The Un-Official Fanatec Wheel Discussion

  • Thread starter Thread starter Crispy
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^^^^You get the XL pakcage???........how much did it run ya???? Cant get to the website right now
 
I just ordered mine! Since I live in Los Angeles will I get my wheel quickly since their shop is in California?
They send my stuff from Cerritos, which is somewhere over by you. It will be funny (not for you) but if it takes longer to deliver to you than it does someone across the country......anyway you will love the wheel, nice purchase.
 
Little advice to future CSR purchasers....

The d-pad joystick is extremely brittle. After about 2 1/2 months of use the joystick has lost its "positive click" in the right direction (towards the center of the wheel). This causes the d-pad to engage in the right direction without any user input becoming a hindrance both using the wheel to navigate menus and constantly brining up car data/telemetry (Forza) fuel, tire, pit strategy in the middle of a race (F1 2011). This is due to the d-pad engaging when the wheel is turned to the right causing the joystick to fall into position from gravity without any resistance ("positive click").

I have emailed Fanatec support and I am still awaiting a reply. I expect that they will send me a replacement wheel since the joystick cannot be replaced without removing the wheel from the base (which includes removing the GLUED wiring harness from the in-wheel circuit board) and then removing the circuit board from the wheel.

Until I receive a reply I currently have a peice of electrical tape on the right side of the d-pad joystick to deny any auto-engaging.

That said, I would still buy this wheel again because it truly is a great wheel. However, the d-pad joystick is truly a peice of ****.
 
Little advice to future CSR purchasers....

The d-pad joystick is extremely brittle. After about 2 1/2 months of use the joystick has lost its "positive click" in the right direction (towards the center of the wheel). This causes the d-pad to engage in the right direction without any user input becoming a hindrance both using the wheel to navigate menus and constantly brining up car data/telemetry (Forza) fuel, tire, pit strategy in the middle of a race (F1 2011). This is due to the d-pad engaging when the wheel is turned to the right causing the joystick to fall into position from gravity without any resistance ("positive click").

I have emailed Fanatec support and I am still awaiting a reply. I expect that they will send me a replacement wheel since the joystick cannot be replaced without removing the wheel from the base (which includes removing the GLUED wiring harness from the in-wheel circuit board) and then removing the circuit board from the wheel.

Until I receive a reply I currently have a peice of electrical tape on the right side of the d-pad joystick to deny any auto-engaging.

That said, I would still buy this wheel again because it truly is a great wheel. However, the d-pad joystick is truly a peice of ****.
This is interesting as I feel mine starting to do things untouched. Brand new it seemed ''limp''. Looking forward to your update with Fanatec and what you conclude, thanks vile.
 
Little advice to future CSR purchasers....

The d-pad joystick is extremely brittle. After about 2 1/2 months of use the joystick has lost its "positive click" in the right direction (towards the center of the wheel). This causes the d-pad to engage in the right direction without any user input becoming a hindrance both using the wheel to navigate menus and constantly brining up car data/telemetry (Forza) fuel, tire, pit strategy in the middle of a race (F1 2011). This is due to the d-pad engaging when the wheel is turned to the right causing the joystick to fall into position from gravity without any resistance ("positive click").

I have emailed Fanatec support and I am still awaiting a reply. I expect that they will send me a replacement wheel since the joystick cannot be replaced without removing the wheel from the base (which includes removing the GLUED wiring harness from the in-wheel circuit board) and then removing the circuit board from the wheel.

Until I receive a reply I currently have a peice of electrical tape on the right side of the d-pad joystick to deny any auto-engaging.

That said, I would still buy this wheel again because it truly is a great wheel. However, the d-pad joystick is truly a peice of ****.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to use it as little as possible.
 
I have a broken GT2 and Fanatec has stopped responding to my emails. I shipped it to them and they fixed half the problems and shipped it back (after 5 or 6 weeks).

Save yourself the headache and buy something else.
 
I have a GT2 and it works beautifuly. Had to ship it to service once and it took 2 weeks to get it back. Have been using it extensively for a year now and it is a great device.

Just keep cool with their service dept. and everything will be fine...

Fanatec obviously is not WalMart.
 
Also if you do buy one, when you get to the payment portion, Paypal is NOT required, just ''continue'' until an option for Credit Card is offered. IF YOU DO NOT USE PAYPAL! Otherwise follow instructions as they appear.

Reason I bring this up is because I thought Paypal was the only option and do not have an account with them, so I actually didn't buy one until about 3 weeks after I initially wanted to get it......blah blah I'm rambling now but anyway hope you get a wheel, have fun.

Trying to use something BESIDES Paypal and it doesnt give me any other option to pay...It says there is another option but when I click on edit to edit my payment method...SOOOO...I started a Paypall account and in a couple days I guees it will confirm my checking account and Ill be ordering me one
 
@katpeeler, after you agree to the terms, hit continue, this will bring up an information page and an area to input your CC info/debit card. It is confusing but the option is there for other payment methods.
 
