The Must Have Upgrade for any Logitech G Wheel Owner

[Lerroyy]

To sum it up from my side (since I started the rumbling here):

- It seems this mod is made with G25 and G27 in mind. They never actually tested it on the G29.

- The G29 works differently to the G25/27. The included rubber insert is actually there for a reason. In addition to increasing the firmness of the pedal and trying to emulate real feeling brakes, it also regulates the amount of pedal travel. The maximum possible amount of compression/shortening coincides exactly to the 100% brake (or the max rotation of the pot). Anything beyond that point is useless/wasted.

- My pots were exactly aligned and similar and perfect and untouched. I never touched those! All I did was opening the cylinder as instructed and changed the springs.

- I'm really disappointed and I wish I knew this before ordering this mod. I tried to stimulate some answers and made some research but no one ever mentioned this.

- I even asked if this mod should be used in conjunction with the built-in rubber insert, and responses varied; but I'm now shocked how some claimed to be using it without the rubber and never noticed or mentioned the deadzone in the brake! i.e. the last 12mm of travel are all 100% brake pressure.

- I bought this mod to eliminate the huge pressure needed on the pedal to reach 100% brake! Well technically this mod eliminated this problem but created another one. I'm not sure what to do now; whether i should revert to initially built-in brake system or keep this one and get used to it!

No exactly true. Removing the rubber insert goes give you more pedal travel. However you are correct in saying that it will register 100% travel even though there is a little more travel left in the pedal. However my issue is completely solved after gettting a leobodar G25 pedal adapter. This adapter has honestly transformed this wheel to something amazing.

 

[Outspacer]

No exactly true. Removing the rubber insert goes give you more pedal travel. However you are correct in saying that it will register 100% travel even though there is a little more travel left in the pedal. However my issue is completely solved after gettting a leobodar G25 pedal adapter. This adapter has honestly transformed this wheel to something amazing.

I wouldn't call 25% or more just a "little more travel left"! Of course, bypassing the wheel is a solution... but not on PS4.

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Meanwhile, the cheaper fix, that actually works on PS4, is to add a resistor. Since tolerances are quite wide, I've made it with a 5kohm trim pot. Connections are to the wiper (middle) and one end. Spade connectors are 2.8mm x 0.3mm tab and matching receptacle.

Narrow gap to poke a long screwdriver through to adjust it. Or that was the plan - it's easier to adjust from the opposite side of the pedal, while peering down this side. If I was to do it again I might fit the trim pot closer to the centre of the pedal. It's just stuck in place with a double-sided sticky pad.

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The other way, with a fixed value, is much neater. 3.3 kohm might leave some deadzone on some pedal sets, but shouldn't leave you unable to reach full braking. With my first set of pedals it was pretty much perfect. My second set needs more like 4.3 kohm. When picking a resistor err towards a smaller value (increased deadzone) to make sure full braking is still possible. Two resistors could be used in series to get closer to the perfect value.

 

[Georgeagea]

@Outspacer your knowledge, effort and skill are much appreciated man!
Yet I'm not in the similar shoes so I'll have to accept and adapt with what i have

 

[Sjonnie1989]

I am really interested in buying the GTEYE spring for my G920 (basically the same as a G29), but the issue @Georgeagea is experiencing worries me.

As my wheel is currently at a friend (I was on holiday for 3 weeks, can't wait to get it back ), I cannot test this myself, but have you tried adjusting the pedal sensitivity on your PC using the Logitech Gaming Software tool, as described in their FAQ;
http://support.logitech.com/en_us/p...0-racing-wheels-with-Logitech-Gaming-Software

It seems to me that this might fix the issue with the pedal travel, but it might as well not...

 

[Georgeagea]

I am really interested in buying the GTEYE spring for my G920 (basically the same as a G29), but the issue @Georgeagea is experiencing worries me.

As my wheel is currently at a friend (I was on holiday for 3 weeks, can't wait to get it back ), I cannot test this myself, but have you tried adjusting the pedal sensitivity on your PC using the Logitech Gaming Software tool, as described in their FAQ;
http://support.logitech.com/en_us/p...0-racing-wheels-with-Logitech-Gaming-Software

It seems to me that this might fix the issue with the pedal travel, but it might as well not...

