Formula GT car settings?

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Maziar
...My main attempts have been Suzuka and Laguna Seca. The best time I found for Suzuka was a 1'28.031 on GT4 league...

Is that in GT Mode, with "Medium" tires? Or "Arcade" mode? I'm waiting for my 1:28.875 @ Suzuka, to be verified on this board for GT Mode (R3 tires)...ran a "bit" faster than that last night. I believe a mid-upper 1:27.xxx is in there somewhere.


Maziar
...In reply to the conversation about Tokyo, I managed a 1'12 lap time using those above settings of mine and using ASM during the first round of the Formula GT championship. I'm not sure if that helps anybody or not? (I can't believe that someone managed a 1'05 on this track on GT4league...)

Again, was this "Arcade Mode"? That's........"fast". Not saying "impossible", but brakes probably weren't used much. :)

I did a 1:07.7xx on Tokyo for "GT Mode" (again R3 tires, waiting to get Verified here), but my setup was no where near the setup above.


Maziar
...I also have a request; I would love to see someone's successful setup for Suzuka to see if I can better my laptime....)

A successful setup is the setup "for you" that allows the fastest time. I'd say you have about (3) seconds you can shave off those 1:30's you are getting...that's "probably" the most you can get on the R3s. I'd raise an eyebrow on an "R3 shod F1" 1:26 at Suzuka.
 
Hi something is driving me insane:

I am trying to give B-Bop a stable car while running in GT-mode in free run at Le Sarthe II (always speed setting 3).

The best I can come up with is running 11 laps clean (different settings / different downforce values) and after that it crashes somewhere.

My findings so far:
- ASM and TCS values do not have any influence on stability, lap times or number of clean laps for B-Bop.
- Downforce at maximum gives the fastest lap times (for me, with the settings I tried so far).
- B-Bop is extremely consistent. With the same settings it will always run the same number of clean laps and the same fastest lap (this might be an opportunity for a tuning contest) again and again and ...
- minor changes in any setup value will ruin your setup, this means finding good settings is kinda hit and miss (trail and error).
- a setting that runs quite stable in B-spec is not always a setting that will work out in a race with other cars (tried and tested in the family cup at setting 0)

My fastest lap (GT-Mode / World circuits / Le Sarthe II / Free Run / B-Spec / Speed settings 3) = 3.04.834 (at speed 5 it gives the ocassional clean run and it did 3.01.9xx). This same setup runs clean for 11 laps. But when I try to race it in the family cup it crashes on the long straight (the car cannot handle even faster speed on the long straight very well).

But I do not seem to get more than 11 clean laps no matter what settings I try. Does anybody have a setting that will give more than those 11 clean laps?

Help?
 
CooperS
But I do not seem to get more than 11 clean laps no matter what settings I try. Does anybody have a setting that will give more than those 11 clean laps?

Help?
What is your B-Spec skill level?
 
rk
What is your B-Spec skill level?

Over 9500 so that should not be the problem.



PS Why do you use such extreme toe settings for the NürnburgRing ?

They do not work for me at all, but like all settings that are optimized for another driver that is to be expected I guess. Still the straight line stability suffers a lot from those settings and at the ring that stability seems important to me.

Curious as ever
CooperS
 
CooperS
Over 9500 so that should not be the problem.



PS Why do you use such extreme toe settings for the NürnburgRing ?

They do not work for me at all, but like all settings that are optimized for another driver that is to be expected I guess. Still the straight line stability suffers a lot from those settings and at the ring that stability seems important to me.

Curious as ever
CooperS
To encourage throttle induced steering. The theory being that suspension can reduce the effect but not eliminate weight transfer in high G turns. If your outer drive wheel is holding traction, it stands to reason that you could actually "steer" that traction, just like, for example, using toe out on front wheels in a front wheel drive car.
Try it again but accelerate through every turn (brake early if necessary).
You can easily tune for stability with other settings, although the stabilizer thing bugs me.

P.S. My tune is strongly based on the old racing addage: " You need to be either WFO or full brakes, anything else is just coasting." It really doesn't work if you let up without going to full brakes. :)
 
Hi Rk, will try your settings later to see how they feel.

PS you did not help with my nemisis: the F1 at Le Sarthe II, do you have a setup that is stable there for B-spec runs - if I may be so bold ?

