- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
The Ultimate GT5 Link Collection for Tuning
- Thread starter Basilea
- 55 comments
- 211,441 views
nomis3613
Premium
- 831
Hi Basilea,
Sorry to nitpick, but I've noticed something with the flowcharts.
They're a really great way of visualising things...but...I don't think they apply to GT5 very well. Examples:
- we don't have castor adjustment
- no mention of downforce
- reducing front ride height to reduce understeer is very debatable (don't want to open that can of worms though!)
- it is very hard to tell in GT5 if the rear is bottoming out
- increasing front camber to reduce oversteer is ummm unusual
My suggestion is to perhaps put the flowcharts at the bottom of the post, with a disclaimer that they're for a specific real life car and not always correct for GT5.
Sorry for being a hassle!
Sorry to nitpick, but I've noticed something with the flowcharts.
They're a really great way of visualising things...but...I don't think they apply to GT5 very well. Examples:
- we don't have castor adjustment
- no mention of downforce
- reducing front ride height to reduce understeer is very debatable (don't want to open that can of worms though!)
- it is very hard to tell in GT5 if the rear is bottoming out
- increasing front camber to reduce oversteer is ummm unusual
My suggestion is to perhaps put the flowcharts at the bottom of the post, with a disclaimer that they're for a specific real life car and not always correct for GT5.
Sorry for being a hassle!
dr_slump
Premium
- 7,425
- Switzerland
- the_dr_slump / GTP_dr_slump
- Could it be that it should say "rear" instead of "front" camber?
- Yes, it isn't that easy to see if the rear is bottoming out, but you should know it after a few minutes testing.
- reducing front ride height increases front grip as long as it doesn't bottom out and you lower the rear too.
Just what I think about it......
chuyler1
Premium
- 4,548
- New Hampshire
- chuyler1
The understeer/oversteer chart is a great idea...but there have been numerous discussions and countless testimonials about ride height...which the chart has wrong.
Entry understeer (like just about every FF car and some AWD cars): Raise the front (chart says to lower it). Alternatively, you could lower the rear. It is counter intuitive, but if you are trying to help drivers tune, that's what the chart needs to say. Night after night people ask for suggestions and I simply dictate this and get immediate feedback saying it worked great.
Midcorner oversteer (MR cars and some FR cars): Increase the rear ride height (chart says to lower it). Alternatively you could lower the front. Again it is counter intuitive but it works in the game. Night and day difference.
Entry understeer (like just about every FF car and some AWD cars): Raise the front (chart says to lower it). Alternatively, you could lower the rear. It is counter intuitive, but if you are trying to help drivers tune, that's what the chart needs to say. Night after night people ask for suggestions and I simply dictate this and get immediate feedback saying it worked great.
Midcorner oversteer (MR cars and some FR cars): Increase the rear ride height (chart says to lower it). Alternatively you could lower the front. Again it is counter intuitive but it works in the game. Night and day difference.
Hi, There are some guys whom play forza, who devised/made a very good tuning calculator, it actually does a really good job, don't think they have one yet for FM4.
I wonder if anyone is clever enough in the GT community to do something similar ? whet do you think ?
I wonder if anyone is clever enough in the GT community to do something similar ? whet do you think ?
nomis3613
Premium
- 831
Hi Basilea, I have a suggestion for adding another link. Could you please consider creating a section for drivetrain & clutch and adding this: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4734388#post4734388
- 591
- Ontario
- ask and i will tell :)
- haha you wish!
Hi everyone I just got a Lamborghini murcielago superveloce and I purchased the fully customizable transmission but how do I adjust it correctly to get the most out of it??
dr_slump
Premium
- 7,425
- Switzerland
- the_dr_slump / GTP_dr_slump
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
On the off chance, someone looks at stickies, and see's your thread, without seeing mine, It might prove beneficial to include that link as well. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=198751
- 9
- Dublin
- gitnolan90
Would any1 have a drag tune for top gear test track for GTR-R35 TC?? no fancy stuff for tracks i just wanna build a drag monster, trying for ages now just cant get it, it either lags on takeoff or just something else, any help is much appreciated thanks 
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Would any1 have a drag tune for top gear test track for GTR-R35 TC?? no fancy stuff for tracks i just wanna build a drag monster, trying for ages now just cant get it, it either lags on takeoff or just something else, any help is much appreciated thanks
We have a drag forum that might be able to help you. In the stickies of that forum, is a thread that has a lot of tunes in it. Check in there. If not, then copy a basic tune from another car and apply it. The theory seems to remain constant across all drivetrains, with minor tweaking needed to specialize per car.
