was 35 originally
- speed sensitivity = 0 originally, i set it to 30
- controller damping = originally set at 100, i set it to 50
- minimum shift time = o origially, i set it to 50
- RPM Gear Display = yes


Project%20CARS%202_20200423223954-L.jpg


4) Force Feedback sub-tab !:
- Flavors = Immersive, Informative, Raw!
- Gain = originally at 100, set to 50
- Volume?! = i have no idea what this means, it is currently set at 50, will leave it as such
- Tone, same thing here...
- FX, same thing here...
- Menu Spring Strength = 0.40 originally, set to 0.30, actually setting to 0.10

3) Assignment Edits sub-tab:
has the following 5 sub-sub-tabs:
a) moTIOn
b) Vehicle
c) Assistance
d) camera and view
e) game

I wont go into the details here just yet, i will save it for my next familiarization session.
i just want to mention that:
- the Handbrake was originally set to the cross button, but i set it to circle because that's also how i set it in GTS based on my preference.
- the KERS was originally set to the circle button, so i set it to cross so to not lose this functionality.
BUt eventually i had to set something else to the circle button (i believe "ignition"), so the KERS will be re-assigned to another button in my case.

So for now i am just going to list all the functions that can be assigned to buttons either on your controller, wheel or keyboard. For now these are are my UNASSIGNED VEHICLE FUNCTIONS:
- iGNITION (eventually set to the X button).
- START ENGINE
- HEADLIGHTS
- WINDSCREEN WIPERS
- KERS
- DRS
- REQUEST PIT STOP
- PIT SPEED LIMITER ENGAGE
- INCREASE BRAKE BIAS
- DECREASE BRAKE BIAS
- INCREASE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR
- DECREASE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR
- INCREATSE REAR ANTI ROLL BAR
- DECREASE REAR ANTI ROLL BAR

These are my UNASSIGNED ASSISTANCE FUNTIONS:
- STEERING ASSISTANCe = i dont need
- braking assistance = i dont need
- stability control = ASC
- traction control = DSG
- automatic clutch (on/off)
- increase force feedback vol
- decrease force feedback vol
- increase force feedback tone
- decrease force feedback tone

These are my UNASSIGNED CAMERA AND VIEWS FUNCTIONS:
Cycle Camera views = originally set to the square button, i set it to R3
look back = triangle button originally
look up = i dont need
look down = i dont need
look left =
look right =
seat forward
seat backward
seat up
seat down
seat angle up
seat angle down

These are my UNASSIGNED GAME FUNCTIONS:
Reset Car = Enter originally
Opponent names - down button?! for what ? toggle on off ?
Cycle Motec LCD =
cycle HUD display = Left button
split times = right button
Car management = up button
ICM Menu up = up button
ICM Menu down = down button
ICM menu left = left button
ICM menu right = right button



At 1:20pm, i reached these sub-menus:
e - TV Calibration:
The color seems alright on my 50in plasma... i probably need to do the same when i hook up the PS4 to my 75" LED.


Project%20CARS%202_20200423224217-L.jpg


b - Visual Effects (FX):
Graphics = Enhance visual (taxing), enhance resolution, enhance framerate...
Post-Processing Filter = ON by default
exterior sun flare = Full was the default, subtle, minimal, Chroma, None
Interior sun flare = Subtle was the original setting
Bloom = ON by default, but i turn it off
Heat Haze = On by default, but i turn it off
exposure compensation = 1.00 by default
rain drops = Yes by default, but i set to no
vignette = yes by default, but i set to no
Crepuscular rays = yes by default
screen dirt = yes by default, but i set to no
cockpit mirrors = On by default,

At 1:30pm, i still has to go through these sub-menus (Camera and Audio), but i was starting to get tired and all i wanted to do is just simply drive PC2 for the first time. So i left everything from the Camera and Audio sub-menus by default/standard, and will dedicate more time on these during my next familiarization session.


At 1:33pm, i finally get to the Private Testing section:
I am excited despite being tired... but i still wanted to try myself out and to get myself situation, getting to know the driving engine, and dabble in this new world, get a feel for it.
I told myself that i will not go to the Career New Driver section only until when i have practiced enough.
Same thing goes for the Community section.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423032117-L.jpg


After clicking on Private Testing section, i am being presented with this choice/suggestion:
Car: 720S RDA silica white
Track: on Long Beach Streets circuit
Condition: clear day

Nice i say, but i am not going to jump right into such a nice car, i fear to spoil myself from driving low power car... and i tend to prefer starting on more reasonable and modest cars to get a feel and more importantly, being able to compare with what i already know in real life.

so i switch to the more pedestrian Toyota 86.

With all the settings i set so far, First wheel spin... i was a bit apprehensive, so i drive it like (in auto mode for now because i want to first focus on the driving dynamics and the steering) as if i am test driving the car in real life at the dealership.
It took me about 10 corners, or about halfway through the first lap of the track before i have a smile on my face...
i really like how ... i dont know how to describe it... being less forgiving than in GTS... more sensitive, the steering input dont feel quite like 1:1 ratio as i would expect but i think this is a question of more adjustment, and there is a certain deadzone...at least with the current setup...
despite this first initial reaction, i think it is already much better than GTS.

GTS now feels like a toy LOL, i can't believe i am saying of this staple that i have been holding up to such high regards for the past 20 years!
After a couple laps, i am feeling very positive about PC2.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423134252-L.jpg


A few question:
There is no save replay? i couldn't save my personal testing session ?
It was just drive, adjust and setup, and get out, but no way to save the session?
i was hoping i would be able to save the drive replay in its entirety... so i can watch what and how i drove during this session... but i dont see that option.. :(

did i miss something? the replay is barely 2min long.. what a joke...

At this point, it was mid-afternoon, i got sleepy and so i went to take a nap...

I will get on GTS next to see the difference to feel the difference,
probably get the same car Toy 86 and drive on the green hell to be able to compare both games/sim

But first nap time.
 