Or could you try this and see how it runs on your version (Mine is PAL, yours NSTC ?):

Formula Gran Turismo No extra weight

Brake Balance 3 / 3 (standard)
Ride Height 60 / 65
Damper Bound 2 / 3
Damper Rebound 3 / 4
Camber 0.0 / 0.0
Toe 0 / 0
Downforce 75 / 105 (max)
LSD 15/40/30 (standard)
ASMo-ASMu-TCS 10 / 10 / 5 (standard)

Autosetting 16 (no tranny trick or individual gear fine tuning)

Run at: GT-Mode / World Circuits / Le Sarthe II / Free Run
Mode: in B-Spec at Speedsetting 3

Note: using even a sleightly different setting radically changes the outcome. Settings not mentioned are standard.


This is not my fastest setting but another that can do 11 clean laps and run in the family cup and win. Posting your findings makes it possible to compare your results with mine.

Post what results you (or anybody else) gets in the mentioned B-Spec run:
a. the number of clean laps
b. fastest laptime
c. also your current amount of B-Spec points

Curious as ever
 
CooperS
Post what results you (or anybody else) gets in the mentioned B-Spec run:
a. the number of clean laps
b. fastest laptime
c. also your current amount of B-Spec points

Curious as ever

I used my "Nurburgring tune" with ride height set to 55/65 (important).
a. the number of clean laps= 15, got too bored. (total 24)
b. fastest laptime= 3'04.159, on lap 14 he took an extra second and a half. On lap 17 I set speed to push (#5), time went to 3'01.170, ran that through lap 24 without incident.
c. also your current amount of B-Spec points= 7311 (83 machine, 75 course, 69 battle)

I consider this a hearty endorsement of my tuning skills by the B-Spec drivers, a small prize, but I deserve something for my time running an extremely uneventful test.
 
rk
I used my "Nurburgring tune" with ride height set to 55/65 (important).
a. the number of clean laps= 15, got too bored. (total 24)
b. fastest laptime= 3'04.159, on lap 14 he took an extra second and a half. On lap 17 I set speed to push (#5), time went to 3'01.170, ran that through lap 24 without incident.
c. also your current amount of B-Spec points= 7311 (83 machine, 75 course, 69 battle)

I consider this a hearty endorsement of my tuning skills by the B-Spec drivers, a small prize, but I deserve something for my time running an extremely uneventful test.

Hi Rk, I tried it but no sigar for me... Maybe there is a glitch in the PAL version? Driving F1 cars in A-Spec goes effortlessly but not in B-spec

But to make sure:

Are your settings:

Brakes 3 / 3
Spring 16.2 / 16.2
Height 55 / 65
Bound 6 / 6
Rebound 7 / 7
Camber 2.8 / 2.0
Toe -6 / 6
Auto 15
ASMo/ASMu/TCS 0 / 0 / 3
LSD 10 / 40 / 30


PS You deserve a medal just for giving it a try 👍 I admit it is not the most exciting test but I like to think that testing at Le Sarthe II is the spot to find out about stability and a car that can handle Le Sarthe II can handle any other track.

PPS I personally like to drive the F1 car with max downforce, max ride height, min springrate. This "soft" setting is very forgiving and for just playing much easier to handle. But not fast enough for hotlaps though.
 
CooperS
Hi Rk, I tried it but no sigar for me... Maybe there is a glitch in the PAL version? Driving F1 cars in A-Spec goes effortlessly but not in B-spec

I personally like to drive the F1 car with max downforce, max ride height, min springrate. This "soft" setting is very forgiving and for just playing much easier to handle. But not fast enough for hotlaps though.
The Nur tune included downforce at 75/105 (in case you used the reduced setting).
I will concede that I have much to learn about translating racing theory to GT4 tuning. My tunes reflect theory because I have little hard data. The theory could be listed as points:
1. You want your suspension a grippy as possible within the limits of stability. Softer is almost always grippier, so much so that is promolgulates instability, the tuners job being to balance the two.

2. You should want as much downforce (grip) as possible, if there is too much friction add horsepower, except you can actually exceed the tires ability to hold, it is as if the foils push the tires out from under the car.

3. The lowest height above "suspension unweighting" terrain irregularities will give the most stable center of gravity, but tractive effects of under chassis downforce far exceed the advantages from a low c.g.

and we already know my old standby

4. For the lowest lap times you must be in either one of two states: maximum acceleration or maximum decceleration, anything else is just coasting.
 
