The next tuner challenge..

  • Thread starter Leonidae
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HAH, not a bad idea! What is it?

At the moment, it's lookin' like its gonna be either a 5.0L fox platform Stang or the '04 40th anniversary V6 Stang.

I've only got a permit at the moment, I meant after sophomore year of high school. I love road trips
 
If you're footing the insurance bill, and you're just getting your license, you DEFINITELY want the V6.

Otherwise, nothing wrong with a 5.0, as long as you like changing seals :sly:
 
If you're footing the insurance bill, and you're just getting your license, you DEFINITELY want the V6.

Otherwise, nothing wrong with a 5.0, as long as you like changing seals :sly:

I'm pretty sure my parents won't be paying insurance for me, so a stick shift V6 is more than enough then. If they're gonna help me out on the insurance at all, hello V8.

What's up with seals on the 5.0?
 
I don't have any firsthand experience with them, but from what I understand the 5.0 runs REALLY hot, even when it's in proper working order, so it likes to go through seals at a pretty quick rate. If you find one that's been well-kept though, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Be careful though, the shiniest lowest-mileage example you find isn't always the best deal. WHO you're buying from and how they drove the car is a lot more important where something as high-strung as a 5.0 is in question.
 
I don't have any firsthand experience with them, but from what I understand the 5.0 runs REALLY hot, even when it's in proper working order, so it likes to go through seals at a pretty quick rate. If you find one that's been well-kept though, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Be careful though, the shiniest lowest-mileage example you find isn't always the best deal. WHO you're buying from and how they drove the car is a lot more important where something as high-strung as a 5.0 is in question.

That's the other issue, those engines beg you to drive them hard! I know one thing for sure though, ain't no way I'm gettin' an auto, so easy to zone out in those.

Proving my point: My mom's ESCAPE is a much more engaging and fun to drive car than my dads MUSTANG under how I drive.

There's just no sport or engaging qualities to an auto for me.

Man do I sound opinionated tonight.

EDIT: The Escape is a stick, the Mustang is an auto
 
If you got an auto with manual select it'd be the same as driving a sequential gear boxed race car. So are those rules you posted CLS going to be the final ones? I might start tuning my Camaro. :D
 
Just checked with my roommate, his dad's worked on several 5.0's. Apparently, since they like to run so hot, they eat up valve cover gaskets. He says if you find one you like, take it into the city for at least a good half hour of warm-temp starts and stops from stoplights. If you hear any lifters chattering, spot anything wrong with the radiator, or see any oil anywhere in the bay or smell anything remotely suspicious, walk away.
 
Just checked with my roommate, his dad's worked on several 5.0's. Apparently, since they like to run so hot, they eat up valve cover gaskets. He says if you find one you like, take it into the city for at least a good half hour of warm-temp starts and stops from stoplights. If you hear any lifters chattering, spot anything wrong with the radiator, or see any oil anywhere in the bay or smell anything remotely suspicious, walk away.

Of course, it all comes down to smell. I don't smell gasoline strongly right after it spills! Damn deviated septom.

Thanks for the advice. I had no clue they liked to run so hot. I'm just so drawn to the 302 though
 
A Mustang of the Fox or Fox-4 (Also known as SN95) platform is most likely going to understeer at the limit in stock trim. The V8 cars have excessive weight up front and the V6s have no rear anti-roll bar.

Of course, you can't go wrong if you can find a wrecked T-Bird Turbo Coupe along with a 79-93 notchback... Turbo 2.3 + T5 + Notchback = car that can fly and will handle better than the V6/V8 cars due to the lower weight up front.
 
The Fox 'stang was sold from the factory as a four-pot turbo as well, for a while. I don't know if it's the same turbo 2.3 RJ's referring to... but something about a four cylinder Mustang is just so... un-stang-ly :sly:
 
The best part of the Nordscheife might be the one beginning just after the Mutkurve T6 until the Pflanzgarten II T9. Only my opinion of course but it has most of the trickiest corners of the track squeezed in one succession.