Last edited:
- speed sensitivity = 0 originally, i set it to 30 - on a wheel this should be at 0 as you already have full control of sensitivity at any speed.
- controller damping = originally set at 100, i set it to 50 - again on a wheel this should be at 0 as you want full control of turning left/right without any delay.
- minimum shift time = o origially, i set it to 50 - this should be at 0 as well as it allows you to shift gears as the cars intended, if you set this to high you will find you can't change gear when you want.

The top 2 are for controller use, I have no idea why they're still active for wheel use as it just defeats the object of having a wheel with all the degrees of rotation we have at our disposal & the ability to be as sensitive as we wish, hence this statement from you.

"the steering input dont feel quite like 1:1 ratio as i would expect but i think this is a question of more adjustment, and there is a certain deadzone...at least with the current setup"

Personal opinion of course, I like 1:1 control settings, what I do with my wheel I want it represented exactly on screen with no delays.
 
Last edited:
Volume?! = i have no idea what this means

FORCE FEEDBACK - Personal to how you want the wheel to feel and react. Here's mine. I prefer a lighter wheel with more subtle effects

Gain - 86 Overall power. I lower this to give some headroom if I want to increase other settings
Volume - 35 The centering force. Raising it makes the wheel heavier. Lowering it etc.
Tone - 60 A sweep between suspension or tyre movements coming through the wheel. I slightly favour the tyres.
FX - 0 Increased kerb and bump effects. I don't care for them since they can make the G29 rattle. But add a little if you want.

Try RAW first but if you want a livelier wheel try informative - without changing any other settings. Immersive makes the G29 heavier I find.
You need to give informative and immersive a couple of laps for the automatic ffb calibration to take affect. You shouldn't get any ffb clipping with these.

Clipping is shown on the right hand red bar in the lower left display of the full HUD mode (the one with all the tyre information). If using informative or immersive modes the bar shouldn't move because of the auto FFB tuning. In raw it will.

If tuning the wheel in RAW set the gain lower initially, say to 75. Set the TONE to the centre. Set FX to zero. I'd suggest picking a lower powered road car, faster cars with higher downforce and stiff suspension will make it more difficult. Drive the car and adjust the volume setting to how stiff you want the wheel to be. Then adjust the tone to the left (suspension movement) or right (tyre slip) to what feels best. If you want to add FX (road feel, rumble strip bumps etc) raise it slowly. Finally increase the gain which is the overall power of the effects. Here's where you should watch that red bar mentioned above. A little bit of a flicker every now and then is ok but if it's on constantly the wheel is clipping and you're losing effects. So it's best to adjust it accordingly.
It's best to adjust all the settings gradually, 5 at a time, and then fine tune later.
Hope that helps! Or it might confuse you further. :)


There is no save replay?
I'm not sure if you can save practice sessions, I've never tried. You can save races though. But... PC2's save files are quite large and since Sony limit hard drive save space to 1Gb you can't save many of them. It's always been a problem. You're limited to a race length of about 45mins I think. I can usually keep about four 30 minute races before I have to delete.
Driving = Authentic
I'd suggest using authentic since all the other aids will then activate as required on a car to car basis.

Also don't feel the aids are like in GT sport, they work more realistically. If the car has traction control make use of it - it will help with any wheel spinning. Especially on kerbs. The abs can be felt working through the wheel.
 
Having bought PC2 just earlier this week (very late to the game i know), but i finally was able to put in a couple hours worth of seat time.

We all know PC2 has creed because Slightly Mad Studio is based in the UK, with lots of participation from the auto industry.

Below are my notes from my 2nd session with PC2 last Thursday afternoon when i went over the Option tab in detail in order to familiarize myself with everything that PC2 has to offer:

(For those who wants to read my notes from my 1st session, you can click here.)

The Option tab is broken down into 7 sub-menus:
a - Gameplay
b - Visual Effects (FX)
c - Camera
d - Controls
e - TV Calibration
f - Audio
g - (Game) System (setup)

During my familiarization session here, i will go over these 5 sub-menus first:
g - (Game) System (setup)
a - Gameplay
d - Controls
e - TV Calibration
b - Visual Effects (FX)


g - (Game) System (setup):
What is UDP frequency set... not sure what's for.

a - GAMEPLAY OPTION:
Has 2 sub-tabs:
1) Authenticity sub-tab and
2) Onscreen Guides & Display sub-tab

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224652-L.jpg


Gameplay screen during Test Drive:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423223256-L.jpg


1) The Authenticity sub-tab contains all the Assistance:
- Steering = NO
- Braking = NO
- Driving = Authentic, OFF, FULL
ABS = Low
Stability Control = Authentic
Traction Control = low
- Opposite Lock = off
- Damage = off, visual only, Performance impacting (Not Full), Full (Real)
- Mechanical Failure = i set to NO for now because i want to do the practice run in the best and most ideal conditions.
- Tire wear = off, authentic (real tire-life rate), accelerated (real world rate)
- Fuel usage = off, slow, real
- Engine Auto Start = Yes, NO
- Rules and Penalty = ON
- Pit Stop = No not Manuel, Yes Manuel
- Pit Stop Cinematic = On, off
- Cooldown lap = On yes Manuel, Off
- Rolling Start = no, Yes Manuel
- Radio subtitle = On or off

Question:
why are the choices not consistent, sometimes it's "on" or "yes", "off" or "no"?
which reminds me: i have my doubt about some of the help notes on the side, because reading some of them makes no sense, a few of them may not be correct or accurate... or maybe i was tired and confused.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224722-L.jpg


Gameplay screen during Test Drive:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423223327-L.jpg


2) The Onscreen displays sub-tab has the following options:
- HUD level = off, full, light, telemetry
- Driving line Guide = OFF
- turn indicator = off (be like Kimi, leave me alone)
- Track Map
- lap info = default, on, off, edited
- Grid lights
- Cockpit view = off
- opponent names = off, multiplayers only, single player only, on
- race engineer (control tower) = off, authetic, always
- spotter = off, authentic, always
- proximity indicator = off, on
- pit stop visual cue = ON
- units = Imperial, metrics
- tutorial = ON until i have seen them all at least a few times...




