T300rs gt ffb settings?

77
Australia
Australia
Just picked up this wheel after upgrading from a g29... Was wondering what are some good base ffb settings to use for it on gt sport? I ran sensitivity on 10 and torque on 2 on the g29. I notice when I put the torque up to say 4 or 5 on the t300 the wheel gets much stiffer to turn, still smooth though... Is this what people usually go for? It vibrates much better on curbs but I wasn't sure how stuff wheels on ffb are supposed to feel. My g29 was very light on any feed back
 
I have a T300 GT as well, nice wheel. I run 3 Torque and 1 Sensitivity, the sensitivity scale is reversed, so 1 is most sensitive and 10 is least sensitive. Don’t forget to plug it into you laptop before use and update it’s software to the latest version as well, I’ve heard the older versions were not as good as the latest one by a decent margin.
 
Just picked up this wheel after upgrading from a g29... Was wondering what are some good base ffb settings to use for it on gt sport? I ran sensitivity on 10 and torque on 2 on the g29. I notice when I put the torque up to say 4 or 5 on the t300 the wheel gets much stiffer to turn, still smooth though... Is this what people usually go for? It vibrates much better on curbs but I wasn't sure how stuff wheels on ffb are supposed to feel. My g29 was very light on any feed back

Pigems' advice very good, especially about updating.

I searched online for "best settings for T300RS" and there's so much advice out there, everything from 1,1 to 10,10!

I think it would be good to get a car you like driving, take it into Arcade / Time Trial on a track with a lot of mixed bends, inclines etc. I think I used Red Bull Ring. Then fiddle about with the settings until you get something that suits you.

We're all different - I "settled' on 4 torque, 5 sensitivity which is a bit middle-of-the-road but suits most of the cars I drive (and if it doesn't I will just change it!)

Hope you enjoy your new wheel....:cheers:
 
Thanks guys... I will do some trial and error tomorrow and see how it feels, I appreciate the heads up about 10 being least sensitive! That's a weird way to design it lol. I assumed 10 was most... Will do frimware first thing in the morning, that completely slipped my mind... Cheers
 
I have a T300 GT as well, nice wheel. I run 3 Torque and 1 Sensitivity, the sensitivity scale is reversed, so 1 is most sensitive and 10 is least sensitive.

Are you absolutely sure on this? I had no idea, i think a lot of others might have it right the wrong way too if so! Will give it a go next time I'm on.

But i also run torque 3 on my T300RS
 
Are you absolutely sure on this? I had no idea, i think a lot of others might have it right the wrong way too if so! Will give it a go next time I'm on.

But i also run torque 3 on my T300RS

If my memory serves me correctly yes, at the time of getting my wheel I did a bunch of reading and watching YouTube videos on the subject, I also I tried it on both ends of the scale and there really isn’t a whole lot of difference from one end to the other, but there is a little if you’re looking for it. :)
 
Can someone here explain the "Sensitivity" setting? I have mine on 10 and thought that was "most" sensitive. I had no idea it reversed. I also use a T300RS. Thanks, in advance.
 
Can someone here explain the "Sensitivity" setting? I have mine on 10 and thought that was "most" sensitive. I had no idea it reversed. I also use a T300RS. Thanks, in advance.

I'm Interested in this information as well if it's the same for the T-GT
 
From what I've read and experienced, FFB Sensitivity 10 is the most sensitive, 1 is the least sensitive.

Generally, people with Thrustmaster wheels use high sensitivity and low torque. If you turn down the sensitivity you are missing subtle details of the track, and the details it does pick up will be slighter, especially if you run a low torque setting like most Thrustmaster users do, because they are particularly strong wheels. I think reliability issues also arise with torque settings above 5 or 6. Just too much load for the motors.

If you set torque low and sensitivity high, you're attempting to pick up more details of the track while keeping torque low enough to not muffle their impact by generating substantial feedback for tiny undulations. If you're simply not interested in all the tiny details of the track, keep sensitivity low, but I don't ever recommend high torque, especially on the T300 RS GT. Not only will it die sooner, but you'll be interpreting small bumps as large bumps, undulations, etc..

I usually keep torque on 5 and sensitivity on 9, but for certain combos I turn the torque down to 4.
 
From what I've read and experienced, FFB Sensitivity 10 is the most sensitive, 1 is the least sensitive.