I think if you are on PC, there is a software that can modify/modulate every aspect of the wheels including on pedals.
On PS4/XBOX, it's completely different and it's not that big issue, to be honest! Just a minor complaint!
I got used to it and soon your muscle memory will be accustomed to it!

But to be honest, if and I say IF you are getting used to your wheel, and if you are able to reach 100% brake (which is hard pressing to the max), then this MOD is not gonna be useful to you! Actually, it might feel as a downgrade!
For me, it was an upgrade, because I had to really press hard on the brake pedal to reach 100% and it was annoying to me; so i'm now enjoying the less stiff pedal (that is of course after i removed the built-in default rubber insert, and only relying on the GTEYE spring).

So if you're OK with your pedals, there's nothing to see here! This MOD is made and suited for G25/27 where those didn't have any rubber insert and the pedal spring was pretty linear and stupid. With G29/G920, they really improved the feeling and it feels quasi-realistic now!

 

[Sjonnie1989]

I think if you are on PC, there is a software that can modify/modulate every aspect of the wheels including on pedals.
On PS4/XBOX, it's completely different and it's not that big issue, to be honest! Just a minor complaint!
I got used to it and soon your muscle memory will be accustomed to it!

But to be honest, if and I say IF you are getting used to your wheel, and if you are able to reach 100% brake (which is hard pressing to the max), then this MOD is not gonna be useful to you! Actually, it might feel as a downgrade!
For me, it was an upgrade, because I had to really press hard on the brake pedal to reach 100% and it was annoying to me; so i'm now enjoying the less stiff pedal (that is of course after i removed the built-in default rubber insert, and only relying on the GTEYE spring).

So if you're OK with your pedals, there's nothing to see here! This MOD is made and suited for G25/27 where those didn't have any rubber insert and the pedal spring was pretty linear and stupid. With G29/G920, they really improved the feeling and it feels quasi-realistic now!

Was kind of assuming that these settings saved to the wheel (since you can also apply firmware updates), rather than just saving to the Logitech software on the PC...

Anyway, although I am able to press the brakes quite firmly, I do experience a lack of feel for the first 50-75% (don't know exactly how far), only to hit a solid wall for the next 10-ish% after which I am not able to push the pedal any further. In the game I am able to get enough stopping power, but hitting 100% is impossible (but also not necessary because the cars stop fast enough anyway).

The reason I would buy the GTEYE spring is to get more feel of the brake, rather than buying it because I am not getting enough stopping power. The rubber now makes me feel as if the first 50-75% isn't even there, only to have a really hard compression (almost a wall) for the last bit. So unless your opinion is that the GTEYE spring is softer and it only is an upgrade because you now have enough stopping power, I am still considering buying it. I am primarily looking for a more progressive feel in which I can really modulate my braking, instead of just pushing that rubber-insert hard (or super-hard).

PS: I will have my wheel back this weekend and will test the thing with the Logitech software.

 

[BigDaddyP]

I really am finding the brake pedal too stiff, I think I may need to wear trainers rather than slippers.

I have reverse mounted the pedals, I wonder if this is the issue. I also swapped the brake pedal to be in the clutch position and clutch in the brake position.

Has anyone suggested drilling holes in the rubber insert to make it more squishy i suppose?

 

[Georgeagea]

I discovered lately a funny/weird thing!

I discovered that my left foot is way stronger than my right foot! That's not so surprising knowing that I drive a manual car in traffic daily for around 3 to 4 hrs!

I'm using the modified GTEYE brake, and i could easily reach 100% brake travel/brake power with my left foot! I found it a bit too loose and easy actually!
Yes I use left foot braking to avoid using the clutch coz I'm already bored and tired of it in real life!

I lately tried to brake with my right foot, the way we do it in real life, and I found the brake pedal very stiff and hard to get to 100% brake travel/brake power!

So yeah, all my previous posts, comments, and findings are based on my left foot braking and probably differs from a lot of you guys!

 

[Georgeagea]

Has anyone suggested drilling holes in the rubber insert to make it more squishy i suppose?

You can but it'll affect the overall travel of the pedal!

In fact, the rubber insert is carefully studied, modeled and chosen to have maximum compression/shortening at just when the brake power/effective travel reaches 100%!

