Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress

  • Thread starter Mr Latte
  • 279 comments
  • 61,658 views
If you get the image we can discuss options...
I would think your seat should use standard rails in the base, for example cobra do a similar "office chair" type attachment for their proper race seats to convert for office style seats. Im not sure how well say a stereo tactile effect would work but you certainly could go with two units. Using one for really low bass enhancement and the other for added detail. What is the DSM3000?

Now that I know your in the UK then its handy for links or possible purchases.
You can get cheap steel plate on ebay, we can discuss options more later if you wish.
 
Here is an old image (shared it a few times in the past)
When I got my first fullsize LFE it blew me away in the additional low end power it delivers. Basically it can produce a sensation that other units don't manage to deliver. Superb with music as well as gaming. If you just want mono non directional tactile this idea will more than please.



Personally I found with testing the LFE works best in a seat when partnered also with a TST (though it may work well with something like an ADX). Using both units on the same channel but to deliver the LFE high energy impact with improved detailing from the secondary transducer.

It just depends on your ideas if you fancy trying to get stereo tactile imaging or to have a platform for your feet as well as tactile in the chair?
 
IMG_20161006_083028.jpg IMG_20161006_083217.jpg IMG_20161006_083230.jpg IMG_20161006_083240.jpg IMG_20161006_083252.jpg IMG_20161006_083303.jpg Took some photo's this morning. As you can see I'm a little restricted for space. My immediate thought is to take the seat off and put in between a sheet of MDF or steel plate, at least then I can attach the transducer right at the back, even if it over hangs a little as I have to allow for the recliner when leaning back. Sorry about the confusion on the amp I meant the Berhinger Inuke NU3000dsp I think I will need the extra clout if I do go down the LFE route. Thanks again Greg.
 
Thanks Greg for posting images...

From an installation basis I don't see this being that difficult.
A piece of steel plating, even 5mm thick long/wide enough and drilled where required. This could be placed at the back and to the main structure. Long enough to reach to the back of the seat and be fixed by the front/back horizontal bars.

Then replace the threaded bolts with ones long enough and consider some rubber/foam dampening material and/or washers which may help prevent the metal (cause a ringing tone) from vibrations.

Similar to the drum stool mounting plate...



Questions:

Would you be interested in going for a 2.1 type configuration?



Do you have an old home cinema AV receiver with HDMI, PRE-OUTS and 4ohm support or any past knowledge of them? Yamaha / Denon / Sony / Pioneer / Onkyo ?

Not sure if your interested in the idea of using 1-2 ADX models to try and get working stereo. These could work on the section below the arms. Such an amp would solve your connection problems also and ebay is full of 2nd hand models that could be ideal.

If you want to reduce vibrations going down into the wheels floor then yes it would be best to have the metal plate bolted to the main frame then approx 4 Buttkicer rubber isolators sandwiched between 2 plates. Making a smaller 2nd metal plate to attach the original wheel/upright section to. This could add almost 1.5" height but can easily be adjusted in the seat anyways and of course require the same M8 / M6? bolts in longer lengths.

You could use MDF or a solid wood but the metal will help with stronger vibrations being maintained. Search ebay for steel plate it wont be that expensive. You may even find a company will cut to shape/size and drill the holes you need. Additionally perhaps some anti vibration rubber matt material or wooden floor underlay material.
 
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Hi Mr Latte, yes a 2.1 configuration sounds good but I would probably wait a bit for the two ADX units due to finances and get the larger LFE which you recommended. Unfortunately I don't have any old receivers kicking about and I'm a bit clueless when it comes to which ones would be suitable. Am I right in thinking that I either need a 3 channel amp or possibly two amps. if the latter is the case then would you recommend I get the large LFE and the Berhinger Inuke NU3000dsp and then add the others later?
 
I get what your saying regards budget and to be fair this isn't necessarily a cheap thing to get into especially with the amp and larger LFE coming in around £500. So yes you could gradually work towards what we discuss, err if it is what you want.

