◆ SNAIL [THE LOBANARO LOUNGE] No longer runningPS4 

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Happy birthday buddy!

One year closer to being a delusional BoB!
tenor.gif
 
Well guys, while I'm unfortunately going to miss a very cool Italian night at Monza, that should be the end of my absence. It's been a long couple months, but I'll be done with my "stuff" next week. Looking forward to rejoining the madness. Going to be very rusty!

Just now turned on the PS4 to load the update for PCars 2. :rolleyes:
 
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@sgohsixthree

Not only do you guys spell your name the same , but you have birthdays just over a week apart!

Happy Birthday Shaun :cheers:

We are just greatness, what can I say? Thanks!
Happy birthday buddy!

One year closer to being a delusional BoB!

Thanks dude!

Back to work next week, so I'll probably only make the first race on Monday. :crazy:
 
Any word from SGETI on how he's doing with the Nor'easter? My cousins in Quincy, MA said there was big time flooding during high-tide and a lot power outages. Here's hoping he and his are doing ok.
 
@sgohsixthree

Not only do you guys spell your name the same , but you have birthdays just over a week apart!

Happy Birthday Shaun :cheers:

View attachment 718854
One is just much faster than the other one! Happy birthday fast Shaun!

As you know, my mom was English. She chose my spelling as being the 'correct' English way, and AFAIK it is. I'm pretty sure Sean is Irish.

Bear said he wouldn't mind seeing some more pictures of flying here, so:

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It's always great coming home at sunset...


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Polihale State Park, on the north side of Kaua'i This is a huuuuge beach area, popular for camping and surfing in the winter, when the waves are big.


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Here I am my first week with the company. This is one of two C-90As we have - mostly the same as the B versions save for the three bladed prop and some weight limitations.


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Hanalei valley, Kaua'i.

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At Moloka'i airport. Moloka'i is very rural and unpopulated. It has only a few very small towns and not many hotels.

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Up in da ayer...


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Morning flight over to Honolulu....
 
Off topic question for the brain trust that is the Lobanaro Lounge. I know there’s a lot of experience here, so any advice on how to properly drill thru carbon fiber? It’s for the wing tips (winglets for you pilots) for the rear spoiler on my car. I’m getting conflicting info from the net. I’m thinking that to drill a small mounting screw hole I should (“A”) place masking tape on both sides to reduce possible fraying of the fibers. Then using a high speed drill place the winglet on a block of wood and drill straight thru and do it in one go. Or (“B”) slowly start drilling a little and then backing out, use compressed air to clean out the hole, then proceeding a little at a time.

Option “A” seems to make the most sense, but I was hoping for feedback because I only have one shot to get it right. Thanks!

D276A0D2-BF4E-4831-8FAE-752AF209D202.jpeg 352B0CAB-EAAA-4955-9261-EA35C3D2A205.jpeg EDE00E42-F13F-4BE3-BC15-79194282C02C.jpeg 3B83CF2F-EC81-47CE-8AC9-3DDF84576841.jpeg

***EDIT/UPDATE: Disregard request. I used a titanium bit at high speed with blue tape on each side of the drill site. Worked perfect.***
 
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Off topic question for the brain trust that is the Lobanaro Lounge. I know there’s a lot of experience here, so any advice on how to properly drill thru carbon fiber? It’s for the wing tips (winglets for you pilots) for the rear spoiler on my car. I’m getting conflicting info from the net. I’m thinking that to drill a small mounting screw hole I should (“A”) place masking tape on both sides to reduce possible fraying of the fibers. Then using a high speed drill place the winglet on a block of wood and drill straight thru and do it in one go. Or (“B”) slowly start drilling a little and then backing out, use compressed air to clean out the hole, then proceeding a little at a time.

Option “A” seems to make the most sense, but I was hoping for feedback because I only have one shot to get it right. Thanks!

View attachment 718922 View attachment 718919 View attachment 718920 View attachment 718921

***EDIT/UPDATE: Disregard request. I used a titanium bit at high speed with blue tape on each side of the drill site. Worked perfect.***

A: is the correct way!!
 
Any word from SGETI on how he's doing with the Nor'easter? My cousins in Quincy, MA said there was big time flooding during high-tide and a lot power outages. Here's hoping he and his are doing ok.

All is fine now, family is all ok. Power just came on an hour or so ago. Lost power friday afternoon. Tree's down all over the place. Wind gusts upto 80MPH. Shingles blown off the roofs. Now my verizon control box has s h i t the bed. No internet or TV. Using phone right now. Hopefully will be fixed for tmrw night racing.

shaun great pics :bowdown: Glad to see at least one of us is getting paid for something the love to do. That makes you the smartest guy in the room.
 
