Tuning Garage Links & FITT Physics Discussions

Motor City Hami
Here are my initial impressions on GT6 physics and tuning ...a lot of stuff...:bowdown:
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I haven't tuned a car yet, preferring at this point to drive a bunch of stock cars that are various drivetrains, age and power, on CM to SH tires, to try and get a feel for what PD has programmed into the track/car physics relationships before I have a go and trying to make anything better. Initial impressions so far are that you are on the right track, every car I have driven, about 7 or 8 so far was fun, with no glaring bad habits out of the box. They did what you would expect them to do given their drivetrain, tires, power, age etc. Probably won't get into much tuning until later today or tomorrow..but if anyone posts something up I might give it a go!!! Hint....:rolleyes:

photonrider
@Motor City Hami - Keith - you said:

"Just like in real life, you can step over the line, catch your mistake early and save the corner. Yes they still kept programming in to realize the banzai corner entry that should put you into the weeds. I am very impressed."

I agree with this very much. Losing control of the car over here in Canada, where the roads can turn to black ice overnight, is no strange feeling - recovering the line is almost instinctive. Having played GT6 for just 30 minutes, I already feel more realism in this area. I can only imagine how realistic, with the right kind of rig, the simulation is now.

Also: keep up the good work! You know I've read you for years. ;)
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Props for throwing out the Canadian black ice reference:tup:👍 And don't wait 3 years to update your game this time!!:odd:
 
Anyone started tuning yet? I added race suspension and LSD to a Toyota "Racing" 86gt. Tried alot of different settings and mostly just made the car slower.:confused: I can make the car tighter (less tire squealing in the corners) or looser with softer suspension but nothing so far is much better than stock. A 10/40/10 lsd setting seemed to work well at Apricot (great to have this track back:tup:) It looks like we will be able to run much higher accel. settings on lower hp cars than we could in GT5. I need to try more cars but tuning is a whole new ball game right now for sure.


Edit: Checked the stock tires and found they were SH and not CS like I had thought.:dunce:
The SH tires had so much grip the 200 hp car couldn't break them loose.:lol:
 
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Played with an LSD on my Autozam AZ-1 a bit and felt like what I did helped keep the rear planted a bit better but that might just be me.:lol:

From the little bits of tuning on a couple different cars I've done so far, I'd say it looks like everything is a bit more balanced.

Can't look to just a couple key settings but instead you need to match everything up.
Just my initial impressions though so...:drool:
 
Just tried the Focus ST. There is the familiar push that I know from Gran Turismo. This car needs much tuning help. In real life the car handles like it is on rails. On the bright side, we tuners are still needed.
 
Are you finally going through the career? I've been waiting to see how my times compare to yours since the licenses pit psn friends against one another.
 
I will definitely be watching this thread. I no longer want to make my usual half-assed tunes 30 seconds before I hit the track. I want to kick that habit and start new in GT6.
 
I started to work on my first tune and after i read a suspension tutorial in here and on the internet i felt it made more sense than in gt5. Maybe i am wrong but it seems to work better and i need less extrême settings to feel the différence. Can one of the experts confirm?
 
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Question
Does changing wheel size have an effect on performance and handling or is it merely cosmetic and strictly for looks?

In game I love tuning and driving Kei cars, Micro cars and compacts. Currently having a blast using my 500PP Storia X4 to clear as much of the career stuff as possible.
Now in real life fitting 2inch larger wheels on the car would have a dramatic effect on the cars handling. Haven't done any real testing or serious tuning so can't say if the larger wheels I've got on the car now are doing anything other than look good.:lol:
 
Going along with the post above, can you adjust how wide your wheels are? Can you choose which wheels you want to make wider? For example, make the rear wheels wider than the front.
 
CallmeDan
Going along with the post above, can you adjust how wide your wheels are? Can you choose which wheels you want to make wider? For example, make the rear wheels wider than the front.
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Unfortunately you can't adjust wheel width, at least as far as I've been able to tell. Also can't have different size front and rear wheels or different style wheels front and rear.
All this makes me think the different size wheels are purely cosmetic, but would like to get some real statistical evidence one way or the other.
 
XDesperado67
Unfortunately you can't adjust wheel width, at least as far as I've been able to tell. Also can't have different size front and rear wheels or different style wheels front and rear.
All this makes me think the different size wheels are purely cosmetic, but would like to get some real statistical evidence one way or the other.
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D: That sucks. I hope we can all get some definitive results soon.
 
