Tactile Info & Buyers Guide / Comparisons / Opinions - Work In Progress

  • Thread starter Mr Latte
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As many of the threads I did here now have non-working images.


I will place here for those interested some newer threads linked to Race Department forums.
Please note, I have no issue with GT Planet or members here but with less time, I cant reply to the PM I get (apologies) and I sought after more PC specific sim forums that suited my interests going back to PC platform for my main gaming.

I have work done towards a review/guide thread on the inuke dsp amplifiers and their features. Yet I have held this back in part being scunnered but also as I was covering

Audio Cable Guide
Easy to understand and in-depth W.I.P
Future guide on "Audio Terminology" to follow soon.

Simvibe EM Vs CM Installations
Some good info on BK models
Trying to raise interesting questions and discussion but it got virtually little - no interest or feedback.


Buttkicker Bottoming & Thermal Issues / SOLUTION
A friend tests settings we discussed via VOIP to determine what and how to workaround this issue. BV may criticise the usage of DSP or EQ being used, yet this example shows how useful it can be if used properly.
Thanks to @jennanitro and video/test used to illustrate issue...

Simvibe Members Market
I created with others giving feedback a Porsche 911R profile for Assetto Corsa.
It has many layers but is an example of whats possible. (Simvibe lacks a good way to organise or self label them) so its not ideal for such. Most users may need to alter volumes for each layer but settings were done to operate well on the majority of tactile.

Additionally something simple but nobody, seemingly done before.

Porsche 918 Test Tone
This for Assetto Corsa, select that car and use that cars engine to test 10-90 Hz for 1000-9000 RPM. I created this "engine profile" to be accurate in supplying 10Hz for every 1000 RPM (with the 918 car) as some were using Simvibes own "Channel Test Tone" within its settings to supposedly test their tactile. Simvibe did not have a function to use its own in-game realtime "Tone Generation" for such purpose. I seen people on ISR forums wanting one, so came up with a basic solution using engine rpm.

Simvibes Test Tone Issues
While it states nowhere to use it for such.. This feature is faulty and not accurate nor I believe was it ever fixed. I believe it was only intended to feel a response from connected tactile when setting up your configuration.

Yet some people were using it to test their tactile and did not even catch on to this outputting the same tone only at a higher/lower intensity via the slider. (I can see the Hz it outputs, so know why it crashes with EM, at a specific value).

Sim Shaker Wheels
This is recent software that uses tactile but more akin to a G-Seat like the GS4.
Instead of moving panels it uses tactile and also can incorporate this product.
Can produce some good effects, not in Simvibe so worth checking out at Race Department forums.

Glad if it helps or is of interest......
 
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Hey Left888,
Give the man some credit here. I have over the years been watching all of his passionate working on tactile and I cannot agree with what you're saying. It is more than obvious to people that have talked to Mr Latte in pm's or through the various threads and forums that he is honestly and deeply interested in tactile and with a critical view to get the most out of it. Of course most people are not keen to follow him to the extremes he perceives, and that is disappointing to him. There is obviously no agenda as suggested by BV, and honestly I cannot justify it. When you have someone that is trying to make the most out of your software you cooperate with him and make your product better. If you turn him away you are stubborn and a bad businessman.
Yes tactile can be easy, but simvibe makes it complicated and there is very bad support from the creator.Come on man, you crate the most promising add on software for a simulator and you dont give it the love it deserves.
And of course the BK Mini simvibe edition ******** should have been taken more seriously by the sim racing community. I don't know if BV was aware by ButtKicker 's marketing ****, but anyway. He obviously didn't like that Mr latte pointed it out.

Now, I think that as a community we need a good tactile software, which is easy to understand, and be able to make the most out of it, whether it's in a 50$ setup or a 2000$ setup.

If Mr. Latte is seeking his interests in a lonely journey that people come aboard and leave at times, it's his story and no one has a reason to judge it degatively, nor him of course.

I'd like to thank you Rodney, for your invaluable help to the community, and for never refusing to answer to everyone and every little repeating question. Yes, you are overspending time to the same things some time abd analysing stuff that most people are not so interested, but you do your thing. Enjoy it.
 
Hi Guys,
I've been looking around the web for a nice basshaker and amp, I know buttkickers are hard to get and expensive so here's my cheap version:
amp: http://s.aliexpress.com/U3UFrQby has crossfading and seperate sub output.

basshaker:http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/...W-Sinuslive-Bass-Pump-III-8-?ref=searchDetail

any thoughts if 70watt would be enough for a nice shake?

