Project R

  • Thread starter Mr Latte
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Mr Latte
...Dont forget these subs are utilising L/C/R channels so they do not necessarily need really low end frequency extension performance. I had to keep that in mind. I dont really have much options for size of enclosure but could also try a ported option on one side during testing.

What you think?
Click to expand...

I think seald enclosures will be the best fit for you. You'll need more amp power, sure, but with all the drivers in your finished setup the last thing you need are uncontrolled cone movements. Across the frequency range you use them, along with EQ, I think the sealed enclosures will give you a flatter response and remain tight and controlled at ALL volumes (like when you crank it up). Vented ? Not so much. YMMV

Your project looks great !đź‘Ť

Scotty
 
Thanks for the motivation lads, do need it at times...
This build is a hobby, thing to enjoy and its not great when I'm not enjoying certain parts of it. Guess I feel a bit down recently too.
Have ordered more tools and metal cutters for the tubing. Cheap ones don't last.

Scooty, I think I will test without the port holes first and see how they are.
Their is the possibility I will change the larger centre 12" sub to use LFE instead of being a centre channel. Reasons explained later...

If I dont get that good of a sound from the closed box then I may make an identical sized box seperate and test a port hole on that.
Better doing this right rather than hoping for the best.
 
Forgot to ask are their any readers here that use a dome type screen?

Here is TOOB that looks to be partnering with Optoma/Vision Racer.
PCs may use software for optomising the screens.

I wonder though how consoles are with just the actual console video output?
Going to contact these guys as they seem to be based between Glasgow/Edinburgh.

Id consider buying and reviewing/promoting...

 
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^^ Looks like a fairly blurry image, I wouldn't trust that type of display yet. To line up the projector in a dome is impossible without suffering some type of image stretching.
I think 3 high-end monitors (or projectors) would still be better.
 
Well yeah I have a few concerns too, like if it adds in some ways but spoils in others. Is it a case of getting some form of depth perception at the cost of dodgy alignment or distorted image? Well those are concerns I think most people will have.

In the above video they discuss a comparison to competing options like multi-screens. Weird though as do they miss the whole benefit of triple displays? This being of course it is typically 3x screens wide like a panoramic and giving much more immersion from games not utilising a single width screen.

This TOOB however could be great particularly on single screen games and when using 3D projectors. I'm curious how good it would be over a traditional flatscreen. I like the concept and FREX etc have used DOME type screens as do many high end "Aircraft Cockpit Simulators" so they must have some good benefits.

Really keen to find out more so will keep you guys posted...
 
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Mr Latte
....Scooty, I think I will test without the port holes first and see how they are.
Their is the possibility I will change the larger centre 12" sub to use LFE instead of being a centre channel. Reasons explained later...

If I dont get that good of a sound from the closed box then I may make an identical sized box seperate and test a port hole on that.
Better doing this right rather than hoping for the best.
Click to expand...

When you test try really small ports as well. I just think you're after accuracy not efficeincy. On the 12" center, that enclosure is REALLY small.Maybe drill holes in the framework to open up a lot more volume ? With 3/4" MDF top and bottom several (many) 1-1/2" holes internally in the 2 by 4's won't affect your strength requirements. Good luck.

Scotty
 


This would be a better way to go than the dome I think. Until they can figure out the picture quality with the dome at least.
 
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Scoddee, thanks for your input.

Your probably right and indeed its a flawed design that the biggest sub has the smallest enclosure. It has convinced me to rectify that yet still give some support preventing the MDF top to dip in the centre. Crucial as that's a section a user would be standing before sitting in the seat.

Regards using a port hole if doing so what is yours and other peoples thoughts on where then it should be placed. Close or far away from the actual subwoofer driver? remember I have 2" ones ready to use...


Rad, what were you trying to show as an alternative or you mean just a blank screen?
I've been able to arrange the opportunity of testing the Beta model of the TOOB with Dirt 3 in 3D and giving a review on the experience thanks to Alexander in Scotland. Depends if I can fit the time in to travel over their to give it a go...
 
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How about now? I think its fixed prior one was working on my screen. Sorry.
 
I found this Mr Latte,

"1.04 - What happens if the box is too small?
If the box is too small will typically result in a boomy system that appears to have strong midbass and less low bass. Typically power-handling is improved though, unless the box is REALLY too small! You can compensate somewhat for a small box volume by adding stuffing to the box. The stuffing can make the box appear up to 40% larger to the driver. Note that sealed systems are generally a lot more tolerant of variation in box volume than are the other tuned-port systems such as the ported and bandpass systems."

at this link http://www.diysubwoofers.org/faq.htm

Scotty
 
Points taken about the enclosure and ports.
Will see how I get on without the port holes and using the fatmat.
Can anyone recommend sponge/foam type material that may improve the sound also?

