T-GT Failure

  • Thread starter thefraggle
  • 145 comments
  • 34,065 views
Errrrrr, yup, same as you Fraggle. Used my T-GT pedals for just under a month before issues came up with the accelerator. Press down fully, get 50% in game. Have just requested to the retailer tonight for a replacement after no response from Thrustmaster. Consumer law in NZ is reasonably strong so I'm 100% confident I'll get my replacement or money back but this sounds like utter BS from the producers.

How are the T3 pro pedals working out?
 
MercedesC111
Errrrrr, yup, same as you Fraggle. Used my T-GT pedals for just under a month before issues came up with the accelerator. Press down fully, get 50% in game. Have just requested to the retailer tonight for a replacement after no response from Thrustmaster. Consumer law in NZ is reasonably strong so I'm 100% confident I'll get my replacement or money back but this sounds like utter BS from the producers.

How are the T3 pro pedals working out?
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My experience was that thrustmaster will just send you out a new set of pedals. When I got the new set I didn't bother even plugging them in. The pedals that come with them in my opinion are crap.

My T3PA Pro pedals have been spot on and never missed a beat. I genuinely recommend them. I'm now looking at buying the load cell mod for them to make them even better!!
 
thefraggle
Right then, I got my T-GT. I haven't yet had a trouble free day with it.

The throttle pedal dies. No response at all from it. Brake works. Clutch works. Throttle dead.

Have spoke to Thrustmaster and they asked me to to take the back off the pedal unit and check the connections. Is this really the quality that you would expect from a £699 set of pedals?

I had no issues at all with my G29 but a set that cost me more than double instantly gives me problems.

I'm disgusted!!
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The Wheel is amazing, by far the best for gt sport right now, but in the pedal case you are right, they are a piece of s**t.
 
I have the T3PA Pro, after 2 weeks the brake started flipping. So i changed the Potmeter, at the end i switched the clutchpedal with the brake. Now i have no issues

Edit: the best way maybe to go right now is with a cpx adapter on Elite pedals from fanatec, iam not owning the elite wheel but i think at this moment the wheel feedback from gts for T-GT is the best. Because all other wheels are not fully supportet like the full supported tgt
 
Has anyone else had a complete drop off of vibration from the transducer since the last update? I'm not sure if it's my wheel crapping out, or the game that's changed because I also have to turn up the volume far more on my Buttkicker to get anything out of it. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'm having problems shifting with the paddles on my T-GT. It started slow with an occasional mis-shifting on the left downshift paddle. Then it became worse where it mostly doesn't shift at all. Sometimes it shifts all by itself, even shifting to an upper gear sometimes. Now the right paddle has the same problem. In trying to solve the problem, I removed USB cable and air cleaned out the ports and replugged it back in, to no avail.

I want to remove the cover of the T-GT to see if lint or something is blocking a sensor, but I don't know how to remove the cover. Can anyone help me?
 
FPV MIC
Has anyone else had a complete drop off of vibration from the transducer since the last update? I'm not sure if it's my wheel crapping out, or the game that's changed because I also have to turn up the volume far more on my Buttkicker to get anything out of it. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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Did you fix your issue?

zardoz9
I'm having problems shifting with the paddles on my T-GT. It started slow with an occasional mis-shifting on the left downshift paddle. Then it became worse where it mostly doesn't shift at all. Sometimes it shifts all by itself, even shifting to an upper gear sometimes. Now the right paddle has the same problem. In trying to solve the problem, I removed USB cable and air cleaned out the ports and replugged it back in, to no avail.

I want to remove the cover of the T-GT to see if lint or something is blocking a sensor, but I don't know how to remove the cover. Can anyone help me?
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Removing the cover will void your warranty, I highly recommend contacting customer support first. Perhaps they can guide you with opening up the cover without voiding the warranty.
 
super_gt
Do yourself a favor and use the warranty,such problems can be quite tricky to fix.
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I contacted Thrustmaster support through email (I can't find a phone number). They told me to upgrade my driver and firmware by connected it to a PC. Since I don't have a PC, I can't do that. I wrote them this and they say they will have an agent call me, but "because of the high volume of requests we are currently receiving,there may be a delay in our response time."