The inuke 3000 DSP hasnt changed in price much in the last 2-3 years. Although the LFE at one time were available for around £230 so I see they have went up quite a bit recently. I am not aware of any multi-channel amp that is suitable for the wattage loads of the LFE.

Options:
I guess you could decide to go with a 2nd hand AV receiver bargin and the two ADX before committing to the LFE. This would be cheaper with an amp not costing too much. Older are needed as many today are not 4 ohm compatible. I can help recommend a few.

If you want to just clamp to the main stem it can be done and the Pearl Thumper which is basically an Advance unit.
See Here . It is the same idea as the BK Gamer with more powerful amp but is only a mono solution. It will produce a good whack but trust me when I tell you the full size LFE is still much better with the low end and worth the extra if you seek the best or hardest hitting bass below 20Hz.

What sources do you want to use this with, XB1 games or also music etc?
 
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I don't know what you think but I fancy getting the full size LFE and the inuke 3000 DSP first then the two ADX's and a Inuke 1000DSP in the spring. I've been designing a template and second top plate this evening. I will take it along to a local fabrication shop tomorrow.

I want to hook it up to my pc and I also have an xbox one. Project cars on Pc,Iracing plus some other FPS. on Xbox, Forza, Assetto Corsa, Gears of War, COD
 
Righteo, do take note the inuke amps are quite loud with the fans and the ADX if in future you go for them you may find they generate a bit of noise (like speakers)

Simvibe could perhaps operate with front wheels and extension in a 3 way config which can then easily be adapted to work in 2.1 with game audio no problems.

I too enjoy action games with my own and also even some music as well.
 
If not the iduke what amp would you recommend for the full size LFE? I saw on one of your other post you had a image on swapping the fan over for a quieter one. Are they that noisy?
 
If not the inuke what amp would you recommend for the full size LFE? I saw on one of your other post you had a image on swapping the fan over for a quieter one. Are they that noisy?

Most PA type amplifiers have such fans. Similar noise say to a GPU with the fans at a high level.
I never swapped any of mine but dont really hear them with the audio turned up.

Hard to find a much better amp for similar money with such wattage tbh.
The inuke DSP feature is useful in various ways like digitally limiting the wattage per channel and being able to tune the LFE to operate only below say 45 or 50Hz (they can be annoying above this). The other benefit is using the simple to work PEQ to tailor the equalisation of independent frequencies if you wish. I keep saying this as it is a BIG benefit with tactile over normal amps.

Using 2.1 Type Config
The ADX would operate best from approx 40Hz and this is why such a combination could work well together, the LFE in my example is not even producing much of the frequencies that the ADX will so then it does not interfere so much with the possible directional L/R effects they may produce.

If you didn't do this and the LFE was able to work free range with all frequencies like a normal amp then it is likely its excessive power could drown out the ADX and ruin any possible directional felt tactile as it would just become one mush of vibrations all using the same (full range) of the source.

Importance of Installation Placement
Here is an example from my own early testing from years back.

What you learn is multiple tactile all installed/connected to the same location/section doing much the same thing regards frequencies but on different channels (Left/.1 Sub/Right) will not work so well. Here the frequencies are not in tandem as the channels are different and are effectively fighting against each other causing possible cancellation. They also are too close together with the L/R not having a good installation placement to help produce effects to either side of the seat.

Because the ADX in your build could have direct contact to the arm sections they should transmit the vibrations into the sides and arm rests with ease. Additionally under arms is quite a sensitive area for bone conduction. You may even want a metal platform for these that enables their point of contact to be a bit more to the front of the seat. This could help under your legs/thighs detect the L/R in having the point of contact further forward but it may not make much difference as the seat obviously has a good metal structure anyways. Testing is the only way to determine these things if you want to discover what feels best for you. A bit of MDF board may be easier to work with to do this that is if you want to compare two installation options. Each individual is different and I guess some are less patient and may just settle for one installation.

