Thrustmaster T300 settings
- Thread starter derutatu
- 95 comments
- 75,988 views
- 1,281
- CENLA
- SoCaLLbeer
For the wheel's in GTS there are really only two settings. FFB Max Tourque and FFB sensitivity.
Try starting with the following
FFB Max Tourque at 3 (this is your max FFB strength - in my opinion 3 is too low and 4 is too much but 3 works well enough)
FFB sensitivity at 8-10 (this is how responsive the FFB is also seems to make it more dynamic)
You can also try raising FFB strength and lowering sensitivity but this could make things feel dull.. but FFB is a personal preference so have at it. Just don't run it so crazy strong that you overheat your wheel.
There is a canned in FFB for the T300 that makes a vibration when you understeer. If you do not like it switch your T300 to ps3 mode and it will act as a T500 and the vibration will be gone. You have to remap your buttons under the T500 and will need to use a DS4 controller for some, but not many, of the menus.
I recommend you turn off the assists for counter steering and active stability management.
ABS is up to you.. I like to use the middle setting (not default but not off, I forget what it is)
Side note - if you have not already.. using a windows PC install the Thrustmaster T300 drivers and upgrade the firmware.
Also turn on the mode that keeps the fan on at all times - this is done by pressing the mode button and the options button at the same time. Don't need to hold them down, just press them at the same time. If you are in a really cold room and the fan sound bothers you, you can skip this, but it will likely turn on anyways as the wheel warms up.
Try starting with the following
FFB Max Tourque at 3 (this is your max FFB strength - in my opinion 3 is too low and 4 is too much but 3 works well enough)
FFB sensitivity at 8-10 (this is how responsive the FFB is also seems to make it more dynamic)
You can also try raising FFB strength and lowering sensitivity but this could make things feel dull.. but FFB is a personal preference so have at it. Just don't run it so crazy strong that you overheat your wheel.
There is a canned in FFB for the T300 that makes a vibration when you understeer. If you do not like it switch your T300 to ps3 mode and it will act as a T500 and the vibration will be gone. You have to remap your buttons under the T500 and will need to use a DS4 controller for some, but not many, of the menus.
I recommend you turn off the assists for counter steering and active stability management.
ABS is up to you.. I like to use the middle setting (not default but not off, I forget what it is)
Side note - if you have not already.. using a windows PC install the Thrustmaster T300 drivers and upgrade the firmware.
Also turn on the mode that keeps the fan on at all times - this is done by pressing the mode button and the options button at the same time. Don't need to hold them down, just press them at the same time. If you are in a really cold room and the fan sound bothers you, you can skip this, but it will likely turn on anyways as the wheel warms up.
- 634
- United States
FFB Max Torque: 4
FFB Sensitivity: 6
FFB Sensitivity: 6
- 3,131
- IL, USA
- DigitalBaka
- DigitalBaka587
I run sensitivity at 5-7 and torque at 3-4. I believe my current settings are 5-4 which seems pretty good all around.
On driver aids, if this is your first wheel try to run with everything off. It'll take longer to get used to but it'll make you better learning to control everything. I run ABS default but I feel if you switch to weak you'll be that much further ahead of the game. I just can't be bothered to make the jump at the moment.
Did not know about the fan mode so I will have to try that. Before the winter my fan used to run a few minutes after I shutdown the PS regardless. I have the sound up loud enough or use headphones so the extra noise would not bother me.
On driver aids, if this is your first wheel try to run with everything off. It'll take longer to get used to but it'll make you better learning to control everything. I run ABS default but I feel if you switch to weak you'll be that much further ahead of the game. I just can't be bothered to make the jump at the moment.
Did not know about the fan mode so I will have to try that. Before the winter my fan used to run a few minutes after I shutdown the PS regardless. I have the sound up loud enough or use headphones so the extra noise would not bother me.
This is crazy. I set a fast ghost lap with the controller of 1m10 flat on full Suzuka with no assists other than ABS as default.
5 laps down and have gone from 9 seconds slower to 0.7secs! Not anywhere near as consistent as with controller for obvious reasons but very encouraging this early.
5 laps down and have gone from 9 seconds slower to 0.7secs! Not anywhere near as consistent as with controller for obvious reasons but very encouraging this early.
- 634
- United States
- 811
- United Kingdom
I changed the spring under the pedal to a firmer one. I then also put another spring against the post that holds the rubber cone which goes against the back of the pedal
- 634
- United States
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
Ya'll are a bunch of weaklings 
FFB Torque @ 6 for me !
FFB Torque @ 6 for me !
7&7 all day. Although while running Yamagiwa over and over today, almost 1000km, the FFB did fade out on me a few times. I didn’t know about the always on fan setting though. There’s two things now that the manual makes no mention of, the other being how the mode button plus left or right on the d-pad changes the max degrees of rotation.
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
- 243
- Belgium
Best settings to catch your rear end in RWD cars: 7/8/2 (7 controller sensitivity, 8 torque, 2 FFB strength).
I find it strange nobody in this thread is sharing their controller sensitivity, it makes a ton of difference on a steering wheel, more so than ever in GTS.