Is there anyway to update the driver and firmware through the PS4?
 
zardoz9
I contacted Thrustmaster support through email (I can't find a phone number). They told me to upgrade my driver and firmware by connected it to a PC. Since I don't have a PC, I can't do that. I wrote them this and they say they will have an agent call me, but "because of the high volume of requests we are currently receiving,there may be a delay in our response time."

Is there anyway to update the driver and firmware through the PS4?
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Look for family/friends with a windows laptop. Its done in 15-20 minutes and might solve your problem.
 
I have a T-GT that experiences sporadic problems: The wheel can lose its center, the force feedback gets out of whack, etc. Races are ruined.

This thread reminded me about firmware updates in general. Hey! I'll give that a try!

The updater application is for Windows and I have a Mac, but for work reasons I run Parallels so I can run Windows applications in a VM. That should work.

No. It does not work with the T-GT stuff at all. It only looks like it is working. I killed my wheel. My PS4 no longer saw it, the Mac no longer saw it, the wheel stopped recalibrating when plugged in, etc. With only one light on the wheel to indicate if it was alive, and it wasn't lit up, I was pretty worried.

I did manage to find a tech support phone number (go to https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/contact-en/?p=T-GT and go to the bottom of the page to find a number for your country). The rep there directed me to the FAQ for the T-GT, where there is a section on rebooting it even if the firmware is corrupted. That is an easy process, if you have three hands, but it turned out to not work for me on my Mac running Parallels.

Fortunately, my wife has a Windows laptop and with it I was able to not only bring the T-GT back to life, I was able to update the firmware as well.

Whew.
 
PocketZeven
Look for family/friends with a windows laptop. Its done in 15-20 minutes and might solve your problem.
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This is what Thrustmaster support told me too. Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a PC. Since the T-GT was designed with GTS in mind, you'd think that the drivers and firmware could be done through the PS4.

I looked at the paddle stems where it enters the wheel and observed fine dust there. I suspect the problem is as simple as cleaning out the area around the sensors and microswitches. I had a similar problem with my old G27 pedals. After air cleaning out the pedals, the problem went away.

I asked Thrustmaster support if taking apart the wheel will void my warranty (waiting for a response from them).
 
zardoz9
This is what Thrustmaster support told me too. Unfortunately I don't know anyone with a PC. Since the T-GT was designed with GTS in mind, you'd think that the drivers and firmware could be done through the PS4.

I looked at the paddle stems where it enters the wheel and observed fine dust there. I suspect the problem is as simple as cleaning out the area around the sensors and microswitches. I had a similar problem with my old G27 pedals. After air cleaning out the pedals, the problem went away.

I asked Thrustmaster support if taking apart the wheel will void my warranty (waiting for a response from them).
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Try a bit harder to look for someone with a PC. With a few billion windows pc out there in the world you'll eventually find someone owning one! Perhaps someone is running windows with bootcamp? From which (pc-less) place do you come from? Latest firmware is always recommended.
Great that your problem is solved though!
 
JulesDennis
Thrustmaster probucts have problems these past few years.I know that their wheels are better than Logitech but they break way too easy,way too often.
IMO FANATEC is a way better option if someone spends that kind of money.
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still have my g27 frm beguinning of gt6.
Though thinking about csl elite. I have tried one and much smoother than logitech and thrustmaster.imo.
 
PocketZeven
Try a bit harder to look for someone with a PC. With a few billion windows pc out there in the world you'll eventually find someone owning one! Perhaps someone is running windows with bootcamp? From which (pc-less) place do you come from? Latest firmware is always recommended.
Great that your problem is solved though!
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Thanks for the advice. I am an old man without without young people with PCs to help me out. Although note that my problem is not solved.

I suspect that the problem is not firmware because the issue occurred sporadically. Sometimes the gears would not shift, but for days the problem went away. Corrupt firmware doesn't fix itself temporarily does it? It really does act like a dust problem as I had the problem before on my previous wheel that turned out to be dust.
 
