- 6
I'm on the forumula GT races..and I need settings cause my b-spec driver sitn doing so hot(for some reason the b-spec driver is a REALLLY good driver on my game..)
Formula GT car settings?
- Thread starter roguearthur
- 134 comments
- 116,606 views
- 39
First fix the toe settings. Originally rear toe is set to sometime like -4. That will cause your rear tires to wear-out too quickly. Set it to sometime like -1, and maybe set front toe to 1. I haven't bothered adjusting any of the other settings, except gears.
Since this car has more than enough power in low gears, I set the low gears (1st thru 4th) as long as possible. (slid all the way to the left.) 5th, 6th, and 7th gears depend on the course. Before I started the series, I did some testing at the Test Course, and got some counter-intuitive results for final gear settings. The final gear is by default set around 4.200, I think. If you move it lower, to the 3.500-3.700 range, this will increase your 1000m acceleration times. (I was expecting the opposite. My theory on this is because you spend less time in between gears.) However, with that setting, you'll quickly lose power in 6th and 7th gear, so it won't work on a track with long straight-aways.
So, for tracks with a high average speed, like High Speed Ring, keep your final gear around 4.000-4.3000, in order to ensure enough power to reach top speeds. Adjust 6th and 7th gears accordingly. For tracks like Cote d'Azure, with lots of slowing down and speeding up, put final gear around 3.500-3.700. You won't reach your higher gears, but it seems like you're better off without them. Tracks like New York, with a combination of the two, need to be somewhere in between.
(The advice on Final gear is opposite to what I usually do on most cars. In theory, lowering final gear will increase top speed, lower acceleration; raising final gear will lower top speed, increase acceleration. However, in my tests with the Formula GT, the opposite happened. I think this is because of the high hp, and the fact that there is a 7th gear.)
Since this car has more than enough power in low gears, I set the low gears (1st thru 4th) as long as possible. (slid all the way to the left.) 5th, 6th, and 7th gears depend on the course. Before I started the series, I did some testing at the Test Course, and got some counter-intuitive results for final gear settings. The final gear is by default set around 4.200, I think. If you move it lower, to the 3.500-3.700 range, this will increase your 1000m acceleration times. (I was expecting the opposite. My theory on this is because you spend less time in between gears.) However, with that setting, you'll quickly lose power in 6th and 7th gear, so it won't work on a track with long straight-aways.
So, for tracks with a high average speed, like High Speed Ring, keep your final gear around 4.000-4.3000, in order to ensure enough power to reach top speeds. Adjust 6th and 7th gears accordingly. For tracks like Cote d'Azure, with lots of slowing down and speeding up, put final gear around 3.500-3.700. You won't reach your higher gears, but it seems like you're better off without them. Tracks like New York, with a combination of the two, need to be somewhere in between.
(The advice on Final gear is opposite to what I usually do on most cars. In theory, lowering final gear will increase top speed, lower acceleration; raising final gear will lower top speed, increase acceleration. However, in my tests with the Formula GT, the opposite happened. I think this is because of the high hp, and the fact that there is a 7th gear.)
- 6
btw is there anyway to buy new tires for this car? or mod it..cause it only has 900 hp for me..
- 254
For gearing, I like to use the speed at the end of the longest straight to determine my optimum top gear and final drive. Usually I leave all the gears alone and just change final drive as needed. Some courses may get downforce adjustment, too, as if the straight is too long (ie Le Sarthe) you may not want all that drag-inducing downforce slowing you down.
- 6
I found out..you can't even buy tires :'( well.. I came in first on the first race because.. I got lucky the last lap but like 6th on the rest.. I need helpppp
- 12
RouWa
skip the first round of pit stops. find the AI pit window, and double it to yours. sure you'll have crappy tires, but on the oval it doesn't matter much. leave your f1 stock. you'll gain a lap, and the cpu will start to catch up, but will have to pit again before it can. pit with them this time, and repeat the cycle. watch out though, because your tires are worn, the b-spec driver will try to pit every lap after your tires are worn. you'll have to monitor and push O to avoid pitting.
the la sarth II is the last endurance race i need to finish.
- 303
I just finished Round 1 around Tokyo in A-spec. Very awesome stuff. Much more difficult than the Formula GT in GT3.