Dual Role
No doubt you see me commenting a lot on this...
What I found to do, that worked well was similar to creating the effect of a "large floorstander or tower speaker" and utilising individual/different units for single roles by using a crossover on the LFE to act as "woofer" and the others to operate more as "mid range". This is what we are doing in a tactile configuration with of course the much reduced frequency bandwidth it uses. The ADX may still require a little tuning in the 60-80Hz range and even limit their operating range to around 100-130Hz depending on how lively they may be with a good operating wattage applied and the source being played. This would be possible again with the PEQ via DSP being powered by a DSP 1000 if later purchased.

Look forward to your progress..
 
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Quick example:
Multichannel Audio

This type of unit would allow you to take "optical output" from a PC or Console but split the audio channels from stereo or 7.1 audio. From your perspective it may depend on the game/source if you prefer to have the LFE Buttkicker working via ".1" or as "centre" or in dual mono using "stereo" when you get around to incorporating the stereo ADX units.

In a racing game you may find the "centre" works well for the engine and allow the ADX to only present the tactile from L/R kerbs. In other titles you may want the ".1" as it will produce the low frequency from (all channels) using Dolby Digital. Alternatively you may just be happy to use it taking bass from the L/R channels (good for music). Just gives options from game audio in how it may respond or what you prefer.

Im not sure if XB1 allows hdmi and optical digital to work simultaneously but their will be workarounds but needs additional boxes.

Alternative
The thing is you could get a bargin 2nd hand AV Reciever that even if not using to power tactile acts as a glorified input/output AV box. It also enables you to easily "mute" via remote control the tactile including if routing the LFE to inuke. Such could easily power multiple ADX for even dual stereo in seat and pedals or a "Simvibe Chassis" with basic EQ features (i have owned before). It wont be 4K compatible to route hdmi video though but will support 1080p video and audio routing.

(I currently use a similar Sony 5200ES model to linked below, that powers my 4x TST units I use in Dual Role mode.)

Sony 1200 ES
 
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I really appreciate all of your input and I'm taking it all onboard. Yesterday I took the plunge, I've ordered my full size LFE and Inuke NU3000dsp. I should have the steel plates by middle of next week they are being laser cut so will look really smart, although I'm going to spray them first. I just need to work out the cabling and connectors needed. I will look back over some of your older posts. Once I have this setup and running I will probably be on the look out for a second hand receiver ready for stage 2. I'll post pictures next week when everything arrives so that hopefully it helps anyone else not knowing where to start.
 
No problems, well done on the purchase, thats a big commitment to enter into tactile with...
Glad to see you wanting it seems to make this a high quality installation, indeed with some thought and patience in doing it right. :)

Cabling should be covered in past posts but feel free to ask. You could eventually have upto 3 cables having to go to the chair if doing the 2.1 so your requirements may be a bit different and this is potentially possible in a single cable that could easily be disconnected (freeing the chair)rather than 3 separate cables to plug/unplug when using.

It could be possible to have speakon connectors built into the chair/metal plate (as a connection panel) and hiding possibly the cables to the tactile with them hardwired underneath. It may then also be possible to have a multicore cable in the length you need act as a single cable to the chair with 3 connections.

Look into basic "stage boxes" to get an idea of what to copy and the numerous types of connections but it just depends how much this bothers you or effort you want to put into it and time/money your willing to spend.

(inspiration only)
https://www.thomann.de/gb/the_sssnake_mc_6_multicore.htm

https://www.thomann.de/gb/the_sssnake_mc_8_multicore.htm?ref=prod_rel_157984_0

(lots of stuff here)
http://www.canford.co.uk/Neutrik/NEUTRIK-JACK-PLUG-GLANDS-C-series
 
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Howdy from North Carolina, USA

I have recently purchased 2 ADX Maximus shakers and an inuke 1000DSP amp.
Running Simvibe in extensions mode and mainly racing in Project Cars and Asseto Corsa.
Currently I have only an office chair to set this up until I can afford a proper sim cockpit.
Attached are photos of my install. I used 3/4" Oak hardwood as a material of mount the shakers. I mounted one ADX under my chair and the other on the back of my pedals. (pics below)

I have some amp setup questions:
The amp is set to dual mono mode.

