R8 LMS ultra 15th anniv tuning woe....

  • Thread starter millross
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This thread makes me feel a bit better about my experience with that car now. I had taken it out to Nurburgring to run in that 15 minute race and had all sorts of problems with it on the first lap. I had not considered that it might just be the car was thinking I may have to relearn how to drive ;)
 
Heres my setup on the R8 LMS ULTRA on racing hard tires 0tc/1abs (Anniversary edition, but should work for others)

Ride Height
70"/60"

Springs
15.40/17.60

Dampers (in order)
7/7 7/5

Roll Bars
5/4

Camber Angle
3.0/1.0

Toe Angle
(+)0.20/(+)0.10

Brake Bias
3/1

LSD (Differential)
20/15/30

Downforce
330/800
 
^That's an interesting ride height you got going there. I tried it out, and while it did help on the braking stability, it also made it too understeery for my tastes.

So far the only real way to dial out the twitchy-ness is to add weight up in the front until it reaches 50:50 distribution and more toe in on the rear.

On bumpy circuits though it still likes to pull to one direction under heavy braking but it's more manageable if you're quick to correct it. The only issue now is to dial out the understeer caused by the weight up front and learn new braking points since 135 kgs adds some braking distance.
 
sumbrownkid
^That's an interesting ride height you got going there. I tried it out, and while it did help on the braking stability, it also made it too understeery for my tastes.

So far the only real way to dial out the twitchy-ness is to add weight up in the front until it reaches 50:50 distribution and more toe in on the rear.

On bumpy circuits though it still likes to pull to one direction under heavy braking but it's more manageable if you're quick to correct it. The only issue now is to dial out the understeer caused by the weight up front and learn new braking points since 135 kgs adds some braking distance.
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Decrease downforce on the rear it will oversteer. The issue is that you cant drive on curbs with much power or it will oversteer right around. I switched it up a bit and decreased rear spring rate while making the lsd settings to 12/15/25
 
As other have said there is something seriously wrong with this car.

I planned to use it for a bit of grinding on route x.. I maxed out the power, long gear ratios, minimum down force, all other settings stock.

At around 200mph while travelling in a straight line and no steering input car just turns sharply and spins out. This is a consistent behaviour (other than whether it turns left or right which seems random)

It will do similar with higher downforce levels, at higher speeds, although with maxxed out downforce only when drafting another car.
 
Used the R8 AE for the Midnight Racers in IB, hard work and not a lot of confidence in the car, very poor 8.48 round the Nurburgring 24, including the carousel sending me for a nice spin while using very little gas and low speed to get round it.
 
jonnywombat
As other have said there is something seriously wrong with this car.

I planned to use it for a bit of grinding on route x.. I maxed out the power, long gear ratios, minimum down force, all other settings stock.

At around 200mph while travelling in a straight line and no steering input car just turns sharply and spins out. This is a consistent behaviour (other than whether it turns left or right which seems random)

It will do similar with higher downforce levels, at higher speeds, although with maxxed out downforce only when drafting another car.
Click to expand...
I also noticed this with minimum downforce at Le Mans at about 310 km/h. It reminds me of NFS Shift 2's horrible physics where you could not take a high speed corner without spinning and you could not drive at high speed without losing control.
 
Has anyone tried switching the front and rear stiffness so it's more like 18/15 lower the front a tad more than the rear but don't lower the car too much. Rear anti roll bar 1 notch softer than the front.
 
It's not just the R8 Ultras - it's something that seems to be affecting the MR cars in general, especially online.

There's too many reports from people who usually like cars that oversteer (ie Yellowbird) who say that there's too much oversteer on MR cars when cornering. Cars are loosing traction when not being pushed hard at all, even at low speed.

We did a load of testing and some very strange results came up - so stange that it left us with no doubt that whatever PD has done, is just not right.

Reason being, when testing all the other drivetrains, the same philosphy works though-out them, and has done since 1st gen physics on GT5 - still works now. The only time it doesn't work is now with MR cars.

Combined with the reports about MR cars - that's not a coincidence.

Look at the FXX in free run - totally stock, rolling acceleration from 2nd gear in a straight line. It manages to put near 800hp down through sports hard, without much of a fuss(???) - which is so not right, but floor it in 3d or 4th whilst cornering - adious amigo, she's gone.

We tested the R8s online and some circuits were worse than others, but generally any kind of cambered corner, even at ridiculous low speed and it was game over for the outside tyre.

Eventually we sorted it (without ballast), but this was using methods so extreme, it just re-iterated how wrong things are because none of the other drivetrains need anything extreme, in any area of setup, regardless of power/weight/grip.

We'll have to wait for Polyphony to change it - or you resort to ballast or highly extreme / unusual tuning for some tracks.

The front end is way too responsive, it turns so quick the back end can't keep up. Normally this can be sorted with things like diff / ride height / readdressing the balance through springs, dampers and roll bars, but depending on track and car (and remember, supposedly PD has built in other variables into GT6 like temperature), it'll change how far you need to go.

