◆ SNAIL [THE LOBANARO LOUNGE] No longer runningPS4 

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Rednose58
Took those two puppies out on the Big Willow for a spin last night and it looks like it is going to be another night of awesome racing. My beautiful wife and I are volunteering at a Canadian PGA golf tournament from Monday to Sunday next week. If things go as planned there is chance that I can join before the first race starts. Otherwise I'll join up for the second race.

I found the Camaro to be slightly more economic with the fuel at 60.20 Liter/100km vs. the Stang at approx 60.95 Liter/100km

Now, @davidt33 , You know how long the track is and it is probably going to be 20 laps. So, you can work out the distance we will race. Use the consumption numbers above to calculate how much fuel you will need and Lobban will probably put half of that in the tank. 1 mile is approx 1.605 km

Example: if the race is 50 miles total. Then we drive approx 80 km. Fuel needed will be (80/100)x60.95 = 48.76 Liters. Round it up to 49 and Lobban will probably give you 25 liters
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That seems complicated as.

If its 20 minute races.

Race time divided by Lap times = Number of Laps
(1200 / x ) = ?
Divide that by 2 and go see how much fuel you need from the game.

So 1200 / 60 = 20 laps (10 laps of fuel) or 1200 / 90 = 15 laps (8 laps of fuel)

If its 30 minutes races, 1800 / x
 
coltsjugg
That seems complicated as.

If its 20 minute races.

Race time divided by Lap times = Number of Laps
(1200 / x ) = ?
Divide that by 2 and go see how much fuel you need from the game.

So 1200 / 60 = 20 laps (10 laps of fuel) or 1200 / 90 = 15 laps (8 laps of fuel)

If its 30 minutes races, 1800 / x
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I was just pulling David's leg.
 
Looking forward to try to make it tonight. Already asked wife to cover 2nd half of son’s football practice, so I could come home and race. (Imagine that conversation!) I like Big Willy. I destoyed @GTLehman time trial but he was probably sandbagging as to come back and strip my confidence. Either way, @Rednose58 has probably laid down some insane time by now to make us want to go back to ‘soap box derby’ to fulfill our need for car racing.
 
coltsjugg
That seems complicated as.

If its 20 minute races.

Race time divided by Lap times = Number of Laps
(1200 / x ) = ?
Divide that by 2 and go see how much fuel you need from the game.

So 1200 / 60 = 20 laps (10 laps of fuel) or 1200 / 90 = 15 laps (8 laps of fuel)

If its 30 minutes races, 1800 / x
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Ok that settles it. I'll be putting in 1800 Litres of fuel.
 
Rob Brown
Looking forward to try to make it tonight. Already asked wife to cover 2nd half of son’s football practice, so I could come home and race. (Imagine that conversation!) I like Big Willy. I destoyed @GTLehman time trial but he was probably sandbagging as to come back and strip my confidence. Either way, @Rednose58 has probably laid down some insane time by now to make us want to go back to ‘soap box derby’ to fulfill our need for car racing.
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Yeah you did! I made some headway last night and brought it down, but still didn't do better than yours - well done!
It's a rainy day here, so I should be able to make it without a problem. Looking forward to seeing you on the track again Rob.

1800 litres of fuel? Sounds legit for big 'Merican iron!
 
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David David David, ya Wanker. Let me lead you by the hand little one.

20 lap races
25 liters of go juice to start for each car....after that you're on your own.
NO INCLEMENT WEATHER, but the time of day will change from early morning race 1. Race two will be hot hot hot and sunny at midday, so watch out for burning rubber. Race three, near dusk.......not dark cause I'm really old and have trouble seeing in the dark and because neither car has headlights.

David, you sure you have the right car?

Alex, pfffft.....message received.
Rob Brown, look for the invite.
 
@Aero,

Glad that you’re doing better, I know we all miss you.