d - CONTROLS OPTION sub-menu:
Is probably the most important and critical under the Option tab and has 4 sub-tabs:
1) Control Scheme
2) Configuration
3) Assignment Edits
4) Force Feedback


I went in the following order:
1) Control Scheme sub-tab, which is for my G29 wheel
- i calibrated my wheel and pedals (i have more detail to provide during my next familiarization session/post about calibration.)
- auto clutch option (i will go over this detail during my next familiarization session).
- gearing = auto/manual

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224738-L.jpg


Project%20CARS%202_20200423223635-L.jpg


2) COnfiguration sub-tab:
- steering dead zone = 0 (it was 7)
- steering sensitivity = 50%
- throttle deadzone = 0 (it was 7
- throttle sensitivity = 50%
- braking deadzone = 0 it was 7
- braking sensitivity = 50% (it was 35
- clutch deadzone = 0 (it was 7 originally
- clutch sensitivity = 50% (it was 35 originally
- speed sensitivity = 0 originally, i set it to 30
- controller damping = originally set at 100, i set it to 50
- minimum shift time = o origially, i set it to 50
- RPM Gear Display = yes


Project%20CARS%202_20200423223954-L.jpg


4) Force Feedback sub-tab !:
- Flavors = Immersive, Informative, Raw!
- Gain = originally at 100, set to 50
- Volume?! = i have no idea what this means, it is currently set at 50, will leave it as such
- Tone, same thing here...
- FX, same thing here...
- Menu Spring Strength = 0.40 originally, set to 0.30, actually setting to 0.10

3) Assignment Edits sub-tab:
has the following 5 sub-sub-tabs:
a) moTIOn
b) Vehicle
c) Assistance
d) camera and view
e) game

I wont go into the details here just yet, i will save it for my next familiarization session.
i just want to mention that:
- the Handbrake was originally set to the cross button, but i set it to circle because that's also how i set it in GTS based on my preference.
- the KERS was originally set to the circle button, so i set it to cross so to not lose this functionality.
BUt eventually i had to set something else to the circle button (i believe "ignition"), so the KERS will be re-assigned to another button in my case.

So for now i am just going to list all the functions that can be assigned to buttons either on your controller, wheel or keyboard. For now these are are my UNASSIGNED VEHICLE FUNCTIONS:
- iGNITION (eventually set to the X button).
- START ENGINE
- HEADLIGHTS
- WINDSCREEN WIPERS
- KERS
- DRS
- REQUEST PIT STOP
- PIT SPEED LIMITER ENGAGE
- INCREASE BRAKE BIAS
- DECREASE BRAKE BIAS
- INCREASE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR
- DECREASE FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR
- INCREATSE REAR ANTI ROLL BAR
- DECREASE REAR ANTI ROLL BAR

These are my UNASSIGNED ASSISTANCE FUNTIONS:
- STEERING ASSISTANCe = i dont need
- braking assistance = i dont need
- stability control = ASC
- traction control = DSG
- automatic clutch (on/off)
- increase force feedback vol
- decrease force feedback vol
- increase force feedback tone
- decrease force feedback tone

These are my UNASSIGNED CAMERA AND VIEWS FUNCTIONS:
Cycle Camera views = originally set to the square button, i set it to R3
look back = triangle button originally
look up = i dont need
look down = i dont need
look left =
look right =
seat forward
seat backward
seat up
seat down
seat angle up
seat angle down

These are my UNASSIGNED GAME FUNCTIONS:
Reset Car = Enter originally
Opponent names - down button?! for what ? toggle on off ?
Cycle Motec LCD =
cycle HUD display = Left button
split times = right button
Car management = up button
ICM Menu up = up button
ICM Menu down = down button
ICM menu left = left button
ICM menu right = right button



At 1:20pm, i reached these sub-menus:
e - TV Calibration:
The color seems alright on my 50in plasma... i probably need to do the same when i hook up the PS4 to my 75" LED.


Project%20CARS%202_20200423224217-L.jpg


b - Visual Effects (FX):
Graphics = Enhance visual (taxing), enhance resolution, enhance framerate...
Post-Processing Filter = ON by default
exterior sun flare = Full was the default, subtle, minimal, Chroma, None
Interior sun flare = Subtle was the original setting
Bloom = ON by default, but i turn it off
Heat Haze = On by default, but i turn it off
exposure compensation = 1.00 by default
rain drops = Yes by default, but i set to no
vignette = yes by default, but i set to no
Crepuscular rays = yes by default
screen dirt = yes by default, but i set to no
cockpit mirrors = On by default,

At 1:30pm, i still has to go through these sub-menus (Camera and Audio), but i was starting to get tired and all i wanted to do is just simply drive PC2 for the first time. So i left everything from the Camera and Audio sub-menus by default/standard, and will dedicate more time on these during my next familiarization session.


At 1:33pm, i finally get to the Private Testing section:
I am excited despite being tired... but i still wanted to try myself out and to get myself situation, getting to know the driving engine, and dabble in this new world, get a feel for it.
I told myself that i will not go to the Career New Driver section only until when i have practiced enough.
Same thing goes for the Community section.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423032117-L.jpg


After clicking on Private Testing section, i am being presented with this choice/suggestion:
Car: 720S RDA silica white
Track: on Long Beach Streets circuit
Condition: clear day

Nice i say, but i am not going to jump right into such a nice car, i fear to spoil myself from driving low power car... and i tend to prefer starting on more reasonable and modest cars to get a feel and more importantly, being able to compare with what i already know in real life.

so i switch to the more pedestrian Toyota 86.

With all the settings i set so far, First wheel spin... i was a bit apprehensive, so i drive it like (in auto mode for now because i want to first focus on the driving dynamics and the steering) as if i am test driving the car in real life at the dealership.
It took me about 10 corners, or about halfway through the first lap of the track before i have a smile on my face...
i really like how ... i dont know how to describe it... being less forgiving than in GTS... more sensitive, the steering input dont feel quite like 1:1 ratio as i would expect but i think this is a question of more adjustment, and there is a certain deadzone...at least with the current setup...
despite this first initial reaction, i think it is already much better than GTS.

