This guy confirms that there is no flex:
You should read the "SimRacingSource" comments below his video. He explains that there is no flex on his side. You can also ask him directly if you have some doubt .
As I mentioned earlier I don't think that movement is coming from the base (that's why I addressed the base flex this time). It looks to be coming from the plastic bushings not fitting quite tightly enough and that could possibly be overcome with shims.Sim Racing Garage you could see the flex in the actual pedal not the base. This is because the pivot point is the weak link. It doesn’t matter how you mount the base, the weak link will still be the pivot point of the pedal which is plastic. Watch his video and you can easily see the flex from multiple points as he does heal/toe.
The part in the picture below would be a sacrificial part because you don't want the shaft or the actual mounting part of the base wearing. I think just shimming it with some plastic washers to take up the sideways movement would do the trick.
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As I mentioned earlier I don't think that movement is coming from the base (that's why I addressed the base flex this time). It looks to be coming from the plastic bushings not fitting quite tightly enough and that could possibly be overcome with shims.
Check this video and it shows very clearly where the movement is coming from, and with pressure this light it would not be the base flexing:
Using my crystal ball I can see aftermarket bushings in the very near future ... or a version 2.I agree that it's not a matter of mounting the base differently as I've seen others (not just here) mention. It's possible shims could solve the issue, we will have to wait and see if this can be fixed. Kinda crazy that Thrustmaster overlooked this though. I get saving costs, but they are entering a market segment where little things like these are heavily criticized.
For 200 dollars, I dont see how that small bit of Flex could be a dealbreaker. The flex is often in the pedalplate.
Any flex at all in the pedals or movement in the wheel base are the enemies of consistency. And at $200 if the option is CSL with a all metal design and no flex, or Thrustmaster with flex, I'll go CSL IMO. Flex in a rig is the enemy.
I disagree there. If the flex is consistent it wont matter to your performance.
You do realise that CSL pedal arms also have flex.It def depends on the person/setup. For guys using a Playseat, the insane amount of Flex in the pedalplate is far greater and def the point to address first. But that brings about another point.......why on earth would you use a load cell with a crappy pedal plate? It completely defeats the purpose of using muscle memory as that flex works against you and is inconsistent.
I have a Playseat (upgrading to Simlab P1-X now) with the terrible pedalplate design. When I first upgraded to a load cell it was laughably bad. The flex destroyed any benefit of the load cell and worked against me. Quick trip to Lowes and I was able to build a box around my pedals making them 100% solid. Then I was able to swap to the strongest elastomers and have a rock solid brake pedal. That's when I found improvements in performance and far greater confidence with trail braking and consistency.
Any flex at all in the pedals or movement in the wheel base are the enemies of consistency. And at $200 if the option is CSL with a all metal design and no flex, or Thrustmaster with flex, I'll go CSL IMO. Flex in a rig is the enemy.
You do realise that CSL pedal arms also have flex.
You do realise that CSL pedal arms also have flex.
Dont forget to mention alien drivers who drive or used to drive consistently with Logitech pedals.
The flex he's describing is very very tiny and only in extreme cases, it's also different than the flex seen in the thrustmaster which you can visually see in his video.
And those same aliens are faster and more consistent on a better rig. Dont forget that either
Flex is the wrong word for what's happening on the TM pedals. I think slop would be a more accurate term and it too is only *seen in extreme cases. Flex is the correct term for the Fanatec pedalsThe flex he's describing is very very tiny and only in extreme cases, it's also different than the flex seen in the thrustmaster which you can visually see in his video.
I understand your point and fully agree that 0 flex is better and metal is better then plastic. But suggesting that that little Flex will ruin your consistency is exaggerating a lot. Humans have the talent to adapt very quickly.
Flex is the wrong word for what's happening on the TM pedals. I think slop would be a more accurate term. Flex is the correct term for the Fanatec pedals
He wasn't just talking about the brake... arms is plural .That might actually be the case. With the Fanatec you might get a little flex at the extreme end of the pedals strength but 99% of the time none. That's something that can't really be seen on video. With the thrustmaster it could be a combo of flex and slop but def a lot of slop. Watching the video I can see it moves around on multiple axis, that part is def the slop.
I edited my post before you could see it I think. With the Fanatec video, I forgot to mention that he was running much stiffer settings and as a result his pedal was significantly stiffer than the Thrustmaster. This will highlight any weaknesses in a system, but even then he said the flex was almost imperceptible. The Thrustmaster uses weaker springs and still has the issue, which makes me wonder how it will hold up to modders adding stronger springs. Maybe adding shims etc will help and allow them to run the stiffer springs without the flex/slop.
That would be great if they do. I'd buy that.......Example is perhaps now the Fanatec elite pedals will in the future start to use hall effect sensors instead of pots while maintaining their current pricing structure.
I couldn’t disagree with this more.
Sure Hall sensors are better, but honestly you wouldn’t really be able to tell the difference. And if I have to choose between a metal base with zero flex under braking vs the T-LCM with plastic/flex. I’ll easily choose the metal frame with potentiometers.
Plus springs for the brake pedal, no thanks. I’ll take the CSL elastomer over springs. Brakes are FAR FAR FAR more critical.
The flex in the T-LCM is a complete deal breaker IMO.
That was exactly my experience.Oh you'll be able to tell the difference after 6 months to year if you regularly do sim racing. The truth is the potentiometers are susceptible to dust, and will eventually wear out.
My experience with potentiometer based pedals is that for 6 or so months they're fine, then one or more of the pedals starts spiking. This can be temporarily cured by spraying electronic contact cleaner into the pots, however this needs to be done more and more regularly until after another 6 months the pots need to be completely stripped, cleaned and reassembled. Then after another 6 months they're basically gone, completely worn out.
ProtoSimTech uses a real industrial grade potentiometers which are much more reliable and durable than those in mass-produced pedals.
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https://www.protosimtech.com/tech-specs