General rule of thumb for me is... stiff front/soft rear suspension. Brake biased leaned slightly towards the front. With Downforce adjusted to suit the track. I used about 75% full downforce around Tokyo. Toe camber/angles all set to 0 for the sake of saving tires. Though... I probably could have gone with negative toe in the rear. I found my front tires losing grip much quicker than my rear.
I don't set 7th gear to top out at the longest straights. I leave enough room just incase I get a nice long slipstream.
It's all about pit strategy! I wouldn't be overly concerned if you're pitting 1 lap sooner than the AI. It all works out in the end. Your tires will be more and more green towards the mid of the race while they're on fresh rubber. If you're consistent... you can put a good gap between you and the AI. Because the pit stops are starggered... things will get close near the closing stages. But in the end... if you're pit strat is right... you should be on yellow tires while the AI is on orage/red.
General rule of thumb for me is... stiff front/soft rear suspension. Brake biased leaned slightly towards the front. With Downforce adjusted to suit the track. I used about 75% full downforce around Tokyo. Toe camber/angles all set to 0 for the sake of saving tires. Though... I probably could have gone with negative toe in the rear. I found my front tires losing grip much quicker than my rear.
I don't set 7th gear to top out at the longest straights. I leave enough room just incase I get a nice long slipstream.
It's all about pit strategy! I wouldn't be overly concerned if you're pitting 1 lap sooner than the AI. It all works out in the end. Your tires will be more and more green towards the mid of the race while they're on fresh rubber. If you're consistent... you can put a good gap between you and the AI. Because the pit stops are starggered... things will get close near the closing stages. But in the end... if you're pit strat is right... you should be on yellow tires while the AI is on orage/red.
IMHO, there are four changes that are essential to make:
set shock bound to 6/6
set rear toe to -2 (best balance of grip/tire wear)
set diff acceleration side to 45
set diff deceleration side to 55
diff adjustments allow the car to corner at high speed much faster than stock without spinning out, and the shock/toe settings are to help with B-spec in the F1 championship. With these settings, I'm up to 3 seconds faster on all tracks (save high speed ring, but no big deal) than the AI on 4/overtake. Manage your fuel level (never keep adding fuel once tires are changed) properly, and you'll win the championship with ease. The AI finishes inconsistently, so by race 8 I'm already far enough ahead to skip 4 races if I wanted to.
Good luck.
set shock bound to 6/6
set rear toe to -2 (best balance of grip/tire wear)
set diff acceleration side to 45
set diff deceleration side to 55
diff adjustments allow the car to corner at high speed much faster than stock without spinning out, and the shock/toe settings are to help with B-spec in the F1 championship. With these settings, I'm up to 3 seconds faster on all tracks (save high speed ring, but no big deal) than the AI on 4/overtake. Manage your fuel level (never keep adding fuel once tires are changed) properly, and you'll win the championship with ease. The AI finishes inconsistently, so by race 8 I'm already far enough ahead to skip 4 races if I wanted to.
Good luck.
- 583
I found this to be the best allrounder (plus b-spec can use it too and still keep ahead).
Brakes F7/R16 you will have to adjust this for the tighter tracks i.e Monacco.
Spring rate 17.4/17.5
Ride height 50/50 I found its best to keep this slightly higher as this car bottoms out alot of the time i.e The ring.
Bound 6/6
Rebound 8/8
Camber 2/1
Toe 0/-2 For tighter tracks +1 in front.
Havent tried playing with the diff settings yet but with this setup all you'll have to adjust is gear settings, and maybe brake balance.
But this worked fine for me on Formula GT, although i did run the first stint or two in a-spec to get a lead then, the b-spec is able to maintain with this setup enough for the race win.
Brakes F7/R16 you will have to adjust this for the tighter tracks i.e Monacco.
Spring rate 17.4/17.5
Ride height 50/50 I found its best to keep this slightly higher as this car bottoms out alot of the time i.e The ring.
Bound 6/6
Rebound 8/8
Camber 2/1
Toe 0/-2 For tighter tracks +1 in front.
Havent tried playing with the diff settings yet but with this setup all you'll have to adjust is gear settings, and maybe brake balance.
But this worked fine for me on Formula GT, although i did run the first stint or two in a-spec to get a lead then, the b-spec is able to maintain with this setup enough for the race win.
