R8 LMS ultra 15th anniv tuning woe....

  • Thread starter millross
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I just ran this thing stock on AH 15 minute race and have to say it is hard to drive but not that hard when you learn to go in slow out fast. Only one corner gave me fits. I will say that low speed turns are not made for this car stock. The turn in on this thing is insane. It is also a bit twitchy but I think this can be reduce with camber and toe.
Over all it is not as bad as this thread has pointed out. I'm on a T500 so that might have something to do with it. I plan on tuning it up tomorrow if I find something to be good all around I'll put it up for someone else to try.
 
In my opinion this car is broken:boggled: Not unusually grippy, not a little unusual, not, "Oh well you're just a rookie and not a really good driver you just have to get used to it". I mean broken as in it's coded wrong. I tried it out at GVE and Daytona and there is something wrong with it no doubt. I did everything but ballast with all kinds of wacky settings and nothing really worked. You can feel the front end is stuck to the track like glue and when you touch the brakes the front end just grabs. Had a high speed wobble going on Daytona banking with the G27 that I've never had before on any car in any game. This car and others that behave the same way will no doubt be patched if and when PD discovers it.

I'm sure if I spent enough time with it I could make it drivable, but what you're really doing is whacking out a bunch of settings to get around a car that isn't coded right.

I agree. This also happened to me in the Minolta at Stage 66 long straight. I was getting passed by cars that had no hope in GT5 and not being a very good tuner - I just lowered the suspension to give it more downforce. Whoa - it goes a bunch slower and starts swaying from side to side at any sort of speed. As i say, i'm no export tuner but I drive okay and it sure felt wring to me.
 
The biggest tuning aid I have found (and others on the forum) is ballast. Getting weight to at least 48 front 52 rear helps. As does raising the ride height on some cars. I don't post very often but here is the tune I've found makes it better (for me) and maybe a base for others to tune to there liking. Any MR road car that feels strange, the first thing I'll do is stage 3 wieght reduction and then add ballast to the front to get as close to 50:50 as I can. Also, don't go off what you think "looks right" on paper. Do what "feels right" when you drive it.

(I use DS3 controller with no aids apart from ABS1)

Tyres: RH
Ride Height: 60 front 60 rear
Spring Rate: 14.91 front 20.86 rear
Dampers: 2/2
Dampers Ext: 4/4
Rollbars: 3/3
Camber: 2.5/1.0
Toe: -0.10 front 0.30 rear

Diff: Int: 10 Acc: 20 Brake: 40

Brake Balance: 5/4 (ABS 1)
Downforce: 350/730

Ballast: 95Kg at -50 (giving 48-52 distribution at 1345KG)

I'm only posting this in the hope it helps some people out. It's not perfect for me yet but a good foundation.
 
I agree with Mr616. Ballast is key and do what feels right to your driving style. Here is my tune for the R8 AE edition.

DS3 controller, no aids, ABS 1, controller sensitivity 2

Tyres: RH
Ride height: 53/54
Spring: 14.75/20.87
Damper comp: 4/5
Damper ext: 4/5
Roll bar: 5/7
Camber: 2.7/0.2
Toe: -0.11/0.09
Brakes: 6/6

LSD: 12 / Acc 57 / Dec 22
Downforce: 382/865
Ballast: 75kg / -39 (47/53 weigh distro at 1325 kg)

Tuned at Nurburgring 24H because I wanted to use the R8 for the Midnight Racer race. Then fine tuned for hours at Grand Valley... love the high speed braking into those corners on this track.

Some explanation: I wanted to keep ballast as low as possible. The lighter the car, the quicker around the track. I'm happy with the 47/53 weight distro because under heavy braking, the momentum will push the weight forward to 50/50 distro (or close to it) when cornering. Roll bar strengthened to keep the car from swaying side to side (causing spin out). LSD torque increased = more understeer. LSD Acc increased to prevent wheel spin accelerating out of corners. LSD Dec increased = stability/understeer entering corners.

Hope this helps you tame this R8. Happy driving!
 
The more I drive this car, the more I am convinced it's an issue with the steering ratio... you simply cannot turn the wheel as far as the other cars without then suffering for it. The problem people are having with spinning is because they're putting in what is for the car a massive amount of lock but it is what feel natural to the player.

At least in real life it's adjustable, if PD just opened it out a bit more this would be so much more easy to drive. It's got the grip, if you drive it properly it's as fast as the other GT3 cars but you're having to drive with twice the precision (unnecessarily) because the lock range is miniscule compared to basically everything else in the game.

Using Praiano's setup for the car... it is insanely quick, but that steering bites you anywhere below 70mph.
 