Wattage limiting-
I found out these shakers run a 50 watts RMS 100watts peak.
Should I set the limiter to 100watts 4 ohms or something under that to protect my shakers.

Filters-
These are rated at 20hz to 100hz frequency response.....so

I set the HP to 20hz and the LP to 100hz. butterworth 24db

PEQ-

I read this shaker has a resonance frequency of 45hz, so I cut this frequency 6db with a very narrow Q

---------------------
With all that said, I hope you will offer me some guidance.
Any suggestions, corrections, configuration help, or criticisms would be appreciated.

20161008_114341.jpg



20161008_114350.jpg


20161008_114444.jpg


20161008_114503.jpg


I also found these quick connect adapters that fit the ADX Maximus to a tee:

Seismic Audio

Seismic Audio - 1 Foot Banana to Speakon Adapter Patch Cable - New Black - SAPT301

442522a4-fd5d-4240-a281-9c6f060989bb.jpg


link: http://www.seismicaudiospeakers.com/search?query=sapt301


Thanks in advance for you help and thank you for all your help with us newbies.

Dennis
 
Hi Dennis, I would try them limited to 50W but you may find with Simvibe its output when at 0db may be more dynamic/stronger than when using game audio sources for audio tactile generation.

I prefer to ALWAYS recommend people try a "test tone generator" to become aware of different Hz and how they feel. This way you can get an idea how 20hz may feel on your ADX compared to say 45Hz. You then can use the PEQ to possibly boost/cut some frequencies and this tailors how the tactile operate, something you cant do with a normal amp or specifically in Simvibe software.

You could be of help to Greg if you would try some tests perhaps.
Would you mind doing the same idea as this user did with your ADX setup to see how you feel it performs?

This is a good Tone Generator

Personally I am in some ways happy with Simvibe but in others a bit disappointed. It certainly didn't deliver the level or sense of directional effects I had imagined even with the best hardware but the reason being many of the effects (while good) seem to operate in a mono fashion. Additionally for me "user generated engine tones" made from nothing cannot be that accurate nor deliver the same immersion detailing as "audio tactile can do". Sure they can represent "an engines operation" but not the "actual simulated cars engine" being driven.

Berney will of course always go on about how accurate Simvibe aims to be and that "audio tactile" isn't accurate as it contains turbo sounds, exhausts etc and not just engine vibrations. This is true but at least it is often recorded from the actual car. Of course me being me I tried and tested both (combined) with rather good results, this way you feel the engine tone but also get the character of the car being driven.

Your welcome to give it a try if you want to learn how to on one of your extensions.
 
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Hi Mr Latte, I've just made a check list, if you wouldn't mind could you check to make sure I haven't missed anything out.
1 x 3.5mm male -XLR Male (I'm not sure if it has to be balanced or unbalanced) ebay
5 metre length of 12 gauge speaker cable ( Does the quality of the speaker cable improve the performance?)
3 x Speakon 2 pole D chassis connectors
2 x Neutrik NL2fx 2 pole Speakon plug male

I'll fit the 3 chassis connectors into my steel plate but obviously only using one for the time being.

Once my LFE is fitted to the chair is it right I use bare cable from the connectors in the LFE then maybe solder onto the underside of the speakon connector or would you just crimp and use spade connector.

As for my sound card I have 5.1 built into my motherboard and I also have a pci creative Sound blaster Z series. Can I use the onboard sound or will I have to purchase another sound card that has 5.1 and optical out?

On the Inuke one input will come from the pc and the other can be connected to my xbox one?

Thanks again Greg
 
Hi Dennis, I would try them limited to 50W but you may find with Simvibe its output when at 0db may be more dynamic/stronger than when using game audio sources for audio tactile generation.