- 297
- Mumbai, India
- Vype-R
- PferdeStarke
I am at 99.3% complete. Only 2 things to do, the M34 in Missions and the F1-GT Championship race at the Ring. Now I have a silver in that. I am not much of a tuner, so I dont know whats the best way to tune an F1 Car on the Nurb. If someone can help me tune it so that the B-Spec driver could finish this, all I'll have to focus on then would be the M34.
Someone please be kind enough and post a decent set-up for the Formula1 on the Nurburgring so that my B-Spec Bob can win. Thank you (in advance)
Someone please be kind enough and post a decent set-up for the Formula1 on the Nurburgring so that my B-Spec Bob can win. Thank you (in advance)
- 49
Thanks for the info! Much appreciated!
- 49
I was wondering if anyone had any advice for car settings for the Formula GT race at Infineon, for an A-Spec driver?
I'm currently using default settings, but I changed the toe angle to -1, as suggested, to reduce tire wear. However racing at the track greatly wears my tires. So much so that I am forced to pit every 6 laps (while the A.I. does every 10). This places me at a severe disadvantage.
Can anyone give me some additional advice with the settings that can help me reduce tirewear, but still make the car competiteve?
Thanks
-Olympia
I'm currently using default settings, but I changed the toe angle to -1, as suggested, to reduce tire wear. However racing at the track greatly wears my tires. So much so that I am forced to pit every 6 laps (while the A.I. does every 10). This places me at a severe disadvantage.
Can anyone give me some additional advice with the settings that can help me reduce tirewear, but still make the car competiteve?
Thanks
-Olympia
How are you guys having problems with this?
I didn't even change the car at all and it slaughtered the F1 races, lapping the other cars.
The only thing I did was set it to #4 on B-spec with Overtake(triangle) on.
Oh, and I didn't do this but on Nurb you might want to make it pit a bit early sometimes... because it might realize it needs to pit at the start of a lap... and the tires will go completely out before it can get to the finish, crapping all over its lap time.
I didn't even change the car at all and it slaughtered the F1 races, lapping the other cars.
The only thing I did was set it to #4 on B-spec with Overtake(triangle) on.
Oh, and I didn't do this but on Nurb you might want to make it pit a bit early sometimes... because it might realize it needs to pit at the start of a lap... and the tires will go completely out before it can get to the finish, crapping all over its lap time.
you guys DO know that if you set it to 1 or 2, the tire wear, in B-Spec, goes down slightly, by a lap or two. i always did like 4 or 5, and i got screwed over, like a lactose intolerant eating icecream. 
. maybe that;s ur problem, if not, then change the toe settings to whatever you prefer, maybe -1
. maybe that;s ur problem, if not, then change the toe settings to whatever you prefer, maybe -1
- 226
- MADTJ
sherukenI am at 99.3% complete. Only 2 things to do, the M34 in Missions and the F1-GT Championship race at the Ring. Now I have a silver in that. I am not much of a tuner, so I dont know whats the best way to tune an F1 Car on the Nurb. If someone can help me tune it so that the B-Spec driver could finish this, all I'll have to focus on then would be the M34.
Someone please be kind enough and post a decent set-up for the Formula1 on the Nurburgring so that my B-Spec Bob can win. Thank you (in advance)
i'm on 99.8% complete... i'm still STUCK WITH M34
by the way, for the nurb, try put your height at 60 and lowest all spring rate (will help because of sooo bumpy road) auto setting in 18... hope this help
- 2,208
Thanks to "R32GTST/M", "stigie", "Awajie Islander", and "Duck7892" for their input, which led me to this setup. It works like crazy:
SR 17.4 / 17.5
RH 45 / 45
SB 6 / 6
SR 8 / 8
Camb 2.0 / 1.0
Toe 0 / -2
BB 4 / 1
LSDI 15
LSDA 45
LSDD 55
ASM 10 / 10
TCS 5
DF Max
To use the transmission final drive settings below, first do this:
1. Slide Final all the way to the right to 5.500.
2. Slide Autoset full right to 25, then full left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.
3. Then slide Final to the correct ratio for the track. Here are the actual Final settings for each track in the Formula GT series:
Tokyo Route 246 - 3.220
Twin Ring Motegi-Super Speedway - 3.220
New York - 3.220
High Speed Ring - 3.220
Grand Valley Speedway - 3.220
Circuit de la Sarthe I - 3.220
Cote d' Azur - 3.750
Seoul Central - 3.220
Infineon Raceway-Sports Car Course - 3.700
Laguna Seca Raceway - 3.700
Twin Ring Motegi-Road Course - 3.500
Nurburgring - 3.220
El Captain - 3.400
Fuji Speedway 2005 - 3.220
Suzuka Circuit - 3.500
__________________________________
On most tracks the fuel will last over twice as long as the tires. Opting to not take on fuel on every other stop not only saves time in the pits, you'll go faster with the lighter fuel load.