And which judges are going to drive half the trach full pelt, remember where T6 starts and T9 ends, and then do the maths afterwards, very time consuming the lot of it. And take it from me that Trial Mountain greatly favours the car with the most torque, even a similar power to weight ratio and handling the car with more torque can still win by a fair few seconds.

man, wish i could relate to what you guys are saying..,

hey hey hey, conversation's getting off-topic again..,
 
The Fox 'stang was sold from the factory as a four-pot turbo as well, for a while. I don't know if it's the same turbo 2.3 RJ's referring to... but something about a four cylinder Mustang is just so... un-stang-ly :sly:

It's quite un-stang-ly. But if it's quick in what it was built for, then it works.

Who else would consider a 1970 Barracuda with a 282 C.I. very Barracuda-ee when theres the 426 and 440 C.I. variants.
 
Same basic motor, yes, but the SVO 'Stangs are hard to find.

Funny, my old neighbor has one in his garage that he was looking to get rid of. Its in pretty bad shape although he does have most of the replacement parts to get it on the road again.

I wonder if he still has it?
 
Funny, my old neighbor has one in his garage that he was looking to get rid of. Its in pretty bad shape although he does have most of the replacement parts to get it on the road again.

I wonder if he still has it?

uh, please read the quote below:

hey hey hey, conversation's getting off-topic again..,

if you want to talk about your muscles, take it to PM..,

now, to get it back on track, here is a simplified look on CLS' and setsunakute's proposals on the next tuner challenge:(*Note: this is not mine, this is just a more "understandable" version of the said proposals.)

Phase 1:
- budget limit of 60,000 Cr
- WPR limit of 3.0
- price of car is included in budget
- prices of used cars should be LOWEST available (if using a 10km car, please specify the price)
- FREE Rigidity Refresher and Semi-Racing Suspension (optional)
- any other upgrade counts (that includes the other Suspension Kits, Tires, anything from the GT Auto Shop, including the Car Wash :D)
- no trade-in value for the 2 specified upgrades

Categories:

#1 - 1800cc and below
#2 - 1801cc - 2499cc
#3 - 2500cc and above
#4 - FWDs only

(you can also enter FWDs in the other categories, but Category #4 is strictly for FWDs only.)

Phase 2:
- N-Tires ONLY
- Production cars only (no tuners, racing or concept cars allowed)
- no limit on power and budget, as the tires already have their own limits
- downforce limited to 8 for both front and rear
- NO VCD and Brake Controller
- Weight Reduction Stage 1 only

for the tracks, Leonidae suggested these:

-Citta 'di Aria
-Trial Mountain
-Deep Forest Raceway
-Autumn Ring
-Autumn Ring Mini !! :D
-El Capitan (if i would suggest)

any questions? suggestions?? comments?? even criticisms?? i will help on organizing/finalizing the terms and conditions, and i may edit this post from time to time.., the reason why i did this is that i want this tuner challenge to begin already, i'm so excited!! :D:sly:
 
I think autumn ring mini would be perfect for the FF group and Deep Forest raceway would be good for the others. Also in phase 1, are there any tire restrictions? Because i think it should be limited to just S or N tires.


One question, what do you mean by WPR limit of 3.0?
 
Personally, I've never heard of a car will a full racing rollcage, that still has its interior intact. So if no weight reduction is allowed, neither should the rollcage.
 
Personally, I've never heard of a car will a full racing rollcage, that still has its interior intact. So if no weight reduction is allowed, neither should the rollcage.

Now you have. It doesn't need to be a complete 'cage to stiffen the car, but what is considered a 'full' 10-point 'cage by NHRA can be installed without doing more than a little cutting here and there. Maybe some hacking of the interior door panels.

It's just that most cars aren't street-legal or street-driven by the time they need a 'cage, so the interior is usually stripped out at time of 'cage installation or it already was.