So if you drill holes in it, or decrease its section somehow; it'll make the pedal looser but you'll have a bit of a deadzone/play in the end of the pedal travel! In other words, you'll have like additional 3 or 5mm of travel where the brakes are already at 100%!

EDIT: Talking about G29 here; G27 doesn't have a rubber insert and is completely another story!

 

[Orayani]

Came across this, quite nice. Granted it is PC but it must be a nice feeling on Logitech pedals with the GTEye springs.

 

[haruhi]

I bought the GTEye brake spring for my G29 pedal set and looking for your thoughts on additional mods.

Is it worth replacing the rubber insert with the 3Drap foam insert?

Should I buy the GTEye throttle/clutch springs or swap the old brake to clutch and clutch to throttle?

What does the 3Drap throttle/clutch preload mods do and is this worth purchasing?

 

[Georgeagea]

I bought the GTEye brake spring for my G29 pedal set and looking for your thoughts on additional mods.

Is it worth replacing the rubber insert with the 3Drap foam insert?

Should I buy the GTEye throttle/clutch springs or swap the old brake to clutch and clutch to throttle?

What does the 3Drap throttle/clutch preload mods do and is this worth purchasing?

I have no idea about the 3Drap mods!
Regarding the throttle and clutch mods, i honestly see no reason for them! I tried swapping the original springs clutch to gas and gas to clutch but i found the clutch spring to be too stiff for my taste on the gas pedal! So i can't see any benefit in gteye modded springs except for brakes!

 

[mrk900]

Yeah after some testing and investigating i discovered that it's neither me doing something wrong, nor the pot was touched, nor an issue!
It's the way the g29 was designed! It is designed to be used with the rubber insert, because when the rubber is completely compressed, it's the point where the brake reaches 100%! But that's not the real travel the pedal can go! It can go like an additional 10mm but that's not possible when the rubber insert is there!
I completely removed the spring and opened the cylinder, and tested the pedal empty! The brake registered 100% at around 80% of the travel, leaving like 2cm of buffer!
I measured the buffer and the rubber and did some calculations! It turned out i needed like a stopper of 12mm!
I cut a wooden thin cylinder and put it instead of the rubber inside the pedal! Now when the brake reaches 100%, it'll reach the wood insert (which is incompressible) and stop!
It's not a great solution, as I'm losing lots of travel, but at least there's no more buffer in brake zone!

i used five pence coins. 20p worth.

 

[mrk900]

I used five pence coins.
My rig is now woth 20p more than yesterday.

 

[Franjo]

I bought all 3 springs and took out the G29 rubber stopper. It has completely transformed the pedals for me. Gas feels way better to control, clutch is a bit heavier and the brake is perfect. Also at the same time I added AMStudios fix on youtube to quiet the pedals. Completely 100% happy.

 

[user3392345]

 

[CoolJetta3]

I just ordered this for G29 through their eBay site, bonne chance!

 

[Jeka_djonik]

Hey. But I did this. it is a shock absorber from the rc model. I installed a stronger spring and rubber spacers. Still inside the oil is filled. I feel a longer brake pedal stroke, but I will still think about upgrading.

 

[Nikkolaz]

@Outspacer , has the resistor mod given you any problem in the long run? would you recommend using higher-power resistors (blue ones)?

And thanks for sharing this idea, neat solution.

 

[Outspacer]

@Outspacer , has the resistor mod given you any problem in the long run? would you recommend using higher-power resistors (blue ones)?

And thanks for sharing this idea, neat solution.

I haven't used the mod for a while - I still use the pedals, but with a T300. The only long-term issue I can imagine is if the resistor isn't fixed in securely and moves around - very unlikely if built using connectors like I did though. Even then, it's built on the ground side - so nothing bad will happen if it shorts out to the metalwork by accident

Low power resistor is fine (of course a higher power one would work fine as well!).

I would recommend either using a 10k variable resistor or being prepared to try a few values out to see which works best, because there's quite a large variance in the pedal pots: one of 3k3 or 3k9 should be about right for most, but it might need 4k7 (or maybe even 2k7). In theory it should be 3k3 - that will give an improvement but may still leave some deadzone, possibly still an annoying amount.