Hello. i am new here
I hope somebody can help me.
I search a setup for the Lexus SC430 TOM'S Petronas Super GT 500.
I drive this car online with a steering Wheehl and without any guiding aids
I have so many problems with the heavy understering of this car.
I hope someone can help me for this problem.
Sorry for my bad english
Thanks alot..
I hope somebody can help me.
I search a setup for the Lexus SC430 TOM'S Petronas Super GT 500.
I drive this car online with a steering Wheehl and without any guiding aids
I have so many problems with the heavy understering of this car.
I hope someone can help me for this problem.
Sorry for my bad english
Thanks alot..
- 3,131
- IL, USA
- DigitalBaka
- DigitalBaka587
You two above want to look at this thread:
Hi there, im not sure if this to be considered, but i have put up an Auto Gear Setup program some time in February. Its a very simple program to help those who wanted for a quick gear setup.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=245219
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=245219
- 4,887
- Los Angeles, Cali
- JoeTruckV8
Book Mark Post'
- 12,300
- paracuru
- praiano63
Here is a very good link with some good things that can help for GT5 .
For example , this explanation for the sway bar is very good i think. It's the first time i see something saying that ARB stiffness have a so straight relation with camber. It seems so logical ... Very usefull link for sure.
ARB:
-Sometimes referred to as roll bars or anti-sway bars. As a car turns, the cornering forces cause the chassis to lean, or roll, toward the outside of the corner. The amount of chassis roll needs to be limited in order to keep side‐to‐side tire loading and the camber of the tires in the optimal range. The anti‐roll bars combine with the wheel‐springs to do just that. Anti‐roll bars are transverse springs designed to act only when the car is rolling; they may be fitted to the front or rear axle or both. The primary function of the anti‐roll bar is to adjust the understeer/oversteer balance of the car during cornering, which it accomplishes by fine‐tuning the amount of load that transfers to the outside tires at the front versus the rear. A stiffer anti‐roll bar at one end of the car will increase the load on the outside tire at that end. If both bars are made stiffer, the load transferred will remain the same, but overall chassis roll will be reduced, which may require a camber adjustment. Remember, one of the primary goals is to find a good balance between grip at the front and rear of the car. When adjusting the roll bar settings the higher number represents an INCREASE in roll resistance, in effect making the car stiffer. Some cars only have a front anti‐ roll bar, and on some cars, the rear bar can be disconnected. Some cars have no anti‐roll bars at all, in which case any tuning of roll stiffness must be done with the regular wheel springs. Sway bar settings are mostly driver preference. There is no wrong answer or sweet spot. When you like the cars attitude mid‐corner the sway bar is doing its job. Changing the sway bar diameter gives bigger changes in bar stiffness. For finer adjustment, use the sway bar arms. The advantage of using an ARB to adjust roll stiffness is that it can be changed or adjusted much quicker than a suspension spring, that it effects only the roll resistance rather than the multiple parameters that the spring rate effects, and that using an ARB allows for a generally softer, more compliant suspension for a given roll stiffness than using regular springs alone.
Tuning advice
Just like spring rate, you want to run as soft an ARB as possible while maintaining sufficient control of the car and body roll and the proper handling balance. Softer settings lead to more compliance and more grip on that end of the car. They also tend to be slower responding and easier to drive, but stiffer settings can be more stable and faster responding.
Front:
(1) Stiffer: Will increase overall car stability (reduces roll) and shift the cars balance toward UNDERsteer (push), thus allowing the driver to be more aggressive with the steering. The compromise can be on bumps and/or braking. A stiffer front bar will reduce compliance, so when one tire hits a bump the entire front axle will be affected through a loss of overall grip.
(2) Softer: Allows more roll and will shift the cars balance toward OVERsteer (or less UNDERsteer.) And the front will improve in compliance, which improves performance in brake zones and over bumps.
Rear:
(1) Stiffer: As you add throttle through the corner while the steering wheel is still turned, the rear anti‐roll bar becomes very effective. Stiffening the bar supports the rear and shifts the balance to less UNDERsteer at corner exit. Again, the compromise is in compliance; a possible SNAP or FLAT OVERsteer may result if rear anti‐roll bar is TOO stiff.
(2) Softer: Allows more roll at the back of the car, which will be most evident at corner exit. If the bar is TOO soft, the car will exhibit exit OVERsteer. In this case, compared to a rear bar that is TOO stiff, the exit OVERsteer condition will be more gradual instead of a snap, hence the phrase roll OVERsteer.
