Speed gained from assists

[Sarkazmo]

I'm using a wheel and pedals, so even more impressive that you're using a DS4! I'll definitely practice with ABS Weak, but probably after the FIA races are over. I don't think I can focus on anything new in those races and I'm sure it will take me a while to be consistent.

Thank you for the compliment. You're absolutely right about waiting til after the FIA season. I wouldn't want you risking your position. Good luck.

Sark

EDIT: PS - I wish I could use a wheel and pedals but unfortunately with the nerve damage I have in my feet and legs competitive driving is impossible. I can drive a car at road speeds but I think a wheel and pedals would go to waste on me. I have to use the DS4 so I adapt as well as I can.

 

[Sarkazmo]

This question of which is better, ABS Weak or ABS Default, has been on my mind. So today I decided to go back to Default to see how well I would be able to do. First time ever driving the Fittipaldi today in the Race C daily at Maggiore, back to back, two races. Got two laps of practice in before entry, Q'd 4th in both (I set a much faster Q for the second race but still started in 4th.) Won the first as A/A by 21sec. Won the second race as A/S by > 2 sec. No penalties in either for me. Those were my 79th and 80th wins. Default ABS felt easier and more consistent but I did have to adjust my braking points to start braking slightly earlier. I did have a few incidents of going way too deep or too early which were frustrating but I'm going to stay at Default for a couple of weeks for consistency to see if I improve. Thanks everyone for making me question my stance and to spur me to experiment with Default.

Sark

 

[JamCar0ne]

I've been switching between ABS weak and default since the beginning. At launch, weak ABS felt better than default, but they changed it in the first update and default became the go to setting for a long time. Was using the cheap Thrustmaster two pedal set at the time. Have since upgraded my gear to include a load cell brake and the difference between weak and default is very noticeable. ABS weak gives a solid constant brake feel until the ABS kicks in, then it is abs skidding time. Really helps figure out breaking points and when you get them right, makes driving a lot of fun. ABS default seems to engage the virtual ABS function almost instantly as the pedal is pressed and requires a higher pedal pressure to get the same amount of braking. Default is more forgiving if you get it wrong and allows braking during turn in easier.

 

[DriftMethod]

I've been switching between ABS weak and default since the beginning. At launch, weak ABS felt better than default, but they changed it in the first update and default became the go to setting for a long time. Was using the cheap Thrustmaster two pedal set at the time. Have since upgraded my gear to include a load cell brake and the difference between weak and default is very noticeable. ABS weak gives a solid constant brake feel until the ABS kicks in, then it is abs skidding time. Really helps figure out breaking points and when you get them right, makes driving a lot of fun. ABS default seems to engage the virtual ABS function almost instantly as the pedal is pressed and requires a higher pedal pressure to get the same amount of braking. Default is more forgiving if you get it wrong and allows braking during turn in easier.

Which do you think is faster for each of these scenarios?

• Ultimate hotlap time
• Race with no tire wear
• Race with tire wear

 

[JamCar0ne]

Which do you think is faster for each of these scenarios?

• Ultimate hotlap time
• Race with no tire wear
• Race with tire wear

Ultimate hotlap time - Weak ABS because you can brake later and harder for a shorter period of time.

Racing with or without tire wear - can't answer this as is more car depended. Plus you have traffic to deal with and not optimal lines, so driver ability to adapt plays a part. High tire wear means less grip everywhere, not just braking.

Some cars are quicker with default ABS but I couldn't tell you which ones, as I haven't kept track. Tend to try the other (from whichever setting I'm on at the time) when having trouble getting the car to brake well. For example, was practicing for an event using the Alph 4C Gr4 on Sport Medium tires at Dragon Trail - Gardens. At the end of the back straight, was having trouble braking for the tight left-hand hairpin. Using default ABS, was braking at first marker board (200m?) and was not confident to hit apex every lap. Switched to Weak and shortened brake distance by about 30m and able to roll the corner and hit apex easier.

Here is my view on ABS settings:
None - solid braking followed by instant lock-up and lots of skidding.
Weak - solid braking followed by ABS activation (intermittent lock-up) and not as hash skidding.
Default - instant virtual ABS activation that tries really hard to keep brakes from locking up by reducing brake force, requiring more pedal pressure to achieve the desired brake force.

 

[Alpha Cipher]

Ultimate hotlap time - Weak ABS because you can brake later and harder for a shorter period of time.

Racing with or without tire wear - can't answer this as is more car depended. Plus you have traffic to deal with and not optimal lines, so driver ability to adapt plays a part. High tire wear means less grip everywhere, not just braking.

