POLL: Thrustmaster T300RS/GTE Reliability Poll

  • Thread starter VBR
  • 504 comments
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Have you had any problems with your T300RS/GTE?

  • Total voters
    313
I had emails from both Thrustmasters customer support AND their parent company apologising. My base unit was recieved yesterday and was moved to the front of the entire que to be sorted out. I guess the last two emails I sent were pissy enough that it kinda got my point across. I even have tried my luck for asking for some freebies and compensation for the massive delays in getting stuff sorted. I only want the 599 wheel but I am just happy that either a new or fixed base is being sent before the end of the week to me.
 
My T3PA pedals have broken after 6 months use.
I'm replacing them with G29 pedals as I'm tired of TM stuff breaking.
 
This garbage it is at 144 euros in amazom es right now.

Its still super overpriced even on sale.
144 euros its still too much for the hassle of having to send it back to repair after a few hours of use. It should cost only the price to use it, toss away in the bin when gets broken and buy a new one. Like a consumable. like a razor blade or something. Like 20 or 30 euros not more. The interior is so cheap that the production cost must be 2 or 3 euros, so 20 or 30 euros should be the right price. Thats why they dont go bankruptcy with the repairs. Production cost 3 euros, sould by 300 euros.

You read the reviews and even the 3 start reviews has people saying its the second and third wheel they have.
 
foxymop
This garbage it is at 144 euros in amazom es right now.

Its still super overpriced even on sale.
144 euros its still too much for the hassle of having to send it back to repair after a few hours of use. It should cost only the price to use it, toss away in the bin when gets broken and buy a new one. Like a consumable. like a razor blade or something. Like 20 or 30 euros not more. The interior is so cheap that the production cost must be 2 or 3 euros, so 20 or 30 euros should be the right price. Thats why they dont go bankruptcy with the repairs. Production cost 3 euros, sould by 300 euros.

You read the reviews and even the 3 start reviews has people saying its the second and third wheel they have.
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If its overpriced there are alternatives to the market. Every consumerproduct manufacturer has lemons once in a while. If you had bad experience with this wheel I would higly recommend the Fanatec CSL elite. Also the G29 from Logitech. In my opinion I dont think its overpriced at all if you compare it to other wheels on the market, but adequately priced.
 
When calibrating the wheel on PS4, it doesn't go fully to the left and rotates slowly. Then, it rotates fully right quickly. It then centres off-centre about 3 degrees to the right. Any ideas on how to fix the calibration problem as well as the slow rotation?
 
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DaGiBUS
When calibrating the wheel on PS4, it doesn't go fully to the left and rotates slowly. Then, it rotates fully right quickly. It then centres off-centre about 3 degrees to the right. Any ideas on how to fix the calibration problem as well as the slow rotation?
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Is there a problem with the force feedback during gameplay?
Is the warranty still valid?
You can try to solve the problem with off-centre by helping the wheel to turn fully to the left.
Also you can try this.
 
super_gt
Is there a problem with the force feedback during gameplay?
Is the warranty still valid?
You can try to solve the problem with off-centre by helping the wheel to turn fully to the left.
Also you can try this.
Click to expand...
There seems to be a FFB issue with it being not as strong. It also needs more steering input especially through fast, sweeping corners. I don't think the warranty is still valid unfortunately.
 
DaGiBUS
There seems to be a FFB issue with it being not as strong. It also needs more steering input especially through fast, sweeping corners. I don't think the warranty is still valid unfortunately.
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Did you try T300 motor calibration tool?(in the link I gave you)
If you have a multimeter, you can check if the power supply is working properly.
Also check whether the plastic holder of the hall sensor is not broken like this:



And third you may have this problem:

https://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/...r-spec-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=224490

Maybe @Corsa will be able to help you.
 
To have any kind of idea of what's going on we need to hook your wheel up to a PC, update the firmware, see if bootloader is throwing a code, then test using the control panel.

I suspect it's yet another heat related issue as the 300 has an internal power supply. FFB fade is almost always a heat issue.

Need more information do you have a PC, what game is this occurring with?

Edit: Sorry I forgot to address the calibration issue.
If TM calibration software does not correct it then more than likely the motor magnetic core has worked loose from the shaft. This is very fixable, but does require you to disassemble the motor.
 
Last edited:
super_gt
Did you try T300 motor calibration tool?(in the link I gave you)
If you have a multimeter, you can check if the power supply is working properly.
Also check whether the plastic holder of the hall sensor is not broken like this:



And third you may have this problem:

https://www.isrtv.com/forums/topic/...r-spec-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=224490

Maybe @Corsa will be able to help you.
Click to expand...

