The Thrustmaster T500RS Thread

  • Thread starter TomN
  • 9,924 comments
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JohnBodin
Ooh . . . sorry about that! Remember, I'm doing notifications via Twitter -- that doesn't auto-mail you . . . you have to check Twitter in order to be "notified" when I post updates. I do try to give *advanced* notification a few days in advance, and I post build progress updates so people will have some idea of WHEN new units will be available . . . but you still have to check Twitter yourself in order to see updates that I tweet.

This might help:

https://support.twitter.com/groups/52-connect/topics/213-following/articles/162981-following-people-on-twitter#
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Thank you. Anticipating the next batch.

I literally missed this batch by less then 24 hours. I seen twitter post at 12:00am on the 22. Replied then. Was free tonight and went to check status. Down to one. Went to site. All gone.

This is why I don't play the lottery. Zero luck. ;)

Got your PM, hoping I can catch next batch.
 
Do you guys unplug the power supply to your wheel every time you are done playing? Im trying to think of the best way to avoid overheating the wheel because there was one time when I came back from work and somehow my PS3 was left on. Either I had accidentally left it on from the night before or someone had come in to play with it when I was away and forgot to turn it off. Does anyone know if the wheel only builds heat while during actual playing or even if its idling in the PS3 XMB home menu? I'm worried the damage may have already been done
 
GTPLam
Do you guys unplug the power supply to your wheel every time you are done playing? Im trying to think of the best way to avoid overheating the wheel because there was one time when I came back from work and somehow my PS3 was left on. Either I had accidentally left it on from the night before or someone had come in to play with it when I was away and forgot to turn it off. Does anyone know if the wheel only builds heat while during actual playing or even if its idling in the PS3 XMB home menu? I'm worried the damage may have already been done
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Personally I don't have the luxury of keeping my wheel set up.

After every session mine gets unplugged and put out of sight.

It's a pretty heft brick tho tho when's its on I guess it draws a fair bit of power but I'm not sure.
 
Well, if the wheel's plugged in, electricity will go through it. If it'll overheat it, I don't know. - I always unplug everything, just to be sure 👍.
 
cheers guy's,
I just bought a t500F1 few weeks ago and i have a doubt / problem
everytime i connected to my PS3 the wheel starts the autocalibration process but ends up slightly to the left 10º, the same happens when i disconnected it.
such thing only happens on PS3 because if i connect the wheel first to a PC the same calibrates and centers well!!! strange....
also i've already tried the described in the manual but it happens the same every time!
the drivers are all updated with the last release.
just one more silly question, my wheel stays with green led and i only see in reviews and gameplay videos the red light colour...
many thks for your help on this,

best regards,
 
Well, what game are you playing on the PlayStation 3? It have happened to me as well, but I don't really think it affects anything. You can try changing to the "slow-calibration mode" (described here) and see if it helps.

The red/green light shows which pedal-mode you're using. F1 (standard) is red, and GT/Rally is green. It is possible to change between the two 👍.
 
GTPLam
Do you guys unplug the power supply to your wheel every time you are done playing? Im trying to think of the best way to avoid overheating the wheel because there was one time when I came back from work and somehow my PS3 was left on. Either I had accidentally left it on from the night before or someone had come in to play with it when I was away and forgot to turn it off. Does anyone know if the wheel only builds heat while during actual playing or even if its idling in the PS3 XMB home menu? I'm worried the damage may have already been done
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I've never unlpugged mine. I've had it for more than two years now. In my opinion the wheel only build heat when in use. When if i'm playing gt5 and upgrading my garage which sometimes takes me a bit of time, the wheel starts to cool down and the fan turns off. So I think no damage was done to your wheel.
 