I think I solved my paddle shift problem. I wanted to open up the wheel to clean any lint or dust in there but Thrustmaster support said it would violate my warranty (like PocketZeven said). So I did the next best thing by using an air can (the one that comes with the long thin tube) and sprayed it into the slots where the paddle shifter arms enter the wheel, and voila, problem solved (at least for now). I previously air sprayed the usb ports thinking it was a cable connection problem but, no, it's a dust problem in the wheel itself. I've been racing for the last 2 hours and the paddles are now working without a hitch.

So if anyone else is having problems with shifting or pedals, try an air can first before going through hell with Thrustmaster "support." It's curious that Thrustmaster never suggested that it may be a dust problem. I suspect a lot of the T-GT problems are related to this very common cause and I'll bet their high volume traffic of troubles could be solved by suggesting the simple stuff first.

But now that people are telling me that there are new drivers and firmware updates, I'm wondering if there are other problems that I'm not aware of. So what problems do the updates solve? Also, I only knew of the new updates by visiting here. I never heard from Thrustmaster about this.
 
I was asking about the firmware because I DID NOT fixed the firmware to my T-GT.

I just bought the T-GT on last december, i plugged it into my PS4 PRO to play only GT Sport and i never had a problem.

I do not understand why so many people get trouble with it. WTF r u doing to your wheel? LOL !!

I have no problem at all with mine and everything is perfect, the pedals are perfect too with the cone behind the brake pedal. I love mine.
 
MINKIHL
Edit: the best way maybe to go right now is with a cpx adapter on Elite pedals from fanatec, iam not owning the elite wheel but i think at this moment the wheel feedback from gts for T-GT is the best.
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I have it running this way with CSPv3 pedals and it is infinitely better than with the Thrustmaster pedals. Not only the adjustable load cell brake (which you can aditionally adjust with the CPX, so it is very easy fine tuning how hard you have to hit the brake to have 100% brake effect in GTS), but I also find handling the throttle much easier due to the longer travel - due to the non-linear input in GTS it is much easier to have those fine adjustments in throttle input, especially out of slower corners with RWD cars.

I had the original T-GT pedals in use before that, without as well as with the brake mod - but this is a joke compared to the Fanatec pedals.
 
Meggle
still have my g27 frm beguinning of gt6.
Though thinking about csl elite. I have tried one and much smoother than logitech and thrustmaster.imo.
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100% agree mate.
BTW G27 is a great wheel in terms of durability and a good investemt overall back in the day.
 
zardoz9
I think I solved my paddle shift problem. I wanted to open up the wheel to clean any lint or dust in there but Thrustmaster support said it would violate my warranty (like PocketZeven said). So I did the next best thing by using an air can (the one that comes with the long thin tube) and sprayed it into the slots where the paddle shifter arms enter the wheel, and voila, problem solved (at least for now). I previously air sprayed the usb ports thinking it was a cable connection problem but, no, it's a dust problem in the wheel itself. I've been racing for the last 2 hours and the paddles are now working without a hitch.

So if anyone else is having problems with shifting or pedals, try an air can first before going through hell with Thrustmaster "support." It's curious that Thrustmaster never suggested that it may be a dust problem. I suspect a lot of the T-GT problems are related to this very common cause and I'll bet their high volume traffic of troubles could be solved by suggesting the simple stuff first.

But now that people are telling me that there are new drivers and firmware updates, I'm wondering if there are other problems that I'm not aware of. So what problems do the updates solve? Also, I only knew of the new updates by visiting here. I never heard from Thrustmaster about this.
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Great tip! Thanks for posting your experience. It did sound like an dust issue. Concerning Thrustmaster support there have been different experiences told on various sites. Not sure if there is a large difference between EU and US. I really wish there was some source to find out if Thrustmaster failure rate is really that high? Concidering Thrustmaster is a healthy company I cant believe QC to be as bad as the internet lets the people believe. It would have been cheaper to revise the T300/TX then to RMA each product failure.

The driver updates are primarily for support with new add-ons (R383, P310, TM Open wheel etc.) and perhaps some compatibility fixes.
 

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