Some cars are quicker with default ABS but I couldn't tell you which ones, as I haven't kept track. Tend to try the other (from whichever setting I'm on at the time) when having trouble getting the car to brake well. For example, was practicing for an event using the Alph 4C Gr4 on Sport Medium tires at Dragon Trail - Gardens. At the end of the back straight, was having trouble braking for the tight left-hand hairpin. Using default ABS, was braking at first marker board (200m?) and was not confident to hit apex every lap. Switched to Weak and shortened brake distance by about 30m and able to roll the corner and hit apex easier.

Here is my view on ABS settings:
None - solid braking followed by instant lock-up and lots of skidding.
Weak - solid braking followed by ABS activation (intermittent lock-up) and not as hash skidding.
Default - instant virtual ABS activation that tries really hard to keep brakes from locking up by reducing brake force, requiring more pedal pressure to achieve the desired brake force.

I have a question: how do you go about trail braking. I use default ABS although I still "trail off" my gradually letting go instead of on/off (video to show how I trail brake). With this driving style, would adjusting to ABS Weak be easier or are there other factors to trail braking that I must take into account to keep myself from understeering?

 

[VFOURMAX1]

I have a question: how do you go about trail braking. I use default ABS although I still "trail off" my gradually letting go instead of on/off (video to show how I trail brake). With this driving style, would adjusting to ABS Weak be easier or are there other factors to trail braking that I must take into account to keep myself from understeering?

Trail braking is still using braking to scrub or slow speed while in the process of negotiating and entering the turn.

Tires only have say X amount of grip and the more of that grip in the front being devoted to braking and slowing the vehicle the less grip available to to devote to the task of changing direction.

One of the reasons that many that trail brake switch more to a rear brake bias that allows the rear tires to assume more of the task of slowing the car which in turn gives the front tires more grip to task to the changing of the direction and still remain in control.

Sort of a delicate balancing act of allowing available grip to multitask at the same time.

That is the best I can try to explain it anyway.

 

[JamCar0ne]

I have a question: how do you go about trail braking. I use default ABS although I still "trail off" my gradually letting go instead of on/off (video to show how I trail brake). With this driving style, would adjusting to ABS Weak be easier or are there other factors to trail braking that I must take into account to keep myself from understeering?

I don't make a conscious effort to trail brake, so I don't know how I do it. But it should be the same which ever ABS setting you use, just that default seems to be better at keeping the wheels from locking.

Tires only have say X amount of grip and the more of that grip in the front being devoted to braking and slowing the vehicle the less grip available to to devote to the task of changing direction.

This is a large part of why I like to do most of the braking in a straight line, I rarely adjust brake bias.

 

[Alpha Cipher]

Trail braking is still using braking to scrub or slow speed while in the process of negotiating and entering the turn.

Tires only have say X amount of grip and the more of that grip in the front being devoted to braking and slowing the vehicle the less grip available to to devote to the task of changing direction.

One of the reasons that many that trail brake switch more to a rear brake bias that allows the rear tires to assume more of the task of slowing the car which in turn gives the front tires more grip to task to the changing of the direction and still remain in control.

Sort of a delicate balancing act of allowing available grip to multitask at the same time.

That is the best I can try to explain it anyway.

I know how it works, it's just that I've seen some ABS Default users trail brake with 100% braking since Default takes care of the work for them, hence why I clarified how I go about in trail braking

I don't make a conscious effort to trail brake, so I don't know how I do it. But it should be the same which ever ABS setting you use, just that default seems to be better at keeping the wheels from locking.

Alright thanks for the advice!

 

[VFOURMAX1]

This is a large part of why I like to do most of the braking in a straight line,

I do the same and I usually other than the 911 only drive front engine rear wheel drive cars and have been playing and putting time in with both ABS weak and turned of completely.

With ABS off, bias towards the front and some practice I have been able to brake effectively much later and harder and have gotten pretty good at not locking the fronts up. I actually like it but I am only DR B as far as pace so that by far does not mean its the best or smart move.

But I feel I am challenging my control skills with the ABS off so I will continue to work on it.

Also watching a replay with nothing lit but the indicator for the headlights on is pretty cool as well.

In the real world I did a fair amount of road racing on two wheels and even early in my racing days when I attended a couple of well respected racing schools on 2 wheels they teach you to basically complete your braking in a straight line and if you needed to trail brake to still scrub off speed the rear brake worked well in moderation of course.

I did that for so long it is ingrained in my head finish most of your braking in a straight line, does not mean it is right in this game but hard to change habits of what you did.

Also find that steering with the rear still works okay sometimes but backing it in and squaring up the corner for the drive out usually is not the optimum method to use!

But I have fun and that is all that matters.