Generally, people with Thrustmaster wheels use high sensitivity and low torque. If you turn down the sensitivity you are missing subtle details of the track, and the details it does pick up will be slighter, especially if you run a low torque setting like most Thrustmaster users do, because they are particularly strong wheels. I think reliability issues also arise with torque settings above 5 or 6. Just too much load for the motors.

If you set torque low and sensitivity high, you're attempting to pick up more details of the track while keeping torque low enough to not muffle their impact by generating substantial feedback for tiny undulations. If you're simply not interested in all the tiny details of the track, keep sensitivity low, but I don't ever recommend high torque, especially on the T300 RS GT. Not only will it die sooner, but you'll be interpreting small bumps as large bumps, undulations, etc..

I usually keep torque on 5 and sensitivity on 9, but for certain combos I turn the torque down to 4.

Ok I was under the impression it was reversed on the sensitivity also from other post I've seen.
I run torque at 5 and sensitivity at 3 so I guess I will try it at 5/7 and see how that feels

Thanks for the info.
 
I run torque on 3 and sensitivity at 10. I've never understood why some say that there is no track detail in GT Sport. It's there. I can pick it up with my settings but it is much more subtle than in other games/sims.

I started with the torque on 4 but felt like the wheel and I were working too hard at that level. I don't recommend 3 for anyone else because the resistance would probably be too low for most. It suits me just fine though. I would never go higher than 4, that's for sure.
 
I'm going to try sensitivity at 1 now that I've watched that video. Thanks @Pigems

I had been running mine at 9 before digging into it too, just go back and forth from 10 to 1 on the same track/car a few times, you can change it mid lap in the pause menu. I used a rally car to try to amplify the road feel for testing, but I did test on normal tracks as well. :)
 
Here’s what the GT Sport Online Manual says about FFB Sensitivity:

“・Force Feedback Sensitivity
Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to the driver through their tires. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. When this value is lower, steering becomes gentler when driving in a straight line. Increasing or decreasing these values allows you to adjust the controls to suit your driving style.”

It makes sense to me that if you call your setting “sensitivity” the higher the number the more sensitive it will be. It also would make less sense for every other setting to have an opposite scale than just this one. FFB Torque clearly gets stronger the higher the setting and gets weaker with lower settings.

I won’t be able to play the game for a couple days to try this myself but I can think of one good test based on this description:

Go to La Sarthe in a Gr.1 car. The long straights on this track have a lot of detail. If you don’t grip your wheel firmly, or if you attempt to let go of it for too long while driving straight, the wheel will start to wobble and you’ll lose control of the car if you don’t grip it tightly again and correct. Try this using drastically different sensitivity settings. If a low setting allows you to let go for awhile without having to correct, or if you simply don’t feel the undulations as much in a straight line and don’t need to grip the wheel as firmly to prevent the wobble, then low sensitivity means less track detail. If the wobble is more dramatic and requires more effort to correct or maintain stability with a low setting, then the scale is inversed and a low setting means high sensitivity and more track detail. I experience a lot of wobble and it feels like I feel the entire track, every bump, with a high FFB sensitivity setting. But of course, I could be wrong so try it yourself.
 
Here’s what the GT Sport Online Manual says about FFB Sensitivity:

“・Force Feedback Sensitivity
Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to the driver through their tires. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. When this value is lower, steering becomes gentler when driving in a straight line. Increasing or decreasing these values allows you to adjust the controls to suit your driving style.”

It makes sense to me that if you call your setting “sensitivity” the higher the number the more sensitive it will be. It also would make less sense for every other setting to have an opposite scale than just this one. FFB Torque clearly gets stronger the higher the setting and gets weaker with lower settings.

I won’t be able to play the game for a couple days to try this myself but I can think of one good test based on this description:

Go to La Sarthe in a Gr.1 car. The long straights on this track have a lot of detail. If you don’t grip your wheel firmly, or if you attempt to let go of it for too long while driving straight, the wheel will start to wobble and you’ll lose control of the car if you don’t grip it tightly again and correct. Try this using drastically different sensitivity settings. If a low setting allows you to let go for awhile without having to correct, or if you simply don’t feel the undulations as much in a straight line and don’t need to grip the wheel as firmly to prevent the wobble, then low sensitivity means less track detail. If the wobble is more dramatic and requires more effort to correct or maintain stability with a low setting, then the scale is inversed and a low setting means high sensitivity and more track detail. I experience a lot of wobble and it feels like I feel the entire track, every bump, with a high FFB sensitivity setting. But of course, I could be wrong so try it yourself.