I have a favor to ask. Could you look at my crude drawing and let me know if the part circled in blue is correct? I’m wiring up 2 sim racing platforms (flight and motorcycle) to have tactile transducers. Each Aura Bass Pro is rated at 4 Ohms. Each platform will have 2 of the bass shakers. The receiever I’m using to drive the Auras is rated for 8 Ohms. I know I can safely run it at 12 Ohms, but I’ll be reducing the power too much and have to raise the volume to drive the shakers. Conversely, a 4 Ohm load would possibly cause overheating, and a 2 Ohm load will probably blow the amp in the AVR. I’m thinking that I should wire them in parallel rather than in series to achieve 8 Ohms. I’ll also be using either an 80 Hz low pass frequency modulator (FMod) or a 50 Hz LP FMod to prevent too much shaking during the wrong times. I only want it to shake over bumps, or during engine revving, bombs/machine guns, etc.

I’ll be using the speaker connectors from the shaker AVR (Audio/Video Receiver). I plan on this wiring configuration:
+ AVR speaker connector to +bass shaker 1.
Bass shaker 1 - to + bass shaker 2.
- bass shaker 2 back to - AVR speaker connector.
That should maintain it at 8 Ohms, correct? If so, I’ll do it the same way for sim platform number 2.

Thanks!


C271CB14-42C0-424A-8861-3C900FAD652D.jpeg
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GUTTERBOY3007
@Aero,

Glad that you’re doing better, I know we all miss you.

I have a favor to ask. Could you look at my crude drawing and let me know if the part circled in blue is correct? I’m wiring up 2 sim racing platforms (flight and motorcycle) to have tactile transducers. Each Aura Bass Pro is rated at 4 Ohms. Each platform will have 2 of the bass shakers. The receiever I’m using to drive the Auras is rated for 8 Ohms. I know I can safely run it at 12 Ohms, but I’ll be reducing the power too much and have to raise the volume to drive the shakers. Conversely, a 4 Ohm load would possibly cause overheating, and a 2 Ohm load will probably blow the amp in the AVR. I’m thinking that I should wire them in parallel rather than in series to achieve 8 Ohms. I’ll also be using either an 80 Hz low pass frequency modulator (FMod) or a 50 Hz LP FMod to prevent too much shaking during the wrong times. I only want it to shake over bumps, or during engine revving, bombs/machine guns, etc.

I’ll be using the speaker connectors from the shaker AVR (Audio/Video Receiver). I plan on this wiring configuration:
+ AVR speaker connector to +bass shaker 1.
Bass shaker 1 - to + bass shaker 2.
- bass shaker 2 back to - AVR speaker connector.
That should maintain it at 8 Ohms, correct? If so, I’ll do it the same way for sim platform number 2.

Thanks!


View attachment 755368 View attachment 755369
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I know it is more satisfactory to build your own thing, but there is a SNAIL discount code for this one.....

upload_2018-7-30_15-46-4.png
 
Thanks Rednose. I have that on my driving sim rig. It’s great with DiRT Rally. Is there a link and code to their website? If it’s cheap enough, I might get another one. I run it off my televisions headphone jack. Simple to wire it up that way. I have the remote wired to my button box so I can adjust the effect on the fly. I snagged my ButtKicker Gamer 2 used off of Amazon (complete with amp, shaker, remote, and rubber isolation bumpers) for only $29 a couple of years ago. I thought it was going to be a scam, but it was legit. Highly recommend it to you guys if you haven’t tried one.

The nice thing about the Aura’s and platforms is that’s it disperses the tactile effect to a greater area. I also have the Auras and the AVR amp just sitting around. The 4 Aura Pros were less than $200. I’m also using it in conjunction with two 250w subwoofers for additional sound and feel. I’m just waiting for the weather to cool down a little here in Austin so I can break out the welder and finish up the frame for the motorcycle sim rig. My garage gets stifling in this 100+ heat, and bare metal oxidizes really fast. I’ve already completed the flight rig, I’m just waiting for my 7 port 3.0 usb extender to come in so I can run the HOTAS joystick, rudder pedals and MFD button displays all from one source. Why Sony only put 2 USB ports on the PS4 is beyond me. At least I got the head tracking up and running. The PS4 camera sucked for that. The Rii mini i7 works great on War Thunder.
 