Jav, my biggest problem is limited free time and I enjoy the simpleness of console gaming. I do like the benefits of some PC sims but feel while tempted if I go that direction I wont really have the time to enjoy consoles and PC sims. A new highend PC offering triple screen gaming with all the eye candy in titles like Shift 2 and Dirt 3 is quite a bit of money to spend on games I wont play that much.

Ive got loads more playing to do in GT5 / Dirt 3 / Shift 2 and upcoming games like FM4 / F1 2011.
 
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When you ask about a sponge/foam type material to improve sound, do you mean something to put inside the enclosure?

If so, you can use polyfill, which is a polyester product used for for filling pillows and cushions. I used to buy it at fabric stores and use it in sealed boxes to tighten up the sound of subwoofers that had issues with over-excursion. It helps with dampening.
 
Yeah just wondered about speaker dampening and if it would even be needed. I also seen foam tyles but those can go into a bit of money.

I guess trial n error is in order as some of you recommend doing port holes which I bought and others recommend not to use them as it might complicate getting a better sound. Nobody has given advice as to the positioning of the port holes should be and bearing in mind the enclosures are quite unusual in their dimensions I guess nobody really can be certain.

Hope to get some work done next week and to be in a position to begin testing the subs.
Ive just not had the free time past few weeks.
 
Mr Latte, I apologise if this has been covered/discussed/dismissed in previous posts, but in a 31 page thread I cannot be sure that it hasn't.

Have you a current estimate of the cost of the project to date? And a forecast total budget?

Many thanks.
 
It is a rather complexed project.

Their isn't a budget amount. I just put to it what I can afford at the time and have been for over two years. New ideas and things get added as this thread illustrates. That's been part of the problem in it not having a finalised or set plan but it has allowed it to grow into what it has.

As for costs, I feel it will be worth what I put into it.
 
Mr Latte
.....I guess trial n error is in order as some of you recommend doing port holes which I bought and others recommend not to use them as it might complicate getting a better sound. Nobody has given advice as to the positioning of the port holes should be and bearing in mind the enclosures are quite unusual in their dimensions I guess nobody really can be certain........
Click to expand...

I read in one place a 2" port should be placed at least 2" away from any intersecting wall another article said twice the port diameter away.. Otherwise placement seems to be wide open except for bandpass type enclosures. I don't think that applies to your situation. I've seen manufacturers use an optional foam plug inserted right in the port itself for the purchaser to tune at home.
 
scoddee
I read in one place a 2" port should be placed at least 2" away from any intersecting wall another article said twice the port diameter away.. Otherwise placement seems to be wide open except for bandpass type enclosures. I don't think that applies to your situation. I've seen manufacturers use an optional foam plug inserted right in the port itself for the purchaser to tune at home.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I appreciate this...
It may be that with the "Fatmat" their wont be much problems, err with a bit of luck.
If their is then I will go with the port hole option to try and find a solution.

Hope to do this during the week or weekend.
Got the new tools and bits n bobs I needed.
 
So while nothing much has been happening time to perhaps show some inspiration not shown before for the actual race frame.


7M7f8.jpg

I have had a rollcage idea in mind.


doXJ6.jpg

Came across this at Larne Harbour on a recent trip to Scotland.
This chrome rollcage really got me thinking and I am looking to incorporate something similar.
 
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Hi,
I am just start down the path of transducers; I have a couple with a couple more coming.
Thanks for all the info, its been of great help in working out what I need to do.

I was wondering how much you have to adjust the EQ from car to car / track to track?
I appreciate that the 31 Channel EQers are much better than the home 7 channel ones, but if you have to move the EQ a lot then the fact that the home ones have memory might be nice.

Just have 3 or 4 presets done and zap to the relevant one.
 
Hi their...

Too early for me to say as the full audio configuration has not yet been connected and tested. I don't intend to make constant changes with EQ however the ability is available to do so if desired. Well that's the plan if it all works as I expect it to and their are no issues.

Your right that having presets would be handy. However making changes via a digital system is more tedious working within the menus/controls.
 
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The one that I have at home has 3 hot buttons on the front, so swapping is very easy.
I did find two of those 31 channel ones you have on ebay, but they had just gone :(

Was thinking two of these would have to do:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/American-..._Effects_MJ&hash=item336a15c1be#ht_1988wt_922

I also just got a dedicated 5.1 box from China, saves having to tie up another pre-processor/ amp just to do the decoding:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-MOCHA...263?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c16d638b7
 
My own advice would be to compare/research for information or reviews on any of the hardware you buy. I made sure even though buying second hand that I was getting something that was well reviewed or performed well.
 
Found reviews of the decoder; seems to be good.
As for the EQs, nowt about for them; guess I will have to be the one to do the review :)
 
Okay well let us know how you get on.
Have some fun trying tactile on different channels it very much requires a little experimentation.
 
You bet I will.
I have 3 of the Clerks and 1 of the auras, and a 12" sub if I can find room for it :)

Now if only the ruddy game would support the G27 all would be fine.
Oh well, I bet F1 2011 will.
 
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