[PS4] MONDAYS - Look for us on Project cars 2Finished 

Skip7950
Actually you are right, because Sick can set the room so either car can be used, but even eryone will need to own the car. I am going to open the practice room now...
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Hi Skip - what does this mean? I'm doing the first 3 rounds with the Mustang then 3 with the BMW. If people who haven't got the cars have to drive what I drive then I ma need to alter the car assignments before round 1 (but after this test round).

There will be 2 x 10 minute test races.
 
buybon355
Bought the pack. I like the BMW but the mustang wears its tyres out too quickly
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From the voice chat I heard that other people were also having a tyre wear problem with the Mustang. I will have a look at the room settings - tyre wear off would be best.

I did a lot of testing with both these cars including full length race simulations, but didn't have any tyre wear problems, but maybe the room settings were different in our test races today.

@Skip7950 Regarding your connection - if you can't use an extension lead consider using a Powerline Home Networking kit - I did suggest this to @nonka (Maximusmonster) as it can be an answer to connection problems - the modem is connected to a powerline adapter which feeds the internet signal through your domestic wiring - a second powerline adapter, which is plugged in close to the PS4, then picks up that signal and the PS4 is fitted with a wired connection to the adapter. I bought a kit including the necessary cables and two adapters from PC World for £25.

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/searc...xx/powerline+home+networking/xx-criteria.html
 
I had did most of my testing in the Mustang, BMW seems too have some understeer.

Good race with Sick untill I came off down Paddock Hill.

You should be able get something like that Skip.
 
Sick Cylinder
From the voice chat I heard that other people were also having a tyre wear problem with the Mustang. I will have a look at the room settings - tyre wear off would be best.

I did a lot of testing with both these cars including full length race simulations, but didn't have any tyre wear problems, but maybe the room settings were different in our test races today.

@Skip7950 Regarding your connection - if you can't use an extension lead consider using a Powerline Home Networking kit - I did suggest this to @nonka (Maximusmonster) as it can be an answer to connection problems - the modem is connected to a powerline adapter which feeds the internet signal through your domestic wiring - a second powerline adapter, which is plugged in close to the PS4, then picks up that signal and the PS4 is fitted with a wired connection to the adapter. I bought a kit including the necessary cables and two adapters from PC World for £25.

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/search-keywords/xx_xx_xx_xx_xx/powerline+home+networking/xx-criteria.html
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I really appreciate the advice. The problem is this kind of device requires both ends to be able to plug into same electrical circuit, like one would have in your house. My racing rig is in my shop building, wholly separate from my house. Electrical going to the shop is a completely separate circuit from power pole...no common junction at all.
Like Maximus, I live way out in the country 65 miles from the nearest city. Here, internet service is always poor in the sparse population areas like mine. Our service has a maximum of 10 mg. So at best we get around 8 to 9 in actuality. This is enough to run online racing...which I have been doing for about a year now. The issues we have nowadays is the sudden drop off of service locally that everyone suspects is due to a company who has started here in town and grown like wildfire the last year. The have 11 buildings and 450 employees in our town now, and are the biggest online purveyor of their product line in the world these days. So, they have probably 200 hundred computers online at any one moment, with peak times that vary between mid afternoon and late evening. We now get these random, sudden service drops where we can go from 9mb to 200kb...like happened to me today. Either I get kicked out line, or I suddenly get severe lag on the signal.
We are all bugging Century Link to dramatically increase level of service to accommodate us all, but just get vague promises of help. Here in USA, government intervention in this sort of matter is almost non existent.
So, anyway, I already have installed a wireless booster that has given me about the same signal in my shop as in my house, but when we have the drop offs, it affects the whole area...therefore even directly hardwiring with Ethernet will not help.
If I am causing issues for you all by my problem affecting your racing, please tell me honestly...I will then withdraw from the league. It would be only fair.
Otherwise, we might just have to put up with my not being able to race Everytime. Last Wednesday I had no problems and finished the race just fine...just never know when this is going to happen!
So sorry everyone......
 