It seems my hall sensor holder is cracked where around where a screw sits unfortunately.
 
Corsa
If TM calibration software does not correct it then more than likely the motor magnetic core has worked loose from the shaft. This is very fixable, but does require you to disassemble the motor.
Click to expand...

I have a broken T300 sitting in the closet and would gladly dismantle to try and fix. Do you have any more info.... video....set of directions....pictures. Any help would be appreciated by all.
 
SGETI
I have a broken T300 sitting in the closet and would gladly dismantle to try and fix. Do you have any more info.... video....set of directions....pictures. Any help would be appreciated by all.
Click to expand...

I don't have any video or pictures.

The problem is finding parts as it's the same issue with the metal stop breaking off the shaft, causing the rotary sensor to malfunction, or the core itself has come loose.

This is why I'm always looking for cheap used wheels for donors, TM won't sell us the parts.

Here is a decent video to get the shell off yours to the point you can look inside and see what is going on. We can go from there .

 
Thanks for the video, I used that video to install a fan on my base. I sure someone who has not removed the cover will appreciate.

I have removed and re-assembled the cover more times than I care to omit. You say it is an easy fix , and I have no reason to doubt you, however saying and showing are two different things.

Hopefully sometime in the near future you will be able to help us all and post your easy fix so others may benefit and revive their dead wheel.
 
Update:
I received the replacement hall sensor holder earlier in the week and installed it onto my T300rs. Initially, the issue seemed to be fixed, albeit with the wheel calibrating slower than before and the FFB feeling slightly different with it feeling slightly less responsive. Whilst racing last night, I noticed the FFB become extremely floaty with barely any response at all. I decided to recalibrate the wheel, only to notice the issue had resurfaced.

I tore the wheel down again and saw the part not sitting flush like it should be. I then compared the two parts to each other and noticed the replacement had rims on the screw holes that were risen compared to the original factory part that had broken. So, I took the potentially poor initiative of filing the risen parts down to no success at all.

At this point I have no clue what is wrong with my wheel. It seems interesting how initially the problem seemed semi-fixed. Any ideas?
 
DaGiBUS
Update:
I received the replacement hall sensor holder earlier in the week and installed it onto my T300rs. Initially, the issue seemed to be fixed, albeit with the wheel calibrating slower than before and the FFB feeling slightly different with it feeling slightly less responsive. Whilst racing last night, I noticed the FFB become extremely floaty with barely any response at all. I decided to recalibrate the wheel, only to notice the issue had resurfaced.

I tore the wheel down again and saw the part not sitting flush like it should be. I then compared the two parts to each other and noticed the replacement had rims on the screw holes that were risen compared to the original factory part that had broken. So, I took the potentially poor initiative of filing the risen parts down to no success at all.

At this point I have no clue what is wrong with my wheel. It seems interesting how initially the problem seemed semi-fixed. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Do this, it will give some idea what the problem might be to @Corsa.
Corsa
To have any kind of idea of what's going on we need to hook your wheel up to a PC, update the firmware, see if bootloader is throwing a code, then test using the control panel.
Click to expand...
 
super_gt
Do this, it will give some idea what the problem might be to @Corsa.
Click to expand...
I updated the firmware, on PC when calibrating it rotates very slowly completely left and then very quickly completely right, and then returning to centre. It is recognised on the PC.
 
DaGiBUS
I updated the firmware, on PC when calibrating it rotates very slowly completely left and then very quickly completely right, and then returning to centre. It is recognised on the PC.
Click to expand...
You have to check whether the power supply is working properly.
 
super_gt
You will need a multimeter.Here's a video which can help:

Click to expand...

I don't understand how the power supply could be causing the issue, the only idea I have is that it's not providing enough power to the motor, but then again the calibration to the right is of correct speed (although it doesn't slow at the centre like it should).
 
DaGiBUS
I don't understand how the power supply could be causing the issue, the only idea I have is that it's not providing enough power to the motor, but then again the calibration to the right is of correct speed (although it doesn't slow at the centre like it should).
Click to expand...
I just gave you a suggestion, but I may be wrong.
 
DaGiBUS
Is there anything else that could lead to the issue I'm currently having?
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I'm at work right now. Is there any way you can throw a quick video here (with decent audio) so I can see exactly what it's doing?

I haven't been around here much so covered up with Fanatec repairs lately.
Honestly I'm exhausted with the T300 it never should of went into production with an internal power supply, weak shaft neck and that damn hall sensor.
I can't think of a wheel that's had more issues, the T150 is a more reliable product.
Oh well rant over I'll try to help you but no promises they're aggravating.
 

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