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Thanks XRad. So to be clear, the straight line formula for the final value is going to be “R” = 1/( (1/R1) + (1/R2) + 1/R3) + (1/R4)? Would wiring 4, 4 Ohm transducers in series result in an 8 Ohm load (I think it’ll end up being 16 Ohm)? Or run it one set of 2 in series, and one set of 2 in parallel to achieve 8 Ohms? They’ll be wired into either the left or right speaker connector. I’m just afraid of pushing the AVR at 2 or 4 Ohms, I’m sure it’ll overheat and/or blow (ask me how I know. Lol). At a minimum, I’ll be running 14g wire as 12g might be too thick to get in the binding posts.
 
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GUTTERBOY3007
Thanks XRad. So to be clear, the straight line formula for the final value is going to be “R” = 1/( (1/R1) + (1/R2) + 1/R3) + (1/R4)? Would wiring 4, 4 Ohm transducers in series result in an 8 Ohm load? Or run it one set of 2 in series, and one set of 2 in parallel to achieve 8 Ohms. They’ll be wired into the left or right speaker connector. At a minimum, I’ll be running 14g wire. 12g might be too thick to get in the binding posts.
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4, 4ohms will be 16 ohm load and limit the ability to achieve the desired power. Do the later setup.
 
Yes, I meant to write series, not parallel. On the dry erase board I ran out of room for a series/parallel drawing. Just jotting down random thoughts at the time trying to do the “math”. Lol. I’m just trying to prevent running two amps to power each set of two Auras. I’d rather just use the one since I can send audio via toslink/optical.
 
GUTTERBOY3007
Yes, I meant to write series, not parallel. On the dry erase board I ran out of room for a series/parallel drawing. Just jotting down random thoughts at the time trying to do the “math”. Lol. I’m just trying to prevent running two amps to power each set of two Auras. I’d rather just use the one since I can send audio via toslink/optical.
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Ok, sure. However when it comes to audio sources, both loads are going to act the same when I'm series. Is that ok for what you doing? Btw, it's time to race. Cya.
 
Rednose58
I know it is more satisfactory to build your own thing, but there is a SNAIL discount code for this one.....

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Hey that's really cool Reds. I've seen the Buttkicker name mentioned a couple times but didn't quite know what it was about. I just clicked on the link, read up on it and watched part of the vid to the point where he was using it with a racing sim, which is more what I was interested in. If I am to interpret what it does is besides adding audible bass to a room it also adds vibration to a rig or chair/seat right? Like being able to get some FFB to the seat rather than just from the steering wheel? I currently use one of them office like swivel chairs with a center pole stand so I was wondering if it would have been able to connect to that. I saw from the vid it could.

One thing I'm not sure about. I saw earlier on in the vid, besides the amplifier it comes with, he connected it to some type of fancy mixer. My question is does it have to connect to a mixer or you could it simply be connected with what comes in the package?

Also, how does it connect to a PS4 console? He was using a PC (at least up to the point I saw). It could connect to a PS4 console?

One more thing. If you just want to get the vibration without the extra base filling up the room and perhaps disturbing the neighbours, is this possible?....and if so how? I think he mentioned headphones but not sure how it would be connected or whatever.

This is something that has peeked my interest and I think I wouldn't mind getting one so any clarification or extension of would be appreciated.
 
Thanks again XRad. I’ll probably try and pick your brain again if that’s ok. I’ll pm you.

@David, think of the ButtKicker as a subwoofer without a speaker. Instead of sound, you get vibration from low frequency input. The Gamer 2 is meant to mount on the center pole of an office type chair (the clamp opens up, then you tighten it up. No need to modify your chair). I mounted mine to a deep well socket I put on the bottom of my Playseat Evolution. There’s no need for a “mixer” of any type. You run a cable from your PS4 to the amp, and the amp powers the ButtKicker. There’s actually a few ways you can wire it up. Mine is running thru the 3.5 mm headphone jack from my TV. The ButtKicker doesn’t make any real sound other than the piston vibrating. Your neighbors won’t hear any booming sounds like they would from a subwoofer.
 
