- 919
HAH, not a bad idea! What is it?
HAH, not a bad idea! What is it?
If you're footing the insurance bill, and you're just getting your license, you DEFINITELY want the V6.
Otherwise, nothing wrong with a 5.0, as long as you like changing seals![]()
I don't have any firsthand experience with them, but from what I understand the 5.0 runs REALLY hot, even when it's in proper working order, so it likes to go through seals at a pretty quick rate. If you find one that's been well-kept though, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Be careful though, the shiniest lowest-mileage example you find isn't always the best deal. WHO you're buying from and how they drove the car is a lot more important where something as high-strung as a 5.0 is in question.
Just checked with my roommate, his dad's worked on several 5.0's. Apparently, since they like to run so hot, they eat up valve cover gaskets. He says if you find one you like, take it into the city for at least a good half hour of warm-temp starts and stops from stoplights. If you hear any lifters chattering, spot anything wrong with the radiator, or see any oil anywhere in the bay or smell anything remotely suspicious, walk away.
The best part of the Nordscheife might be the one beginning just after the Mutkurve T6 until the Pflanzgarten II T9. Only my opinion of course but it has most of the trickiest corners of the track squeezed in one succession.
And which judges are going to drive half the trach full pelt, remember where T6 starts and T9 ends, and then do the maths afterwards, very time consuming the lot of it. And take it from me that Trial Mountain greatly favours the car with the most torque, even a similar power to weight ratio and handling the car with more torque can still win by a fair few seconds.
The Fox 'stang was sold from the factory as a four-pot turbo as well, for a while. I don't know if it's the same turbo 2.3 RJ's referring to... but something about a four cylinder Mustang is just so... un-stang-ly![]()
Same basic motor, yes, but the SVO 'Stangs are hard to find.
Funny, my old neighbor has one in his garage that he was looking to get rid of. Its in pretty bad shape although he does have most of the replacement parts to get it on the road again.
I wonder if he still has it?
hey hey hey, conversation's getting off-topic again..,
Personally, I've never heard of a car will a full racing rollcage, that still has its interior intact. So if no weight reduction is allowed, neither should the rollcage.
I think autumn ring mini would be perfect for the FF group and Deep Forest raceway would be good for the others. Also in phase 1, are there any tire restrictions? Because i think it should be limited to just S or N tires.
One question, what do you mean by WPR limit of 3.0?
Personally, I've never heard of a car will a full racing rollcage, that still has its interior intact. So if no weight reduction is allowed, neither should the rollcage.
Now you have. It doesn't need to be a complete 'cage to stiffen the car, but what is considered a 'full' 10-point 'cage by NHRA can be installed without doing more than a little cutting here and there. Maybe some hacking of the interior door panels.
It's just that most cars aren't street-legal or street-driven by the time they need a 'cage, so the interior is usually stripped out at time of 'cage installation or it already was.
Now then, a 'cage for sustained 200+ mph running, that will keep you reasonably safe... That's a different story.
uh, please read the quote below:
if you want to talk about your muscles, take it to PM..,
now, to get it back on track, here is a simplified look on CLS' and setsunakute's proposals on the next tuner challenge:(*Note: this is not mine, this is just a more "understandable" version of the said proposals.)
Phase 1:
- budget limit of 60,000 Cr
- WPR limit of 3.0
- price of car is included in budget
- prices of used cars should be LOWEST available (if using a 10km car, please specify the price)
- FREE Rigidity Refresher and Semi-Racing Suspension (optional)
- any other upgrade counts (that includes the other Suspension Kits, Tires, anything from the GT Auto Shop, including the Car Wash)
- no trade-in value for the 2 specified upgrades
Categories:
#1 - 1800cc and below
#2 - 1801cc - 2499cc
#3 - 2500cc and above
#4 - FWDs only
(those who enter in Category 4 can also enter the 3 other categories, if the tuner wishes so.)
Phase 2:
- N-Tires ONLY
- Production cars only (no tuners, racing or concept cars allowed)
- no limit on power and budget, as the tires already have their own limits
-downforce limited to 8 for both front and rear
-NO weight reduction, VCD and Brake Controller
for the tracks, Leonidae suggested these:
-Citta 'di Aria
-Trial Mountain
-Deep Forest Raceway
-Autumn Ring
-Autumn Ring Mini !!
-El Capitan (if i would suggest)
any questions? suggestions?? comments?? even criticisms?? i will help on finalizing the terms and conditions, the reason why i did this is that i want this tuner challenge to begin already, i'm so excited!!![]()
In the same manner as with allowing high downforce, the reasoning behind using N3 Road tires is completely defeated. But even if we allowed your obscene weight reduction (read: near-total bodywork dry carbon replacement worth $100,000), we'd stray away from the event's purpose and realism: the number of touge competitors that would do such a feat is zero.Costa di Amalfi provides very long straights. I say just use Citi di Aria. You could use forward/reverse versions of it and get a very different track both times, or you could use the different sectors and count them as different tracks. Weight Reduction should no way be removed. Even manufacturers shave as much as 200kg (Lamborghini Superleggera anyone) off their standard cars so weight reduction's in. Why would I need a sounds system anyway when I can listen to the magic of V8 power? And I certainly don't want to take passengers the way I will be driving![]()
I going to resist an "I told you so" scenario by giving a final warning that the only non-city race circuit in the game where a touge scenario could take place is Motorland. Nuerburging is as as wide as Fuji Speedway '90s for about 80 per cent of its length, which is enough to fit two or three moving cars, broadside, and its naturally high speed make balancing power against light weight difficult. In theory, it *could* work in the later sections because of the continuous undulations and blind corners, but the wide track breadth negates the challenge of weaving your car through those sections. Additionally, the road surface is quite tame in those sections, so sensitivity in suspension tuning goes out the window. But N3 Road tires are far, far, far different from the S and Racing compound tires that everyone is accustomed to. That means there's no illegally sticky rubber for you to bank your entire tuning effort on to make up for thin tire widths (yes, factory tire widths are the major grip influence for N3 Road tires in GT4 and they are something that cannot be modified in any manner)There a few problems with Citta that I forsee.
While the idea is to remove any favoritism towards bigger more powerful cars, Citta doesn't just equalize things. It's so tight and uneven that it strongly FAVORS smaller cars.
If you use just the downhill sections (and if memory serves, a strict "touge" run includes both an uphill and a downhill phase), it's VERY short.
I've got to agree with Leo as well. Trial, Deep Forest, and Autumn Ring are the best tracks of practical length for a touge battle.
Theoretically though, picking certain sectors of the Nurburgring would be better than anything. The track is of the right width to simulate a mountain pass, and many of the undulations and curve structures remind me a great deal of Blue Ridge Parkway driving (a very mountainous thrilling twisty road running the length of the Appalachian Mountains, for those who don't live in America).
I think this is a great idea. I'm Excited to begin too.
In the same manner as with allowing high downforce, the reasoning behind using N3 Road tires is completely defeated.
Categories:
#1 - 1800cc and below
#2 - 1801cc - 2499cc
#3 - 2500cc and above
#4 - FWDs only
(those who enter in Category 4 can also enter the 3 other categories, if the tuner wishes so.)
I might have posted this earlier, but 3 (or 4) front and 7 rear are, what I find to be, maximum realistic levels of downforce for a road car (using front and rear spoilers)how about limiting the downforce to, say, 5?? for both front and rear?? that way, you could still feel the grip of the tires..,