One is just much faster than the other one! Happy birthday fast Shaun!

As you know, my mom was English. She chose my spelling as being the 'correct' English way, and AFAIK it is. I'm pretty sure Sean is Irish.

Bear said he wouldn't mind seeing some more pictures of flying here, so:

Love the pics Shaun, and as this is Mike and mine's thread, and we are flyer's as well, (not at your level of course), you have permission to post as many flying and plane shots as you like!
I love the panel shot, you certified IFR Turbine guys have a lot going on in the panel. Is that a Garmin 530 with another GPS below, hard to tell as it's a bit blurry.
For years us experimental guys have had the latest technology at our fingertips for such low costs compared to the certified world. It is sooooooo expensive for certified instruments, the GTN650 in the pic below was required for IFR and it cost just under $10k ! The rest of the panel came to about that price! It is nice to see the certified worlds new stuff all in glass now. I still enjoy flying with an old basic steam gauge panel but a big glass panel sure is nice, the situational awareness is amazing.

Here is a few panels I have done with different glass display's, all have coupled AP's.

Dual Garmin G3X with cert GTN650 (this customer is military chopper pilot so plane is right seat PIC) Bearhawk
photo 1.JPG
IMG_0674.JPG


Advanced Avionics Screen (Bearhawk Patrol)

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MGL Avionics Odyssey (Van's RV7)
Odyssey.JPG


Great pics! It’s awesome that you get to live your dream AND make a living at it. We have so much in common! We both spend our days flying our plane around paradise. Of course there’s just a little difference in the way we experience it...lol

https://www.playstation.com/en-us/games/island-flight-simulator-ps4/

Never new that existed, will have to check it out.

Off topic question for the brain trust that is the Lobanaro Lounge. I know there’s a lot of experience here, so any advice on how to properly drill thru carbon fiber? It’s for the wing tips (winglets for you pilots) for the rear spoiler on my car. I’m getting conflicting info from the net. I’m thinking that to drill a small mounting screw hole I should (“A”) place masking tape on both sides to reduce possible fraying of the fibers. Then using a high speed drill place the winglet on a block of wood and drill straight thru and do it in one go. Or (“B”) slowly start drilling a little and then backing out, use compressed air to clean out the hole, then proceeding a little at a time.

Option “A” seems to make the most sense, but I was hoping for feedback because I only have one shot to get it right. Thanks!

***EDIT/UPDATE: Disregard request. I used a titanium bit at high speed with blue tape on each side of the drill site. Worked perfect.***

Another trick we have used in the machining world for years is called spading a drill bit. Don't bother googling it though as just the wood spade bits will come up. I'll post a pic of one. You basically grind the cutting flute flat so you have no forward rake, which stops any grabbing of material. It works really well for plastics, composites and soft materials such as copper.

All is fine now, family is all ok. Power just came on an hour or so ago. Lost power friday afternoon. Tree's down all over the place. Wind gusts upto 80MPH. Shingles blown off the roofs. Now my verizon control box has s h i t the bed. No internet or TV. Using phone right now. Hopefully will be fixed for tmrw night racing.

shaun great pics :bowdown: Glad to see at least one of us is getting paid for something the love to do. That makes you the smartest guy in the room.

Didn't realize you guys were getting hit with a storm, glad all is ok!
Hey, I love what I do, can I be the second smartest, :D
 
@Aero: Thanks for posting info on spading the drill bit. The way I did it worked out, but I’m always up for learning a new skill.

And I like that Bearhawk Patrol AA Screen. I was looking for options on a control panel layout for my flight sim rig, and the shape and layout of that is perfect. I can mount my iPad that I use for telemetry in the center, and then put one Thrustmaster MFD panel (button box) on each side. Plus it will give me space within reach to put some rotary dials and toggle switches. Right now my flight rig is fine, but I’m always looking to mod or update it.

Maybe people here could post pics of their sim rigs so we could all get ideas and inspiration which would be helpful. The email you sent me of your aluminum car rig and ideas for the motorcycle rig already got my wheels turning.

