What car should I buy?

  • Thread starter Thread starter TruSake
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I am going to have to agree with Troux this time.

I have also personally seen theout come of engines that were designed to run on a higher octane that was pushed on regular fuel. We have alot of Japanese Imports here that was designed to run on japanese 100RON fuel, we get away with running them on 98RON fuels but using regular unleaded is not a good idea if you want to actually use the performance the engine can provide.

Im not saying if you don't run high octane fuel you engine will melt but in some high perfomance applications this can be the case..... over time usually. Some cars may recommend high octane so it can give better milage figures but in some cases it (usually small engines runnning boost or high comp engines) is a engine reliability factor.

And just because you have a ECU with knock sensors doesn't mean its fine to run low quality fuels. retarding ignition is not a good thing but rather a fail safe (which in more extreme cases still doesnt stop damage).

Also this is coming for a guy that has experienced a melted hole in my piston.
 
If we're talking a boosted engine - especially one running 18psi - then all bets on octane are OFF. Frankly, Troux, you're stretching the point in order to make yourself look smarter, and all it does is make you look argumentative.
 
I have also personally seen theout come of engines that were designed to run on a higher octane that was pushed on regular fuel. We have alot of Japanese Imports here that was designed to run on japanese 100RON fuel, we get away with running them on 98RON fuels
And when you say Japanese imports, do you mean like 100 BHP/Liter vehicles? Because you will have to go quite far to find Joe Smith, American, driving one.
VIPERGTSR01
but using regular unleaded is not a good idea if you want to actually use the performance the engine can provide.
Yeah. And that is usually ALL that it will do.
YSSMAN
You would have to be a huge douche not to buy premium just because its "too expensive,"
And if you bought a used car that wants premium?
 
What do you mean "requires"? I know most cars say "premium unleaded only" but it's just because it's better for your engine.

My bad, your right it doesn't require it. I know it can run on the medium stuff ( I don't remember the octane ) but, it's recommeded you use premium and the motor runs best on premium. It loses performance on the medium stuff too.
 
:lol: cheers!
i knew somthing would be around his price range

ultrashot - im "pretty" sure you talk before you think, there are plenty of ls1s getting around over here with up to and over 500,000ks on the clock and there still going strong. what would you call that?

duke - clearly it wasnt useless ^ and come on, ive still got a few points left


Oh crap, my bad dude. I live in America so I don't how much that will equate to in Australia. Sorry if I mislead you. But over here atleast they run between 7k to 10k USD. The newer one's though can get up there, expecially the WS-6's.
 
And when you say Japanese imports, do you mean like 100 BHP/Liter vehicles? Because you will have to go quite far to find Joe Smith, American, driving one.

Well I didn't say Americans, I said 'we' referring to Australians. Yes with the many 100hp/L + cars 'we' (Australia) have getting around our streets it is not wise to go with the cheaper fuel and rely on ignition retard. As I also said ignition retard is not healthy for a engine, if the car recommends (says Premium only) and you like to push the car often and hard it is better to be on the safe side rather than being sorry by not running on the premium fuel unless you know for sure that the fuel is only recommended because the manufacturer wanted a better rated fuel economy or something like that.

If we're talking a boosted engine - especially one running 18psi - then all bets on octane are OFF.

Well yes, I mainly am talking about boosted and factory high tuned engines. (As most cars here that require premium fuel are factory high tuned) So I am probably on a different wave length to most others.
 
As most cars here that require premium fuel are factory high tuned

My car says 'Minimum RON rating 95-96' or Premium unleaded. And produces 44hp/L.....:lol:
 
My car says 'Minimum RON rating 95-96' or Premium unleaded. And produces 44hp/L.....:lol:

Heh, I haven't come across many like that, what do you drive?
 
500,000 km may be but it does not include anything about the original price of the engine which, again, leads to nothing.

maybe? theres no maybe about it

whats the original price got to do with it? :lol:
the guys got 7 grand or so to spend and could get into an ls1 if he wanted to.
whats saying american engines are crap got to do with it when clearly there not ^

jesus
 
A lot of suggestions have been thrown your way.
My two cents:
Go to the local book store.
Find one of those "syposium" type magazines that covers used cars, or one that covers new cars, depending on what you want. Take into account whether you'll be better served by front-wheel drive, rear wheel drive, 4wd, based on what the climate does.
fr. instance you don't want a high torque rear driver if it snows a healthy portion of the year where you are.
Also hit www.intellichoice.com and some of the other web sites.
Price a few cars, read the reviews. Check the safety ratings.
Then buy a car that is inside your budget. And that you can afford to insure, and maintain.
It really doesn't matter what your first car is.
Once you know a little more about what you want, then you can do it up right with your second or third car.
 
Heh, I haven't come across many like that, what do you drive?

1995 SEAT Cordoba.

My dad's older Vectra required it too. That was 2.6L and produced 125kw, so that's still a pretty tame 64hp/L
 
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