Oil change, Engine overhaul & body rigidity

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Mr_ANDERSON

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DominusAnderson
Other then at the beginning of buying a car, how often (in Kms/Miles) would these 3 need to be done?
 
Just keep an eye on the horsepower. The body rigidity thing, I don't know for sure but I plan on restoring it every 500km.
 
Other then at the beginning of buying a car, how often (in Kms/Miles) would these 3 need to be done?

I like to change the oil fairly frequently. I'd say after every event/championship isn't too often. (It's only 250c, can't hurt)

I've never touched the chassis, but I did preform engine rebuilds on my ZR1 and my MINOLTA, but I didn't notice a difference in the performance of either car so I probably won't bother with that again.
 
Change the oil as frequently as possible. Don't worry about the engine rebuild until you start getting into the 1500 mile and up range. I dunno about body rigidity in GT5, though, as I haven't done it yet.
 
These are some questions ive been trying to answer. Im finally gettin gsome cars upto Mileage that I can give definite answers.

Ok my first answer is the cars oil goes "Off colour at 500miles". Ive only done this with an F430 scuderia but im guessing it will be pretty constant knowing GT as I do. At 500 miles the oil goes to the "dirty" brown colour but the oil light isnt on. Ill try and keep you posted as to when this happens!

Oh and at 500miles my cars BHP actually went up 1bhp.. A new car that had never had a change!
 
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Oil: when it gets dark (~500km?)

Engine: Never, unless it's for a cheap car

Body: Never

Your saying oil gets "dirty" at 500km? Ill check my figures but Im wondering if it doesnt matter if its miles or KM but just 500?
 
I bought two s14's to drift. I did the chassis restore on one and drifted it with no alterations besides diff and unadjusted coilovers and it felt so so.

Drifted the next car with unadjusted suspension and diff and it felt much more sloppy. In short I am sure its a code that PD writes that makes things more tighter and less spongy.
 
Oh and at 500miles my cars BHP actually went up 1bhp.. A new car that had never had a change!

Now see, that is really interesting. I have encountered a certain rarity that others have suggested this might be the reason for. I'm really curious about it.

My issue: I aquired a 0 mile FGT which, after an oil change, had 907 HP whereas the used ones that you would normally get have 935 HP after installing refreshers. Curious indeed.
 
During a championship series I adjusted my gearing and the power went up 2hp. At first I thought, weird, but not really as proper gearing allows the engine to utilize more power in reality. It's very cool that PD added that to the game..
 
Engine break-in.

Yes, that's what I was talking about. I'm hoping someone can provide more datails. Such as, on average how far do you need to drive in order to break in a car? Or, at what point is an engine fully broken in? I realize that these figures are almost certainly different for each car, but I'm sure you can derive an average from several tests in order to find a ballpark number to shoot for.
 
Kaaosherra
Oil: when it gets dark (~500km?)

Engine: Never, unless it's for a cheap car

Body: Never
Your saying oil gets "dirty" at 500km? Ill check my figures but Im wondering if it doesnt matter if its miles or KM but just 500?
I notice my cars start losing HP before the oil goes dark, so I just change the oil when the power drops(on the cars I use often)

Then engine every ~5000Km
Chassis: don't know yet, never done it
 
I don't know for the high-end cars, but for those in and below the 500 hp range I noticed the car would reach its peak power after ~200 miles, slowly gaining HP every 10 miles or so.

The extra HP gained from the engine break-in is, from what I observed, close to 3 % of the car initial power.

FGT 907 -> 935 hp
Honda NSX LM Race Car 496 -> 511 hp
Golf V 197 -> 202 hp
 
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I don't know for the high-end cars, but for those in and below the 500 hp range I noticed the car would reach its peak power after ~200 miles, slowly gaining HP every 10 miles or so.

The extra HP gained from the engine break-in is, from what I observed, close to 3 % of the car initial power.

FGT 907 -> 935 hp
Honda NSX LM Race Car 496 -> 511 hp
Golf V 197 -> 202 hp

This, my FGT going down to 870 hp after a LOT of races then i made the engine re-build and gone to 945 hp like a "new" FGT:tup:
 
This, my FGT going down to 870 hp after a LOT of races then i made the engine re-build and gone to 945 hp like a "new" FGT:tup:

So what's the max for an FGT? 935 or 945? I got a brand new FGT that I need to break in before I go back and try to gold the Formula FGT -_-'
 
engine rebuild every 5000 km or so, my x1 is at 15000 without one and running 1450 hp
chassis rebuild i really dont think does anything because i smash the **** out of my cars.
 
