POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 504 comments
  • 107,251 views

Have you had any problems with your T300RS/GTE?

  • Total voters
    313
Romeo17
I would have gone for it in a heartbeat except it would costs just about the same as a power converter and takes 3 weeks.In 3 weeks,the holidays(in my country) would be over and I would be back to using it once a week which was what I was trying to avoid.Im clueless as to why the power converter would void the ****ing warranty.
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It really shouldn't. As long as the wheel is only attached to a 110V supply that should fulfill the warranty terms. Obviously they'll still say it 'may' void the warranty... for example if it gets returned to them with damage consistent with applying 240V using the cable intended for 110V.

Romeo17
Will it really lead to a short circuit?
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Very unlikely, I think. With mine there was no risk of that - it was in the right place and secure. Really the issue just seems to be that it's very fussy about where the ends of the spring are - turning the spring puts the cut end of the spring-wire in a different place.

The springs in question are the ones this guy prods at about 6:27...

 
Outspacer
It really shouldn't. As long as the wheel is only attached to a 110V supply that should fulfill the warranty terms. Obviously they'll still say it 'may' void the warranty... for example if it gets returned to them with damage consistent with applying 240V using the cable intended for 110V.



Very unlikely, I think. With mine there was no risk of that - it was in the right place and secure. Really the issue just seems to be that it's very fussy about where the ends of the spring are - turning the spring puts the cut end of the spring-wire in a different place.

The springs in question are the ones this guy prods at about 6:27...

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So using a power converter would not cause problems? Because literally plastered everywhere on the user manual "Never connect this car to a power adapter."
If it won't cause problems, I might get a adapter to run the wheel temporarily,i will then order the scam cable and when it arrives,i can just swap it and everything would be fine.

The more I activate the shifters,the better they seem to feel.There is still something 'off'but a bit of the tactile feeling is back. Not sure what to do now. It certainly didn't feel like when It felt out of the box, but also did not feel like after the crunch.
 
Romeo17
So using a power converter would not cause problems? Because literally plastered everywhere on the user manual "Never connect this car to a power adapter."
If it won't cause problems, I might get a adapter to run the wheel temporarily,i will then order the scam cable and when it arrives,i can just swap it and everything would be fine.
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The manual is warning against using simple $2 plug adapters, which do not convert the voltage - and that's correct, it would harm the wheel.

You know you'd need to step the voltage down to 110V and, assuming you get a converter that does that job decently, it should be fine.


Romeo17
The more I activate the shifters,the better they seem to feel.There is still something 'off'but a bit of the tactile feeling is back. Not sure what to do now. It certainly didn't feel like when It felt out of the box, but also did not feel like after the crunch.
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Hmm, sounds like the spring is turning round a bit by itself, towards its best position. It probably won't get to its optimal position but it might get close enough... keep fingers crossed!
 
Outspacer
The manual is warning against using simple $2 plug adapters, which do not convert the voltage - and that's correct, it would harm the wheel.

You know you'd need to step the voltage down to 110V and, assuming you get a converter that does that job decently, it should be fine.




Hmm, sounds like the spring is turning round a bit by itself, towards its best position. It probably won't get to its optimal position but it might get close enough... keep fingers crossed!
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Im defo not gonna use some $2 plug adapter on a 650 dollar wheel so i think it would be fine.As for the paddle shifters,we will see.
What do u think about my plan though
 
Romeo17
Im defo not gonna use some $2 plug adapter on a 650 dollar wheel so i think it would be fine.As for the paddle shifters,we will see.
What do u think about my plan though
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Plan sounds alright, and the only sure way to get you racing in your holiday! I would get the cable ordered though, who knows, it might arrive more quickly than 3 weeks.
 
Romeo17
crap,my wheel smells burnt
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Of course it does. I told you that you need a different cable. That is because inside the base 110v and 220v are using different pins (out of the 4). So you have probably (and hopefully) just burned your internal power supply. Hopefully, because there are 2 choices.
1. RMA = the only option to get a new wheel as long as you don't tell them that it's your fault because of the converter. Their quality control is not the best and they have often faulty psu's so they won't find it too strange maybe.
2. You can use an external 24V 3A+ switching supply used for leds, which is really cheap and do your job. It's something easy for someone that has simple skills and understanding (you don't) but hopefully someone you know does and you won't lose your vacation time.

Other than that the wheel is an excellent wheel, once you upgrade it a bit (strengthen the hall sensor base with epoxy, change the internal fan to a better one, and have it ALWAYS ON) = equals all voiding warranty but ending with a really reliable wheel. Then you'll really enjoy it and wont worry much.

