Isn't this gear supposed to have 320mph top speed? if it is then you may want to reduce the top speed to 310mph or 305mph. You can try to increase final drive or increase top gear. Or you can use my excel file.GT4_RuleFinal Drive Ratio: 2.680
Auto: 25
sucahyoIsn't this gear supposed to have 320mph top speed? if it is then you may want to reduce the top speed to 310mph or 305mph. You can try to increase final drive or increase top gear. Or you can use my excel file.
You also may want to try some part wheelie trick (not all):
- high front low rear
- soft spring rate
- low front downforce high rear downforce
But I can't suggest in what order because I never experiment which part making the car faster or which part making the wheelie easier. I suspect the degree of both is different for each part.
sucahyoYou also may want to try some part wheelie trick (not all):
- high front low rear
- soft spring rate
- low front downforce high rear downforce
On a normal road car, no. With the exception of, say, the odd Nissan R-390, max rear downforce will not wheelie any road car. Not even the Cien or ZZ-II, which both have higher than normal amounts of downforce able to be acheived. On the TVR, yes. There is a particular suspension setting you can apply to the spring rate in relation to the anti-roll bars that you can mess with to cancel it out until around 309 MPH, when it starts to wheelie again, and then you have to start from scratch on the suspension until it stops. Doing so has gotten me to around 312 (not quite but very close) with my Speed 12. Perserverence. And don't write off the turbo so fast. It can get you to 300, albeit barely.GT4_RuleIf I did that, wouldnt the front wheels come off which is a violation of the rules posted by DE?
I'll pm you some sample settings rather close to my current set-up and let you be the final judge, but no, in my experienced-backed opinion hard spring rates are not often the good way to go at all (and are infact all that is holding a few cars away from 300 MPH), as I'm afraid I have to disagree with suchayo on that matter, much as I disagree with DE over the effects of tire compound.GT4_Ruleso Toronado, what youre saying is that maximizing the rear downforce will actually make the car go faster![]()
and whats with the sping ratios? Hard isnt always good?![]()
ToronadoI doubt that would work. The Cerbera Speed 12 has virtually no top end
This is confusing, lowering final drive should make the top speed higher.GT4_RuleI had to reduce the final drive to 2.680 because every time I raised it, it went slower. it goes lower the higher the final drive ratio is.
That's why I said only part of it, as I don't have experience on this, I can only assume. But my goal is to use setting that can help reach top speed as much as possible without making it wheelie. I think I should do more experiment on high speed firstGT4_RuleIf I did that, wouldnt the front wheels come off which is a violation of the rules posted by DE?
Thank for the informationToronadoin my experienced-backed opinion hard spring rates are not often the good way to go at all (and are infact all that is holding a few cars away from 300 MPH)
I see 👍GT4_RuleSIf I raised the ratio, then it would cause me to go slower, because the engine is off its peak so it wouldnt accelerate much anymore.
GT4_RuleIve tried cracking 300mph in a TVR Cerbera Speed Twelve today and I made it, by 0.07mph; I went faster (300.37mph) but my cameras battery died before I was able to take the photo. Ill put up the specs below, so if anyone wants to try it or suggest me a better setting then go ahead. I think this car can go much faster but Im not sure
Is this classified as a race car or road car?
GT4_RuleOh btw for the speed record APEXi_ you have to switch the units to mph in GT4, because we don't know what conversion factor GT4 uses - I got somewhere around 511km/h on my Minolta 88C-V (which equals around 319mph when multiplied with 1.6) but when I switched the units to mph in GT4 the numbers dropped to 317.91mph. So you probably have to take the photo again in mph (thats what I did) in the rankings menu.
Just a we bit....Leonidaesomeone's obsessed with minolta...![]()
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Leonidaesomeone's obsessed with minolta...![]()
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I think I know the cause for that. With the Mazda RX-7 (and no doubt you noticed it with your Mazda), the MPH speedometer is off by about half a MPH, ahead. So, when it converts it from KM/H (which, being a Japanese game, is probably what it runs naturally) to MPH, it messes up by around a kilometer, and screws up the real time speedometer time. Alternatively, (and as GT4-Rule raised for me, possibly the true case), when you convert the time found at the results screen (or the screen we all have been going to take pictures of), from KM/H to MPH through the options screen, it is in fact that screen that is wrong because it converts it to a speed that is not actually correct (let's say it converts 482 to 300 MPH exactly, when it is actually 299.62 MPH [It really isn't, but for the sake of comparison, say it is]). This means that it is quite possible that the results screen is incorrect and the real-time speedometer is right.Dark EliteWelcome to the Club, Apexi. GT4_Rule was dead on with the explanation of the units (Thanks for that 👍 )
DE
Lets hope it's notToronadoThis means that it is quite possible that the results screen is incorrect and the real-time speedometer is right.
At what game time ? I don't see wheel lifting when driving (rear view). I though lifting should only occured when almost reaching topspeed?opendriver19aThat R8 speed does not look good to me, the front wheels come off the ground on the back straight. Try putting more front downforce (I forget what its called) on it