Rotary Junkie
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- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Yep.
Takumi's 86 comes to mind...
Takumi's 86 comes to mind...
I can go either way
I can go either way on wings. I really do want to know, though, where you're getting your numbers, setsunakute - you've stated "6" as a hard ceiling over and over as if it's a fact - I want to know why we should consider it a fact.
I don't mean to suggest he thinks that. If he really has data, or at least a convincing argument to back it up, I'm all for it. Like I said, I can be convinced. Just show me the numbers, Sam![]()
Sounds pretty reasonable, unless someone wants to do a massive Scaff-esque study in which we compare real life laptimes from a known track with and without downforce for a given car... LOL
If you can conceive a method of measuring downforce effects, then be my guest. It was a gut feeling. For example, why does it only take 3 downforce units to plant the rear of a wild MR2? So, what would interpret as a realistic value for road cars? Just because a car *can* achieve something, it should be obvious to you that they wouldn't implement it.I don't mean to suggest he thinks that. If he really has data, or at least a convincing argument to back it up, I'm all for it. Like I said, I can be convinced. Just show me the numbers, Sam![]()
No.Methinks that he finds himself a better tuner than everyone else here, or am I missing something?
There's a major disconnect between rally cars and road cars. Rally cars do use high downforce, which is especially strong at the rear. The very high downforce at the rear prevents the car's nose from dipping when airborne. If you watch rally footage of contemporary cars, the rear will dip once the car leaves the ground.Right, and in-game they're modeled as having 13 units of front and 18 units of rear downforce... If memory serves. Might be a good starting point, yes?
Best-case scenario, you might be able to save 60-80kg by replacing parts with dry carbon or lightweight alternatives. That includes front and rear bumper, decklid, bonnet, racing seats, wing. But there's no way to reduce your car's weight by a consistent amount for every car; there's no control.I think stage 1&2 WR and no wing allowed is a good idea. Weight Reduction stage 1 and 2 are both replacing parts with lighter ones like you can easily do in real life yes? Stage 3 is a full lightened racing monocoque, not so street car like.
The rear spoiler of a BNR34 is fully adjustable; your value of 5 is mostly likely derived from the posterior flap adjusted to the maximum angle of attack. Using an aftermarket wing, double the downforce? yes. Triple? No. You need to understand the reasoning behind Japanese street tuners, first. A new rear wing helps keep the rear stable on mid-speed corners and, to some effect, low-speed sections by reducing the tendency of the rear breaking out. They don't install a new wing *just* to produce tire-crushing grip. 'Why?' Because they don't substitute slightly increased tire widths or suspension adjustments with downforce; it's a quick ticket out of perseverance and satisfaction behind working hard on building a balanced and competitive car. But I digress. I'm not offering a defense for my tuning belief in (relatively) low/medium aerodynamic aids and greater dedication in working with the rest of the car. But if you need evidence, question why a JGTC race car has such a hard time achieving 300km/h. Mechanically, the drive gears, powerplant and light weight are well capable of it in a flash. I don't have a PlayStation right here in front of me to validate their GT4 downforce units, but, scale back the numbers to about half that amount and you'll still feel a markedly heavy resistance to speed. That's something road cars (pro street or otherwise) avoid.The very small wing on the bone-stock R34 makes 5R just by itself. No doubt a real tuner is going to employ a wing that produces significantly more than factory downforce when doubling, or in some cases, tripling the power of the car in question, ESPECIALLY if he's on street-compound tires.
The rear spoiler of a BNR34 is fully adjustable; your value of 5 is mostly likely derived from the posterior flap adjusted to the maximum angle of attack. Using an aftermarket wing, double the downforce? yes. Triple? No. You need to understand the reasoning behind Japanese street tuners, first. A new rear wing helps keep the rear stable on mid-speed corners and, to some effect, low-speed sections by reducing the tendency of the rear breaking out. They don't install a new wing *just* to produce tire-crushing grip. 'Why?' Because they don't substitute slightly increased tire widths or suspension adjustments with downforce; it's a quick ticket out of perseverance and satisfaction behind working hard on building a balanced and competitive car. But I digress. I'm not offering a defense for my tuning belief in (relatively) low/medium aerodynamic aids and greater dedication in working with the rest of the car. But if you need evidence, question why a JGTC race car has such a hard time achieving 300km/h. Mechanically, the drive gears, powerplant and light weight are well capable of it in a flash. I don't have a PlayStation right here in front of me to validate their GT4 downforce units, but, scale back the numbers to about half that amount and you'll still feel a markedly heavy resistance to speed. That's something road cars (pro street or otherwise) avoid.