 

[Nikkolaz]

I haven't used the mod for a while - I still use the pedals, but with a T300. The only long-term issue I can imagine is if the resistor isn't fixed in securely and moves around - very unlikely if built using connectors like I did though. Even then, it's built on the ground side - so nothing bad will happen if it shorts out to the metalwork by accident

Low power resistor is fine (of course a higher power one would work fine as well!).

I would recommend either using a 10k variable resistor or being prepared to try a few values out to see which works best, because there's quite a large variance in the pedal pots: one of 3k3 or 3k9 should be about right for most, but it might need 4k7 (or maybe even 2k7). In theory it should be 3k3 - that will give an improvement but may still leave some deadzone, possibly still an annoying amount.

Ended up using a 4k7 one, which my multimeter read as 4.55K. DXTweak2 shows around 97% of useable pedal, which is fine for me. Maybe an exact 4k7 resistor would have been perfect, or a little higher.

After all, your idea of using an adjustable resistor is the fastest way to go. I did it by trial and error, and 3k3 was definitely too low.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Outspacer]

Ended up using a 4k7 one, which my multimeter read as 4.55K. DXTweak2 shows around 97% of useable pedal, which is fine for me. Maybe an exact 4k7 resistor would have been perfect, or a little higher.

After all, your idea of using an adjustable resistor is the fastest way to go. I did it by trial and error, and 3k3 was definitely too low.

Thanks for your help!

You're welcome, cool you got it working! I think still having a little deadzone is safest, in case the resistances vary a bit with temperature, so 97% is really just about perfect

 

[R_Pierce]

Im really thinking this might be a good solution for a more budget friendly pedal setup.

 

[Georgeagea]

Im really thinking this might be a good solution for a more budget friendly pedal setup.

It is. I have it and use it.
Yet I have a hybrid system, meaning I didn't remove completely the rubber piece from inside the brake pedal. I simply cut a bit from it to make it a bit softer (reach 100% brake easier) and then replaced stock spring by the GTEYE one.
It's great!

 

[R_Pierce]

Is there any current discount codes?

 

[GTEYE]

Head over to the official GTEYE Facebook page. Keeping you up to date on new products, news and information about the brand.

 

[Mr Sausage]

Hi,

Not sure of GTEye are stillmonitoring this thread, but I just a question regarding the GTEye springs. I installed all three of them into my (old) set of G25 pedals. They have been functioning fine in terms of spring performance and have exactly the feel I like, however I have noticed an issue with the brake pedal - possibly exacerbated by that particular spring being by far the highest tension and having a progressive specification unlike the accelerator and clutch spring.

Please note if you have read my other thread about a squeaking noise this is unrelated to this issue here - that was the accelerator pedal and wasn't related to the installation of the new springs.

So what I have been noticing is a sort of "stiction" sensation for want of a better word when the brake pedal is being minutely modulated under heavy braking only. This does not happen under a very light "tap" on the brakes just to brush off speed and when trail braking - it is only under hard braking that I would be doing at the end of a straight, for example when I am really getting into the pedal. So this would typically occur when I am well into the highest level of progressive tension in the GTEye spring and maybe about 70% to 85% brake pedal travel (haven't actually measured but that is typically what I might use at the threshold of brake lockup in the dry in my Race 07 Group A M3 depending on the track).

Anyway I suspected it was a lubrication issue within the spring / red piston / red cylinder bore assemblies. As the pedals are already around 6 years old I imagine they do not have the same degree of lubrication they had when new (I took care not to take off what was still there when installing the springs but the fact that my accelerator was squeaking is probably an indication of old lubrication drying up or being lost over time).

So today I pulled the pedals completely apart right down to the very last nut and bolt, cleaned everything thoroughly then did an experiment with the brake only. I "polished" the red piston and the red cylinder bore of the two mating housings that hold the GTEye spring into place as over the years there was some light scoring accumulating on them (this wasn't unique to the brake - all three assemblies show this wear). I then lubricated the bore and piston using my very expensive Krytox GPL205 grease. I hate using this stuff only because it costs a fortune - like $100 AUD delivered here in Australia. But after doing that and just testing the brake pedal action, this "stiction" issue seems to have 95% - 100% gone away. Enough for me to no longer worry about it as I am not going to notice a 5% imperfection in brake smoothness when I am concentrating on the racing rather than obsessing with the brake pedal out of the car so to speak. I honestly don't think any set of pedals this side of $1,000 is going to feel absolutely perfectly smooth so I'm not quibbling.