@GUTTERBOY3007 .

Basically your sketch shows a series/parallel configuration. Two pair of series wired transducers - in parallel. :boggled:

Your sketch is what you should do with the transducers (bass shakers). When wired in series the resistance (ohms) is added together. When wired in parallel, speakers of equal impedance are divided by the number of speakers.

Whoops... Xrad beat me to the punch with Ohm's law.

I also don't quite understand connecting two receivers together. Couldn't one receiver drive the 2 subwoofers, and another drive the 4 shakers?
 
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GUTTERBOY3007
Thanks again XRad. I’ll probably try and pick your brain again if that’s ok. I’ll pm you.

@David, think of the ButtKicker as a subwoofer without a speaker. Instead of sound, you get vibration from low frequency input. The Gamer 2 is meant to mount on the center pole of an office type chair (the clamp opens up, then you tighten it up. No need to modify your chair). I mounted mine to a deep well socket I put on the bottom of my Playseat Evolution. There’s no need for a “mixer” of any type. You run a cable from your PS4 to the amp, and the amp powers the ButtKicker. There’s actually a few ways you can wire it up. Mine is running thru the 3.5 mm headphone jack from my TV. The ButtKicker doesn’t make any real sound other than the piston vibrating. Your neighbors won’t hear any booming sounds like they would from a subwoofer.
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Sweet. Thanks a lot.
How does it connect to the PS4 though? What kind of cables? Which port?
Maybe when you get a chance after race or tomorrow you could fill me in. Going to get ready for race now myself.
Really keen on getting this.
 
Damn! Tried to join up too late, must be full up.
Thanks for the invite anyway, Mike. Keep me on the list for next week, glad you got a full grid!
 
Thanks Gr8. So the way it’s diagramed, what do you calculate the Ohms at? And the reason I’m running dual AVRs is because the main AVR is running my home theater set up, so it has the same subs and ht speakers hooked up to it.

When you coming back to race with us? Is your back still messed up? If it is, I hope you can it fixed and start feeling better soon.
 
Well, I was only looking at the shakers circuit. 4+4=8 ohms in each series set. So there's 8 ohms of resistance split in half between the two pairs. Total resistance seen by the receiver is actually 4 ohms. (See 1st diagram and substitute 4 for the 8s).

Series wiring will increase your resistance. Parallel wiring will reduce it. Will the two subs also be powered by the same source? And how many ohms of resistance are the subs? You could possibly include one sub per series to bump up the overall resistance seen by the receiver.

I know explaining circuits in text is tough, even for me (I'm a journeyman electrician). Xrad did a fantastic job to be honest.

As for me racing, I'm still on the sidelines for a while. Sitting on the couch now - pillows behind my back, pillows under my legs on the ottoman, and taking several pain meds. Surgery is hopefully going to be my saving grace. Surgery IS going to happen eventually, but I need an EMG first. That's still three weeks away, and followup appointment with my surgeon another week after that. I've been very selective with my Doctors (neurosurgeon, neurologist, physiatrist, pain mgt.) Being fussy is taking it's toll on me as far as time is concerned. But I also feel having my spine cut into deserves some diligence. So it's going to be a couple more months at least. Thank God for medical and disability insurances.
 

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Thanks for the help Gr8. The subs are just receiving the low frequency signal from the AVR and are powered by their own internal plate amplifiers, so they're kind out of the equation. Not being an electrician and not taking science and math classes for nearly 40 years hasn't helped me either.

And I (literally) feel your pain. When I broke my back it took more than 5 years to finally get back to normal levels of activity without always being in pain. Then it was 2 more years of intermittent pain based on activity levels. They wanted to fuse my spine but I said no way, that is irreversible and can make matters worse in the long run. My wife hurt her back a couple of years ago and they were able to do the laser spine repair. She was up walking a little that first day, and had to take it easy for a couple of weeks. Within 6 weeks she was back to her usual level of activity. So you are smart to be selective on what you will have done. It will get better though. Hopefully I'll see you online and we can just BS.
 

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