Supra RZ tune??

praiano63
I have a N300 sport soft
Toyota Supra RZ - N300 BOP - Sport Soft - All around tune
Click to expand...

My man your gears are too short on this car. It would work well on a car like the RCF or Ferrari 458 which make max power right before red line.
The Supra makes max power early at 5500RPM then dies down at 6500RPM.
The car WILL be faster if you adjust your gears accordingly.... I know this because i roll race my cars against a ghost down the straights.
 
Armand Manga
My man your gears are too short on this car. It would work well on a car like the RCF or Ferrari 458 which make max power right before red line.
The Supra makes max power early at 5500RPM then dies down at 6500RPM.
The car WILL be faster if you adjust your gears accordingly.... I know this because i roll race my cars against a ghost down the straights.
Click to expand...

To take advantge of the relatively narrow powerband from 4500 to 6500 rpm passing to the 5500 rpm peak , you need a close ratio gearbox . If you´re talking about the top speed, this is an all around tune. If you want more top speed for a given track , just decrease the final gear.
rz.jpg
 
praiano63
To take advantage of the relatively narrow powerband from 4500 to 6500 rpm passing to the 5500 rpm peak , you need a close ratio gearbox . If you´re talking about the top speed, this is an all around tune. If you want more top speed for a given track , just decrease the final gear.
View attachment 710437
Click to expand...

TL;DR
Not every car wants to be revved to its redline, and/or need to have super close gear ratio to make the most out its straight line performance.

I understand what you are trying to say but damn.... lol you're using a GENERIC transmission tuning theory to justify what you did, but not all cars are the same.
What you need to understand is that for the Supra there is NEVER any good reason to have a close ratio box. Not as close are you did.
You will be slower on acceleration AND top speed because you are never hitting max power in the first place. Look at the graph and tell me what you see before VS after peak power. Power after peak drops significantly after 5800ish RPM vs before peak power which is fatter... What that should tell you is that the car makes most of its power for acceleration AND top speed from about 4900RPM-5800RPM. So when i look at your replay at 1:05, you shift to 3rd gear at red line and you're already at 6000RPM it's wasted potential...
Whereas the car would be faster if you shifted at 6500RPM (or even a bit earlier if you want to be perfect) and the needle landed at like 5300RPM once you shifted up. Once you do that you have your baseline, you can always make gears taller for higher top speed.


This is more of a secret i'm giving away if anything.... For example the McLaren MP4-12C makes max power at 7500RPM, but red line shows 8500RPM. The fact of the matter is there is nothing after 8000rpm unlike a 458 so that's when i shift. Once i shift the needle goes back up to 6500RPM depending on the gear i'm on. With this in mind i was able to pass THREE cars down the straight at the start of a BOP rolling race on Nurburgring 24H track layout... I don't even bother pulling up with this car in BOP lobbies (N500/600) anymore because it's that fast, unless a decent driver pulls out the GT3RS. McLaren actually programmed the transmission so it doesn't go past 8k for maximum acceleration unless you're using manual mode. This is an example. McLaren knows what they're doing with their cars.
 
Armand Manga
TL;DR
Not every car wants to be revved to its redline, and/or need to have super close gear ratio to make the most out its straight line performance.

I understand what you are trying to say but damn.... lol you're using a GENERIC transmission tuning theory to justify what you did, but not all cars are the same.
What you need to understand is that for the Supra there is NEVER any good reason to have a close ratio box. Not as close are you did.
You will be slower on acceleration AND top speed because you are never hitting max power in the first place. Look at the graph and tell me what you see before VS after peak power. Power after peak drops significantly after 5800ish RPM vs before peak power which is fatter... What that should tell you is that the car makes most of its power for acceleration AND top speed from about 4900RPM-5800RPM. So when i look at your replay at 1:05, you shift to 3rd gear at red line and you're already at 6000RPM it's wasted potential...
Whereas the car would be faster if you shifted at 6500RPM (or even a bit earlier if you want to be perfect) and the needle landed at like 5300RPM once you shifted up. Once you do that you have your baseline, you can always make gears taller for higher top speed.


This is more of a secret i'm giving away if anything.... For example the McLaren MP4-12C makes max power at 7500RPM, but red line shows 8500RPM. The fact of the matter is there is nothing after 8000rpm unlike a 458 so that's when i shift. Once i shift the needle goes back up to 6500RPM depending on the gear i'm on. With this in mind i was able to pass THREE cars down the straight at the start of a BOP rolling race on Nurburgring 24H track layout... I don't even bother pulling up with this car in BOP lobbies (N500/600) anymore because it's that fast, unless a decent driver pulls out the GT3RS. McLaren actually programmed the transmission so it doesn't go past 8k for maximum acceleration unless you're using manual mode. This is an example. McLaren knows what they're doing with their cars.
Click to expand...
What you need to understand is that i´m just a pizzaiolo , i don´t give a 🤬 .
 
jdmnsprd
please do Ive been searching for one, it would be much appreciated
Click to expand...
Ride height: lower value front & rear, Natural frequency: 2.40/1.80, Anti-roll-bar: 9-10, Compression: 66/63, Rebound: 95/92, Camber: 0.9/1.5, Toe: out 0.15/ in 0.40, L.S.D.: 5-5-35 & i've also made the transmission for less torque, therefore more control! First set final gear to 5.000, next max speed to 280km/h, then 1st: 1.590, 2nd: 1.275, 3rd: 1.017, 4th: 0.831, 5th: 0.697, 6th: 0.601! I hope it's going to help! Let me know :)
 
outofspace
Ride height: lower value front & rear, Natural frequency: 2.40/1.80, Anti-roll-bar: 9-10, Compression: 66/63, Rebound: 95/92, Camber: 0.9/1.5, Toe: out 0.15/ in 0.40, L.S.D.: 5-5-35 & i've also made the transmission for less torque, therefore more control! First set final gear to 5.000, next max speed to 280km/h, then 1st: 1.590, 2nd: 1.275, 3rd: 1.017, 4th: 0.831, 5th: 0.697, 6th: 0.601! I hope it's going to help! Let me know :)
Click to expand...
Great setup but for ride height did you lower front and back to the lowest setting?
 

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