If you have the patience RMA and upgrade the new wheel. The paddle spring inside the wheel is a coiled wire that if touches any connections it will short circuit. If it is in position you have no problem. But you have to check that.
Also if you are in doubt don't
just hear someone that tells you what you'd like to hear. Search a bit more. Everything I tell you I've searched all over the web and learned first. That's what you should do. Now I fix TM wheels and sell them.
 
asteroulis
Of course it does. I told you that you need a different cable. That is because inside the base 110v and 220v are using different pins (out of the 4). So you have probably (and hopefully) just burned your internal power supply. Hopefully, because there are 2 choices.
1. RMA = the only option to get a new wheel as long as you don't tell them that it's your fault because of the converter. Their quality control is not the best and they have often faulty psu's so they won't find it too strange maybe.
2. You can use an external 24V 3A+ switching supply used for leds, which is really cheap and do your job. It's something easy for someone that has simple skills and understanding (you don't) but hopefully someone you know does and you won't lose your vacation time.

Other than that the wheel is an excellent wheel, once you upgrade it a bit (strengthen the hall sensor base with epoxy, change the internal fan to a better one, and have it ALWAYS ON) = equals all voiding warranty but ending with a really reliable wheel. Then you'll really enjoy it and wont worry much.

If you have the patience RMA and upgrade the new wheel. The paddle spring inside the wheel is a coiled wire that if touches any connections it will short circuit. If it is in position you have no problem. But you have to check that.
Also if you are in doubt don't
just hear someone that tells you what you'd like to hear. Search a bit more. Everything I tell you I've searched all over the web and learned first. That's what you should do. Now I fix TM wheels and sell them.
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NVM,i think i will refund and get it locally.
 
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Apart from random button presses, which disappeared with a Firmware update, I didn´t have any issues for the roughly 2 1/2 years own ownig it. Yesterday it lost forcefeedback and now doesn´t start up any more. Instead it just spins to the left and right lock positions in a rather forceful way when starting up and the Playstation doesn´t even recognize it as a Controller.
I have contacted Support but I have the Feeling I ´ll be Shopping for a new Wheel shortly. Pity really since I liked the Wheel, especially with the F1 rim.
 
@Ecghteow* I had that problem and Thrustmaster replaced the base beacuse it was less than 2 years old. It is a common problem. I did read a link where somebody took the motor apart and cleaned it and it worked again but I do not remember where I read it. So if you want to try and fix it then do a bit of googling. It did not look to complicated.
 
Ecghteow
Yesterday it lost forcefeedback and now doesn´t start up any more. Instead it just spins to the left and right lock positions in a rather forceful way when starting up and the Playstation doesn´t even recognize it as a Controller.
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Ok, first of all don't power it up again because this forceful calibration can break the axis's plastics and there is no turning back.
Then, open up the wheel base and check the plastic hall sensor base which sonetimes breaks. Very common problem and you can replace it with a 3d printed one.
Secondly see if the belt is loose and if it is tighten it a bit by loosening the motor and pushing it upwards and retightening. Don't tighten too much.
Lastly there is a possibility that the usb cable has a problem as well which could be solved with resoldering a new usb cable by someone that knows how to of course. Small possibility though.

PaulDiRoosta
@Ecghteow* I had that problem and Thrustmaster replaced the base beacuse it was less than 2 years old. It is a common problem. I did read a link where somebody took the motor apart and cleaned it and it worked again but I do not remember where I read it. So if you want to try and fix it then do a bit of googling. It did not look to complicated.
Click to expand...
This solution isn't that easy for someone without the tools and knowledge, but a good point nevertheless.
 
PaulDiRoosta
@Ecghteow* I had that problem and Thrustmaster replaced the base beacuse it was less than 2 years old. It is a common problem. I did read a link where somebody took the motor apart and cleaned it and it worked again but I do not remember where I read it. So if you want to try and fix it then do a bit of googling. It did not look to complicated.
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I already contacted Support. Since it´s well older than two years I´ll just wait for their Reply before I start Messing with the internals.

asteroulis
Ok, first of all don't power it up again because this forceful calibration can break the axis's plastics and there is no turning back.
Then, open up the wheel base and check the plastic hall sensor base which sonetimes breaks. Very common problem and you can replace it with a 3d printed one.
Secondly see if the belt is loose and if it is tighten it a bit by loosening the motor and pushing it upwards and retightening. Don't tighten too much.
Lastly there is a possibility that the usb cable has a problem as well which could be solved with resoldering a new usb cable by someone that knows how to of course. Small possibility though.


This solution isn't that easy for someone without the tools and knowledge, but a good point nevertheless.
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I actually will have to power it up once more as Support asks for a Video.
 
Refunded and am shipping it back.Gonna get a local t300 I found for 475sgd or 355.70 usd that comes with a year of local warranty and 220v plug.
Does this sound like a good deal or should I,since it's my first wheel,go for a used but surprisingly good 9.5 conditioned g27 for 220sgd or 164.74 usd.

