Real Guns

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Anyone have any recommendations for a high-precision rifle? My dad suggested I try out for the local gun club's marksman team (or whatever it's called).
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a high-precision rifle? My dad suggested I try out for the local gun club's marksman team (or whatever it's called).

Ruger precision rifle in 6.5 creedmor, unless you want to spend crazy money.
 
Retired buddy of mine works at a gunshop part time & he was telling me that he was handling one when he called couple of days ago. He told me to look it up, but I totally forgot. Nice rifle, but man, they are not cheap, are they?

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When he called about a week before that, he said that he had just handled SCAR(7.62). I jokingly asked him if he could get me a good friend discount price for about $800, and he told me how much those things actually cost. :lol:

Edit: I ordered one of these things today, for my Glock 19. I don't have the Citizenship, or conceal carry permit yet, but I bought the gun for this purpose & I didn't have a holster for it yet. I hope you like it @Spacegoat :p



I've never heard such shocking abuse of the word "diameter" when he was clearly referring to circumference every goddamn time.
There were few comments being left on the video about that. :D I've had that mixed up a time or two before, but I'm originally from a Non-English speaking country, so that's my excuse. :lol:

Another cool thing I found in the comment section:

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I don't know if this makes sense? Maybe @Michael88 might have opinion on it? It was a interesting read anyway!
 
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Edit: I ordered one of these things today, for my Glock 19. I don't have the Citizenship, or conceal carry permit yet, but I bought the gun for this purpose & I didn't have a holster for it yet. I hope you like it @Spacegoat :p

So, no 1/24 or 1/43 Mazda 787b then? Awww. :( :lol: Does this mean though that you're finally going to get full citizenship? 👍👍
 
The RPR is still cheaper than glass. Other precision rifles can cost more than 4 grand.
 
Ruger precision rifle in 6.5 creedmor, unless you want to spend crazy money.
Would I be able to get a Mosin-Nagant or some other kind of cheaper rifle and still get the accuracy I'd need?
 
I....I don't know why I thought that you didn't have it already. :dunce: :lol:👍
I do have Citizenship, just not U.S........ and damn Japanese Government still doesn't allow conceal carry permit for handguns. :dopey:
Would I be able to get a Mosin-Nagant or some other kind of cheaper rifle and still get the accuracy I'd need?
What kind of range(distance) will you be shooting at? I wouldn't call Mosin-Nagant a "high-precision" rifle, but I'm sure most bolt-action rifles in fair condition would be pretty accurate?
 
This article just landed in my email box:

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Howa Targetmaster w/scope
The writer I think is a salesman, and he does sound like he's trying to sell a product, but still a cool rifle(I'd want to add detachable mag).
 
This article just landed in my email box:

HowaTargetmaster_1.jpg

Howa Targetmaster w/scope
The writer I think is a salesman, and he does sound like he's trying to sell a product, but still a cool rifle(I'd want to add detachable mag).

HOWA is a Japanese manufacturer. :D I heard those are good rifles for the money and I know many people who own one - also there are after market conversions for detachable mags (I think they cost 90 buck including magazine) .
 
What about a Gewehr 98?

Finding a Gewehr 98 in good condition is very rare, those survived a World War in the trenches, a hundred years ago. Good ones will cost you 600 bucks easily. Not to mention good quality ammo is hard to get and very expensive. Thats a lot of factors that work against accuracy and definitely not the way to go. I would not recommend any of the military surplus guns if all you want is MOA accuracy for cheap, thats not what they were made for.

Get a Remington 700, a HOWA or a winchester 70 - or a Ruger - if you want accuracy without breaking the bank. Slap good scope and mount on it, learn how to shoot, spend quality trigger time behind the rifle and get good results.

And if you are extra smart you ditch the 6.5 creedmore and all the other exotic calibers altogether and get a .308 which costs about half as much and does basically the same unless you want that 10% more accuracy at that 1000yd shot. Cheaper ammo = more practice = more accuracy.

To really utilize the tiny superiority of the 6.5 over the .308 you need to be a very experienced long range target shooter with many years of practice under your belt, shooting at 700+ yds targets. The only difference the average shooter will ever notice between .308 and 6.5 is the extra cash he is spending on 6.5.
 
BTW, you got a Nagant, right? How much was it?

:eek: Blasphemy! Thats something far better and even older than that crude dime-a-dozen Russian boomstick, its a Peruvian Mauser 1891 with the 1889 system. Or in other words, pure German quality, craftsmanship of bygone times and a sprinkle of divine magic wrought into an artifact of wood and steel. :sly:

Got it for 335 bucks which is an insane steal, thats a 650 bucks rifle easily.
 
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I got my first IWB holster today(inside-waistband). I don't think I could comfortably wear my Glock 19 inside tighter fitting jeans. Shouldn't be any problem with looser fitting jeans/pants/shorts though.