Sick Cylinder
From the voice chat I heard that other people were also having a tyre wear problem with the Mustang. I will have a look at the room settings - tyre wear off would be best.

I did a lot of testing with both these cars including full length race simulations, but didn't have any tyre wear problems, but maybe the room settings were different in our test races today.

@Skip7950 Regarding your connection - if you can't use an extension lead consider using a Powerline Home Networking kit - I did suggest this to @nonka (Maximusmonster) as it can be an answer to connection problems - the modem is connected to a powerline adapter which feeds the internet signal through your domestic wiring - a second powerline adapter, which is plugged in close to the PS4, then picks up that signal and the PS4 is fitted with a wired connection to the adapter. I bought a kit including the necessary cables and two adapters from PC World for £25.

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/search-keywords/xx_xx_xx_xx_xx/powerline+home+networking/xx-criteria.html
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I thought we already ran with tire wear off?????
 
Not sure it's tyre wear, more tyre over heating. After a five minutes my rears were red. Once that happens you can't get the power down or carry the same speed through the corners. I didn't see the tyre icon decrease in size, so you may be right it's not wear related. Don't know what the solution is.
 
Skip7950
I thought we already ran with tire wear off?????
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I checked the room settings this morning and tyre wear was off.

As @buybon355 said it is tyre over heating. My tyres didn't over heat during the ten minute test race or during 30 minute simulations so perhaps this is down to driving style.

Of all the tracks on the schedule Brands Hatch Indy is probably the one most likely to cause tyre over heating (perhaps followed by Willow Springs?). I think we have 3 options:

1. To carry on unchanged - I wouldn't have a problem with this as I don't think my tyres will over heat (but I don't want other people to end up retiring or leaving the series because of this problem).

OR

2. Just race the BMW 2002 Turbo

OR

3. Race just the BMW for 3 rounds and just the Mustang for 3 rounds.

I would be happy with any of these 3 options - let me know which you guys would prefer and we will go with the majority decision.
 
Sick Cylinder
I checked the room settings this morning and tyre wear was off.

As @buybon355 said it is tyre over heating. My tyres didn't over heat during the ten minute test race or during 30 minute simulations so perhaps this is down to driving style.

Of all the tracks on the schedule Brands Hatch Indy is probably the one most likely to cause tyre over heating (perhaps followed by Willow Springs?). I think we have 3 options:

1. To carry on unchanged - I wouldn't have a problem with this as I don't think my tyres will over heat (but I don't want other people to end up retiring or leaving the series because of this problem).

OR

2. Just race the BMW 2002 Turbo

OR

3. Race just the BMW for 3 rounds and just the Mustang for 3 rounds.

I would be happy with any of these 3 options - let me know which you guys would prefer and we will go with the majority decision.
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I would say because of unknown racing factors throughout the season driving the Mustang (being essentially a street car), that using only the 2002 would be my vote....option 2.
 
Note: After much deliberation I have gone with option 4!

Season 3 will be for the BMW 2002 Turbo - the thread has been amended to reflect this and the series has been renamed the Dieter Quester Cup in honour of the great racer who drove a BMW 2002 Ti to victory in the ETCC in 1968. His car had been fitted with a turbo by BMW boosting power to 270bhp. A few years later the 170bhp BMW 2002 Turbo road car was announced.

Season 4 is unchanged and is for the Ford Escort RS1600.

Season 5 is for the Mercedes AMG 6.8 litre saloon or the BMW 2002 Stance Works - You will be able to choose either car and can switch between them during the season if you wish, according to personal preference.

Season 6 will be for the Ford Mustang Fastback 2+2.

Season 7 remains unchanged and is for the BMW Pro Car.

Project Cars 2 - This will need a month or two of testing before commencing online racing. I don't know when it will be released - plenty of notice will be given before we start to use PC2. They are saying late 2017 - to me that spells December!