(BTW, my B-Spec Bob can drive the F1 car pretty much error-free on the "4" setting on all tracks except Suzuka. On many such as Tokyo R246, he can go error-free on "5" for the whole race.)
I don't know what to say about that stock 10/10 ASM setting, other than that I can go a lot faster with it than with ASM off. I'm conditioned from the old GT3 days to always turn ASM off because the conventional wisdom is that it makes you go slower. I am really beginning to wonder if that is always the case in GT4. It may be more a matter of how you want to play the game - aided or unaided. In some cases it could be as much a speed secret as it is a crutch to help you stay under control.
There is no doubt, however, that 10/10 ASM drastically lowers my A-Spec lap times with the Formula GT car. Example: Tokyo R246 - No ASM: 1:15.9 best lap so far. 10/10 ASM: 1:14.1, and I'll do better than that if I ever manage a "perfect" lap.
Use ASM to taste on the Formula 1 car. Your call.
_________________________________
SR 17.4 / 17.5
RH 45 / 45
SB 6 / 6
SR 8 / 8
Camb 2.0 / 1.0
Toe 0 / -2
BB 4 / 1
LSDI 15
LSDA 45
LSDD 55
ASM 10 / 10
TCS 5
DF Max
To use the transmission final drive settings below, first do this:
1. Slide Final all the way to the right to 5.500.
2. Slide Autoset full right to 25, then full left to 1 and leave it there. You now have the closest-possible set of gears.
3. Then slide Final to the correct ratio for the track. Here are the actual Final settings for each track in the Formula GT series:
Tokyo Route 246 - 3.220
Twin Ring Motegi-Super Speedway - 3.220
New York - 3.220
High Speed Ring - 3.220
Grand Valley Speedway - 3.220
Circuit de la Sarthe I - 3.220
Cote d' Azur - 3.750
Seoul Central - 3.220
Infineon Raceway-Sports Car Course - 3.700
Laguna Seca Raceway - 3.700
Twin Ring Motegi-Road Course - 3.500
Nurburgring - 3.220
El Captain - 3.400
Fuji Speedway 2005 - 3.220
Suzuka Circuit - 3.500
__________________________________
On most tracks the fuel will last over twice as long as the tires. Opting to not take on fuel on every other stop not only saves time in the pits, you'll go faster with the lighter fuel load.
(BTW, my B-Spec Bob can drive the F1 car pretty much error-free on the "4" setting on all tracks except Suzuka. On many such as Tokyo R246, he can go error-free on "5" for the whole race.)
I don't know what to say about that stock 10/10 ASM setting, other than that I can go a lot faster with it than with ASM off. I'm conditioned from the old GT3 days to always turn ASM off because the conventional wisdom is that it makes you go slower. I am really beginning to wonder if that is always the case in GT4. It may be more a matter of how you want to play the game - aided or unaided. In some cases it could be as much a speed secret as it is a crutch to help you stay under control.
There is no doubt, however, that 10/10 ASM drastically lowers my A-Spec lap times with the Formula GT car. Example: Tokyo R246 - No ASM: 1:15.9 best lap so far. 10/10 ASM: 1:14.1, and I'll do better than that if I ever manage a "perfect" lap.
Use ASM to taste on the Formula 1 car. Your call.
_________________________________
- 466
Tokyo Route 246 1'14.062. I started this tune after reading Scaff's entire thread about brake balance. The one thing I learned from it- besides how easily mass gets confused with inertia <- my take at least- was, surprisingly, that too much downforce might reduce traction. With that information in hand, I set off to Rte 246 with decidedly flattened foils. Initially it seemed clear I was on to something, but I could not link enough exceptional quarters to beat my 1'15 ghost (with full downforce). Those other quarters indicate there is about 1 second's faster time to be had, and that is with MY humble driving skills. This car seems a bit funky, because without stabilizers to adjust, all the other adjustments seem redundant or as if they override each other.