Hello Guys. i posted a couple of weeks ago that I was having trouble with my pedals. The accelrator was ossilating when fully pressed and the brake was engaging when my foot was completely of the pedal. A lot of you gave me good advise. Thanks. Jhon Bodin suggested I clean my peddal's which I did. I found grease on the black plastic hinge that connects to the accelerator pedal. I cleaned it out and the problem with the accelerator was fixed. I updated the firmware to 2013, the brake problem seemed to go away as well. The wheel worked like a charm for a week and then the brake pedal problem is starting to come back. I'm exiting a corner or in the middle of a straght and the brake engages. I'm going to remove all the screws again and try and clean it out the best I can. The problem seems to start after I've been playing for a while. Also I fully depress the pedal begining each race so it fully calibrates, this seems to work for a couple of minutes and then the problem returns.

I also contacted thrustmaster customer support and asked them to get me a quote on a new potentiometer, they said it was fifty euros. I also heard some one in this thread say that he had to solder the new on on to the pedals, that part makes me a little nervous. My wheel is over 2 years old. It's a V1. Thanks for reading
 
miguelcosta7
cheers guy's,
I just bought a t500F1 few weeks ago and i have a doubt / problem
everytime i connected to my PS3 the wheel starts the autocalibration process but ends up slightly to the left 10º, the same happens when i disconnected it.
such thing only happens on PS3 because if i connect the wheel first to a PC the same calibrates and centers well!!! strange....
Click to expand...
Do you have to hold the wheel off-centre to drive in a straight line? If not, it's nothing to worry about.
 
Dean, Plazaro, thks for the feedback,

currently i am playing only F12012; and I do not have to hold the wheel off-center on the game to drive straight, just works perfectly, it's only that slight left side after calibration;

Dean, do you still have this issue???
thks!
regards,
 
Since I only play GT5 at the moment, no. I think I had this issue with either WRC 2 (or 3) or F1 2011.

Still, you can try the slow calibration, if you like. If you can drive "on-center", as PLazarou mentioned, you don't have to do the above, nor even worry about it :).
 
Dean, thks! yes i can drive it perfectly! i see that WRC and F1 are from codemasters, maybe some bug issue with the SDK!!!
i passed from a DFGT to the T500F1 and this wheel is brutal,
thks! :)
 
Picking this bad boy up today in about 2 hours...
I'm buying the T500 + Dirt 3 + a stand for $360. not too shabby but I hope the T500 lasts me a good couple of years ><
 
Well the only time I ever unplug my wheel is if I'm gone for long periods of time like on a vacation or something. I guess I should unplug it more often now just to be safe but arghhh it's just so tedious! Anyways thanks for the recommendations guys
 
mitchcarino
I also contacted thrustmaster customer support and asked them to get me a quote on a new potentiometer, they said it was fifty euros. I also heard some one in this thread say that he had to solder the new on on to the pedals, that part makes me a little nervous. My wheel is over 2 years old. It's a V1. Thanks for reading
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Fifty dollars for a new pot? Wow!

:(

I hate to say it, but that almost makes it worth upgrading to the BLC-T500 Load Cell mod -- and you can install that without having to take your wheel apart, and with NO soldering involved.
 
Just got the wheel!! It's in great condition and my freakin PS3 is louder than this (in other words, it's dead silent, I hear NOTHING) so that's always a good thing haha. For $350 bucks along with Dirt 3 and a temporary mount until I build my rig, can't beat that I suppose
20130524_211151_zpsfde8e6e0.jpg
 
Hey congrats Ferrari458Italia, looks awesome, did you take out the bar? , you should try it in GT mode (hanging pedals) , I personally liked it better, since the clutch have a little more resistance than the throtle, it gives a better and more natural feeling when accelerating. I recommend you try them
 
Ferrari458Italia
Just got the wheel!!
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Nice to see you got the wheel, I think you will really enjoy it!

Hwangm
Hey congrats Ferrari458Italia, looks awesome, did you take out the bar? , you should try it in GT mode (hanging pedals) , I personally liked it better, since the clutch have a little more resistance than the throtle, it gives a better and more natural feeling when accelerating. I recommend you try them
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Roger that, see this post back a couple of pages with pics of our pedals in GT style.
(Hwangm's rig is the nicer one :drool:)
 
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Hwangm
Hey congrats Ferrari458Italia, looks awesome, did you take out the bar? , you should try it in GT mode (hanging pedals) , I personally liked it better, since the clutch have a little more resistance than the throtle, it gives a better and more natural feeling when accelerating. I recommend you try them
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Nope I didn't take it out, it's just cut out from the picture. But yah I was thinking about doing the hanging pedals but I didn't get a chance to search on youtube how to do it. I'll probably give it a go today or tomorrow.
also, anyone know what Mode button does? and why does the light right next to it change colors from red to green? what does that mean?
 