With some racecars, a quick and easy fix is to use a lower compound tyre on the front, ie sports soft on front, racing hard on rear, racing hard on front / medium rear - this gave immediate results on problem tracks like Apricot Hill, but other circuits this wasn't necessary.

Either way - there's nowt we can do to generally fix this - it's up to PD to get the online MR physics better balanced..
 
Johnnypenso
In my opinion this car is broken:boggled: Not unusually grippy, not a little unusual, not, "Oh well you're just a rookie and not a really good driver you just have to get used to it". I mean broken as in it's coded wrong. I tried it out at GVE and Daytona and there is something wrong with it no doubt. I did everything but ballast with all kinds of wacky settings and nothing really worked. You can feel the front end is stuck to the track like glue and when you touch the brakes the front end just grabs. Had a high speed wobble going on Daytona banking with the G27 that I've never had before on any car in any game. This car and others that behave the same way will no doubt be patched if and when PD discovers it.

I'm sure if I spent enough time with it I could make it drivable, but what you're really doing is whacking out a bunch of settings to get around a car that isn't coded right.
Click to expand...

Have you tried using harder compound in the front?
 
Highlandor
It's not just the R8 Ultras - it's something that seems to be affecting the MR cars in general, especially online.

There's too many reports from people who usually like cars that oversteer (ie Yellowbird) who say that there's too much oversteer on MR cars when cornering. Cars are loosing traction when not being pushed hard at all, even at low speed.

We did a load of testing and some very strange results came up - so stange that it left us with no doubt that whatever PD has done, is just not right.

Reason being, when testing all the other drivetrains, the same philosphy works though-out them, and has done since 1st gen physics on GT5 - still works now. The only time it doesn't work is now with MR cars.

Combined with the reports about MR cars - that's not a coincidence.

Look at the FXX in free run - totally stock, rolling acceleration from 2nd gear in a straight line. It manages to put near 800hp down through sports hard, without much of a fuss(???) - which is so not right, but floor it in 3d or 4th whilst cornering - adious amigo, she's gone.

We tested the R8s online and some circuits were worse than others, but generally any kind of cambered corner, even at ridiculous low speed and it was game over for the outside tyre.

Eventually we sorted it (without ballast), but this was using methods so extreme, it just re-iterated how wrong things are because none of the other drivetrains need anything extreme, in any area of setup, regardless of power/weight/grip.

We'll have to wait for Polyphony to change it - or you resort to ballast or highly extreme / unusual tuning for some tracks.

The front end is way too responsive, it turns so quick the back end can't keep up. Normally this can be sorted with things like diff / ride height / readdressing the balance through springs, dampers and roll bars, but depending on track and car (and remember, supposedly PD has built in other variables into GT6 like temperature), it'll change how far you need to go.

With some racecars, a quick and easy fix is to use a lower compound tyre on the front, ie sports soft on front, racing hard on rear, racing hard on front / medium rear - this gave immediate results on problem tracks like Apricot Hill, but other circuits this wasn't necessary.

Either way - there's nowt we can do to generally fix this - it's up to PD to get the online MR physics better balanced..
Click to expand...

Try using different tires front and rear to induce a bit more understeer, like soft in the back harder in the front!
 
Highlandor
Reason being, when testing all the other drivetrains, the same philosphy works though-out them, and has done since 1st gen physics on GT5 - still works now. The only time it doesn't work is now with MR cars.

Combined with the reports about MR cars - that's not a coincidence.
Click to expand...

I have a tune that made NSX PROTOTYPE RACE CAR stable, understeery. I don't have permission to post it yet, but ive asked owner of tune. Waiting for reply.

Maybe in it there is an answer to MR problem.
 
godlameroso
Try using different tires front and rear to induce a bit more understeer, like soft in the back harder in the front!
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I said in my post???


"With some racecars, a quick and easy fix is to use a lower compound tyre on the front, ie sports soft on front, racing hard on rear, racing hard on front / medium rear - this gave immediate results on problem tracks like Apricot Hill, but other circuits this wasn't necessary."
 
Tazz69
Try this...


RH 80/80
SR 15.6/13.6
COMP 4/4
EXT 4/4
ARB 6/6
CAMBER 4.0/0.0 thats right just try it put 4.0 camber in the front.... If the car is to tight start backing out the front camber some and start raising the rear spring to almost or same as rear spring..
TOE 0.00/0.20
DIFF SPLIT 30/70
LSD front 5/10/5
LSD rear 10/20/20

Just try this I know it seems strange but the in game description says a LOWER rear spring stiffer front will tighten a car up. Also just try it adding camber in the front. It will plant the rear. Not sure why dont know if PD got the settings backwards on camber but on my R8 4.2 I couldnt do anything but spin untill I added 3.0 camber in the front and none in the rear. Just try it and let us know if it worked...
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Very good tune, i upped the downforce on the front a bit along with this and the car is drivable now tyvm sir
 
I just drove it for the first time at suzuka expecting a devil of a car, but it drove very nice with the exception of braking. The problem is the brakes!! I found I was locking up even with abs on and it was getting out of shape. I squared up the ride height and turned the brakes down, haha!! It handled much better. I believe being this isnt the first car like this, gt6's generic brake setup is all wrong and needs to be fine tuned per car to get realistic handling. I'm curious if someone could try this on the Diablo and report back.
 