I also have a good max DF tune for Nurburgring, and also an arcade tune (I believe the physics are different in arcade), but it is not as developed because it is so arduous to test. An interesting note, the car aquired approximately 240 miles establishing the Rte 246 tune.
brakes 3/3
springs 16.4/16.3 16.2/16.2
height 53/53 57/57
bound 5/5 6/6
rebound 6/6 7/7
camber 2.7/2.0 2.8/2.0
toe -1/6 -6/6
auto 15 (tried "the tranny trick", you can clearly see the ghost "top out" as you pass it)
asm/o always off
asm/u never on
tcs 3
downforce 66/92 75/105
lsd 13/37/22 10/40/30
I also have a good max DF tune for Nurburgring, and also an arcade tune (I believe the physics are different in arcade), but it is not as developed because it is so arduous to test. An interesting note, the car aquired approximately 240 miles establishing the Rte 246 tune.
brakes 3/3
springs 16.4/16.3 16.2/16.2
height 53/53 57/57
bound 5/5 6/6
rebound 6/6 7/7
camber 2.7/2.0 2.8/2.0
toe -1/6 -6/6
auto 15 (tried "the tranny trick", you can clearly see the ghost "top out" as you pass it)
asm/o always off
asm/u never on
tcs 3
downforce 66/92 75/105
lsd 13/37/22 10/40/30
Attachments
- 2,898
- London
- GTP_Synwraith
Hi there,
I'm new to the boards. I've been online for years and post on other forums but it never occurred to me to look for GT forums. It looks fantastic here and I look forward to reading much of the past conversation...anyway, about the topic..
I've been trying to match and beat the fastest laps for the Formula GT car I've seen on various web pages, mostly the leaderboard on this site and the times set on GT4league.com.
My main attempts have been Suzuka and Laguna Seca. The best time I found for Suzuka was a 1'28.031 on GT4 league. The best time that I can manage is a 1'30.
Now I'm the first to admit I know very little about car setup despite being a huge motorsport and GT enthuisiast. I have my F1 car set to 45mm F and R ride height and the spring rate all the way to the left on F and R (10 I believe?). I don't use the tranny trick and my Camber is 2.5/1.5
As I said, most of this is guesswork and extreme testing to see what effect it has. If I alter the gear ratios it's using the Auto setting. I know, it's very crude and probably has a few of you cringing but when it comes to cambers, toes and suspension settings, other than ride height I don't really know what I'm doing precisely.
I drive with ASM ON and MT.
In reply to the conversation about Tokyo, I managed a 1'12 lap time using those above settings of mine and using ASM during the first round of the Formula GT championship. I'm not sure if that helps anybody or not? (I can't believe that someone managed a 1'05 on this track on GT4league...)
I also have a request; I would love to see someone's successful setup for Suzuka to see if I can better my laptime.
Thanks in advance for any assistance, nice to meet you all.
All the best
Maz
I'm new to the boards. I've been online for years and post on other forums but it never occurred to me to look for GT forums. It looks fantastic here and I look forward to reading much of the past conversation...anyway, about the topic..
I've been trying to match and beat the fastest laps for the Formula GT car I've seen on various web pages, mostly the leaderboard on this site and the times set on GT4league.com.
My main attempts have been Suzuka and Laguna Seca. The best time I found for Suzuka was a 1'28.031 on GT4 league. The best time that I can manage is a 1'30.
Now I'm the first to admit I know very little about car setup despite being a huge motorsport and GT enthuisiast. I have my F1 car set to 45mm F and R ride height and the spring rate all the way to the left on F and R (10 I believe?). I don't use the tranny trick and my Camber is 2.5/1.5
As I said, most of this is guesswork and extreme testing to see what effect it has. If I alter the gear ratios it's using the Auto setting. I know, it's very crude and probably has a few of you cringing but when it comes to cambers, toes and suspension settings, other than ride height I don't really know what I'm doing precisely.
I drive with ASM ON and MT.
In reply to the conversation about Tokyo, I managed a 1'12 lap time using those above settings of mine and using ASM during the first round of the Formula GT championship. I'm not sure if that helps anybody or not? (I can't believe that someone managed a 1'05 on this track on GT4league...)
I also have a request; I would love to see someone's successful setup for Suzuka to see if I can better my laptime.
Thanks in advance for any assistance, nice to meet you all.
All the best
Maz