But has anyone else ever noticed this? As I say it seems to be an issue that is directly related to the degree of tension in the spring. Now that I had become aware of it, the throttle pedal has never had it at all and the clutch only has it slightly (and this is with the GTEye springs). So it was really only the brake that worries me especially when tiny modulations under heavy braking are essential to good lap times and overtakes under brakes.

I guess I am just worried because I was very surprised to see the scoring on the pistons and the cylinder bore int he first place...but then again I wasn't so surprised when I polished them because the red plastic is incredibly soft - it took no effort at all to polish it smooth again using 600 grit to 8000 grit progressive wet and dry - it just took time. But it probably means they will continue to wear over time even when generously lubricated.

As for the lubricant, I would rather reserve the Krytox if I could as it is so darned expensive. I can get Tamiya Cera Grease for a tenth of the price but now I am worried about this cylinder and bore wear and whether the Tamiya grease would continue to maintain the smooth feel I appear to now have.

 

[GTEYE]

Difficult to comment on your exact situation without seeing it, but have you considered that the plastic may have been scored by dirt on the friction surface? Previously I have found good results using a silicone grease with PTFE additive, it is inexpensive and commonly used on polyurethane suspension bushes where high frictional loads are present. Whatever the cause, it seems not to be a common issue as I've never before had it reported to the extent that you have experienced.

 

[Mr Sausage]

Thanks for the reply. I don't really think it was dirt since the pistons were surprisingly clean inside. I also don't want to exaggerate this scoring effect - it could be removed instantly with literally a handful of light rubs with 600 grit paper. Using progressively finer grits over and above that all the way to 8000 was simply to restore the smooth shiny original finish. That means these score marks - even at their worst - were about 3/100th's of a millimetre deep.

I think the scoring is actually caused by the mere fact that the standard mechanism of the G25 - G29 pedals is not exactly Rolls Royce quality. It is built down to a (very low) price. There is as much plastic as there is metal and if you watch the pedal movements carefully - especially when using stronger springs - there is always some very slight "movement" in those teflon bearings - simply because they are teflon and not hard metal. I think that in turn means the piston movements inside the cylinders are not always 100% precise. And that combined with use and soft plastic produces the wear. As I say I notice this same wear even on the clutch and I've hardly ever used the clutch - ever.

Hopefully just using enough of the right lubricant will resolve the issue longer term. Since the Krytox did seem to work so well I might reserve the use of that only for the brake pedal and just use the less expensive greases for the throttle (where it is silky smooth despite the scoring wear).

 

[Mr Sausage]

Just an update following the service procedures I performed on my G25 pedals as per my posts above. I am really happy with the results after a month of hard use since servicing them. I see no reason they won't keep going like this till it is time to pull them apart again for cleaning. The pedal action is now more realistic and smoother than it has ever been. It feels very close to my road car now, even though the two naturally have completely different mechanisms. The braking now is flawlessly smooth (even when putting a lot of pressure on the pedal and it is getting near the end of its travel), so I think I can now suggest that this "hone and polish" technique works extremely well for the brake pedal as does using the Krytox grease. I did also try using other greases however the Krytox is noticeably superior. But it is only necessary on the brake. For the accelerator and clutch, using the Krytox almost makes them too smooth compared to how these pedals feel in real cars. So for the two outer pedals I just used Tamiya Cera-Grease.

The only thing you really need to be careful about is when you use the 600 grit to start off with, you only take of the minimum amount of plastic required to make any score marks disappear. In my case, as mentioned these marks would only have been around 3/100th of a millimetre deep at most, but it was still enough to reduce the smoothness of the pedal action. Obviously you eventually reach a point where the piston fit inside the cylinder isn't going to be the same as it was when new, but I believe all these pedals wear down over time regardless. Even a brand new spare set of pedals I have (and I know they are brand new), had very slight scoring - probably due to nothing more than them being assembled and tested at the factory.

As with any "mod" suggestions (not that this is a "mod" - it is more a servicing technique), you do this at your own risk, though I have seen no ill effects and I think the worse that could happen is they just end up like they did before I serviced them. But I think the use of the expensive Krytox grease might slow down the wear rate compared to the original factory grease.