Before I read this I tried the Jag XJ13 on La Sarthe for 2 races (might as well earn some dosh while testing!). Did one race with sensitivity at 1, the other at 10. Both races had torque at 4.
I could hardly notice any difference...... so I have stuck it back to 5. :)

Just to add am using straight T300RS, not the GT version.
 
Not sure if this means anything but i find on the T300 set to the PS3 setting makes it much smoother and precis, for some reason on PS4 it gets rough and more torquey for me.
 
Not sure if this means anything but i find on the T300 set to the PS3 setting makes it much smoother and precis, for some reason on PS4 it gets rough and more torquey for me.
Doesn't that disable a lot of the buttons?
 
Not sure if this means anything but i find on the T300 set to the PS3 setting makes it much smoother and precis, for some reason on PS4 it gets rough and more torquey for me.

Are you running it on the latest update? It should work better in PS4 mode I would have to think.

Edit: @seadog777 As far as I know the only difference between the T300RS and the T300GT are the Pedals, the GT has the T3PA 3 pedals set and the RS has the standard 2 Pedals set, also the GT wheels has a GT logo in the center of the wheel instead of the PS logo, but same wheel otherwise. :)
 
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/some-thoughts-on-ffb-sensitivity.384232/

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-settings-question.377414/

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/

Those 2 threads and that article are the most informative sources I've found on this site regarding FFB Sensitivity. I see where the whole "inverse damper" perception may have come from now, because if you have FFB Sensitivity low, that means high damper and less detail, high sensitivity setting means low damper and more track detail. I still stand by my initial claim as well as what is shown in game, that the higher the number, the more sensitive to track details it is. Having said that, I think the differences aren't very large from 1 to 10, and people can be fast and comfortable on many different settings. It all depends on what works for you.
 
Can anyone suggest. When going through the update and wheel configuration process whilst plugging in to a PC. What is the best steering angle percentage for the t300 gt? Please can someone help? I’m losing what little hair I have left
 
Can anyone suggest. When going through the update and wheel configuration process whilst plugging in to a PC. What is the best steering angle percentage for the t300 gt? Please can someone help? I’m losing what little hair I have left

If it's for playing GTS, I may be wrong but I believe whatever you set makes no difference as the programme sets it automatically according to what car you're using.

If you're using it for a game where you can set it, I think the bigger the number, the more you have to rotate to get the same front wheel angle - for me that means the lower the number the better, because I am lazy :cheers: But I'm no expert and someone else will give better info.
 
Last edited:
If it's for playing GTS, I may be wrong but I believe whatever you set makes no difference as the programme sets it automatically according to what car you're using.

If you're using it for a game where you can set it, I think the bigger the number, the more you have to rotate to get the same front wheel angle - for me that means the lower the number the better, because I am lazy :cheers: But I'm no expert and someone else will give better info.


You probably do know more than I on this topic (which is why i asked the question) But to play the dunce of the class. Is there any correlation between the lower the percentage number ie 40% is the shortest throw (20%full lock left and 20% FLR) and the tyres howling like a ware wolf the moment I go a fraction beyond?
Wouldn’t that qualify as some indication of transferable adjustability?
Not trying to be a smartayse but this is why I’m frustrated.

Thanx in advance
 
You probably do know more than I on this topic (which is why i asked the question) But to play the dunce of the class. Is there any correlation between the lower the percentage number ie 40% is the shortest throw (20%full lock left and 20% FLR) and the tyres howling like a ware wolf the moment I go a fraction beyond?
Wouldn’t that qualify as some indication of transferable adjustability?
Not trying to be a smartayse but this is why I’m frustrated.

Thanx in advance

That's way beyond my pay grade but there are some very knowledgeable folk on this forum and someone who knows will chip in! :dunce:
 
Regardless of the settings you land on, plug the T300RS into a PC and set the motor can to run constantly. A lot of people complain about motor failure on these units... Setting the motor fan to run constantly is a good way to prevent overheating issues that can degrade the motor. The fan makes some noise, but its only something i notice in a silent room prior to starting a game. I cannot hear the fan during gameplay.