JTQMopar's Aero/Downforce parts/ adjustment testing:
-SRT Viper Launch (aka Badass) Edition '13:
--Aero Kit - Type A: no front downforce (DF)
--Rear Wing - Custom - DF 5-20
---Changing rear DF setting results in no change in PP

-Aston Martin V12 Vantage '10
--Aero Kit - Type A: no front DF
--Rear Wing - Custom: DF 5-20
--Flat Floors: no DF
---Rear DF settings = no PP diff.
---Flat floors took car from 540PP- 565PP
 
I was going to mention the Flat Floors thing, but I assumed one of the more die-hard tuners would have beat me. It seems like Flat Floors are a minimum of an extra 20PP. However, since I only had them on low end cars (I.E. low-mid 400 PP range in stock trim) I wasn't able to see a difference with or without them on the car.
 
Finally doing some suspension testing tonight. Purchased the Racing Soft, Racing Hard and Fully Customizable suspensions to compare the settings with stock. I found the comparison interesting and quite disappointing. I was really hoping that PD had developed two basic tune suspensions for the non tuner. See comparison below of two cars that I have been playing with.

11300450115_86c9d8a73b_z.jpg


The results are fairly similar for each of these two cars. Ride height was different on the Boss, but I honestly think it is a typo (rear should read 130 not 103. if you look at the car in photo mode and it does not look like this car is slammed in the rear. Anyway, in the chart above, you can see that changing to different suspension options does not change the camber settings. Either camber does not matter within tuning in the game or PD doesn't want these selections to out-perform the fully customizable kit. Also, damper settings all remain at one until, oddly, they change to threes on the full customization kit.

The other things that I noticed is that ride height dropped, but same for each kit. And, spring rates went up with soft, up again with hard, then back to stock with the full kit.

I plan to hit the track tonight and test each of these for lap times, just as the game spit them out. Then I will start to break down each setting.
 
Maybe the suspension settings on soft/ hard are the same for both cars (spring rate) the number just varyied by car weight [over front/ rear springs]
 
I found a pretty cool spring rate calculator. http://www.hraefn.net/projects/spring_rates.php If I use this to translate what I know is on my Spec Miata, I get 12.5 kgf/mm front (700 lb/in Eibach spring) and 6.25 kgf/mm rear (350 lb/in Eibach spring). Kind of funny that this is pretty close to what I ended up with on my GT5 tunes for Miatas. Might be interesting to use these rates for a Spec Miata in GT6 racing series.
 
Has anyone gotten a chance to try a muscle car yet?
It seems they've really exaggerated with the cars understeering a ton then going full 180 when you hit the gas. I've tried lsd, different spring rates front and back, sway bars, everything but nothing fixes it on either the trans am or nova I have. between these and the bug in the mr cars I'm starting to think pd messed something up.
 
Good stuff so far Hami. I've noticed the change with the DS3, but going by comparison of license times alone, doesn't seem to have affected me too much, being a x and square user. Will be interesting to compare my times in FITT events to the various different control users.
 
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biffa3
Good stuff so far Hami. I've noticed the change with the DS3, but going by comparison of license times alone, doesn't seem to have affected me too much, being a x and square user. Will be interesting to compare my times in FITT events to the various different control users.
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Way back, I had a controller that had a really tall square button that was progressive. I think it was a Mad Catz. There is something to this trail braking in the program. There is this last little bit of rotation right at the end of the brake lift and if you time it right, you can really be aggressive in the corners. It's time to either learn to drive with the sticks or L2/R2 or find that Mad Catz version. To me it seems like a big advantage.
 
Having a FWD car with rear springs twice as stiff as the front, full stiff rear bar, maximum toe outin the rear, and a forward rake pushing through a corner, once again, does not equal realism. I've decided Kaz just secretly hates FWD cars. Maybe I should put the stock diff back in and see what happens
 
Greyout
Having a FWD car with rear springs twice as stiff as the front, full stiff rear bar, maximum toe outin the rear, and a forward rake pushing through a corner, once again, does not equal realism. I've decided Kaz just secretly hates FWD cars. Maybe I should put the stock diff back in and see what happens
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When I road raced Honda Civics, we had to do all of that to get them to turn. 450 to 600 lb rear springs vs. 250 to 350 lb fronts. 3/4" rear swaybar vs. 1/2" or 5/8" front. As much toe out as I could get in the rear. 2.5 to 3.0 degrees of camber in the front and almost zero in the rear. Soft front damping and max rear damping. Low front, higher rear. Softer compound of tire in the front than rear. Trail braking deep into the corners and sometimes jerking the wheel on entry to unsettle the car. Yeah, sounds about right.
 