I am hoping to pre-order the game with a Season Pass. From reading the Project Cars 2 section of the site it appears that Pre-ordering gives access to a Japanese car pack and the Season Pass includes a V12 E Type Jaguar race car. Below please find a link to an old British Leyland promotional film shot shortly after the retirement of the E Type (replaced by the Jaguar XJS) showing the Group 44 Quaker State car which will feature in the game competing with the similar Huffaker car - it finishes its exhibition "Race" limping across the line with a left front puncture!

 
This Was why I said extention cord to out building as I did to my shed :)
Skip7950
I really appreciate the advice. The problem is this kind of device requires both ends to be able to plug into same electrical circuit, like one would have in your house. My racing rig is in my shop building, wholly separate from my house. Electrical going to the shop is a completely separate circuit from power pole...no common junction at all.
Like Maximus, I live way out in the country 65 miles from the nearest city. Here, internet service is always poor in the sparse population areas like mine. Our service has a maximum of 10 mg. So at best we get around 8 to 9 in actuality. This is enough to run online racing...which I have been doing for about a year now. The issues we have nowadays is the sudden drop off of service locally that everyone suspects is due to a company who has started here in town and grown like wildfire the last year. The have 11 buildings and 450 employees in our town now, and are the biggest online purveyor of their product line in the world these days. So, they have probably 200 hundred computers online at any one moment, with peak times that vary between mid afternoon and late evening. We now get these random, sudden service drops where we can go from 9mb to 200kb...like happened to me today. Either I get kicked out line, or I suddenly get severe lag on the signal.
We are all bugging Century Link to dramatically increase level of service to accommodate us all, but just get vague promises of help. Here in USA, government intervention in this sort of matter is almost non existent.
So, anyway, I already have installed a wireless booster that has given me about the same signal in my shop as in my house, but when we have the drop offs, it affects the whole area...therefore even directly hardwiring with Ethernet will not help.
If I am causing issues for you all by my problem affecting your racing, please tell me honestly...I will then withdraw from the league. It would be only fair.
Otherwise, we might just have to put up with my not being able to race Everytime. Last Wednesday I had no problems and finished the race just fine...just never know when this is going to happen!
So sorry everyone......
Click to expand...
 
Results for Oschersleben GP

Oschersleben GP.jpg
 
Gutted I had to miss this. Some really odd stuff going on with my wheel. Won't let me change gear, and if I come to a complete stop my pedals don't work! It's working fine on other games though. Think it might be a legacy of me bouncing it off the floor the other day. Project cars is the only game that uses a disc so that might have something to do with it. Menus work fine, just when I'm in the race. I even mapped the gears to other buttons but still didn't work.

Any ideas folks?
 
buybon355
Gutted I had to miss this. Some really odd stuff going on with my wheel. Won't let me change gear, and if I come to a complete stop my pedals don't work! It's working fine on other games though. Think it might be a legacy of me bouncing it off the floor the other day. Project cars is the only game that uses a disc so that might have something to do with it. Menus work fine, just when I'm in the race. I even mapped the gears to other buttons but still didn't work.

Any ideas folks?
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I'm sure you've already done this, but if not, unplug everything then replug. If you have a Thrustmaster wheel try plugging into laptop and checking everything and run the test for FFB and effects etc. While you have it connected to a laptop check that you have the latest Firmware edition and update if necessary.

Race Report Round 1 from Oschersleben
Just before the Round started I read the message from Buybon that he was having technical difficulties so was expecting a small field. I had a bit of difficulty configuring the room to the correct settings - I will produce a guidance card for myself to use detailing the settings for Monday and Wednesday. Apologies to all for the delay in getting the right room up and running. I really miss the memory system on GT6 which enabled the host to save multiple room settings - I think you could save 8 - this greatly reduced the risk of Hosting errors.