Instructions for setting the fan to run constantly are in the product manual.
http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00156.pdf

Also, this thread includes a lot of previous discussion on GTplanet about the ideal T300RS Settings:
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/thrustmaster-t300-settings.372542/
 
Gt sport t300 I ran either 2 or 3 and 10 sens. Tons of hours no prob. Never put fan to constant run that’s not a good idea imo.
The fan is thermostatically controlled and constant unnecessary run will wear the fan motor out prematurely causing total loss of cooling and failure.
I ran like 20-21 days on my wheel. Maybe 500 hours. The only issue I had was the button press once or twice a week. On mine I found it’s cause was radial force applied to the wheel while turning. That means force perpendicular to the wheel drive. As long as I didn’t do that it worked excellent.
A friend is still using that wheel. I don’t know how much times on it now. In gts you can feel the limits of grip really really well and I think takes a lot of practice to learn. After time you will learn to feel the car load up and lock in, but it takes time.
I put stiffer pedal springs in my stock plastic pedals, but they weren’t great pedals.
Wheel is very nice imo.
I advise those settings and don’t change.
@Winnie847 was spot on.
 
Last edited:
I've never heard of a t300rs fan burning out. The motor is the part that fails, any safeguard to prevent overheating is recommended.

Fans run constantly, for years in pc's, consoles, and other electric equipment that requires cooling... and fan failure is a very rare occurrence, largely because fan units have very few parts and therefore very little to go wrong. Actually, the largest stress placed on a fan is the startup. I would argue that having it constantly switch on and off based on cooling needs dictated by the thermostatic control increases degradation of the fan. Unless you know something specific about the t300rs fan that makes you think its a piece of garbage, I don't see why you'd recommend against running the fan continually.
 
I run my wheel on forced cooling mode at all times, my Wheel/PS4 can be on at time for 6-8 hours at times but it never even gets warm. I’d rather have to replace a little fan some day than the motor/wheel itself. :)



Can anyone suggest. When going through the update and wheel configuration process whilst plugging in to a PC. What is the best steering angle percentage for the t300 gt? Please can someone help? I’m losing what little hair I have left
You probably do know more than I on this topic (which is why i asked the question) But to play the dunce of the class. Is there any correlation between the lower the percentage number ie 40% is the shortest throw (20%full lock left and 20% FLR) and the tyres howling like a ware wolf the moment I go a fraction beyond?
Wouldn’t that qualify as some indication of transferable adjustability?
Not trying to be a smartayse but this is why I’m frustrated.

Thanx in advance


“The moment you go a fraction beyond” kinda sounds like you’re just hitting the point of understeer/plowing the front tires. As far as I’m aware, and I’m no expert by any means, you can’t transfer wheel lock setting to GTS, the games adjusts them automatically in game depending on the car you are driving.

The pedals calibrate themselves similarly every time you power up the wheel, I found that out when I was trying out the rubber brake mod that came with my wheel. I had be driving normally, then paused and put the mod in without unplugging the wheel and when I resumed driving I couldn’t get 100% braking until I unplugged the wheel and let the pedals recalibrate when it was plugged back in.
 
Last edited:
I've never heard of a t300rs fan burning out. The motor is the part that fails, any safeguard to prevent overheating is recommended.

Fans run constantly, for years in pc's, consoles, and other electric equipment that requires cooling... and fan failure is a very rare occurrence, largely because fan units have very few parts and therefore very little to go wrong. Actually, the largest stress placed on a fan is the startup. I would argue that having it constantly switch on and off based on cooling needs dictated by the thermostatic control increases degradation of the fan. Unless you know something specific about the t300rs fan that makes you think its a piece of garbage, I don't see why you'd recommend against running the fan continually.


Industrial experience with variable frequency drives and other equipment.
I don’t have data on t300 failures, or even know which fan or fans is in those, but cooling fan failure is a common issue in my day to day especially when default setups cause continuous run.
That’s why I mentioned it.
My concern would be losing the fan and continuing use and then burning up the motor.
I dunno if these wheels will overtemp shutoff. Like I said I’m no expert on this equipment, but cooling fan failure is plenty common with electronics in my field.
Often now well designed stuff makes provisions so that fans are very easy to replace for this reason.
Anyways I don’t have data on t300. Maybe it’s perfectly fine.
My recommendation for just gt sport would be low torque high sens stock fan setting. Just offering thoughts on it.
:)
 
Back