Interactions
The roll control effects of an anti-roll bar or sway bar are similar to the effect of changing spring rate (in effect an ARB is just a special kind of torsion spring), thus the roll stiffness of the ARB is often traded back forth between spring rate to determine the optimum compromise. Stiff front anti-roll bars can also lead to increased front inside front tire lockup under braking.
http://iracing.wikidot.com/components:anti-roll-bar-sway-bar
For example , this explanation for the sway bar is very good i think. It's the first time i see something saying that ARB stiffness have a so straight relation with camber. It seems so logical ... Very usefull link for sure.
ARB:
-Sometimes referred to as roll bars or anti-sway bars. As a car turns, the cornering forces cause the chassis to lean, or roll, toward the outside of the corner. The amount of chassis roll needs to be limited in order to keep side‐to‐side tire loading and the camber of the tires in the optimal range. The anti‐roll bars combine with the wheel‐springs to do just that. Anti‐roll bars are transverse springs designed to act only when the car is rolling; they may be fitted to the front or rear axle or both. The primary function of the anti‐roll bar is to adjust the understeer/oversteer balance of the car during cornering, which it accomplishes by fine‐tuning the amount of load that transfers to the outside tires at the front versus the rear. A stiffer anti‐roll bar at one end of the car will increase the load on the outside tire at that end. If both bars are made stiffer, the load transferred will remain the same, but overall chassis roll will be reduced, which may require a camber adjustment. Remember, one of the primary goals is to find a good balance between grip at the front and rear of the car. When adjusting the roll bar settings the higher number represents an INCREASE in roll resistance, in effect making the car stiffer. Some cars only have a front anti‐ roll bar, and on some cars, the rear bar can be disconnected. Some cars have no anti‐roll bars at all, in which case any tuning of roll stiffness must be done with the regular wheel springs. Sway bar settings are mostly driver preference. There is no wrong answer or sweet spot. When you like the cars attitude mid‐corner the sway bar is doing its job. Changing the sway bar diameter gives bigger changes in bar stiffness. For finer adjustment, use the sway bar arms. The advantage of using an ARB to adjust roll stiffness is that it can be changed or adjusted much quicker than a suspension spring, that it effects only the roll resistance rather than the multiple parameters that the spring rate effects, and that using an ARB allows for a generally softer, more compliant suspension for a given roll stiffness than using regular springs alone.
Tuning advice
Just like spring rate, you want to run as soft an ARB as possible while maintaining sufficient control of the car and body roll and the proper handling balance. Softer settings lead to more compliance and more grip on that end of the car. They also tend to be slower responding and easier to drive, but stiffer settings can be more stable and faster responding.
(1) Stiffer: Will increase overall car stability (reduces roll) and shift the cars balance toward UNDERsteer (push), thus allowing the driver to be more aggressive with the steering. The compromise can be on bumps and/or braking. A stiffer front bar will reduce compliance, so when one tire hits a bump the entire front axle will be affected through a loss of overall grip.
(2) Softer: Allows more roll and will shift the cars balance toward OVERsteer (or less UNDERsteer.) And the front will improve in compliance, which improves performance in brake zones and over bumps.
Rear:
(1) Stiffer: As you add throttle through the corner while the steering wheel is still turned, the rear anti‐roll bar becomes very effective. Stiffening the bar supports the rear and shifts the balance to less UNDERsteer at corner exit. Again, the compromise is in compliance; a possible SNAP or FLAT OVERsteer may result if rear anti‐roll bar is TOO stiff.
(2) Softer: Allows more roll at the back of the car, which will be most evident at corner exit. If the bar is TOO soft, the car will exhibit exit OVERsteer. In this case, compared to a rear bar that is TOO stiff, the exit OVERsteer condition will be more gradual instead of a snap, hence the phrase roll OVERsteer.
Interactions
The roll control effects of an anti-roll bar or sway bar are similar to the effect of changing spring rate (in effect an ARB is just a special kind of torsion spring), thus the roll stiffness of the ARB is often traded back forth between spring rate to determine the optimum compromise. Stiff front anti-roll bars can also lead to increased front inside front tire lockup under braking.
http://iracing.wikidot.com/components:anti-roll-bar-sway-bar
Last edited:
- 1,399
- nova iguaçu
- xande1959
good afternoon PRAIAINO63,this interesting understanble,but once,installed the suspension bar,can no langer removed,corret not all cars accept this bar suspension once put in MERCEDES AMG SS 10,and he quit in front of higt -speed circuit maybe my music of suspension was not ,in the accordance wonder,something else would,have som new music related to cars, GOLF RM,,ACURA 91 RM AND NISSAN SILVIA RM GRATEFAUL.