I've tried all the setups I've seen, but I still can't beat these:

SR_______10.0/10.0
RH_______49/49
SB________4/4
SRB_______4/4
CA______2.1/1.4
TA________0/-1

IT__________15
Acel________40
Decel_______30
Brakes______3/3
Down-force____75/103

Tranny trick, then:
1st___________7.016
2nd___________4.746
3rd___________3.399
4th___________2.529
5th___________2.020
6th___________1.690
7th___________1.400
Final__________4.125
Auto___________16

ASM over______0
ASM under_____0
TCS___________5

They were created by Rac3rX. See what you think.
Pete.
 
rk
The Nur tune included downforce at 75/105 (in case you used the reduced setting).
I tried it with 75 / 105 (see post above).

rk
I will concede that I have much to learn about translating racing theory to GT4 tuning. My tunes reflect theory because I have little hard data. The theory could be listed as points:
1. You want your suspension a grippy as possible within the limits of stability. Softer is almost always grippier, so much so that is promolgulates instability, the tuners job being to balance the two.
So low suspension values is the way to go, but not too low. How do you know if the values are too low? What behavior in a car are you looking for to determine if a car has too soft suspension settings ?

rk
2. You should want as much downforce (grip) as possible, if there is too much friction add horsepower, except you can actually exceed the tires ability to hold, it is as if the foils push the tires out from under the car.
I guess the same question here, how can you tell the downforce is too much? What behavior in a car are you looking for?

3. The lowest height above "suspension unweighting" terrain irregularities will give the most stable center of gravity, but tractive effects of under chassis downforce far exceed the advantages from a low c.g.
This is a little above my technical knowledge :scared: But the message that remains is the ride height as low as possible. But like before: how?

and we already know my old standby

4. For the lowest lap times you must be in either one of two states: maximum acceleration or maximum decceleration, anything else is just coasting.
For me this is true as well but only possible with a car that I can handle well.

To sum it all up in laymen's terms: the general rule of thumb seems:
- suspension as soft as possible
- downforce as strong as possible
- ride height as low as possible
- race don't cruise

Where I am very curious as to how to determine the "as possible" part.
Regards
CooperS
 
CooperS
Where I am very curious as to how to determine the "as possible" part.
Regards
CooperS
The as possible part is I think why we are all here. If you are like me, then you came here to learn, as we all probably did, so we must teach each other.
CooperS
So low suspension values is the way to go, but not too low. How do you know if the values are too low? What behavior in a car are you looking for to determine if a car has too soft suspension settings?
This is difficult to quantify but is most easily determined by incremental testing. Which is to say set it soft and run a test lap(s). Bump it a click higher and test again; repeat until lap times stop diminishing and start increasing. The best non-subjective way I have found to learn the ideal suspension values is to "invoke the lap ghost" detailed in my Noober Tuner Guide. Granted, my skills have increased since posting the guide, but the information contained can still be helpful. Clearly at some point, as with all adjustable parameters, one can beign to recognize the feedback the game provides to identify the condition of suspension stiffness.
CooperS
I guess the same question here, how can you tell the downforce is too much? What behavior in a car are you looking for?
Downforce is too much if you are driving a limited hp car and you can't race your competition in the straights. As to the matter of excessive DF negatively affecting cars with sufficient hp, the concept (at least being implemented in game physics) is theoretical but is nicely described in Scaff's excellent thread on brakes. Although the game clearly includes the inherent friction Df generates, I have seen no evidence of traction reduction and usually tune for maximum. The test would be simple, however, if you suspect excessive DF: run a lap, reduce a click, then compare.
rk
The lowest height above "suspension unweighting" terrain irregularities will give the most stable center of gravity, but tractive effects of under chassis downforce far exceed the advantages from a low c.g.
CooperS
This is a little above my technical knowledge :scared: But the message that remains is the ride height as low as possible. But like before: how?
Um, ok, this was a mouthful, let's try breaking it down.
The lowest height will give the most stable center of gravity, I think everyone will agree. It also seems patently obvious that terrain irregularities might interfere with that stability; what isn't so clear is the extent to which they do so. It isn't just a matter of tire wear on the bumpy Mulsanne, Polyphony can't give you that slam to the tailbone that sometimes is the only penalty for a bottomed suspension, so they have your car dart to one side, usually off the track and out of the running. You can easily see this at Nurburgring. Use the tune above (or any you like) but set for minimal ride height and run about 7 turns into the course, onto a bumpy straight that rises to a crest with a right-hand sweeper called Quiddlebacher Hohe (heights). No matter the other settings, if you full throttleup the straight and over that crest you are guaranteed to loose control upon landing, that is bump-stop unweighting. Now re-do the test using default or higher ride height and I guarantee you will see a difference.
Finally, I discovered chassis DF quite by accident, but it completely explains the elaborate fencing that has been showing up under the rear of racing cars. I was reading an article about the CLR that flipped at La Sarthe in '99. Although I disagree with the autor about the causes, he made reference to chassis DF: "That small rake angle creates a shallow ground effects tunnel which produces the vast majority of the total downforce generated by the car." See, the fencing exists to maintain this partial vacuum.
Coincidentally, I was having trouble at the time with the smaller sports cars at speed. I couldn't get cars like the Elan to stay on the straights at speeds above 125mph. I had tried everything, stiff, soft, camber, even ballast and it didn't seem right. I had remembered a tuner in GT2 that had made excellent raked tunes, which I finally, grudgingly, emulated; so I decided to apply the effect to the Elan and it worked like a charm.
Now all my tunes start at default and go up in back. :)
Hope this helps.
 