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R8 LMS TEAM ORECA IS A BEAST!. Most people just dont want to put the time in to tune. At 600pp on softs , i ran a best of 154.803 on silverstone, 116.385 motegi short, 156.103 suzuka, all without draft. Set your car up to drift a little through some corners and control it with throttle. Brake early , power through the turns.
 
R8 LMS TEAM ORECA IS A BEAST!. Most people just dont want to put the time in to tune. At 600pp on softs , i ran a best of 154.803 on silverstone, 116.385 motegi short, 156.103 suzuka, all without draft. Set your car up to drift a little through some corners and control it with throttle. Brake early , power through the turns.

It certainly is a fast car. My best at Silverstone the other night was a 1.54.9, whereas my next best time in a GT3 car was a 1.57.1 in the Nissan. With a 'fix' on the steering ratio it'd be a complete beast of a car.
 
Here's another tune. Try it as it's real stable.

R8 LMS Ultra '12

RH Tyres
No added parts

RH:80/80
SPRINGS:21.29/24.00
COMP:6/6
EXT:6/6
ARB:6/6
CAM:3.0/1.0
TOE:0.28/0.40

BRAKES:4/4

DIFF INITIAL:30
ACCEL:30
BRAKING:30

AERO:300/550

Choose your gearing and enjoy. A HUGE improvement over standard.
 
Here's another tune. Try it as it's real stable.

R8 LMS Ultra '12

RH Tyres
No added parts

RH:80/80
SPRINGS:21.29/24.00
COMP:6/6
EXT:6/6
ARB:6/6
CAM:3.0/1.0
TOE:0.28/0.40

BRAKES:4/4

DIFF INITIAL:30
ACCEL:30
BRAKING:30

AERO:300/550

Choose your gearing and enjoy. A HUGE improvement over standard.
Just need some work on low speed stability. Otherwise awesome.
 
Hi all,
I've gone and worked out a stable and quick tune for the Audi R8 LMS team phoenix.
I've used the camber angle of 4.0 front and 0 on the back from a previous post and the weight distribution of 49:51 as suggested earlier as well. Tires tested where RH and RM. Test tracks where Materhorn Rotenboden and Nurburgring 24H (both 24 minute race and free run). Stable and predictable.
Using, DFGT. TCS: 0. ABS: 1. SRF: off. ASM: off.

Param / Front / Rear
RH 58 / 59
SR 14.91 / 19.91
Dc 3 / 3
De 6 / 7
ARB 5 / 4
Ca 4.0 / 0.0
Ta +.07 / +.24
BB 6 / 5
DF 380 / 850

Trans. Top Speed 199mph
1st. 4.310
2nd. 2.890
3rd. 2.100
4th. 1.600
5th. 1.290
6th. 1.080
FG. 3.560

Diff. (I've adjusted it more accel. sensitive for wet and less for dry)
Init: 32-27
Acc: 36
Brake: 27

+110 - 125 kg (depending on track)
-50
47:53 - 49:51 weight distro.

Thank you all here for making this car drivable for me, as I love this car above all others (except the Mclaren GT cars, and the BMW's and the Ferraris and....I still love this car :)
 
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Hey guys i havent read all the posts here but are you guys talking about your MR cars losing control when u brake at high speeds because i have a 787b stealth car and a R18 15th anniversary, both have insanely good tunes but it doesnt matter what i do the moment i touch the brakes at high speed im gone....if thats not what your talking about does anyone have the answer to fix it please?
 
No, R8's have a different problem (steering to sensitive)

Many cars have that high speed braking=snap oversteer thing.
FXX, C60 hybr., Z4 GT3

It is much more controllable (even useful) when driving with wheel !
(Stock FXX@Monza, impossible for me with DS3, pure joy with wheel)

Setup, try less rear braking, more rear downforce, higher value ins LSD for braking.
Unfortunately this all causes understeer.

Edit:
If u use DS3 its probably best to avoid these cars.
BMW V12 LMR for example is a LeMans car with good handling and no issue for DS3.
 
yeh i wanna get a wheel but i just dont have the room for one yet! Ok cheers, thanks for the tips ill try what u said and see how i go.
 
LSD tuning is key here. Lower the acceleration value, I use 10/12/12. Run toe at .10/.15 and lessen your steering angle or sensitivity. For braking it is pretty much the same. Lessen the value on the deceleration side of tge LSD and it should help. Less camber helps imo. Try 1.5 on the rear.
 
I'm having the same problem trying to tune the R8 5.2 FSI Quattro Chrome Line. no matter what I do, it's all over the trac?
 
Guy's not sure if you know about this but please try it out and let us all know about your findings.

Afew friends and I tested the GT3 cars and run a 32 lap race at Nurburgring GP/F with tyre wear on fast, We had a good hours practice before going into the race. I wanted to run with the R8 but couldnt believe how hard it was to drive. After afew laps I changed my tyres by pitting and got a fresh set and full fuel, after exiting the pit and just driving a couple of corners I realised that there was more grip in the rear tyres.