I'm planning on installing just one under my seat for now.

edit: if the cheap amp is really BS the other option is this one: http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/...ilt-in-amplifier-module-80-W?ref=searchDetail (3x more expensive though)
 
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Still one of the best small amp and one used by many for tactile to my knowledge is SMSL 98 offering 160w per channel. This means user, will not be anywhere close to the amps max output for constant usage. They can even manage to power Buttkicker Mini LFE models if you ever got one in the future.....

I'd spend a bit more tbh over what you linked but your choice for 1st option.....

Amazon UK

Amazon.com

Amp you linked seems to be based off a car amplifier and has very limited power, likely requiring to run it close to max volume. Drawbacks of doing that with (ALL) amps is introducing a higher level of possible distortion and lack of composure. Just pointing out that tactile are quite demanding on amps...

Consider it like running on a treadmill at full speed (with amp you linked), to only walking on one, in generating the same level of energy the tactile units require.

Below is the newest/similar model.

Adds Bluetooth support. So this, if user wanted to use the amp to switch between audio/speakers & tactile usage, could be easily implemented via a speaker switch-box/changing cables. You could then either, stream via Bluetooth device audio to speakers for one application (wireless quality may be average) and use for tactile for another all in a nice little (4.5" W by 1.25" H by 7" D) packaged amp.


For some may be worth considering, see specs in link

Lepai LP7498E

As an example to the distortion factor (THD) regards output volume mentioned above: While this varies with each product. The specs for this Lepai amp, list (Total Harmonic Distortion) @ 10% - 160W Vs 1% - 125W

Amps prefer to walk.... :D
 
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thanks for the feedback. I was specifically looking for amps with seperate subwoofer output and crossfading options to regulate the freq going to the transducer. finding a cheap more powerfull amp without these 2 options will be a lot easier. If you don't think it will be necessary..
 
thanks for the feedback. I was specifically looking for amps with seperate subwoofer output and crossfading options to regulate the freq going to the transducer. finding a cheap more powerfull amp without these 2 options will be a lot easier. If you don't think it will be necessary..

Even with an "audio tactile" input source using full range of frequencies. Can I ask what are you going to crossfade for low/mid bass with a unit that only operates on paper from 20-80Hz?

You could have 20Hz -20K coming in "from audio source" but the transducer is only able to produce @ 20-80Hz already. What your attempting to do is perhaps more needed on a tactile unit that supports a much larger frequency range. BK @250Hz & Clark TST models 800Hz. With those you may only want to use below 130Hz for Simvibe or "Audio Tactile". In general Bass frequencies have lost most of their energy beyond 90Hz, being more akin to a mobile phone buzz over this and increasingly more audible with harmonics and higher frequencies.

The Bass Pump I assume will have its best bass response from around 40-60Hz.
Maybe @Outspacer can give more feedback on their true abilities?

I keep abreast for new products, Still currently, you won't get a better or more affordable amp for control than the iNuke DSP 1000 for approx 160 GBP /189 Euro /199 US Dollar and unlike a sub amp is not limited to powering a single mono channel.

You don't really need a sub out channel, or "Bi-amping" thats more suited to speaker units in powering only the "mid/highs" by one amp/channel for that speaker driver and powering "low bass" by another for a woofer driver unit. Basically the frequency range being split for each channel/amp prior to amplification.

(See later post covering crossover feature, built into iNUke DSP)

As Outspacer shares a unit like the Reckhorn is a bit more capable. I believe the ADX model may be the current best below the price-point of the Buttkickers. Though I wouldn't expect it however to be a great deal better than the Reckhorn and the price difference at the moment is in the Reckhorns favour for performance/value.

Hope its some help
 
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Thanks Sick Cylinder

I finally get to connect all the cables to 2 of the Mini LFE, turned on the power and it works!!!! :)

The Inuke have many tweaks, do you know were I can find some presets or information regarding Inuke and Tactile, as I get vibration on almost every sound and lack some more strong vibrations on hits and crashes?
I think I read in some forum about this but I already try to find it but with no result!!! :(

Thanks for all the help.

Regards

Sorry for only replying now.....

If you havnt already, then download the Remote Connect software (Behringer Website) and follow instructions to connect USB. It is very easy to grasp using the onscreen display and altering the crossover controls. You can see visually with different settings, filters how it changes the slope and then feel the difference as your doing it, especially from "Audio Tactile" sources.

