The you have some technical problem.
Then your pedals are set up incorrectly... No one else is describing what you experience... Let's start with brand & make.... Presumably you're on Thrustmaster, since they seem to exhibit the problem more.... (I've used Thrustmaster, Fanatec and Logitech and each have different pedal responses).
They are Fanatec V3 load cell brake. I get WOT far, far before my pedal is at max travel. I had my pedals attached to my laptop hoping they had some adjustment for that, I couldn't find anything, it could be because I am computer illiterate though (almost anyway) On a side note I do have problems with my wheel upshifting and downshifting by itself. That problem started 6 months after I bought the wheel, it was sent back to Fanatec to replace the drive motor that shorted out and it came back with that issue. Then it was sent to Fanatec a 2nd time about a month later, they said they could find nothing wrong, I am guessing they didn't try racing with it though. It seems to do it when you have slight pressure on the wheel. I have tried high end USB cables and redundant grounds all to no avail. I get other little issues too, the adjustment menu opens by itself which means when I try to adjust fuel map, brake balance, etc nothing happens on screen until I close the adjustment menu. It happens probably once every 5 minutes while driving.
Clearly you have electrical problems, and if Fanatec says it’s ok the problems are on your end.
I start to get why they are named "Fanatec"
I’ve had good luck with mine, but my point is Fanatec checked his stuff out and it’s OK, apparently.
And yet everything in our house works without issue. Wouldn't also stand to reason that I would have some strange problems with the DS4 also??? Lastly, why did I not have problems until it was returned from a warranty repair at Fanatec? I do diagnostics for a living, believe me you, I have gone thru many possible problems short of replacing parts in my wheel myself.
If Fanatec said it was working when it left there, it was working when it left there. They make the things after all.
Because of my job I see many, many problems after repairs. Techs don't always test things out as completely as they should. I'm also not sure how Fanatec tests their products. I'm assuming they connect them to a digital lab scope to check proper operation. It seems that there is something loose that is causing my issues because it usually up and down shifts when turning and there is FFB load on the wheel. Sometimes I may have to race 10-15 minutes before I have problems, other times a few minutes. If I felt that Fanatec used the highest end products possible I highly doubt that my wheel motor would have burned out in 4 months, I heard a loud electrical short when it failed and the wheel completely stopped working and started flashing what I assume was a diagnostic trouble code when it failed. My guess is that when they repaired it they inadvertently caused the problem I have now, I have seen things like this happen frequently. They would probably have to spend a fair amount of time testing my wheel to experience my issues. When I opened the repair ticket I also sent them a video of the problems happening to me. They had me check the pins in the wheel before and after the second time out for repair which is something one would think they would automatically do if a wheel was returned to them suffering my issues. I would send it back out a 3rd time but I really don't want to go a month without my wheel again, so I live with the problem. As far as my cable routing I have isolated the cables from each other and tried a variety of routing configurations. I have also used my rig on 2 TV's in different rooms on a different circuit breaker but the same house so the same electrical panel. Fanatec suggested that I possibly had static electrify so I also grounded my rig to the house ground circuit with no change, I have since removed that ground. This has been going on for over 3 years now so I am pretty used to it and just accept it because I doubt I will get satisfaction from Fanatec. If they were going to make it right they would have insisted that I send it back a 3rd time and that if they couldn't find anything wrong they would replace it. That would have been the right thing to do since it was in for repairs 2 times within the first year of ownership, unfortunately I think U got a lemon, it happens. I also want a DD and I know Fanatec is really the only game in town for good wheels, I just have a bad taste in my mouth doing business with them at the moment. I'm hoping that at some point I come across another racer who I can hire to fix this problem.
Exactly.
Is it possible to explain onboard calibration?? I have a CSI Elite with v3 load cell pedal set
I gotta thank you for discussing this issue with me. It got me thinking about my problem. I think all I need to do is buy an H pattern shifter, I think using that it should disable the paddle shifters which would hopefully prove the root of my issue.
https://fanatec.com/media/pdf/98/74...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet page 37 of the manual describes how you do it.
Thank you. I suppose I should look at my manual again.
No solution :-(
Thank you! I pre-ordered the Fanatec DD Pro GT bundle 3 weeks ago (about time for an upgrade, current using Clubsport v1 from 2013). But I was wondering if I should order the game before it arrives. Got a T300RS because of GTS, but due the (both) pedal non-linearity I sold it. Played GTS for 2 months until the hype wore off. Returned to GT6 single-player events (the drifts were the nail for GTS).
I have used with CSL Elite pedals the GT DD PRO for a short time and CSW 2.5 (with Drivehub) and both were linear on GT7. I am am now using HE Sprints with the CSW 2.5 and still linear. I created a custom profile on the HE pedals to make the pedals linear on GTS.