Only a couple of more days until IOM TT comes out. I know me, aero and CB are getting it, anyone else?

http://www.simnewsdaily.com/tt-isle-of-man-the-game-will-feature-a-multiplayer-mode/





And the new Porsche Pack info:

http://www.isrtv.com/project-cars-2...k-coming-next-week-part-porsche-legends-pack/
 
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All is fine now, family is all ok. Power just came on an hour or so ago. Lost power friday afternoon. Tree's down all over the place. Wind gusts upto 80MPH. Shingles blown off the roofs. Now my verizon control box has s h i t the bed. No internet or TV. Using phone right now. Hopefully will be fixed for tmrw night racing.

shaun great pics :bowdown: Glad to see at least one of us is getting paid for something the love to do. That makes you the smartest guy in the room.
I was in Detroit Thursday night where that storm originated. It was nasty. We got hit with seven inches of wet, heavy snow in about eight hours. Then the temp dropped and froze all the slushy, wet stuff into giant chucks of ice. The snow was so sticky, and it was blowing sideways and covering the street lights, which are now LED and don't create enough heat to melt. Intersections had to resort to 4-way stops because all the lights were white. In the morning my truck looked like I could brush the snow off, but it was crusted and glued. My door handles crunched when I opened them. Fortunately the temp got above freezing Friday and everything was gone by noon. But I saw the storm was moving east and getting worse. Hope everything gets back to normal soon for ya.
 
Masking tape in pattern of X ,
Sometimes I will drill with a smaller drill bit then go up to actual size of drill bit required ,

I've always used drill Brits for metal , on carbon,

Just make sure they are fairly new and sharpe
 
Love the pics Shaun, and as this is Mike and mine's thread, and we are flyer's as well, (not at your level of course), you have permission to post as many flying and plane shots as you like!
I love the panel shot, you certified IFR Turbine guys have a lot going on in the panel. Is that a Garmin 530 with another GPS below, hard to tell as it's a bit blurry.
For years us experimental guys have had the latest technology at our fingertips for such low costs compared to the certified world. It is sooooooo expensive for certified instruments, the GTN650 in the pic below was required for IFR and it cost just under $10k ! The rest of the panel came to about that price! It is nice to see the certified worlds new stuff all in glass now. I still enjoy flying with an old basic steam gauge panel but a big glass panel sure is nice, the situational awareness is amazing.

Here is a few panels I have done with different glass display's, all have coupled AP's.

Dual Garmin G3X with cert GTN650 (this customer is military chopper pilot so plane is right seat PIC) Bearhawk
View attachment 719055 View attachment 719057
It's a Garmin 430, this was taken just before we upgraded to GTN625s

Advanced Avionics Screen (Bearhawk Patrol)

View attachment 719061 View attachment 719059

MGL Avionics Odyssey (Van's RV7)
View attachment 719068



Never new that existed, will have to check it out.



Another trick we have used in the machining world for years is called spading a drill bit. Don't bother googling it though as just the wood spade bits will come up. I'll post a pic of one. You basically grind the cutting flute flat so you have no forward rake, which stops any grabbing of material. It works really well for plastics, composites and soft materials such as copper.



Didn't realize you guys were getting hit with a storm, glad all is ok!
Hey, I love what I do, can I be the second smartest, :D

It's a Garmin 430, but this was taken just before we upgraded to GTN625s. We also have Ipads with Foreflight linked to a Status satellite system. Which gives us a moving map, with weather and traffic, and synthetic vision if we want it. So great stuff. It's a far cry from my eight years of freight in twin Cessnas and Caravans with only steam gauges - no GPS or autopilot - in icy New Mexico. I didn't even have a handheld like some of my buddies, although I was familiar with the basics of the G430. Still, that was the biggest learning curve for me at this job - learning to use the automation.

I'm always happy to share some of the views I get, but often they don't come out great or I just don't have time.


@GUTTERBOY3007 - my 'rig' is a TV tray with a G29 on it and my Xrocker chair... you're making me feel that I need to get more serious....
That island flying sim looks pretty cool. It's always great when I get routed over some great scenery. One of my friends was telling me he knows a guy that has a A-10 sim - I looked it up and of course it's PC. There were quite a few combat sims I enjoyed in the 90s, but that A-10 blows 'em away.
 
Still a WIP, but I modeled it after my race car. The pedals, wheel, and shifter are in the exact spots as in my car. I even welded up the seat and wheel mount so that they replicated the same angle that my seat and wheel are in the car. It’s pretty damn close, and just as uncomfortable LOL
image.jpg
 
Still a WIP, but I modeled it after my race car. The pedals, wheel, and shifter are in the exact spots as in my car. I even welded up the seat and wheel mount so that they replicated the same angle that my seat and wheel are in the car. It’s pretty damn close, and just as uncomfortable LOL View attachment 719115
How do you reach the pedals though?
 