The idea with Monday's is that the room should be set to allow all the Historic Saloons. We all use the BMW 2002 Turbo, but the AI are easy to spot because they (mostly) use other cars. Strangely there didn't appear to be any AI using the Mercedes which is very fast down the straight, but slow round the corners. The AI were set to level 0 - this seemed about right in testing, but in this round the leaders lapped the slowest backmarker on lap 4 of 17. I will increase the level to 10 for Round 2. Their seems to be a lack of consistency in AI level by track with the AI being relatively better at Bannochbrae for instance - but maybe that is me not being very good at that track!

The BMW 2002 Turbo is the slowest car, followed by the Mustang then the Escort, BMW SW and Mercedes - the idea is that the AI should be easy to pass on the brakes and round the corners, but if they have a faster car, be able to create some excitement on the straights.

Somebody accidentally left their microphone on throughout the meeting with consequent domestic noises coming through my speakers. Some people may have found this distracting so please try to mute your microphones during the race unless using them to warn backmarkers of an impending pass.

Congratulations to Jefaais, Rich and Simba for taking the podiums and especially to Jefaais on his first win with us.

I qualified 4th, but got away poorly again. I have been experimenting a lot with starts in the game - I really dislike the countdown system in PC1 and much preferred the starts in GT6. I have been assured by SMS staff that there is a randomized delay built into the final light sequence of the countdown - I presume this is true, but the delay does not span a wide enough range. It seems to be open to anticipation rather than requiring people to wait until the light is actually displayed. In real racing a green go light is not displayed any more - the red lights just go out after between 1 and 3 seconds - this is as a result of a malfunction where the green didn't come on when the reds went off - after that the green was deleted to reduce the risk of future malfunctions.

I know that @Flaco13 and @AndreasR are visiting the Nordschleife so I am looking forward to seeing some of their photos on the club thread. I will be attending the FIA Masters Historic Festival at Brands Hatch this weekend - I could also have attended the World Rallycross Round at Lydden Hill, but I opted for Brands because it features Historic F1, Sports Cars and Pre 1966 Saloons also the road access to Lydden is terrible - you can end up taking hours to get in and out so that circuit is best saved for small events.

Round 1.jpg


Next Round 2 from Hockenheim Classic
 
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So is it important, to get, firmware updates, from Thrustmaster? I had too, get my buttons, sorted, cause, could n't see left, right. Found hadn't calibrated the new wheel, thought that would be still in settings.

Some of the Mustangs were hard, too overtake, down the straight, but got the Al through coming out of corners.
 
Sick Cylinder
I'm sure you've already done this, but if not, unplug everything then replug. If you have a Thrustmaster wheel try plugging into laptop and checking everything and run the test for FFB and effects etc. While you have it connected to a laptop check that you have the latest Firmware edition and update if necessary.
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Aye, I've unplugged everything, but was unaware I could even plug it in. I'll have another crack at it and see how it goes. Strange how it still works on downloaded games. It did take a fair old thump on the floor, I'm fortunate it even works at all.
 
John Wells
Some of the Mustangs were hard, too overtake, down the straight, but got the Al through coming out of corners.
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Yes - the Mustang is a lot more powerful - so faster on the straights.

I plug my Thrustmaster wheel into my laptop every so often to check the pedals and wheel force feedback. A test screen is downloadable from the Thrustmaster site - don't ask me too many questions as I normally get my Geeky friend (Mook) to check it and do the update if one is needed. My wheel (T500RS) is older than yours and is now on Firmware version 43 (I think) - it started at around version 37 about 6 years ago.
 
Hey @buybon355 I've just spotted your wheel woes. I didn't know you worked for Sony as a crash tester!

Since it works fine with your other ps4 driving games it wouldn't seem to be the wheel or the connections. And it can't be ruled out totally but I wouldn't think it's anything to do with the disk drive since I would think that would show up in other ways.
So it would seem to be game related. The only thing I can think of is your Pcars fully updated to the latest version? I was just thinking since you've reinstalled perhaps there's a patch for your wheel that's missing.
 

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