GTS now feels like a toy LOL, i can't believe i am saying of this staple that i have been holding up to such high regards for the past 20 years!
After a couple laps, i am feeling very positive about PC2.

Project%20CARS%202_20200423134252-L.jpg


A few question:
There is no save replay? i couldn't save my personal testing session ?
It was just drive, adjust and setup, and get out, but no way to save the session?
i was hoping i would be able to save the drive replay in its entirety... so i can watch what and how i drove during this session... but i dont see that option.. :(

did i miss something? the replay is barely 2min long.. what a joke...

At this point, it was mid-afternoon, i got sleepy and so i went to take a nap...

I will get on GTS next to see the difference to feel the difference,
probably get the same car Toy 86 and drive on the green hell to be able to compare both games/sim

But first nap time.
Go buy a 4 port usb hub. Plug in keyboard. Assign whatever you want to keyboard. Welcome to Project Cars 2. You will not go back to GT Spurt oops Sport.
 


Turn it up :)



So decided to download PC2 deluxe edition since really cheap on Playstation store and I wanted the Panoz. It required me to delete previous disc version. Tips however for those that get this, which recommend they especially if do not have PC2. Once this downloads you have to download motorsports pack (which has the panzo) separately. Surprisingly my game save from disc version was not deleted and work with the electronic deluxe copy. Then re-download I think porsch legends and lemans pack and they also installed perfectly fine with the electronic delux version. Only took the Panzo for a few quick laps, seem like will not take to long to get used to.
 
========================= 3rd session on Thursday night ======================================

Following up on my previous post, my 3rd session with PC2 was on Thursday late night

For this session i went over the Option tab again (PART 2) in order to cover the last 2 (two) sub-menus i didn't get to check out yet:
c - CAMERA
f - AUDIO

Starting with the Audio section first because it was the most straight forward out of the two:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423225101-L.jpg

Project%20CARS%202_20200423224204-L.jpg

Original AUDIO Settings:
Master Vol = 100
Menu Vol = 100
Menu BGM = 100
Player Engine Volume = 25, i set it to 45
Opponent Engine Vol = 25, i set it to 20
General Car Vol = 25, i set it to 35
Tyre Vol = 25, i might have set it to 30 eventually
Collision Vol = 25, i set it to 40
Track Surface Volume = 25
Environment Vol = 25, i set it to 30
Sound FX Vol = 25, i set it to 30
Pit to Car Radio = 25, i set to 35 i believe
Enable Headphone Mix = off, i set it to ON
LFE Extra Volme = 25
Speech to controller speaker = on


With that out of the way, i am now onto the Camera section that i have been wanting to check out all along, which as the following sub-tabs:
1) Cockpit & Field of View
2) Movement

Project%20CARS%202_20200423225027-L.jpg

CAMERA Settings:
For those unfamiliar with the units here, all the numbers are in the unit of degree, representing the field of view in terms of Camera horizontal width angle.
As indicated in the game, the value range between 35 and 120 degree.

The smaller the number in the degree, the farther back the camera is from the plane of vision, and the narrower the field of vision, but less distorsion
The higher the number in degree, the closer the camera is to the plan of vision, and the wider the field of vision, but a lot of distorsion...

For example: this is 35 degree angle Chase Camera:
Project%20CARS%202_20200424091521-L.jpg


this is 120 degree angle Chase Camera
Project%20CARS%202_20200424091438-L.jpg




This is really up to each personal preferences, so the number will be very different for each person.

Camera Screen during Test Drive session:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423224427-L.jpg

The original Cockpit & Field of View settings are:
Bumper Camera = 70
Bonnet Camera = 70
Roof Camera = 70
Chase Camera = 70
Cockpit Camera = 70
Helmet Camera = 70
Rear Passenger Camera = 96
Field of view Speed Sensitivity = NO
- minimum speed sensitivity = 95
- maximum speed sensitivity = 115
- minimum speed sensitive speed = 60
Maximum SPeed Sensitive Speed = 170

Project%20CARS%202_20200423225048-L.jpg


Movement screen during Test Drive session:
Project%20CARS%202_20200423224146-L.jpg

Original Camera MOVEMENT settings:
High Speed SHake = off
WOrld movement = 50
G Force Effect = 50
Show Helmet = Yes
Helmet Depth of Field = Yes
Helmoet look to Apex = 50
Helmet Leaning = 75
Camera = Leaning = 75


Keeping all these available variables and parameters in mind, i am heading out for a second round of laps with my favorite test drive base configuration:
2013 Toyota 86
on Long Beach Streets
with Sunny Clear weather

For reasons that i will explain in a subsequent post, i am not able to used my manual G29 gearshift at this moment, but i really want to play in manual mode.
So this time around i am changing from Auto to Manual, in order to see if i am able to use my shift paddles instead of the gate, even if the car in the game/in real life does not have paddle...
Note: with this type of configuration/transmission choice, i believe you will have to set the "AUTO CLUTCH" to "ON", otherwise the game would be expecting you to clutch...
Project%20CARS%202_20200423224738-L.jpg



With the lack of knowledge at the time, and in an attempt to reduce the steering deadzone spot i initially think i felt during my first test drive, I also changed the steering sensitivity to 70 to test what SS does and affect anything.

As mentionned by one of you, I think i will need to hook up a keyboard to a USB hub because the PS4 doesn't have enough USB ports for everything that i am already hooking it to...

The car is now undrivable !!!
i couldn't believe it.
I restarted the practice session and again... undrivable... i couldn't turn... i had to maneuver the 86 as if i was the captain of a pirate ship...
It was late night and i was getting frustrated... i think i changed one too many variables without knowing it...
and now the car couldn't perform or be driven properly.
What have i done?!

There are so many variables... each one of them affecting others...
For each variable, you technically would have to do a minimum of 2, if not more test runs, in order to discern the difference before changing anything else.

i kept on going back and forth and now i am totally lost...

After a few trial and error driving around, switching the control setting and toggling things on and off, rince and repeat...
i think i was able to make the car more management and handle correctly.

I propably spent 30min to 1hour going through this circus...