I prefer to ALWAYS recommend people try a "test tone generator" to become aware of different Hz and how they feel. This way you can get an idea how 20hz may feel on your ADX compared to say 45Hz. You then can use the PEQ to possibly boost/cut some frequencies and this tailors how the tactile operate, something you cant do with a normal amp or specifically in Simvibe software.

You could be of help to Greg if you would try some tests perhaps.
Would you mind doing the same idea as this user did with your ADX setup to see how you feel it performs?

This is a good Tone Generator

Personally I am in some ways happy with Simvibe but in others a bit disappointed. It certainly didn't deliver the level or sense of directional effects I had imagined even with the best hardware but the reason being many of the effects (while good) seem to operate in a mono fashion. Additionally for me "user generated engine tones" made from nothing cannot be that accurate nor deliver the same immersion detailing as "audio tactile can do". Sure they can represent "an engines operation" but not the "actual simulated cars engine" being driven.

Berney will of course always go on about how accurate Simvibe aims to be and that "audio tactile" isn't accurate as it contains turbo sounds, exhausts etc and not just engine vibrations. This is true but at least it is often recorded from the actual car. Of course me being me I tried and tested both (combined) with rather good results, this way you feel the engine tone but also get the character of the car being driven.

Your welcome to give it a try if you want to learn how to on one of your extensions.
Hi Mr Latte, I've just made a check list, if you wouldn't mind could you check to make sure I haven't missed anything out.
1 x 3.5mm male -XLR Male (I'm not sure if it has to be balanced or unbalanced) ebay
5 metre length of 12 gauge speaker cable ( Does the quality of the speaker cable improve the performance?)
3 x Speakon 2 pole D chassis connectors
2 x Neutrik NL2fx 2 pole Speakon plug male

I'll fit the 3 chassis connectors into my steel plate but obviously only using one for the time being.

Once my LFE is fitted to the chair is it right I use bare cable from the connectors in the LFE then maybe solder onto the underside of the speakon connector or would you just crimp and use spade connector.

As for my sound card I have 5.1 built into my motherboard and I also have a pci creative Sound blaster Z series. Can I use the onboard sound or will I have to purchase another sound card that has 5.1 and optical out?

On the Inuke one input will come from the pc and the other can be connected to my xbox one?

Thanks again Greg
 
Mr Latte,
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes I will be running the test tones and getting back to you on that. I assume my readings will differ due to my specific set up. It will be interesting. Also you indicated that I might be able to get better engine sounds using game audio on one of my extensions. Please do elaborate on that.
My current set up:
default sound card: External USB Steinberg UR44 audio interface. This runs my speakers which are ROKIT 8 studio monitors and 1 Rokit 10" sub.
Simvibe sound card: This is an onboard soundcard on my Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7 motherboard. It is setup as 5.1 config and I am running in extensions mode.

I did try the 50watt limiter but the shakers were only fair in response. I upped the limiter to 100watts and got better results. Do you think this might possibly harm my ADX's long term? I am thinking that by using 3/4" Oak that I might have over done it somewhat and the ADX's are having a hard time with the mass of the boards getting the vibrations to my butt.....

I will post my tone test readings in the next few days.

Thanks
 
Will be interesting to get your own findings and see how they compare, I do think the users installation can make differences but the hardwood board should be a good enough material/platform for the tactile.

Greg wont have this issue so much due to the amount of energy the LFE has but I think I know a remedy worth trying.

Seat Underside
Possibly you have a proportion of the tactile energy going down into the seats wheel frame via the metal plate and shaft and not all going up into the seat itself. Not saying this is a solution but if the wooden platform was larger and made more contact with the internal metal structure/frame it could deliver the vibrations more into the seat. I see it only bolts in the centre so you could apply wide velcro strips around the outer border of a larger board and with your weight on the seat it should stay in contact to the underside material.