EQ is more for boosting or cutting specific frequency ranges or individual frequencies amplitude (energy) and fine tweaking.

Save a setting (amp will load with previous/last used)
Test and play around if unsure just load the default setting again, you will get the hang of it.

Worth watching / see how simple it is...


The controls the iNUke DSP offer not so long ago would of been approx £200 worth of separate /specialist hardware. Thats why today its still one heck of a bargin for what it offers in an affordable amp.

Good Luck...
 
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Typical...

I find this thread after ordering a Reckhorn BS-200i! Looks like there is a lot of good info in here, I will be reading tonight!

I'll be bolting the Reckhorn to my office chair, until I order a proper cockpit. Question: Do I make an L shape arm bracket and mount the Reckhorn to that, so it moves about a bit when its working, rather than directly to the chair?

I have an extremely underpowered Lepy 2024A+ amp and ordered a LPF. I'm keeping an eye out for a 2nd hand active sub, or upgrade my current active sub and use that for this project. I'm not prepared to use my Peavey & BSS equipment for this as it would be way too loud.

Seeing Mr Latte's post above.. Does anyone know of someone using a Raspberry Pi with external soundcard for this sorta thing, filtering frequencies, etc.
 
9 pages of thread and I still feel confused about what should I buy for my PS4 & Simetik K2 rig. For audio I use HK3490 Stereo Receiver (not sure if it's important here). I'm looking for rather easy to install solution and this rig is rather stable one. I was decided for BKG2 but there are a lot of negative opinions about it (because overheating problems). Behringer products usually gets also mixed reviews. Not sure what I should do then...
 
I thought I would give an update on my el Cheapo setup. My requirements were it had to come in under £100.. Reckhorn BS200i screwed to the base of an office chair and a cheap 20WPC 12v Car Amp and and a really cheap Low pass Filter..

Reckhorn BS-200i - Very good

LEPY 2024+ Amp - Small car style amp, 20W Per Channel - Small, very bright front LED ring
- It is small and light, it does power the Reckhorn, but you do have to be careful not to send a rubbish signal to the Transducer, I do not put it above 2/3rd volume. Really this is way underpowered and will be replaced, but it is enough for the moment. I probably wouldn't recommend this amp as you can pick up better, more powerfull car sub amps with low pass filters that would work a lot better and less likely to blow the Transducer.

LPF - This is complete rubbish and is not a low pass filter. It does have a tone pot, but this also adjusts the volume, the other knob adjusts the volume too. I hooked it up to a full range speaker as I could not work out what it was doing, despite having a DJ'ing/production/sound engineer background.

Am I happy with the setup? no I'm not due to the LPF... Too many frequencies are getting to the Transducer. I have since ordered a different LPF, again I'm going cheap, but it should actually work. I'm going to dig out an old Alesis EQ and have a play to find the best frequencies for GT Sport. If I had a bit more to spend on this I would probably use 2x Reckhorns and a Behringer iNuke DSP amp.

9 pages of thread and I still feel confused about what should I buy for my PS4 & Simetik K2 rig. For audio I use HK3490 Stereo Receiver (not sure if it's important here). I'm looking for rather easy to install solution and this rig is rather stable one. I was decided for BKG2 but there are a lot of negative opinions about it (because overheating problems). Behringer products usually gets also mixed reviews. Not sure what I should do then...
Behringer is the cheap end of the market, generally have a lot of features but sound quality takes a hit. My theory is you are using it for powering a transducer, not for actual sounds. I very much doubt you would be able to tell the difference from a Behringer and Peavey if you are powering a transducer. The DSP alone on the iNuke series would probably make it sound a lot better than an amp without any EQ features.
 
Behringer is the cheap end of the market, generally have a lot of features but sound quality takes a hit. My theory is you are using it for powering a transducer, not for actual sounds. I very much doubt you would be able to tell the difference from a Behringer and Peavey if you are powering a transducer. The DSP alone on the iNuke series would probably make it sound a lot better than an amp without any EQ features.

Well - I'm talking above about failures frequency and warranty, not about musical quality. :)
 
Is it possible to use tactile and wireless headset on PS4 pro? Mostly I play with headset and when I turn it on, audio via HDMI is muting. How about optical and wireless headset at the same time? or maybe there is another way to connect tactile?
 
After reading whole thread again and again I'm thinking about iNUKE 1000 DSP & Buttkicker. I'm on a fence between Buttkicker LFE and Buttkicker Mini LFE for it. Wondering if LFE Mini will give me enough power as just one transcducer for a start. Or maybe with this Amp (I don't buy more expensive one) I should buy Buttkicker Advance?