I'm in the meddle of working on a tune for the Audi R8's, so far I've removed a lot of the over steer, got better mechanical grip. Sets for Brands Hatch, AP Hill and one other track.
 
So I've finally managed to tame the LMS a bit and here is what I noticed where the main causes for spins.

  • The car has too much front end grip, removing some of this makes the rear end more predictable
  • The Rear brakes are mighty, I reduced rear BB a lot and upped the deceleration differential
And while watching the replay I figured out the main cause for my braking woes:
  • The car bottoms out under breaking
I raised the height and stiffened the front and viola, no more random braking spins.

My current tune can still spin out, but these spin outs are attributed entirely to the easyness with which a MR can be upset and be cured by throttle control.
 
This car in real life is a great car...I think its a money thing IMO...GT goes to these manufactures for $$$...the more money they through at GT the better their cars handle. I mean...does anyone think for a moment that GT just outta the blue said to themselves....we're gonna make everyone have to buy the fit??? Honda paid GT huge $$$ to make that happen...its all advertizing $$$, you pay we make your car desirable...you don't...your car sucks and no on wants to drive it.......Why else would this car...and others be so terrible?? When in reality they're a good car.
 
Good Luck if someone try this out, its the best for me so far on the R8

Ride Height
55"/58"

Springs
15.31/15.80

Dampers
Front 8/6 Rear
Front 7/5 Rear

Roll Bars
6/4

Camber Angle
2,5/1,5

Toe Angle
(-)0.05/(+)0.40
On the Anniversary R8 u can put the front toe on +0,05 its a bit different than the Phoenix R8

Brakes
1/0 Cause i drive without ABS

LSD (Differential)
6/7/60

Downforce
400/900

I added 74KG on -50 so i have a Weight Distribution of 48:52
 
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Guys, here is my attempt at the R8 that I posted in another thread. I am using a wheel, so it might not work for Pad users. Tires were race hards.


Ride Height: 85/85
Brakes: 3/2
Springs: 13.72/16.84
Compression: 3/3
Extension: 2/2
Anti-Roll Bar: 1/1
Camber: 0.5/1.7
Toe: 0.22 / 0.54
Diff: 10/54/36
Downforce: 250/758
 
Nomad67
This car in real life is a great car...I think its a money thing IMO...GT goes to these manufactures for $$$...the more money they through at GT the better their cars handle. I mean...does anyone think for a moment that GT just outta the blue said to themselves....we're gonna make everyone have to buy the fit??? Honda paid GT huge $$$ to make that happen...its all advertizing $$$, you pay we make your car desirable...you don't...your car sucks and no on wants to drive it.......Why else would this car...and others be so terrible?? When in reality they're a good car.
Click to expand...

Pretty convenient that most (if not all) MR cars act this way. I guess Audi and Ferrari aren't big enough car companies for PD to need to code driving characteristics in properly.
 
Most MR cars are fine, I think. It's just this one for me so far. I've blasted round in at least 12 of them now, all different shapes and sizes

Still trying to test these tunes out! :cheers:
 
When driving the R8 LMS 15th Anniv on the Midnight Racers Daytona Race, the car spun while braking (I wasn't even turning) on the 1st turn. >_<
 
millross
Most MR cars are fine, I think. It's just this one for me so far. I've blasted round in at least 12 of them now, all different shapes and sizes

Still trying to test these tunes out! :cheers:
Click to expand...


It does seem to have a mind of its own. 40 mph - 60 mph corners are more managable in 4 gear. In third you are right on that torque curve, so any mistake bites!! It could be that the car is just reacting to the road surface, but there would be times I would brake with the wheel straight and the car would dart left or right. The car definitely does not like agression. Let me know what you think of the tune.
 
Third Reign
So I've finally managed to tame the LMS a bit and here is what I noticed where the main causes for spins.

  • The car has too much front end grip, removing some of this makes the rear end more predictable
  • The Rear brakes are mighty, I reduced rear BB a lot and upped the deceleration differential
And while watching the replay I figured out the main cause for my braking woes:
  • The car bottoms out under breaking
I raised the height and stiffened the front and viola, no more random braking spins.

My current tune can still spin out, but these spin outs are attributed entirely to the easyness with which a MR can be upset and be cured by throttle control.
Click to expand...

I noticed similar things in my test session at Silverstone Stowe the other night... the front is very pointy and building in some understeer definitely helps, especially for braking zones.

I still can't get the car to accept high-speed turns without the back kicking out though... I suspect that I might have to stiffen the car up, adding a lot of anti-roll as well, to stop the car kicking out when the weight transfers over violently. I don't have a particularly aggressive driving style, but I do lean my cars on the outside front, and that's where the R8 is then letting go at the back. I need to change the car to make more level when I'm putting the load on that outside front.

Haven't worked it out yet, but haven't tried some of the setups posted here just yet, so there may be a key in there somewhere.
 
Glad I'm not the only one having issues, I'll have to try some of these setups out..
 

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