Could you guys try this and report here if you also experience this for yourself, the sooner PD notices the better for us.
I'm not sure what cars are effected all I know at this point that the FR GT3 cars have good first set of tyres and a bad second set. The R8 GT3 has a bad first set and a good second, there maybe more cars that are effected in all classes but we wont know for sure until PD can take a look at the tyre coding.

There is also another seperate issue that is also related to a tyre bug that you guys may or may not be aware of but if you have any car that does not handle right, try the same car with its original wheels. Problem with custom wheels is that they are always thinner than the original wheels. Some cars have wider rear wheels and the custom wheels only give you one size, you can see this for yourself by comparing cars with different wheels in photo travel.

Good news is that GT6 has a better tyre physics model that even effects cars handling when there is a thinner width in the tyres.

The bad news is that we do not have an option to have wider rims when buying custom wheels.

I do hope PD can now bring us good wheel upgrade options, such as having multiple front and rear tyre width.
 
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I put Soft Tires on the Rear & Hard Tires on the Front to correct some of the problem along with the following settings for the R8 LMS Ultra 15th AE '11.
Front Ride Height = 50
Rear Ride Height = 64
Front Springs = 20.55
Rear Springs = 21.52
Front Damper Compression = 8
Rear Damper Compression = 8
Front Damper Extension = 7
Rear Damper Extension = 9
Front Anti-Roll Bar = 6
Rear Anti-Roll Bar = 4
Front Camber Angle = 0.7
Rear Camber Angle = 1.3
Front Toe Angle = 0.16
Rear Toe Angle = 0.80
Front Brake = 9
Rear Brake = 1
Rear Initial Torque = 17
Rear Acceleration = 30
Rear Deceleration = 26
Front Downforce = 400
Rear Downforce = 900​
(Complements of GT6 Quick Tune)
 
I also found a huge difference when switching back to the original rims, everything seems normal. so there's a glitch with upgrading/changing rims on some cars?
 
I found the easiest trick was adding 135kg of ballast and getting the weight balance to 50:50. Weight isn't an issue for me as the series im using it in has a minimum weight of 1380kg.

Anyway, ive tweaked the setup abit, but my original setup seemed to work quite well:

Ride Height : 50 60
Spring Rate : 20.00 27.15
Compression : 3 8
Extention : 2 7
ARB : 7 7
Camber : 2.5 1.0
Toe : -0.10 0.30

Brakes : 6 5

Diff : 5 15 10

Full aero and racing softs.

It suits my driving style, and I feel comfortable with it, give it a try and see what you think.
 
I found the easiest trick was adding 135kg of ballast and getting the weight balance to 50:50. Weight isn't an issue for me as the series im using it in has a minimum weight of 1380kg.

Anyway, ive tweaked the setup abit, but my original setup seemed to work quite well:

Ride Height : 50 60
Spring Rate : 20.00 27.15
Compression : 3 8
Extention : 2 7
ARB : 7 7
Camber : 2.5 1.0
Toe : -0.10 0.30

Brakes : 6 5

Diff : 5 15 10

Full aero and racing softs.

It suits my driving style, and I feel comfortable with it, give it a try and see what you think.
Thanks mate:cheers:
:mischievous:
Let's see if I can keep up with you now:D
 
With no other tuning modifications made to this car, I increased the rear downforce to 830. It definitely makes it easier to brake and correct a sudden spinout. Adjusting the brake balance doesn't seem to have any effect on braking stability.
 
Here's another tune. Try it as it's real stable.

R8 LMS Ultra '12

RH Tyres
No added parts

RH:80/80
SPRINGS:21.29/24.00
COMP:6/6
EXT:6/6
ARB:6/6
CAM:3.0/1.0
TOE:0.28/0.40

BRAKES:4/4

DIFF INITIAL:30
ACCEL:30
BRAKING:30

AERO:300/550

Choose your gearing and enjoy. A HUGE improvement over standard.

From non drivable to drivable
Thank you for the set up. I was beginnig to fear that i was a driving fool who did not understand the R8 (maybe i am;)) anyways the car goes round brand hatch nicely with your set up, and it is a fast car.
thank you :bowdown:
Kim.
 
It's a great car. With proper setup it goes really fast. But setting up this beast can be real pain in the a*s. I think the magic is in the dampers compression and rebound rates.

Lift off oversteer is something that driver must use as advantage when using this car. I couldn't rid off of it. Downforce helps to stabilize the car on hi speeds, to reduce corner exit oversteer i recommend setting LSD Acc to 5
 
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Posted this on my garage for the Team Phoenix version, should work on the AE as well, simple changes, no ballast, just LSD, suspension and brake balance, tune works up to max power 900+HP on RH tires.