Now then, a 'cage for sustained 200+ mph running, that will keep you reasonably safe... That's a different story.
 
I think autumn ring mini would be perfect for the FF group and Deep Forest raceway would be good for the others. Also in phase 1, are there any tire restrictions? Because i think it should be limited to just S or N tires.

One question, what do you mean by WPR limit of 3.0?

now that you think about it, maybe Phase 1 should be restricted to S Tires and below.., or maybe not.., but still, you ARE welcome to purchase R3-R5 Tires.., :D

WPR?? that's Weight to Power Ratio.., you divide the car's weight by the car's hp.., if you get a number less than 3 (ex. 2.99), your car is not eligible for entry..,

Personally, I've never heard of a car will a full racing rollcage, that still has its interior intact. So if no weight reduction is allowed, neither should the rollcage.

Now you have. It doesn't need to be a complete 'cage to stiffen the car, but what is considered a 'full' 10-point 'cage by NHRA can be installed without doing more than a little cutting here and there. Maybe some hacking of the interior door panels.

It's just that most cars aren't street-legal or street-driven by the time they need a 'cage, so the interior is usually stripped out at time of 'cage installation or it already was.

Now then, a 'cage for sustained 200+ mph running, that will keep you reasonably safe... That's a different story.

okaaay... how about a Weight Reduction Stage 1 only?? that tune is more realistic, they just have the back seats, upholstery, carpeting and other things unnecessary removed from the car..,
 
uh, please read the quote below:



if you want to talk about your muscles, take it to PM..,

now, to get it back on track, here is a simplified look on CLS' and setsunakute's proposals on the next tuner challenge:(*Note: this is not mine, this is just a more "understandable" version of the said proposals.)

Phase 1:
- budget limit of 60,000 Cr
- WPR limit of 3.0
- price of car is included in budget
- prices of used cars should be LOWEST available (if using a 10km car, please specify the price)
- FREE Rigidity Refresher and Semi-Racing Suspension (optional)
- any other upgrade counts (that includes the other Suspension Kits, Tires, anything from the GT Auto Shop, including the Car Wash :D)
- no trade-in value for the 2 specified upgrades

Categories:

#1 - 1800cc and below
#2 - 1801cc - 2499cc
#3 - 2500cc and above
#4 - FWDs only

(those who enter in Category 4 can also enter the 3 other categories, if the tuner wishes so.)

Phase 2:
- N-Tires ONLY
- Production cars only (no tuners, racing or concept cars allowed)
- no limit on power and budget, as the tires already have their own limits
-downforce limited to 8 for both front and rear
-NO weight reduction, VCD and Brake Controller

for the tracks, Leonidae suggested these:

-Citta 'di Aria
-Trial Mountain
-Deep Forest Raceway
-Autumn Ring
-Autumn Ring Mini !! :D
-El Capitan (if i would suggest)

any questions? suggestions?? comments?? even criticisms?? i will help on finalizing the terms and conditions, the reason why i did this is that i want this tuner challenge to begin already, i'm so excited!! :D:sly:

I think this is a great idea. I'm Excited to begin too.
 
Costa di Amalfi provides very long straights. I say just use Citi di Aria. You could use forward/reverse versions of it and get a very different track both times, or you could use the different sectors and count them as different tracks. Weight Reduction should no way be removed. Even manufacturers shave as much as 200kg (Lamborghini Superleggera anyone) off their standard cars so weight reduction's in. Why would I need a sounds system anyway when I can listen to the magic of V8 power? And I certainly don't want to take passengers the way I will be driving :scared:
In the same manner as with allowing high downforce, the reasoning behind using N3 Road tires is completely defeated. But even if we allowed your obscene weight reduction (read: near-total bodywork dry carbon replacement worth $100,000), we'd stray away from the event's purpose and realism: the number of touge competitors that would do such a feat is zero.