It's possible for example to run iNUKE 1000 DSP, Buttkicker Advance (for my sim racing seat) and one Buttkicker Mini (for pedals) later?

So many questions, so small budget ;)
 
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I will go with x1 3000 DSP becaue I just found used one for $220 (still on warranty). It’s not a bad price IMO here where I live because new one goes for $370.

So now i just need cables and Buttkicker. Probably I will choose this biggest sucker around (LFE) and place it under my seat. Hope this amp will have enough power later for one more (Mini model) on pedals set.

Mr Latte - are you there?
 
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That sucks. I will have no idea how to connect my whole system to (tv, ps4, audio stereo receiver amp - HK3490, my audio monitors ) those new toys which will arrive soon (inuke, buttkicker lfe).

I want to use buttkicker for both - movies on my tv and PS4 games. And something tells me that connecting one amp (HK3940) with second one (iNuke) isn’t a best idea?

Could someone give me some ideas? I know Mr Latte’s guide for cables but I didn’t found info about that there.
 
Your stereo receiver luckily has subwoofer out. Its a pre out so no problem connecting your inuke and/or active subwoofer with a Y splitter cable.
I do suppose you will be
using ps4 for games. So audio based tactile.
 
So two cables from stereo receiver on sub out, even if it’s just mono signal and one transducer, right?
525x525px-LL-d1d86551_vbattach125637.jpeg
 
You will duplicate with the splitter cable the mono signal from the HK 's sub out to both your inuke and subwoofer. If you are using one shaker you are using one channel. If you plan on adding another shaker you will have to add another splitter to duplicate again your inuke input so that you power both channels.
 
Ok, so here is my plan:
1x Inuke 3000 DSP
1x Buttkicker LFE
1x RCA (M) -> XLR (M) 3m cable (for connection from HK3490 receiver to the iNuke)
1x Speakon (M) -> cutted 5m cable (2x2,50mm) (for connection between iNuke and Buttkicker LFE)
x6 m8 rubber isolators for my simetik rig

Any comments or suggestions? Should it work?

NTZMNrs.jpg


fRhGwlI.jpg


OvsIGxQ.jpg
 
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I have connected everything and it's not working. For me it looks like iNuke get some input (because bars are moving) but later nothing happened. How can I check if everything is configured right in iNUKE? I tried many different options and switching cables in both my receiver and iNuke (input/output).

EDIT: I have contacted with Buttkicker technical support. They suggested me to buy pre-amp like Art Cleanbox Pro signal converter and connect it between my receiver and iNUKE to make signal stronger.
 

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I have connected everything and it's not working. For me it looks like iNuke get some input (because bars are moving) but later nothing happened. How can I check if everything is configured right in iNUKE? I tried many different options and switching cables in both my receiver and iNuke (input/output).

EDIT: I have contacted with Buttkicker technical support. They suggested me to buy pre-amp like Art Cleanbox Pro signal converter and connect it between my receiver and iNUKE to make signal stronger.

Hi,

I noticed you said you have plugged the sub out from your amp into the XLR input on the iNuke.. A couple of points

You have plugged an unbalanced output into the balanced input of the iNuke. You really should use an RCA (Amp Sub Out) > 1/4" jack input on the iNuke as this is an unbalanced input. If you try connecting an unbalanced signal to a balanced input, it can produce poor sound quality and can be a lot quieter. I also know of some systems where this makes no difference at all.

Have you made sure you are using the correct channel? Ie. Left input on the amp & Speaker/Transducer is plugged into the Left Speaker Output.


So your hardware should be connected like this
Amplifier Sub Out (Bottom Sub Out on your HK3490)> RCA (M) / 1/4" Jack (M) > iNuke Left Input
iNuke Left Output > Speakon (M) / Wires > ButtKicker LFE

I have no idea how to setup your iNuke, hopefuly someone will be able to help you on that.
 
So your hardware should be connected like this
Amplifier Sub Out (Bottom Sub Out on your HK3490)> RCA (M) / 1/4" Jack (M) > iNuke Left Input
iNuke Left Output > Speakon (M) / Wires > ButtKicker LFE

I tried a different configurations.

Do you think this Art Cleanbox Pro is unnecessary? Some ppl on forums suggest also it's better to try use x2 RCA on sub out instead of just 1. I feel lost and keep buying more cables and gear ;/
 
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