When i got close to somewhere normal or close to how it was before, i decided to call it a night...
I couldn't remember the settings i settled on, and since then, i changed some more, which i will go over in my next post.
I was just too tired and frustrated, i couldn't think straight, whatever the numbers were, i just shut down the PS4.

Project%20CARS%202_20200424100801-L.jpg


From this late night session, here are some of my additional observations and questions:
1) So it looks to be NO save replay function in the practice, you can only save your vehicle settings
2) For some reason my very first run didn't get logged as part of my affinity, hopefully this second run here will be logged, unless error on my part. Maybe this affinity thing is on based on each session and get reset each time. Who knows, i will find out on Friday morning. I just don't know what do i have to do for it to stick, or is it just per session and it gets reset everytime you shut down the game ?
3) Is there an overall save function/button in this game ? I dont see it and i wish it does... i am one that needs confirmation before i can shut down my PS4... i feel kinda weird just turning off the PS4 "assuming" "trusting" that everything got saved...
4) i also wish that within each option and control menu, before moving to another page, that you have the ability to confirm saving the changes... because as is, it is so easy to change a setting by error without you noticing, and by the time you leave the page, the change taking into effect, without you realizing... This is frustrating @IanBell


Keep in mind this was late night on Thursday, i need to process all this information before i can confirm my thoughts and my settings.
For now i will go sleep on it...
Then the plan for tomorrow when i am refreshed is to:
1) set all the setting to what i think is my liking
2) go for another test ride
3) hopefully confirm my thoughts, at least on my personal preferred settings.
4) and as said before i also would like to compare apple to apple between GTS and PC2 by using the same car, same tracks and same condition in order to give my definitive.

SO here goes my feeling: PC2 has the potential to be a great sim, but at this precise point in time i haven't figured it out yet...
All i can say is: The difference between PC2 and GTS is the same as GTS and NFS for example...

I am quite impressed so far, but the tweeking does require a lot of time and effort setting up...
unlike GTS where you can more or less jump in and ride.. (at least for me), but with PC2, you have to set it up to your liking first...
Maybe this is unfair as i have been playing GT for decades and it has becomes second nature already... hopefully i will be familiarized myself with PC2 soon.

So that's the plan for my next familiarization session tomorrow Friday (which i already did), i just need to report back to you on my next post update.
 
CTznOfTime

The best view I think is either helmet or cockpit
Try them in your testing

Yes you are right.

I don't know why I bother testing out the Bumper, Bonnet, Hood, Roof or Chase cams, which are good for the joystick/pad, but since I have a wheel and for PC2 will only play with the G29. I don't see it being playt any other way...

Cockpit and Helmet views it is...
 
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Unless the console versions are different, custom races at least should count for your affinity(so if you do a practice session with bots it will count even if you don't do a race). That's how it works on PC at least. I've never specifically checked that private testing counted, I assumed it did but apparently it doesn't.

And no, you can't save replays from private testing, just race weekend sessions that let you view the replay after the clock expires.

You can probably expect to change the player engine volume for certain cars as they will be too loud to hear the others around you or too quiet to hear yourself well.

One other thing: if you enable the "show helmet" option, all of the audio will be muffled in an attempt to simulate a helmet covering your ears. Some people like it for immersion, others not so much. Personally I use helmet cam with show helmet turned off and also with helmet depth of field turned off as I hate how that works, it looks a bit silly and you often can't see your mirrors or your instruments. It's a nice novelty idea but can't really emulate real life.
 
Notes from My 4th session with PC2 on Friday Morning:

At some point between yesterday afternoon's first wheels spin and this forth session, the drive was awful and was all messed up...
I dont know what i did, but i just couldn't turn the car (steer) at all. Something was totally off and i dont if this had to do with me inadvertently calibrated my wheels the wrong way, or some other settings or both.
So on Friday morning, i set all the parameters back to the original settings as best as i could.

During this session, here is what i did:
A) Calibrate my steering wheel again
B) Tweak my settings in a more methodical way, in the following order, with the intend that i find my happy configuration/setting:
- 1) Note on Auto Clutch
- 2) Force Feedback Volume = 80
- 3) Force Feedback Gain = 60
- 4) Speed Sensitivity (SS)
C) if every went well, then all i have left to do is change the Cameras' Point of Views to my liking


A) STEERING WHEEL CALIBRATION:
The reason i went on to calibrate my wheel again is because the previous night i did a second time around, but messed up the process (or so i thought).
I think i did it correctly the first time around, but for whatever reason, last night i decided to perform a second calibration, doing it a different way from the first time.
I believe in retrospective that it made it worse, my car wasn't turning properly, it was so stupid but i will never know for sure since i did it late in the night (tired), in addition to all the various FFB and sensitivity setting changed... All i can say is that The instruction on the screen on how to calibrate the wheel left a lot to desire, and could be interpreted in many ways...

Since i wasn't sure about the whole thing, here is a clear description on how i did this third (possibly repeated the same process a forth time for good measure)

Project%20CARS%202_20200424001849-L.jpg


My interpretation of the numbers are as followed:
1) The first calibration is to evaluate the full steering range from dead middle to locking the wheel on one side only, that value is 100 (in percentage i supposed). You only have to turn the wheel to one side, lock it there and click NEXT. You do not need to have do lock to lock.
2) The second calibration, if done correctly, is a) by returning wheel back to the middle/center and making sure the value shown is 0, then b) starting from that position, you either choose to turn it left OR right 90 degrees (just pick way, it doesn't matter which one), then c) hold the steering steady, and the value should be at 890. Then d) click Save.

Now i am satisfied with the results, because it is a repeatable process and the value looked correct to me.

If you do it in any other way, i think you are going to have a painful experience driving... Correct me if i am wrong.


Project%20CARS%202_20200423224738-L.jpg

A note about auto clutch
- auto clutch = On/OFF
- gearing = manual
- inverted gearing = NO

As you can tell already, i have the G29 at my disposition, but my driving sim/setup is currently going through a slight morph/evolution because it was originally made for the DFGT. I have been using the G29 since the beginning of the year, but i didn't have a place to fit the manual gear stick, thus the need to modify it.
I was supposed to be done with the mod last weekend, i will try to finish within the next few days, i just need to set aside a couple of hours so i can finish it.
Until then, i can only drive in Auto mode or paddle shift where possible.