pmgolf
I've tried all the setups I've seen, but I still can't beat these:
[snip]
See what you think.
Pete.

They're working great for me; although I'm using them on Saarthe 24h I instead of the F1 races, they've put me a minute-forty-five ahead of the competition in just a dozen laps.
 
pmgolf
I've tried all the setups I've seen, but I still can't beat these:
See what you think.
Pete.

Ive got to say these are an awesome setup Pete. 👍 I'm using them on Formula GT Championship and B-spec Bob is able to lap the rest on most races, nice one for posting those mate!
 
SouL
I just finished Round 1 around Tokyo in A-spec. Very awesome stuff. Much more difficult than the Formula GT in GT3.

General rule of thumb for me is... stiff front/soft rear suspension. Brake biased leaned slightly towards the front. With Downforce adjusted to suit the track. I used about 75% full downforce around Tokyo. Toe camber/angles all set to 0 for the sake of saving tires. Though... I probably could have gone with negative toe in the rear. I found my front tires losing grip much quicker than my rear.

I don't set 7th gear to top out at the longest straights. I leave enough room just incase I get a nice long slipstream.

It's all about pit strategy! I wouldn't be overly concerned if you're pitting 1 lap sooner than the AI. It all works out in the end. Your tires will be more and more green towards the mid of the race while they're on fresh rubber. If you're consistent... you can put a good gap between you and the AI. Because the pit stops are starggered... things will get close near the closing stages. But in the end... if you're pit strat is right... you should be on yellow tires while the AI is on orage/red.

???? it's soooo easy to beat lol, ALL you need to is set driving aid to FULL (20/20/10) and i beat it no problem, and not recommect for B-spec tho, cuz she will pitt twice... :\
 
Thought I'd finally post on here :nervous:

Just thought I'd say the settings posted by pmgolf are top class 👍

I have done every race in the F1 championship bar The Ring as I'm still pretty rubbish at it but after using those settings I am leading by 20 seconds on lap 12/15 using B-Spec :)

Cheers pmgolf :dopey:
 
Div is back
Guys, is it me or TCS does not work for that F1?

I set it up to 10 and I still spin in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.

What's up with that?
Too stiff. My tcs is 3. Any higher and they pull away, any lower and the wheels spin...and they pull away.
 
IMHO, to drive the F1 car(with confidence in the rear end) with a dual shock, the setup needs to be able to accommodate Fernando Alonso. His driving style is such that he slams the wheel to full-lock in an instant, just like you can do so easily with a dual shock controller. with high spring rates and low ride height, I can't control the F1 car at all with a dual shock. touching the steering at all under braking, lifting mid corner, applying throttle mid corner, I couldn't do any of it with default suspension settings, or stiffer/lower ones I found online. Now after going 10 for 10 so far in FormulaGT (b-specing in only 1 race for the last 2 tire stints) with at least 160 kilos of ballast in every race (except Le Mans where I used 100 kilos), this is the most stable F1 setup I've come up with so far. you only really have to be wary of the rear end at speeds >200mph, but the downforce pretty much takes care of it.