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It's "ShapeShift 4.0" by Alien Gear Holsters(youtube video on the earlier post).
 
Tested my new shotgun slug reloads. 680 grain projectiles at 1450 fp/s .

Here is a gif of a video of me shooting them 50 meters off-hand, a friend wanted to capture the muzzle flash. :dopey: And they recoil HARD.

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I know how slugs feel.



BTW, is that an 870?
 
I need to get heavier ammo. My gun has yet to lock open on an empty mag. Today, I got multiple failures to feed with WWB 115 grainers. I think the slide is short-stroking or something. The spring tension has loosened up nicely up to the point where the striker will reset and a round will extract. However, it is still a chore to rack it all the way back. That, or the goddamn magazine springs are still so strong that it's flinging my ammo into the top of the locking block instead of into the chamber. But if the magazine springs are so strong, why isn't the slide being held open? It's gotta be a combination of things. I almost want to have someone else shoot my gun so I know it's not just me.
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That said, the trigger has broken in quite nicely. Takeup is nice and smooth and if you shoot off the reset it's a buttery scary-light trigger. I shot another 375 rounds at the range today and was all over the place. I had a lot of difficulty with my hand placement and was shooting greatly to the right. Precision was pretty decent, however. I wish the 509 came with the large backstrap instead of the small one. In the FTF pic above, my right index finger is actually over the trigger guard. I feel like my left hand is taking up so much space on the gun that I can't get an equal force onto the pistol with my right hand. So all my shots are pushing to the right as a lefty.

Here are my first few groups. 15 rounds each at approximately 60-70 rounds per minute, all at 5m, except for the head which had to be 10m, and was shot at a slower pace so I could try to see where I was hitting. First group is center-chest, then center-abdomen, then right shoulder and finally left shoulder. As you can see, the first group was grossly down and right but tightened up nicely upon reaching the left shoulder.
v0oBHky.jpg


The next round below are groups of 10 at 7m (10m head)-- what I can reasonably speed-load into my mags with the cam loader. Same story, right chest, then left chest/axilla, followed by the left elbow "3", and then the left "4". Not bad.

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My last 100 rounds were where most of the failures began. The gun stopped going into battery and had to be tapped home a lot. It's was pretty bad. I don't really want to use 115gr again until I try shooting a few hundred rounds of some heavier stuff.
 
Are you limp wristing? That is a major cause of ftfs and stove piping. Not saying you are but I went through the same thing when I started firing handguns being a rifle guy. Was going with the recoil. Havento have a real firm grip on a recoil operated gun.
 
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Are you limp wristing? That is a major cause of ftfs and stoce piping
You beat me to this.

Last time I limp-wristed was on a .40 S&W handgun, which stovepiped. Rather unpleasant experience on top of a rather unpleasant gun.
 
No, no limp-wristing. The gun isn't stovepiping. I've had that happen before with other guns when it's definitely a limp-wristing thing. This is just weird, and it's complicated by the fact that the gun has never locked open ever since I've had it. FN recommends 124 gr and up, especially for the first couple hundred rounds. So that is what I shall do.

If the Stryk B comes out in the next few months (now that it's approved and shipping) and it's good, I might trade in or sell the FN. The more I use it, the more I'm really starting to get annoyed by the magazine release. The buttons are not independent and instead slide as one big block through the gun. So if your giant manhands are covering the button on one size, it will not allow your thumb to push it through. The more I shoot it the more I agree with Sage Dynamics's review of the pistol.

I'm also having a hell of a time using the magazine release, ala that one Remington RP9. However, when it switch hands and actuate it with my right thumb as a righty, it works just fine. This could be contributing to why the slide is not locking open, but it seems pretty stupid that my hand could be preventing it from moving upwards somehow. I mean, if I can't even push it down, how the heck am I preventing it from going up?
 
It does not necessarily take much pressure on the slide lock/release to keep it from locking open on an empty magazine, as just resting your thumb on the side can do it. A way to test is to grip the gun normally, remove your strong hand, grip with the weak hand as normal as possible paying particular attention to your thumb's position in relation to the slide lock/release, and rack the slide with an empty magazine in the gun. If it does not lock open, then it is probably because your thumb is on the lock/release and applying a small amount of pressure.
 
It does not necessarily take much pressure on the slide lock/release to keep it from locking open on an empty magazine, as just resting your thumb on the side can do it. A way to test is to grip the gun normally, remove your strong hand, grip with the weak hand as normal as possible paying particular attention to your thumb's position in relation to the slide lock/release, and rack the slide with an empty magazine in the gun. If it does not lock open, then it is probably because your thumb is on the lock/release and applying a small amount of pressure.

You're forgetting that the gun is completely ambidextrous. The problem then becomes that it is difficult to assess without limp writing. Even if I 1 hand the gun I'm still up on the controls. It's kind of awkward.
 
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