FOr this reason, When i first tested PC2 with the Toyota 86, it was in Auto, then my second time i tried to see if i could drive in manual mode using the paddle.
That's why i turned on the auto clutch "ON", and it works... i paddle shift in my 86.

I better hurry up and finish my racing sim set up nevertheless, so i can enjoy full manual mode.

View media item 61576


Control Settings Tweeked:
I then made a point to change ONLY one parameter at a time, and will only move on from there when i am fully satisfied with it...
When all said and done, i consider my 4th session done and complete because everything seems to get dialed in.

The Parameters i settled on are the following listed below:
I would like to request your advice and guidance, if anything looks out of place.

GAMEPLAY:
personal preference settings, nothing affecting the driving dynamics, therefore i am not listing anything there.


CONTROLS CONFIGURATION:
Steering Deadzone = 0
Steering Sensitivity = 50

Throttle Deadzone = 0
Throttle Sensitivity = 50

Brake Deadzone = 0
Brake Sensitivity = 50

CLutch Deadzone = 0
Clutch Sensitivity = 50

Speed Sensitivity = 50

"Speed Sensitivity allows you to adjust how sensitive your vehicle is in response to your controller! steering input, and how much steering lock is applied, at high speed.
A Higher value will make the vehicle less sensitive with the wheels turning less at higher speeds.
Using a lower value will make the car more twitchy and sensitive to input at high speed, as the wheels will turn more, and at a faster rate."

Is this only applicable to joystick/controllers, not wheels right? The more i read about it, the more i think that this variable does not affect my G29, but i am not sure.
Can anyone please confirm ? @Mr Grumpy may have already answered my questions before i asked.

Controller Damping = 50

"Conroller Damping allows you to adjust how quickly you can steer from left to right, or right to left.
Setting this to a lower value allows you to steer left and right quicker, and a setting with a highter value makes the steering slower."

Again, i think this is the same thing as above... this is applicable to the controller only right or what ? @Mr Grumpy may have already answered my questions before i asked.

Minimum shift time = 25

"Minimum Shift Time allows you to adjust how quickly you can shift gears, setting this value higher will help to prevent accidental gear shifts, and setting it lower will let you changes gears as quickly as your vehicle allows."
Thank you @Mr Grumpy


CONTROLS FORCE FEEDBACK:
fLavor = Raw
Gain = 60
Volume = 80

Tone = 50
FX = 50
Menu Spring Strength = 0.35


CAMERA FIELDS OF VIEW:
Bumper Camera = 70
Bonnet/Hood Camera = 65
Roof Camera = 80
Chase Camera = 60

Helmet Camera = 80
Cockpit Camera = 90
Rear Passenger Camera = 120

Field of View Speed Sensitivity = OFF/NO
Minimum Speed Sensitivity = 95
Maximum Speed Sensitivity = 115
Minimum Speed Sensitive Speed = 45

Maximum Speed Sensitive Speed = 130


CONTROLS MOVEMENT:
High Speed Shake = OFF
WOrld Movement = 0
G-Force Effect = 25
Show Helmet = Yes
Helmet Depth of Field = Yes
Helmet Look to Apex = 75
Helmet Leaning = 75

Camera Leaning = 75


AUDIO:
Master Volume = 100
Menu Volume = 100
Menu Music Volume = 100
Player Engine Volume = 35
Opponent Engine Volume = 20
General Car Volume = 40
Tire Volume = 30
Collision VOlume = 40
Track Surface Volume = 30
Environment Volumen = 30
Sound Effects Volume = 30
Pit to Car Radio Volume = 30
Enable Headphone Mix = On
Low Frequency Effect Extra Volume = 25
Speech to Controller Speaker = Off


cOMPARed to the Default/Original settings, i didn't change that much.
I guess the Default/Original settings were already good enough, i just need to change a few bits and clicks from there.

Some guidance to anyone just starting out on PC2 like myself:
Dont go crazy and tweak everything at the same time...
Start first by adjusting the FFB Volume. I think that has the biggest impact and most obvious difference.
Whatever it was originally, i first set it to 50, then i went up to increase it to 75. That's when i starting to see how strong enough it was to my liking... i think i will go even higher, but that's going to be for later when test more cars. I wonder of we need to change this FFB Volume with each car that we use?

Thank you @IfAndOr for the tips and clarification before i asked.

Once satisified with the FFB VOlume, i suggest you go adjust the FFB Gain.
I found with the Toyota 86, i was OK with 60, but i need to do more extensive longer driving time to confirm.



Again, Keep in mind, all these settings are based exclusively on my seat time with the Toyota 86 only.
Certainly tHere will be more adjustments to be made later, but for now i think i am happy with my new baseline.

AT this point i am just wondering why i dont just driven the settings straight out of the box for a while and tweek from there.
I may have made it more difficult for myself.


With all the more important aspect sorted above (for now at least, until i get into another car or track condition),
I went on to check out what i can do to change the camera angles and other things less critical, but still important enough for me to feel perfectly adjusted.

Project%20CARS%202_20200424083111-L.jpg


When Adjusting the seat fore and aft, it is hilarious, and it works only for both the Cockpit and Helmet views.
The settings below are based on the Cockpit view:
All the way back is practically by the rear window.
From the rear most position:
- it takes 140 clicks to get to the back of the front seat head rest
- it takes 150 clicks to get right up to the back of the front seat head rest
- it takes 160 clicks to get right up to the back of the headless driver LOL
- i wish i could set it at 190 click from the rear-most point, but that is still not realistic
- it takes 200 clicks to get to the realistic point of view in the cockpit/helmet cam
- At 210 clicks, it is still OK!
- AT 220 clicks, it is the most perfect cockpit/helmet cam POV
- at 230 clicks, it is started to feel cramp, but you can still see most of the rear view mirrors here.
- at 240 clicks, it feels to close, but still ok, probably the original setting
- at 250 clicks, you are a newbie driver
- at 260 clicks, you are a shorty
- at 270 clicks, you just want to see the dash only
- at 280 clicks, you are no longer being realist, overreaching and looking right above the bottom of your steering wheel
- at 290 clicks, you are flying over your steering wheel
- at 350 clicks, you are over your dash heading towards the windshield/HUD (Screenshot)
- at 380 clicks, you are about to lick your windshield
- at 410 clicks, you are going through your windshield, this is now called the Windshield POV.
- at 450 clicks, you are a fly on the windshield, everything is coming at you real fast!
- at 480 clicks, you are a Go Pro Mounted on the windshield