I did some driving/testing/tuning with CyKo this morning. I took my lovely Subi Legacy out on the Nordy with SH @450pp. When I set the spring rates on the full suspension = to the "hard" settings my front outside tyre keps overcooking just after mid corner. When I moved the spring rates down toward the "soft" setting the car didnt place too much weight too quickly on the front
outside tyre and allowed the car to rotate smoother.

I'm loving the new system.
 
I have noticed most of the fully customizable suspension has softer settings than in gt5. Most of the kits I've put on aren't even 1/4 of the way across the slider.
 
Motor City Hami
When I road raced Honda Civics, we had to do all of that to get them to turn. 450 to 600 lb rear springs vs. 250 to 350 lb fronts. 3/4" rear swaybar vs. 1/2" or 5/8" front. As much toe out as I could get in the rear. 2.5 to 3.0 degrees of camber in the front and almost zero in the rear. Soft front damping and max rear damping. Low front, higher rear. Softer compound of tire in the front than rear. Trail braking deep into the corners and sometimes jerking the wheel on entry to unsettle the car. Yeah, sounds about right.
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Have you driven any FF's with gusto yet in GT6 and if so, what do you think?
 
Johnnypenso
Have you driven any FF's with gusto yet in GT6 and if so, what do you think?
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Only the Focus ST. It is clear to me that PD has not driven this car in real life. The car rotates, but has help from the Torque Vectoring System. Obviously not programmed.

In GT6, the Focus ST has that typical Gran Turismo push, but it is much more responsive to steering and throttle inputs. It takes work and timing but it is fun to drive. Not fast, but not as awful as a stock FF in GT5. I have not attempted to tune it yet.
 
Did some testing tonight. Tried to approach things methodically, scientific. I took the MX-5 Miata '89 to Willow Springs Street Course on comfort soft tires. There is a nice little skid pad to the left, just after the free run begins.

Here is what I learned... nothing. Not a damn thing. Super frustrated with improving tuning over the stock settings. With stock settings I could only run around the white line of the skid pad at 41 mph. The outside front turned red and the inside front turned yellow.

Front Camber:
Tested 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 2.5, 2.2
41 mph across the board. Though the speed was identical in each test, at 2.2 it was the easiest to hold the line. In reality there was so little difference in speed.

Rear Camber:
Tested 1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0, 6.0
41 mph across the board. Identical speed result, but the inside rear began to turn yellow at 4.0 and almost turned red at 6.0. Again, very little difference in speed.

Rear toe from 0.20 to 0.00. Absolutely zero difference.

Added LSD from stock 0/0/0 to 8/14/7. Zero difference.

Ride height from 140/140 to slammed 75/75. This is the only setting where I could feel any difference. I went from fluttering between 40/41 mph to flutter between 41/42. Still, not very much improvement in my mind.

Kept her slammed and increased spring rates. Tested both half way across the slider and 3.4 across the slider. Zero difference.

Dampers from 1's up to compression at 6/6 and extension at 5/5. No change.

Then I decided to go crazy. I put settings to full soft front and full hard rear.
RH 75/160
SR 2.89/10.58
Dam Ex 1/10
Dam C 1/10
ARB 1/7
Cam 2.0/0.0
Speed did not increase one bit. Car rotation did not improve. The only difference is that the inside rear wheel could now turn red and the outside rear turned yellow. If I kept going, I could get both rear tires to break loose, but the car still would not rotate.

So tonight's conclusions. Mazda has paid PD enough to program Miata to handle perfectly and never spin out. What a waste of a night of tuning. I think I may need to test at higher speeds. Maybe try this same type of effort on Twin Ring Motegi Super Speedway?
 
I am by no means a professional tuner, but I'm wondering if some cars have wonky suspension in-game and others do not. I tried to tune an Evo VII RS last night that had really similar results to the Miata that you tuned above. With the exception of Differential tuning, nothing helped the car out.

Short Version: Nothing I would adjust would make a difference. However, I could just be bad.

On my FF cars however, I can do basic adjustments and gain worlds of difference. By basic I mean squaring up the spring rates, 1.5 degrees front camber, 1.0 degrees rear camber, and zeroing out the rear toe. Massive changes from that alone.

Not sure if this helps or not, but... that's my two cents.

Edit: The FF cars I've tried this on so far have been the '04 ITR, the '95 ITR, the '01 Fit W, and the '98 CTR.
 

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