Never think of weight reduction as something as simple as running a hot knife through butter. The first stage of weigh reduction for 1500kg (give or take) vehicles in the game will instantaneously make it road-illegal and place it in race car territory. Even Stage 3 weight reduction is stretching reality for first-class race cars...
 
There a few problems with Citta that I forsee.

While the idea is to remove any favoritism towards bigger more powerful cars, Citta doesn't just equalize things. It's so tight and uneven that it strongly FAVORS smaller cars.

If you use just the downhill sections (and if memory serves, a strict "touge" run includes both an uphill and a downhill phase), it's VERY short.

I've got to agree with Leo as well. Trial, Deep Forest, and Autumn Ring are the best tracks of practical length for a touge battle.

Theoretically though, picking certain sectors of the Nurburgring would be better than anything. The track is of the right width to simulate a mountain pass, and many of the undulations and curve structures remind me a great deal of Blue Ridge Parkway driving (a very mountainous thrilling twisty road running the length of the Appalachian Mountains, for those who don't live in America).
I going to resist an "I told you so" scenario by giving a final warning that the only non-city race circuit in the game where a touge scenario could take place is Motorland. Nuerburging is as as wide as Fuji Speedway '90s for about 80 per cent of its length, which is enough to fit two or three moving cars, broadside, and its naturally high speed make balancing power against light weight difficult. In theory, it *could* work in the later sections because of the continuous undulations and blind corners, but the wide track breadth negates the challenge of weaving your car through those sections. Additionally, the road surface is quite tame in those sections, so sensitivity in suspension tuning goes out the window. But N3 Road tires are far, far, far different from the S and Racing compound tires that everyone is accustomed to. That means there's no illegally sticky rubber for you to bank your entire tuning effort on to make up for thin tire widths (yes, factory tire widths are the major grip influence for N3 Road tires in GT4 and they are something that cannot be modified in any manner)

I suggested Citti di Aria because, like a real togue, you don't have kerbs to use for improving your line nor wide open spaces that would discourage risky driving. You need real danger.

In the end, I remain against any competitive 'racing' nature for N3 Road tires, mostly because there's simply no way to simulate a "touge" accurately; an AE86 would get slaughtered at that section of the Nordschleife by an up-boosted Evo, even though the former drove as if it were on wings. The best we can do is evaluate driving feel, like we've done in tuner cups passed.
 
I think this is a great idea. I'm Excited to begin too.

just so you know, these aren't my ideas.., i only made them clearer for anyone to understand.., i, too, am offering some ideas and suggestions, i will edit that post for the final decisions..,

In the same manner as with allowing high downforce, the reasoning behind using N3 Road tires is completely defeated.

how about limiting the downforce to, say, 5?? for both front and rear?? that way, you could still feel the grip of the tires..,
 
Categories:

#1 - 1800cc and below
#2 - 1801cc - 2499cc
#3 - 2500cc and above
#4 - FWDs only

(those who enter in Category 4 can also enter the 3 other categories, if the tuner wishes so.)

Actually, no, that's not quite right.

Tuners are allowed one entry per category, and if someone wants to enter a FWD in categories 1-3, they can, but category 4 is purely FWD.

👍
 
i'm sorry, i might have misunderstood that.., let me just do a few changes on that post..,

(a few minutes later..,)

there, finished!! :D:tup:

anybody else willing to give their own thoughts about this??
 
how about limiting the downforce to, say, 5?? for both front and rear?? that way, you could still feel the grip of the tires..,
I might have posted this earlier, but 3 (or 4) front and 7 rear are, what I find to be, maximum realistic levels of downforce for a road car (using front and rear spoilers)
 
To make it even between the groups in phase 2 why not give the different groups time penalties at the start?
i.e.

FWDs only - no penalty
1800cc and below - 2 second penalty
1801cc - 2499cc - 4 second penalty
2500cc and above - 6 second penalty
 

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