Project%20CARS%202_20200424095321-L.jpg

Seat height adjustment, same as above, it only is applicable to the Cockpit and Helmet views:
- at the lowest position, you are literally on the ground, it is point of view of an ant LOL
- at 50 clicks from the ground, you are at the bucket seat level (depending on the car i suppose)
- at 100 clicks, you are at the rear lower back level
- at 110 clicks, you are at the harness level, in your guts... (depending on the car again)
- at 150 clicks, you are at the heart
- at 160 clicks you are inside your chest
- at 200 clicks, you are at your collar bone level
- at 220, the lowest realistic POV
- at 230 clicks, i think is good!
- at 240 clicks, if you are a tall driver
- at 250 your helmet is touching the ceiling
- at 260 you are touching the ceiling
- at 270 you are the ceiling
- at 280 you are inside the roof
- at 290 you are looking from the sunroof
- at 300 you are on the roof
- at 310 you are a go pro on the roof
- at 320 you are hanging on to the roof
- at 340 you are flying over the car
- at 440 you are standing on your roof, it's actually a pretty cool POV, i now understand why SUV and CUV drivers like their car... somehow it is very drivable from up here LOL
- at 460 it is the absolute limit !!!

I chose to be at 225 clicks about the ground! at least in the 86!


Project%20CARS%202_20200424102517-L.jpg

Seat Angle Adjustment is pretty straight forward:
down is up and up is down...
I believe the default view is right in the middle, because you have approximately 20 clicks to go either "looking up" or "looking down"



This concludes my research.
I know there will be more finite and minute adjustments to be made, and i will gladly report back.. but for now i am really satisfied with the progress i have made with the setup.
All in all i probably put about 5 hours of effort, taking my sweet time to digest the amount of information.

Looking back, it is not much at all, but enough to be overwhelming when you have no point of reference, and when you are brand new to PC2 like me.
I now realize how arcadey GTS is, but again, different aim and different users/drivers...

I still consider GTS is a great game, much more accessible to the general public...
but for those like me looking for more options to tweak and to adjust more parameters, PC2 is great for that, i wish GTS had these options!
 
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A) STEERING WHEEL CALIBRATION:
The reason i went on to calibrate my wheel again is because the previous night i did a second time around, but messed up the process (or so i thought).
I think i did it correctly the first time around, but for whatever reason, last night i decided to perform a second calibration, doing it a different way from the first time.
I believe in retrospective that it made it worse, my car wasn't turning properly, it was so stupid but i will never know for sure since i did it late in the night (tired), in addition to all the various FFB and sensitivity setting changed... All i can say is that The instruction on the screen on how to calibrate the wheel left a lot to desire, and could be interpreted in many ways...

Since i wasn't sure about the whole thing, here is a clear description on how i did this third (possibly repeated the same process a forth time for good measure)

Project%20CARS%202_20200424001849-L.jpg
That should read 100/900 as you have 900° degrees of rotation on your wheel, forget about the positioning of your wheel, these are the numbers you're looking for to get 1:1 control.

Speed Sensitivity = 50

"Speed Sensitivity allows you to adjust how sensitive your vehicle is in response to your controller! steering input, and how much steering lock is applied, at high speed.
A Higher value will make the vehicle less sensitive with the wheels turning less at higher speeds.
Using a lower value will make the car more twitchy and sensitive to input at high speed, as the wheels will turn more, and at a faster rate."

Is this only applicable to joystick/controllers, not wheels right? The more i read about it, the more i think that this variable does not affect my G29, but i am not sure.
Can anyone please confirm ? @Mr Grumpy may have already answered my questions before i asked.

It still works for a wheel but it's just pointless as you can control how much you turn with a wheel a lot better than with a pad.

You can see/feel this by doing the extreme & set it to 100 1st & your car will hardly turn at speed even though you are on full lock.

Reduce this back to 0 for full 1:1 control at any speed.
 
Dont go crazy and tweak everything at the same time...
Wise words. :P

Now (controversially :)) I actually have speed sensitivity set to 60. I find it helps smooth out my G29's gear drive a little on long fast straights.

Field of View Speed Sensitivity = OFF/NO
Minimum Speed Sensitivity = 95
Maximum Speed Sensitivity = 115
Minimum Speed Sensitive Speed = 45
Maximum Speed Sensitive Speed = 130
If you have FOV SS switched off the 4 options below it have no effect. Having it switched on will cause the camera to pull back as your speed increases. The speed figures are the speeds it happens between, the sensitivity are percentages of your chosen fov figure.

So with those figures and with your helmet cam set at 80°, below 45mph your screen fov will be 76° and then it will gradually increase to 92° at 130mph.


This concludes my research.
Oh I expect you'll find more things as you progress. ;)

By the way, nice rig. Is that a pvc tubing one?
 
Finding the sweet setup settings can be challenging but once you find them, there’s no substitute at least for consoles. AC is a very close second.

The trickiest settings for me were the wheel and view settings.

For the wheel I originally started out using the ‘Immersive’ setting until I felt comfortable with the game. Since then I use Raw but only needed to make minor tweaks from the default. Maybe an increase in volume and gain, but that’s about it. I’ve got all assists off.

The camera settings were the most challenging to get right. I used a FOV calculator and the results weren’t exactly what I would have expected using cockpit and helmet cam. My monitor is 32” and I sit pretty close, but the view was way too close and not comfortable so I backed it off a little. Other settings like speed sensitivity and look to corner I really don’t notice much difference when making adjustments so I keep these pretty much baseline.