To prevent some of the energy going down instead of up into the seat. I would suggest (like above) you use the current wooden piece (cut to size of metal plate) to act as a secondary platform. Use at least 4x rubber isolators (T100 or Buttkicker) in between the 2 platforms using new longer bolts to secure the seat base.

Basically the ADX bolts to the 1st bigger wooden platform in contact with the underside, you then isolate this and bolt the smaller 2nd platform to it which then connects to the seats wheel frame. It should when isolated trap more of the vibrations in the now bigger board so they are maintained more in the seat.

If your tactile need the extra watts then you have to go with it, if you set the limiter to 100 watts then that is the peak with the amp at max volume. So obviously go a bit below this with the volume knob and it should still be okay. I do think if the ADX was being over-driven it should have thermal protection to turn off?

Soundcard I/O
I too have the Gaming 7 board which does have decent audio compared to most on-board solutions.
Like the look of your your Steinberg UR44, interesting because as being an I/O have you tried to do similar monitoring within a DAW with your 2 Ext Mode from Simvibe or indeed game audio output? It certainly is useful to help learn how the effects are operating for visual reference and understanding more what the tactile is doing.

If you have experience in using a DAW you may already have plugins but here is a decent (Free Plugin) for monitoring the Hz. I had no prior knowledge with such at all so just learned myself as I went along.

The Engine Audio
Its simple, you could likely do it through a DAW with mixing the input from "stereo audio" into a mono signal combined with the "Simvibe Engine" or other effects. It could be done with appropriate cables too. Maybe for some a small cheap mixer would allow them to duplicate the "stereo audio output" from the game and use one for speakers and another for this application. Then to also connect the "Simvibe Extension" and mix the two together with their own volumes.

I had just started with doing this but hadnt done that much into testing with it but the early result was really good. Have been taking a break for a few weeks away from Simvibe as have been enjoying some general gaming.

What I did was use the C7R in Asetto Corsa as a reference. Assetto is good as it gives great control over the engine/transmission and audio output from the game. Some games may not give as much individual control.

Anyways I used a decent Simvibe engine tone generation with multiple layers. I got a nice feel for the engine response with this but for me compared to "audio tactile" its very linear, you miss the whole character of the car. Now what is "realism" may differ from what is "entertaining" but when combining and matching volumes for both the "Simvibe Effect and Audio Tactile" what I felt was much much better for me.

Now with this car on idle, it felt awesome and alive as it had all the character from the engine HZ from the game audio but I still could easily feel the energy from the engine revs coming from Simvibe which you dont feel with audio tactile on its own.

Maybe at another time I will share in more detail cables or options but its not that difficult. I do like the idea of a small mixer though which I could use to increase one volume or another for either source. Of course someone could also do this with 2 units, one being for Simvibe and the other just normal audio tactile. Dont be afraid to experiment.

Please do give it a try or others as it would be good to get other peoples response to it or if it doesnt work so well in other games than Assetto Corsa.
 
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Hi Mr Latte, I've just made a check list, if you wouldn't mind could you check to make sure I haven't missed anything out.
1 x 3.5mm male -XLR Male (I'm not sure if it has to be balanced or unbalanced) ebay
5 metre length of 12 gauge speaker cable ( Does the quality of the speaker cable improve the performance?)
3 x Speakon 2 pole D chassis connectors
2 x Neutrik NL2fx 2 pole Speakon plug male

I'll fit the 3 chassis connectors into my steel plate but obviously only using one for the time being.

Once my LFE is fitted to the chair is it right I use bare cable from the connectors in the LFE then maybe solder onto the underside of the speakon connector or would you just crimp and use spade connector.

As for my sound card I have 5.1 built into my motherboard and I also have a pci creative Sound blaster Z series. Can I use the onboard sound or will I have to purchase another sound card that has 5.1 and optical out?

On the Inuke one input will come from the pc and the other can be connected to my xbox one?

Thanks again Greg
 
Hi Dennis, I would try them limited to 50W but you may find with Simvibe its output when at 0db may be more dynamic/stronger than when using game audio sources for audio tactile generation.