@katpeeler, after you agree to the terms, hit continue, this will bring up an information page and an area to input your CC info/debit card. It is confusing but the option is there for other payment methods.

When I agree to the terms and hit continue it takes me to a paypal website:boggled:

Now when I go to the Fanatec website it shows that I have 3 of the same orders pending
 
Make sure you 'remove' the orders you do not want. Not sure why it brings you to paypal? I just 'mock' ordered and it brought me to a info screen tha allows for CC or debit, billing address etc.

You do not need to hit the 'edit' button by payment method, ignore this page and continue to the next.
 
Cant remove orders in the History or the Account information page....Still cant get to were it asks me my credit card information.....Today it should varify my checking account and Ill guees I'll use paypal even though I dont want to
 
Heard back from Fanatec support. Quite frankly I don't see what all the fuss is about it. It took them a couple days to reply but it was over a weekend. I emailed them the required information and that was that.

Like I predicted they decided to send me a replacement wheel. However, I am not sure if this includes the cables and adapters.

Now that I know, I will hardly be using the d-pad on the new wheel.
 
Just got a shipping notification from UPS and they said my wheel should be here tomorrow! Yay!

Wow that was quick....I couldnt figure out how to pay with debit card on there website so Im having to set up a paypal account...hope this doesnt take long
 
Hey guys I'm new to the Forza forum, an started a while ago in the GT5 forum.
Since I got my CSR-Elite, I started now playing FM4 again, and I can say it's better then ever before.

Just some information I want to share.
I just made a firmware update to 721B and after that the ffb in Forza improved by worlds. So everyone running the stock firmware in Forza I can tell UPGRADE !!!

Only one thing I noticed after the upgrade, the wheel initializes now much faster and is stiff after the initializing.
After the update, if the wheel is not calibrated, it will not stop in the center position.
And last the fan is running on max, but which is ok with me, as I don't like temperature controlled fans anyways.

Just sharing some ideas and looking forward to work with the community ;)
 
Cerritos (their wharehouse location) is 17 miles away from me. About a 30 minute drive.

If it was me I would have drove there:lol:

Went to a Sony store yesterday killing time and they had a Driving Force steering wheel set up with the GT5 and I couldnt resist. This was the first time I ever used any kind of steering wheel. And if the Fanatec is anywhere close to that wheel (which looked kinda cheapy) Im going to be very happy
 
Cerritos (their wharehouse location) is 17 miles away from me. About a 30 minute drive.

Wish you can pick it up yourself, Cerittos is about 20 miles from me. Would take me about 15 mins going down the 60>605s
 
If it was me I would have drove there:lol:

Went to a Sony store yesterday killing time and they had a Driving Force steering wheel set up with the GT5 and I couldnt resist. This was the first time I ever used any kind of steering wheel. And if the Fanatec is anywhere close to that wheel (which looked kinda cheapy) Im going to be very happy
The Fanatec CSR is much better than the DFGT (assuming this is the one at Sony) but the DFGT is still a decent wheel, the pedals are what makes the DFGT crappy IMO.

You will enjoy the Fanatec, especially if you ordered the CSR Elite pedals, I love them and get yourself a pair of thin soled shoes, the cheap water shoes they usually sell at Famous Footwear etc work well. Looking forward to your review as a Sim Racing Wheel new comer.
 
Yeah I rarely use it on the ps3 so you will have to read the manual for that one, LOL.
 
Got my wheel! Just wondering how you set the clutch to the clutch pedal for Forza.

Let me know how you do this...I was wondering what would be the best setup for the clutch would be....Ive seen alot of people using the "automatic" shifter where you just pull on the stick..(cant remember what the actual name is)....anyway...but I would think I would enjoy actualy using the clutch pedal but if its slows my time down I might could get talked out of that
 
Let me know how you do this...I was wondering what would be the best setup for the clutch would be....Ive seen alot of people using the "automatic" shifter where you just pull on the stick..(cant remember what the actual name is)....anyway...but I would think I would enjoy actualy using the clutch pedal but if its slows my time down I might could get talked out of that
You will receive two shifters, one will be the 6 +1 gear shifter and the other is a sequential shifter (up and down shifts).

Using the shifter adds to the realism of the setup but can hinder your speed, depends on you skill level I suppose. You can use either the shifter (either one) and the paddles if during the race the shifter is causing you to be too slow, so basically both are usable at the same time.
 
Ok cool.........Kinda screwed up....Created a Paypall account attatched to my checking account and instead of letting "Fanatec" take the money out I transfered it myself to my "Paypall account" so I have to wait 3-5 business days before its over there so I can order from Fanatec
 
Turbo s and Clubsports. Wasn't too pleased that my first edition RennSport stand came with no clamp for the pedals. Still working on the solution ten months later so hum!!!? Does anybody else have the Rennsport Wheel stand and can recommend the fanatec clamps? I find I use the clubsport offset for two pedal brake and gas more than I use for the clutch so was thinking of having the positions drilled into the thick aluminum base. But was also wondering if the fanatec clamps x2 would be strong enough for the offset position for two pedal operation?
 

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