Mighty long legs.

BTW, I now notice is a G29 you have yes. I thought for sure you had one of them fancy Fanatec wheels for an alien like you.
 
@Aero: Thanks for posting info on spading the drill bit. The way I did it worked out, but I’m always up for learning a new skill.

Here's some pics of what I was talking about, easy to do but you just need to be good with a bench grinder. The whole trick is to flatten out the rake in the cutting edge. The problem with a standard sharp bit in soft materials and composites is that it will tend to grab and pull itself through the material, especially when breaking through, which will then give you a nasty burr or fracture the composite on that side of the hole. By grinding it flat, try not to go negative on the rake, you are basically scraping the material away and the bit will not grab. This technique works best when drilling plexiglass or other plastics, but works well on composites and soft metals like copper and brass.

Quick sketch shows reg drill on left, spayed on right.
IMG_1711.JPG


Standard drill has a 118 degree angle which you don't need to change.
IMG_1709.JPG


But I grind about a 135 to 140 degree angle and spayed it for plastics. It gets a bit trickier when changing the angle and takes some practice to get it right.
IMG_1710.JPG
 
Here's some pics of what I was talking about, easy to do but you just need to be good with a bench grinder. The whole trick is to flatten out the rake in the cutting edge. The problem with a standard sharp bit in soft materials and composites is that it will tend to grab and pull itself through the material, especially when breaking through, which will then give you a nasty burr or fracture the composite on that side of the hole. By grinding it flat, try not to go negative on the rake, you are basically scraping the material away and the bit will not grab. This technique works best when drilling plexiglass or other plastics, but works well on composites and soft metals like copper and brass.

Quick sketch shows reg drill on left, spayed on right.
View attachment 719318

Standard drill has a 118 degree angle which you don't need to change.
View attachment 719314

But I grind about a 135 to 140 degree angle and spayed it for plastics. It gets a bit trickier when changing the angle and takes some practice to get it right.
View attachment 719315

It's nice to see others with fab and machining skills out there. I design fire trucks and the lack of knowledge out there today is comical. Nice right up budy
 
It's nice to see others with fab and machining skills out there.
I'm just fortunate to have the skills and the tools/shop to make just about anything I want. I have been a Tool & DieMaker for 37 years now, but have been around the machine shop environment my entire life as my dad is also the same trade, he taught me so much.
If anyone ever has a question about fabricating something, please don't hesitate to ask, google doesn't always have the right answer!
 
I'm just fortunate to have the skills and the tools/shop to make just about anything I want. I have been a Tool & DieMaker for 37 years now, but have been around the machine shop environment my entire life as my dad is also the same trade, he taught me so much.
If anyone ever has a question about fabricating something, please don't hesitate to ask, google doesn't always have the right answer!

I worked as a metal fabricator and cnc machinest through colleage. My dad and I are building another treespade and what we call a 6 pack truck it's all his design
 

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@Aero: Thanks for taking the time to diagram and explain the concept and process. I’ve worked with plexiglass on some projects and always had the plastic slightly warp when drilling holes in it even when using a dremel tool at high speed. Fortunately the deformation was at the drill site and the mounting bolt or screw covered the raised rim around the drill hole. I’ll go to Harbor Frieght and pick up some cheap drill bits to practice this technique on.


***And just an FYI that the Island Flight game I added to an earlier post is junk in case you were interested. My daughter got it “for fun” and it seemed like a PS1 game or something you’d play on an iPad. War Thunder is still the best flight sim on the PS4 in my opinion.
 
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@Aero: Thanks for taking the time to diagram and explain the concept and process. I’ve worked with plexiglass on some projects and always had the plastic slightly warp when drilling holes in it even when using a dremel tool at high speed. Fortunately the deformation was at the drill site and the mounting bolt or screw covered the raised rim around the drill hole. I’ll go to Harbor Frieght and pick up some cheap drill bits to practice this technique on.


***And just an FYI that the Island Flight game I added to an earlier post is junk in case you were interested. My daughter got it “for fun” and it seemed like a PS1 game or something you’d play on an iPad. War Thunder is still the best flight sim on the PS4 in my opinion.
Always drill plastic, especially plexiglass/acrylic, fairly slow and with gentle pressure. If the hole you’re drilling is for a fastner then always make the hole 1/32in larger, it’s amazing how much some plastics will shrink and expand in different temps. Also make sure to deburr all holes and edges.
Make sure you use an Aluminum Oxide wheel for sharpening the drill bits.
 
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