I prefer to ALWAYS recommend people try a "test tone generator" to become aware of different Hz and how they feel. This way you can get an idea how 20hz may feel on your ADX compared to say 45Hz. You then can use the PEQ to possibly boost/cut some frequencies and this tailors how the tactile operate, something you cant do with a normal amp or specifically in Simvibe software.

You could be of help to Greg if you would try some tests perhaps.
Would you mind doing the same idea as this user did with your ADX setup to see how you feel it performs?

This is a good Tone Generator

Personally I am in some ways happy with Simvibe but in others a bit disappointed. It certainly didn't deliver the level or sense of directional effects I had imagined even with the best hardware but the reason being many of the effects (while good) seem to operate in a mono fashion. Additionally for me "user generated engine tones" made from nothing cannot be that accurate nor deliver the same immersion detailing as "audio tactile can do". Sure they can represent "an engines operation" but not the "actual simulated cars engine" being driven.

Berney will of course always go on about how accurate Simvibe aims to be and that "audio tactile" isn't accurate as it contains turbo sounds, exhausts etc and not just engine vibrations. This is true but at least it is often recorded from the actual car. Of course me being me I tried and tested both (combined) with rather good results, this way you feel the engine tone but also get the character of the car being driven.

Your welcome to give it a try if you want to learn how to on one of your extensions.
 
Here are the tests that I did this morning:

Hardware Setup

inuke 1000DSP @ 98watts limited 4ohms 50% vol (Green output from pc to amp)

Cross over @ 150hz Butterworth 24db



Audio SweepGen

Test FQ range: 10-130hz, Sine waveform, Log mode, Speed- Manual, Output Lvl:0



ADX Maximus



See pics on previous post for mounting



Results

91-130Hz = 1 resonant boost @ 113
71-90Hz = 2
59-70Hz = 3
41-58Hz = 4
32-40Hz = 5 33-38 Peak
28-32Hz = 4 resonant boost @29
21-27Hz = 3
17-20Hz = 2
10-17Hz = 1 was able to feel down to 10

Hope this might prove useful.
 
Greg Garfoot
Hi Mr Latte, I've just made a check list, if you wouldn't mind could you check to make sure I haven't missed anything out.
1 x 3.5mm male -XLR Male (I'm not sure if it has to be balanced or unbalanced) ebay
5 metre length of 12 gauge speaker cable ( Does the quality of the speaker cable improve the performance?)
3 x Speakon 2 pole D chassis connectors
2 x Neutrik NL2fx 2 pole Speakon plug male

I'll fit the 3 chassis connectors into my steel plate but obviously only using one for the time being.

Once my LFE is fitted to the chair is it right I use bare cable from the connectors in the LFE then maybe solder onto the underside of the speakon connector or would you just crimp and use spade connector.

As for my sound card I have 5.1 built into my motherboard and I also have a pci creative Sound blaster Z series. Can I use the onboard sound or will I have to purchase another sound card that has 5.1 and optical out?

On the Inuke one input will come from the pc and the other can be connected to my xbox one?

Thanks again Greg


Just got to reply to this sorry if late,
I think that is okay, no need for branded cable and yes balanced would be fine, You will find (guides or videos) for XLR/Speakon and things like balanced cables that can better show you than I can. The LFE connections will also accept speaker cable/banana plugs like some nice Nakamachi.

You can set any sound-card for the role you deem for it, also remember your GPU will output audio via HDMI so some use this for game audio. If going with Simvibe it gets a little tricky for your config if setting it up for eventual 2.1 layout. Your likely best to use front wheels, not rear in "Chassis Mode" for the ADX. You could duplicate this output so that the LFE gets the same L/R signal (doing it in mono so no L/R directional as one unit) this you then control via the inuke limiting its frequency to say under 50Hz. However you could use the LFE individually as an "Extension Mode" instead (needing 2 soundcards). This way you can give it individual effects compared to the L/R.