Oil: when it gets dark (~500km?)

Engine: Never, unless it's for a cheap car

Body: Never


Maybe never for a premium car, but for the used car it can gain you lost HP. It also includes and oil change and car wash at no additional charge, PD so nice rebuilding my motor for $20,000 and giving me 300c worth of free service.👍
 
I've been grinding a lot with my Ford GT LM and X1 at Indy (and various enduros), and here's what I've observed:

Engine break-in - fully complete after 300 km/185 miles.

Oil change - right after you bought the car, and after every ~200 km/125 miles, when power starts dropping (the colour will still be yellow, but you DO lose power).

Engine rebuild - after every 5,000 km/3,100 miles (this is when oil change can't restore to peak power). Take note that from 15,000 km/9,320 miles onwards you start to PERMANENTLY lose power, even with rebuild. I have yet to determine whether the permanent loss stops at some point (can you imagine an X1 with the same power as a Fiat 500? :lol:)

Rigidity restore - after every 50,000 km/31,000 miles or so, but this varies from car to car and how you drive it (crash a lot, frequency and severity of turns, etc). Generally, don't do it until you feel the handling isn't as 'sharp' as it used to be, or it becomes really 'nervous' at high speeds. When it starts pulling to one side though, do it ASAP! My X1 has done 60,000+ kms now, and unless I tilt the wheel 10 degrees to the right it won't track straight.

A good 'rule of thumb' is change oil after 5 races or so. Engine rebuild if oil doesn't restore peak power. Never chassis refresh unless you're planning on entering a tough Championship or competitions (WRS, online TT, etc). With expensive cars, it's generally best to never engine/chassis refresh unless you really need that extra bit of performance. That performance-to-cost ratio is very small. You're better off installing the 'Rigidity Improvement' mod at the Tuning Shop (if you haven't already).

Hope that helps :)
 
Engine: Never, unless it's for a cheap car

I do just the opposite. I don't really care about losing a few horsepower on one of my random, disposable cars. I absolutely hate watching something like my Formula GT lose 20 horses, though. I keep my high-end toys as close to tip-top condition as I can. I don't panic a whole lot for those first few missing horses, but when it becomes dozens I desperately desire to get them back. If an old Fiat 500 or Honda Civic loses half its horsepower and the engine suddenly bursts into flames I'll just push the old rust bucket down a hillside into a lake or river and get a new one.
 
Overtime do cars loose hp even after oil change....so my fgt is at 11,000km and after fresh oilchange it has 935hp i believe so does that mean it will always stay at that level after oil change or will it go down?

And if it does decrease will engine restoration boost it back up?
 
Rigidity never cos damage doesn't show so no point! Not had to change the oil yet unless its from the UCD in which case overalling the engine also does the oil and cleans the car!
 
I find the oil can get dark in just a few races - depends on the car...

I do wonder though, at what point it gets cheaper to buy a new version of the car than to overhaul the body and engine... hmmm
 
I accidentally did a rebuild on an X2010 (I was just checking to see how much it cost - 500,000, big surprise) and now the car has 1559 bhp, instead of the 1509 my other one has. Mind the lower hp one has 1 more PP, so go figure
 
To do a tune on my Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car, I did a rebuild of both the engine & chassis last night at a cost of 800k. :( I then took it to Tsukuba for the supercar seasonal to give it a run. After 8 laps of the race, with one minor scrape with an AI, I went back to give it a wash & oil change. Just for the hell of it, I checked on the condition of both. IT WANTS ANOTHER REBUILD OF BOTH FOR ANOTHER 800K!!! :lol: I feel violated! :yuck::ouch::banghead:
 
To do a tune on my Nissan R390 GT1 Road Car, I did a rebuild of both the engine & chassis last night at a cost of 800k. :( I then took it to Tsukuba for the supercar seasonal to give it a run. After 8 laps of the race, with one minor scrape with an AI, I went back to give it a wash & oil change. Just for the hell of it, I checked on the condition of both. IT WANTS ANOTHER REBUILD OF BOTH FOR ANOTHER 800K!!! :lol: I feel violated! :yuck::ouch::banghead:

Just because you CAN throw the entire contents of your wallet with all of your bank account info at a random bum on the street, doesn't mean that you NEED to do so. ;)
 
Yes, that's what I was talking about. I'm hoping someone can provide more datails. Such as, on average how far do you need to drive in order to break in a car? Or, at what point is an engine fully broken in? I realize that these figures are almost certainly different for each car, but I'm sure you can derive an average from several tests in order to find a ballpark number to shoot for.

IRL its 1000 miles, to break a car in.
 
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