When I drift I always use 7/8/2, when I qualify and race I always use 4/4/5 or 4/4/9.
Controller sensitivity at 0 is horrible on a steering wheel.
Take any car, go into cockpit view, put sensitivity on 0 and watch as your ingame wheel turns at a slower rate than your T500/T300/G29/TGT. Change Controller sensitivity to 1 and you'll notice your ingame wheel responds simultaneous with your T300/T500/g29/TGT.
I have been testing with this since day 1 of the closed beta, for me personally controller sensitivity is far more important than FFB torque or strength because it changes the response time of your front tyres, even on every single steering wheel. The higher your controller sensitivity, the easier it is to catch a car that looses its rear end because it just feels a lot more realistic with a higher value at controller sensitivity.
Drifting: 7/8/2
Racing: 4/4/5 and/or 4/4/9
I find it strange nobody in this thread is sharing their controller sensitivity, it makes a ton of difference on a steering wheel, more so than ever in GTS.
When I drift I always use 7/8/2, when I qualify and race I always use 4/4/5 or 4/4/9.
Controller sensitivity at 0 is horrible on a steering wheel.
Take any car, go into cockpit view, put sensitivity on 0 and watch as your ingame wheel turns at a slower rate than your T500/T300/G29/TGT. Change Controller sensitivity to 1 and you'll notice your ingame wheel responds simultaneous with your T300/T500/g29/TGT.
I have been testing with this since day 1 of the closed beta, for me personally controller sensitivity is far more important than FFB torque or strength because it changes the response time of your front tyres, even on every single steering wheel. The higher your controller sensitivity, the easier it is to catch a car that looses its rear end because it just feels a lot more realistic with a higher value at controller sensitivity.
Drifting: 7/8/2
Racing: 4/4/5 and/or 4/4/9
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
- 243
- Belgium
Like I've said, i find this to be the most important factor. It has a HUGE impact on your steering.
Take any car, use the cockpit view, press options, change controller sensitivity and behold the change of your ingame wheel compared to your own steering wheel.
It changes response time of your wheels turning. -2 being the slowest, 7 being the fastest.
For example: I can't catch my drifts with 0/8/2, because it does not feel like it should, the wheel does not respond fast enough but when I use 7/8/2 it's as if my car feels as it should feel when the rear end goes sideways.
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
I can't remember my settings, but when I was using a controller, I found 2 adjustments higher than default for sensitivity to be about as high as i'd possibly want to be. I don't know how that correlates with a wheel until I try it but I know cars that are already sensitive to input (MR cars) may be even more sensitive to those sorts of changes. The Porsche 911 for me for eg is already a pretty twitchy car, subject to oversteer quite easily... This would make that car even worse IMO. Obviously a bit of practice would benefit with a higher sensitivity though.
- 243
- Belgium
The lower you set it, the slower your wheels returns to the center, the higher you set it, the faster your wheel returns. If i go below 4, cars become more & more twitchy. That's exactly why I use 7 for drifting.
I can't compare DS with wheel because I refuse to use a pad when I have a T500 & a G29
- 2
- Lisboa
- Guganoid
Hello Friends,
Not related with T300 Settings, but yesterday, and following all the instructions, i tried to update with no success the firmware of my T300 GT Edition (bought dec 2017). In the control panel i have the information that i'm with v25. I know that the last firmware is v28. When i try to update it's says that i have the last version...v25. I've tried everything. Do you have any knowledge regarding this issue?
Ohhhh...and i have 4/3 in my setting!
Regards,
Not related with T300 Settings, but yesterday, and following all the instructions, i tried to update with no success the firmware of my T300 GT Edition (bought dec 2017). In the control panel i have the information that i'm with v25. I know that the last firmware is v28. When i try to update it's says that i have the last version...v25. I've tried everything. Do you have any knowledge regarding this issue?
Ohhhh...and i have 4/3 in my setting!
Regards,
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
The lower you set it, the slower your wheels returns to the center, the higher you set it, the faster your wheel returns. If i go below 4, cars become more & more twitchy. That's exactly why I use 7 for drifting.
I can't compare DS with wheel because I refuse to use a pad when I have a T500 & a G29
I don't understand your comment. I tried this and it made no difference whatsoever.. I don't even understand what it is you're explaining when i think about it.
A wheel should have a linear response. You turn it to 90 degrees, it turns to the 90 degree position in game at the same rate you turn in real life on your whel. If what you're suggesting is true, then the response curve would be non-linear. Meaning faster at one half of the curve and slower at the remainder. Or distorted - to put it another way. That doesn't make sense.
GTS description (in game) says the the sensitivity you're talking about is related to the controller.
- 54
- Melbourne
- not_dyl
Is it in PC mode? Make sure you pull the USB cable out, put the switch to PS3 mode, then power back on before trying. I've found switching from PS4 tO PS3 wihtout a power cycle can screw things up..
- 104
- Oxford
My T300 is strange, realised I raced on my PS4 Pro yesterday with my T300 in PS3 mode and it worked fine...