suspension
spring rate f/r: 13.9/11.0
height: both 65
shock bound f/r: 6/7
shock rebound f/r: 5/6
camber f/r: 2.5/1.1
toe: both 0

driving aids
ASM oversteer: 4
ASM understeer: 0
TCS: 7

downforce
<215mph:
f/r: 75/81 some tracks I might lower these settings by like 6 or 7 ticks)

>220mph:
f/r: 50-55/63

brakes
f/r: 6/6 - this setting is practically ABS

transmission
I set the auto gears to max out at the end of the longest straight, with maybe 500rpm to spare. my final drive is 4.200 because the default was close to that and I'm a pothead.


everything else is default for me I think. except ballast, which I add so the AI isn't so much slower.

(edit: over 10 races I made a couple changes and decided to clean up the post)
 
rk
Too stiff. My tcs is 3. Any higher and they pull away, any lower and the wheels spin...and they pull away.


My problem is solved, it wasn't a case of setting up the TCS.

I think I just found a glitch.

I did a Tsubuka Track Meet and TCS was off even if I turned it on.
 
I just want to say thank you all for the help. Ive been struggeling for days with this cup and now I finally have a chance of winning!! Its so much easier with traction controll and asc, before I always drove around with that off but with the formula 1 car its almost impossible with it off!
 
:yuck:
Have been trying for days to come up with settings that help the tyres not go to lunch midway in the second lap of the ring, is this possible or does my monkey have to cope with red tyres for half a lap.
Thx in advance.
 
sheruken
I am at 99.3% complete. Only 2 things to do, the M34 in Missions and the F1-GT Championship race at the Ring. Now I have a silver in that. I am not much of a tuner, so I dont know whats the best way to tune an F1 Car on the Nurb. If someone can help me tune it so that the B-Spec driver could finish this, all I'll have to focus on then would be the M34.
Someone please be kind enough and post a decent set-up for the Formula1 on the Nurburgring so that my B-Spec Bob can win. Thank you (in advance) :)

I found the key to win this in B-Spec, is to pit on lap 1 so you are not confined by the pack. Use 4 (Fast) not setting 5, and overtake. There are two places you may want to set momentarily to 3 on each lap, to insure you don't run off the track and lose time. (or did I use 5 and the momentarty 4?) Don't know how to describe there location off hand. One was about the 1 oclock position of the map, the other, one of the curves before the long straitaway.

Anyway, pitting on lap 1 allows you to not be held up by the other cars on your lap time, and keeps you from having to use "practice" to start in 1st place. Since it is 15 laps, and all cars pit ever 2nd lap, you are not losing time because you pit the same number of times by the race end. After a bit, if your settings are right, you will stay in 1st place. I think I kept all suspension setting at default except the ride height. I don't remember how high I had it, but increased it some because of the bumps.

Oh... one more thing... I added 30KG over the rear axle (+50 balance). and increased the TCS to 6, maybe 7? The weight reduces tire spin for better acceleration. I also decreased front and rear downforce by 5.

Hope this helps.
 
rk
I used my "Nurburgring tune" with ride height set to 55/65 (important).
a. the number of clean laps= 15, got too bored. (total 24)
b. fastest laptime= 3'04.159, on lap 14 he took an extra second and a half. On lap 17 I set speed to push (#5), time went to 3'01.170, ran that through lap 24 without incident.
c. also your current amount of B-Spec points= 7311 (83 machine, 75 course, 69 battle)

I consider this a hearty endorsement of my tuning skills by the B-Spec drivers, a small prize, but I deserve something for my time running an extremely uneventful test.

Hi Rk, I have found a setting that gave me a 3.03.295 at speedsetting 3 (not many clean laps though):

Brake balance 3 / 3 (standard)
Spring rate 10.0 / 10.0
Ride height 65 / 65
Damper Bound 2 / 2
Damper Rebound 3 / 3
Camber 2.0 / 1.0
Toe 0 / 0

Gearing: Autosetting 15
LSD standard settings
No balast weight

So far nothing major, the tric is in the downforce:
Downforce 45 / 105

Anything I left out would be standard.
 
i finally won the sauber C9 :D
and im going 2 drive the 24 hours la sarthe 2 with it "D

hoping it will work

anyways, the set-up worked with my formula 1 car
so thnx for that :P

enjoy the game all
 
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