AUDI R8 LMS Ultra (Audi Sport Team Phoenix) '12 RIDOX ver. 528HP 1250kg
Tuned on Racing Hard





Specs
Horsepower: 528 HP at 8000 RPM
Torque: 397.8 ft-lb at 6500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1250 kg
Ballast : 0 kg
Ballast Position : 0
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as stock
Performance Points: 599


GT AUTO
No oil change yet - feel free to do so.
Improve Body Rigidity ( optional - not installed in this build ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended.
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : Stock




Tuning Parts Installed :
Racing Exhaust
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Racing Brakes Kit



AERO :
Downforce Front / Rear : 400 / 900 ( MAX - adjust according to track ) - try to maintain 450-500 gap value between front and rear or adjust to suit your style ( less gap will make the car looser in high speed + slight top speed increase less rear used )



LSD - 2 way high preload
Initial Torque : 33
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30
Keep initial / preload at 33, reduce accel and brake if wanted less sensitivity, I recommend ( accel/brake ) 24 / 24 or 18 / 18.


Suspension
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 70 70
Spring Rate: 11.24 15.97 ( soft setup )
Dampers (Compression): 4 3
Dampers (Extension): 4 1
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 2
Camber Angle: 2.4 0.0 ( alters the balance of grip between front and rear - higher camber up front reduce the front sensitivity to steering to make it less twitchy ) if increase rear camber, add rear to the front, say 3.0 front, rear 0.6
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.00 ( neutral ) - increase rear toe in if want more stability, I recommended no more than 0.24

For Spring Rate F/R- alternative medium setup : 14.44 / 20.50 or hard setup : 17.94 / 25.47 or super hard : 19.64 / 27.88 -TESTED


Transmission

Stock gearing, only alter final to suit track.
For Mt Panorama Bathurst I used 3.095 final and max aero.



Brake Balance - IMPORTANT IN THIS BUILD :
1/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 0/5, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance - but it would be preferable to use rear bias balance, for example : 2/10, 1/5 with ABS, find balance that suits your driving style. The rear bias helps greatly when braking.


Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 0/5 brake balance as starting point.




Notes :
This tune is made to help drivers tame the car, as the stock base setup is not very friendly and has too much front grip bias.

The camber quirk of zero value giving more instantaneous grip is used to alter the balance of the car when coasting and in mid corner to exit ( sustained grip during cornering seems to be fine and works as it should with camber changes ).
Brake balance set to rear bias helped the car under braking instability, the 2 way LSD also helped giving better traction both on and off throttle. All it takes some minor adjustment and the car becomes much better to drive, stable, and quick.

Tuned and tested at Brands Hatch GP, Bathurst, Silverstone Stowe, Apricot Hill, Nordschleife and Silverstone Full Track.

The R8 LMS Ultra Team Phoenix able to lap Brands Hatch GP at 1:25s easily ( stock gearing, medium high aero with the above tune ) and Mt Panorama Bathurst at 2:06s using max aero, 3.095 final + same tune above ( LSD and suspension ). All on Racing Hard, stock power no oil change.

The tune has also been tested with max power setup at over 900HP, works great, adjust gearing, aero and spring rate according to the track, enjoy :cheers:

A video of the car when tested during tuning session ( 2:07 at Mt Panorama ) :
 
From non drivable to drivable
Thank you for the set up. I was beginnig to fear that i was a driving fool who did not understand the R8 (maybe i am;)) anyways twhe car goes round brand hatch nicely with your set up, and it is a fast car.
thank you :bowdown:
Kim.
From non drivable to drivable
Thank you for the set up. I was beginnig to fear that i was a driving fool who did not understand the R8 (maybe i am;)) anyways the car goes round brand hatch nicely with your set up, and it is a fast car.
thank you :bowdown:
Kim.

Yay!
Thanks for the feedback.
I am now encouraged to do more.
Thanks!
 
I retried the car after 1.03 and it did seem slightly better under braking at Daytona. Needs more testing. Still has low speed spin loveliness though.

May be a placebo, may not. Anyone else care to try where it was tested before?
 
Had another go with it last night with the same tune I had before (suspension, brake bias, more rear DF & Ballast for 50:50) and "I think" its better than before under braking, it doesn't start to rotate when braking in a straight line/zero lock. It's still quite a hard car to master and as I've only had a racing wheel for all of 3 weeks but I think the issue partly lies with me, although I managed a full lap of the ring without spinning off I still made lots of mistakes and lost time due to general untidiness.

But maybe something is slightly off as with the DS3 as I can be 100x more aggressive (rag the car round the track, even occasionally pulling handbrake lol) and not have the same trouble keeping on the tarmac as I do with the wheel.
 
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