Ferrari458Italia
Nope I didn't take it out, it's just cut out from the picture. But yah I was thinking about doing the hanging pedals but I didn't get a chance to search on youtube how to do it. I'll probably give it a go today or tomorrow.
also, anyone know what Mode button does? and why does the light right next to it change colors from red to green? what does that mean?
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That's what you press when you flip the pedals so the wheel know's which mode the pedals are in. GT or F1
 
FYI, if you've had (or if you have) problems with the T500RS being non-functional following the latest firmware update, you might try this procedure which was posted this on the iRacing forums (NOTE: I have not tried this but if your wheel is bricked following the firmware update, it's worth trying IMO):
Somehow while trying to apply the firmware update, I
managed to "brick" my wheel. It refuses to accept the firmware update
now, and I'm dead in the water. Thrustmaster has been responsive, and
they seem to think I have hardware problem and are sending me a new
"PCB" - whatever that is. I'm going to have to break out the soldering
gun to install it.
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I had this happen to me too. Please try the following in order...

- Make sure wheel is unplugged from PC.
- Take your UAC settings all the way down (you will have to reboot in order for this to take effect)
- After reboot, plug your wheel in a USB 2.0 slot, not USB 3.0 (3.0 will be blue in color)!
- Right click on Thrustmaster firmware and install with Administrative permissions.

Hope this works for you.
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If you haven't tried the latest firmware upgrade yet, I'd strongly recommend doing the last two steps highlighted in red BEFORE you try the firmware upgrade (e.g., connect to a USB 2.0 port, install firmware with Administrative permissions).

I've been holding off on this update, but I will be purchasing the new F458 wheel so I will eventually need to do this myself. I'll report back if I have any problems, but I'm pretty confident that the procedure above should work. A couple of iRacers have reported that they were able to resurrect their "bricked" T500s that failed after the latest firmware update by following this procedure, so the prognosis looks good.
 
JohnBodin
FYI, if you've had (or if you have) problems with the T500RS being non-functional following the latest firmware update, you might try this procedure which was posted this on the iRacing forums (NOTE: I have not tried this but if your wheel is bricked following the firmware update, it's worth trying IMO):


If you haven't tried the latest firmware upgrade yet, I'd strongly recommend doing the last two steps highlighted in red BEFORE you try the firmware upgrade (e.g., connect to a USB 2.0 port, install firmware with Administrative permissions).

I've been holding off on this update, but I will be purchasing the new F458 wheel so I will eventually need to do this myself. I'll report back if I have any problems, but I'm pretty confident that the procedure above should work. A couple of iRacers have reported that they were able to resurrect their "bricked" T500s that failed after the latest firmware update by following this procedure, so the prognosis looks good.
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If you only play your T500 for the PS3, do you still need to update the firmware of the T500?? or is that something that is only for PC racers?
 
I don't think you need to, if you (like me) only use it on the PlayStation. I've just chosen to update (to the previous version of) the firmware :). For me, it worked like a charm on the standard firmware.
 
Ferrari458Italia
If you only play your T500 for the PS3, do you still need to update the firmware of the T500?? or is that something that is only for PC racers?
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It depends.

Firmware is a flash memory inside the wheel. Has nothing to do with PC or PS3. It has effect on both.

For example there was a firmware update to make the T500 work with the F1 add-on wheel. The latest update is to make it work with the Ferrari GTE wheel add-on. Beside that, there are other improvements implemented from time to time. So a update makes sense.
 
Has anybody got the new 458 wheel rim? how does it stand up to the real stuff?
Could you imagine putting it in your real fun car if you would bolt it down as usual :)
 

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