Another camera setting I disabled is the camera shake which I found really distracting. I often think the ‘lean and look’ advanced camera settings like are intended for full motion sims, and they don’t do much for those of us running in pancake mode. But they’re nice to have.
 
The camera settings were the most challenging to get right. I used a FOV calculator and the results weren’t exactly what I would have expected using cockpit and helmet cam. My monitor is 32” and I sit pretty close, but the view was way too close and not comfortable so I backed it off a little. Other settings like speed sensitivity and look to corner I really don’t notice much difference when making adjustments so I keep these pretty much baseline.
I started with 70fov after trying what the calculator stated for sofa drivers 1.5m plus away which was 53.
Now I am at 53 before after a few 2months with the game.
It will take time & maybe worth it in the long run to try the recommended.
 
Have a question, is driver's seat position saves for all cars, or only for a chosen? If it's saving for all, will it look ok, or in general I have to change seat position for every car every time?
 
Have a question, is driver's seat position saves for all cars, or only for a chosen? If it's saving for all, will it look ok, or in general I have to change seat position for every car every time?

I don't know the answer, but I have never altered the seat position and just use the default setting I can't remember a car which is undrivable in the standard seating position.

@IfAndOr might know!
 
Have a question, is driver's seat position saves for all cars, or only for a chosen? If it's saving for all, will it look ok, or in general I have to change seat position for every car every time?

It seems to keep moving on me. I rarely needed to adjust it until I lowered the FoV but now I never seem happy with how it starts... and when I change back to cars I've been in recently it never seems the same. So I'm thinking it's a global setting, despite the cars not having a global interior.
 
IfAndOr might know
Seat/viewing position? I often adjust it to suit the car and yes it seems to save the position I adjust it to on each car. I can't say I've ever had to reset it.

but for my liking I wanted to lower position.
Now I'm the reverse in that I often raise it. :)


And my FOV for the cockpit and helmet cameras is around 90° (with speed sensitive adjustment). I've tried but I just can't get on with much lower than that. I find it too restrictive.
 
It seems to keep moving on me. I rarely needed to adjust it until I lowered the FoV but now I never seem happy with how it starts... and when I change back to cars I've been in recently it never seems the same. So I'm thinking it's a global setting, despite the cars not having a global interior.
Remember that when you're setting your FOV settings to turn off the FOV speed settings initially to find the right setting and then match them to your new overall FOV . The FOV Speed settings kind of override that actual FOV so it can be a pain in the tookus.
zoidberg
 
Remember that when you're setting your FOV settings to turn off the FOV speed settings initially to find the right setting and then match them to your new overall FOV . The FOV Speed settings kind of override that actual FOV so it can be a pain in the tookus.
zoidberg
Unless you're minimum fov setting is at 100% at 0 speed, then it will match until you drive :)

Example:
Actual fov 75
Minimum fov 100%
Minimum speed 50
Maximum fov 120%
Maximum speed 250

So when you start & pull away your fov will be 75
Then when you pass 50mph it'll slowly increase to 90 (120% of 75) when/if you reach 250mph
 
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Are you saying that you set those to 100 and 120 respectively as %? Or match the original FOV that you have set such as setting 75 and 90?
There's people all over getting this wrong and people have no clue by the description given. I know I don't have mine set up as percentages. I had to fool around with this for a while (like every bloody other thing in this game). Seems that if your actual FOV is 54, then the minimum FOV should be 54 as well and then extend the maximum to your preference. Now I have to go back in and look at my settings of this because I can't remember how I have it. I don't understand how hard it would have to be for SMS to just put a definitive setup procedure next to this other than making us have to just figure it out.

This guy is just taking guesses too. lol
prepop.gif

 
Are you saying that you set those to 100 and 120 respectively as %? Or match the original FOV that you have set such as setting 75 and 90?
There's people all over getting this wrong and people have no clue by the description given. I know I don't have mine set up as percentages. I had to fool around with this for a while (like every bloody other thing in this game). Seems that if your actual FOV is 54, then the minimum FOV should be 54 as well and then extend the maximum to your preference. Now I have to go back in and look at my settings of this because I can't remember how I have it. I don't understand how hard it would have to be for SMS to just put a definitive setup procedure next to this other than making us have to just figure it out.

This guy is just taking guesses too. lol
prepop.gif



Yes it's a percentage.

If your actual fov is 54 & then you set minimum fov at 54 then you'll actually have 29.16 fov at your chosen minimum speed.
If you set your maximum fov at 120 then you'll hit 64.8 fov at your chosen maximum speed.

This is where the speed sensitivity comes in (using the above example) if your minimum speed is set at 0 & your maximum set at 200 then the second you pull away from a standing start your fov will start to increase from 29.16 upto 64.8 if you reach your designated max speed

You can increase this effect if you increase your minimum speed to 50 & your maximum speed to 150, meaning your original 29.16 fov will not begin to adapt until you hit 50mph then it'll increase quicker upto 64.8 fov because you'll hit 150mph before you hit 200mph (fov will stop being adaptive when you hit your desired maximum speed setting, even if you go over it)

I personally don't use adaptive fov, I have static 75 then just move my seat on all my cars to about this muchScreenshot_20200428-180630_YouTube.jpg Screenshot_20200428-181050_YouTube.jpg as you can see I have so the speedo is just at the bottom & roof line just at the top with my eye line roughly in the middle

Another example is if your fov is 100 & you set minimum fov at 50 then you'll start the race with a fov of 50.
But you could also set your fov as 50 & set minimum fov at 100 & you'll still start the race at 50 fov, because 100% of 50 = 50 & 50% of 100 = 50.
 
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It seems to keep moving on me. I rarely needed to adjust it until I lowered the FoV but now I never seem happy with how it starts... and when I change back to cars I've been in recently it never seems the same. So I'm thinking it's a global setting, despite the cars not having a global interior.

I tested this out today and it does look like what I saw before must have been me being mistaken about where one of the cameras was or something. I hopped in the Mustang for the week's community event just to play with the camera, it was much too far forward so I pulled it waaaay back to be able to see the dash display. When I got back in my 962 the camera position was just fine. So it must be saved per-car as it should. 👍
 
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