From memory (not got my notes at hand) the only effect you cannot set via EM is "Suspension Bump Surges" and the reason I think it is not available is in how it operates across two units. IIRC I noticed in some titles it seemed to operate based on the steering wheel input, kinda like a weight transfer or g-force type effect applied to the L/R units. A single unit cant do this so I assume this may be a reason it is not available in EM mode but CM only. Simvibe manual/guide does not give proper in-depth descriptive explanation for most of the effects or settings but its only been out for 4 years (dig). Apparently though something is coming in future, how good or useful it will be is anyone's guess.

I cant say as to what you would prefer using the LFE with so I would consider doing both for your own comparisons.
Your Xbox One needs the audio to go to your screen/speakers so you have to duplicate it and create an analogue signal. This may be possible from a tv if it supports audio output. If not then confirm if you can output audio from it via both hdmi and optical at same time. If so you can then use one of those adaptors already shown for optical or one that does the same with hdmi connection.
 
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Here are the tests that I did this morning:
Hope this might prove useful.

I hope it was useful for you as well.
When you compare your findings they are not much different to @Soulfresh_ACV.
In general as often found with these price points or types of units like the original Aura Pro (not newer PE one) your scores as his both point to around 20-70hz being the best frequencies with the mid 30 - 40 being amongst the strongest or peaks.

You also with your scores highlight something I have said for years yet for instance Simvibe mentions recommending upto 130Hz or more. I personally find little benefit over 100Hz with most effects in Simvibe due to the fact that they are hard to feel and often other frequencies being stronger and used with Simvibe divert your attention or mask them anyways. I did find "speed based noise" was one effect that could utilise much higher frequencies but found litle gains with general suspension, engine and bumps beyond 100Hz.

Test this yourself by setting whatever effects you want in Simvibe to 130Hz or whatever. Then simply use the inuke DSP to only operate from say 100Hz - 130Hz. Now you will feel only exactly those frequencies even though Simvibe is running as normal. I recommend to people with inuke dsp that you can do this for any frequencies to test how your units feel with only specified frequency ranges and importantly when testing individual effects operation. I would recommend possible steps of 20Hz at a time (20-40 40-60 60-80 80-100) This can be useful to then fine tune via PEQ by adding or reducing the dB for specific frequencies in such ranges. This works well with my Clark TST with past tests but I think some tactile units may struggle to present much differences with minor tweeking.
 
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OK! hoping to get gears 4 at the weekend Gears 2 will take some beating. Gamertag is Grunkle02.

Yes Horizon looks good too, as does F12016 and Fifa out now as well. Having to wait, Patience isn't one of my virtues LOL

Hoping to get my plates by tomorrow, wiring and connectors either today or tomorrow. Paint spray the plates and assembly by the weekend.

I will send photo's so if there is anyone else considering may help with decision. All my mates think I'm nuts.
 
OK! hoping to get gears 4 at the weekend Gears 2 will take some beating. Gamertag is Grunkle02.

Yes Horizon looks good too, as does F12016 and Fifa out now as well. Having to wait, Patience isn't one of my virtues LOL

Hoping to get my plates by tomorrow, wiring and connectors either today or tomorrow. Paint spray the plates and assembly by the weekend.

I will send photo's so if there is anyone else considering may help with decision. All my mates think I'm nuts.

I always enjoy people sharing their projects. If you want from here continue it in your own thread, it's upto you...
 
Yes 3.5mm stereo to XLR for inputs
Inuke models use SPEAKON type outputs, covered in this thread probably a few times already.
The amp needs the connectors the Buttkickers / tactile dont.

Some people do put one on the end of the Buttkicker cable and then one on the end of cables from amp. This lets you unplug them if you ever want to but requires male-female speakon connection types or a coupler in between say two male. See #194 above thats what he did.

inuke amp out - speakon male - cable - speakon male - coupler - speakon male - tactile or Buttkicker

or

inuke amp out - speakon male - cable - tactile / Buttkicker
 
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