EDIT:G27 has no seller warranty or some **** like that but I have a few videos of it that the seller kindly sent me.Apparently the only problem is the wire is slightly "chipped and peeled off" but he has duct taped it already.Checked his profile and saw that he recently sold his whole gaming rig and his gaming laptop and his gaming pc and only left a console so I think I can negotiate.He seems desperate
 
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My Thrustmaster of 3 years died, so after dealing with customer support, I decided to order a brand new base direct from Thrustmaster. I got the new unit today and while playing GT-Sport on my PS4-Pro the unit died and started to screw up in it's autocalibration. I am stunned that it just went wrong so quickly, I don't even know what the hell could cause this?
 
After asking more about what Thrustmaster are going to do once they have my base, they told me if they repair the unit, it will be tested non-stop for 24 hours before they send it back to me.

They will take about 2-3 working days to work on it and test, then send it back. The turnaround will be 2 weeks from when I send it off, to me getting the unit back.

The delay in getting anything sorted is down to only being able to use emails. If you call the EU phone number for the company that deals with the European head office is a French number. It seems to take about 3+ hours for the staff to replay to an email. They always sent an auto reply within 5+ mins confirming they have received an email.

You can not get any free repairs or replacements done without sending them the following.

  • An upload of a video showing the unit doing the failed auto calibration
  • A picture showing the serial number
  • A copy of the devices invoice
  • Name, Address and Contact number

This seems to take them a full working day to be checked. Once they have done this, they asked me what I wanted doing next. They would refund me or they would go ahead getting the courrier service organised. When I gave them my choice, they took another full day approved and the label emailed and then is up to you to drop off at a post office.

Each step seems to add on more days each time, which is why it takes so long to get sorted out.
 
Just an update for those who were interested. I sent the wheel off using the prepaid postage slip they emailed me. I went from the UK to France with Parcelforce and then Collissimo took over. Some how they had got the packaged sent on the wrong truck and they had to hunt it down and get it sent to Thrustmaster.

This I am not happy about, as I've now been without a working unit for a couple of weeks and with them basically only answering one email per day, it is taking forever to get some answers. This is really subpar customer support, which pisses me off a great deal.
 
Man it is sobering to read through all of these problems, I am sorry some of you are going through all this.

I bought a Fanatec CSR Elite the day it released in 2011.
That wheel has well over 5000 hours on it and it has never even coughed, I don't understand why Thrustmaster is having all these issues still.
 
Corsa
Man it is sobering to read through all of these problems, I am sorry some of you are going through all this.

I bought a Fanatec CSR Elite the day it released in 2011.
That wheel has well over 5000 hours on it and it has never even coughed, I don't understand why Thrustmaster is having all these issues still.
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I think the end of your comment is the key point (STILL) , I went with Thrustmaster, hoping the new base I would get, would be some revision that would have eliminated the problem my original base suffered.

Before my original unit died, I had been really happy with the unit. It's got a great level of control on the FFB and it feels a nice weight. For me to have a brand new unit have the same fault within 30 mins of getting it, is something that should never have happened.

If it was not for the fact I have the Thrustmaster 3PA premium pedals, I would have gone over to Fantatec in a flash, but due to being a PS4Pro player, I am limited.
 
Felix
I think the end of your comment is the key point (STILL) , I went with Thrustmaster, hoping the new base I would get, would be some revision that would have eliminated the problem my original base suffered.

Before my original unit died, I had been really happy with the unit. It's got a great level of control on the FFB and it feels a nice weight. For me to have a brand new unit have the same fault within 30 mins of getting it, is something that should never have happened.

If it was not for the fact I have the Thrustmaster 3PA premium pedals, I would have gone over to Fantatec in a flash, but due to being a PS4Pro player, I am limited.
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Agreed if we look at pricing vs. longevity I would of highly suggested the new CSL elite.

The T300 is $350 correct?
The Fanatec is $500.

It is quite a bit more but thinking of reliability and build quality there is no comparison.

I understand the T3PA's, I have a set they're fantastic.
I'm on PC anything is compatible but you do have options.
Basherboard makes an adapter, or Drivehub would work.

I hope TM gets you fixed up quickly.
 
Felix
If it was not for the fact I have the Thrustmaster 3PA premium pedals, I would have gone over to Fantatec in a flash, but due to being a PS4Pro player, I am limited.
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Have you heard about Drive Hub?
 
Felix
I've not sorry, could you explane if this would be of use to a ps4 gamer?
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Drive Hub is a small USB converter device that makes many wheels compatible with PS4. Follow the links in my signature for more details (there's a list of supported wheels).
 
VBR
Drive Hub is a small USB converter device that makes many wheels compatible with PS4. Follow the links in my signature for more details (there's a list of supported wheels).
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The issue is getting my Thrustmaster 3PA pedals working with a more engineered wheel from someone like Fantatic with my PS4 (mainly for GT-Sport).

I don't know of a PC game that has a similar vibe, that can make me want to totally build up a new gaming PC for (my current gaming PC that I have not used for years, is based on an old Quad core running at 3.7ghz, but with only DDR2 RAM!
 

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