450pp Street Car Tuners Club -- Nightly 9:45-12:00 EDT

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leadbedr
its wireless. Ive tried both and for some strange reason I get better speeds wireless.
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It's not necessarily the speed that you need to be concerned about, it's the reliability of the connection. You should try it wired and see if you have better results online. I'll bet you do.
 
esh
I had a good race with iforce @ Tsukuba until I changed my line on the the last turn to try to make a pass and put a tire on the grass. I was within a car length or two for the whole race and had the power to pass. Just didn't have the right opening to try it. We both ran pretty distinct lines and still were able to run fast. I think that actually helped me to gain some ground the last couple laps when I knew going into the 1st turn iforce would turn in much earlier so I didn't have to back off draft to make my late apex.
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Yeah that was a awesome race.I kept looking in the mirror and was shocked that i couldnt shake that ugly French car.I was able to get the gap up slightly after turning a 1:01.8 but gave it back 2 laps later with a 2.5.

I found that turn 1 line doing the Cappucino cup races.Diving to the apex early and taking a tight line seems like a blocking line in a race but its the fastest way thru that turn.


The Ruf @ Grand Valley was real challenge.The tail was wagging the dog in all the hairpins and it was a miracle i didnt end up doing donuts in the middle of the track.I had a chance to get the win but i got into the last L-R hairpin too hot and lost all my momentum.



450 PP tuners club running the same cars that cant be tuned :odd:
 
leadbedr
Should I do it from my pc or my ps3?

those first tests were from the browser on my ps3.
This is from my laptop.
http://www.speedtest.net/result/1401892947.png
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Those speeds are more than fine. Roughly 1.2MB/sec down and 200+KB/sec upstream. It's not so much bandwidth as it is latency and quality of connection. dslreports.com has a series of tests you can run (you may need to register) that can determine line speeds as well as quality over a longer time period to see if you're having issues.

http://www.dslreports.com/tools

A couple things you could yourself via the command prompt is "ping -t www.google.com" and "tracert www.google.com"

The first will ping Google until you stop it (ctrl+c). This will give you an idea of your latency, in relation to Google anyway. If you start seeing lost packets or returns greater than 100ms then you have an issue. One here or there is fine. The second command determines you path or route to one of Google's servers with respective pings to each node along the way. Some may not resolve and timeout, which is fine, but again, if you see excessive response times (>100ms) there is definitely an issue that you should address with your ISP.
 
esh
Those speeds are more than fine. Roughly 1.2MB/sec down and 200+KB/sec upstream. It's not so much bandwidth as it is latency and quality of connection. dslreports.com has a series of tests you can run (you may need to register) that can determine line speeds as well as quality over a longer time period to see if you're having issues.

http://www.dslreports.com/tools

A couple things you could yourself via the command prompt is "ping -t www.google.com" and "tracert www.google.com"

The first will ping Google until you stop it (ctrl+c). This will give you an idea of your latency, in relation to Google anyway. If you start seeing lost packets or returns greater than 100ms then you have an issue. One here or there is fine. The second command determines you path or route to one of Google's servers with respective pings to each node along the way. Some may not resolve and timeout, which is fine, but again, if you see excessive response times (>100ms) there is definitely an issue that you should address with your ISP.
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tracer from google was 35-40ms with one time out
pinging google was 30-35ms

Does using a static IP make that much of a difference?
I used to use a static when I was downloading a lot of torrents, but I got a new laptop using win 7 and it gets great speeds on torrents so I never changed it.
 
I'm going too try to get on when the room opens, but I may be a little late.
 
leadbedr
Does using a static IP make that much of a difference?
I used to use a static when I was downloading a lot of torrents, but I got a new laptop using win 7 and it gets great speeds on torrents so I never changed it.
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You shouldn't see any difference between a static or dynamic IP address; an IP address is an IP address, it doesn't matter who assigns it. Even with a DHCP assigned address, the computer (or whatever) is going to keep the same IP address for the whole time it's on, even if that time is longer than the IP lease that it gets.

I'm taking it for granted that you're talking about setting a static IP on your internal network, not a static IP for your internet connection, right?
 
chuyler1
Well WiiFreak had no trouble beating me in it... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3aJ3Rrnngk

It looked pretty quick in a straight line on the video. It took him a lap to close the gap but I was running some pretty fast laps I thought.
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I don't imagine it was a problem with the car, just that particular tune. I got it off of the forum. I really can't tune a car myself.
 
chuyler1
I saw a pulsar when I was searching...didn't add it though because there wasn't a photo.

Pontiac is missing, but you'll get the feel of the Firebird by just driving one of the Camaros.

I'm really surprised there are no Saabs. If we've got the Volvo 240 estate wagon, why not an 80's 900 or a 90's 9000?

I know modeling these cars takes time...but sometimes I'm scratching my head as to why they bothered to spend time on so many useless Keicars when they could have been modeling cars we'd actually enjoy driving.

I'm not asking for a Chrysler K-Car, Ford Fiesta, or Geo Metro (the equivelent to Keicars in the U.S.). I'm asking for genuine sports cars. The 80's Mustang 5.0 is iconic. Why put the IROC in the game with out the T-Bird? Why not push harder for Porsche licensing? Ok, the El Camino was a joke...but still it would be fun to drive.
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Chuyler1,

Hey can you add me as a friend? It still continues to say that you have reached the maximum when i try to add you. I am really down to race tonight and will be a regular if i can actually get into a lobby/lounge.
 
Send me a psn message, not a friend req. I'll add you when i login.
 
polizei
I hate when im looking for a decent tune, think i found one and then read: "Ride Height -70/-70
springs MAX/MAX"

:yuck:





Yeah, i don't get it either. BMW is great and they have sooo many cool old race cars. I would rather have a focus on vintage race cars over vintage turds.




Give us more cars so we can recreate these scenes:
Vintage+race+crash+Large+1121732403.jpg
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Looks like the first turn on daytona on muscle car mondays.
 
Got to poop then I'll be in room.
 
I was just on...but then my internet died or something. rebooting the playstation. meet in my lobby and i'll join as soon as I get it back up.
 
good time racing with everyone tonight. definitely getting better but still having issues controlling oversteer with the DFGT. Anyone got any pointers on correcting oversteer without making it turn into snap oversteer?
 
leadbedr
its wireless. Ive tried both and for some strange reason I get better speeds wireless.
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dabneyd
It's not necessarily the speed that you need to be concerned about, it's the reliability of the connection. You should try it wired and see if you have better results online. I'll bet you do.
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whats your NAT type? Mine was Type 2 when i tried wireless before with N but half of the cars in the grid are "invinsible" so i revert back to a wired connection with NAT type 1 and never had any problems racing online unless the host is laggy. 👍

Also Belkin Wifi routers seems to have problem sticking to NAT types, they cycle back from 2-3 so check your settings. Im planning to change mine to a Linksys as currently i cant connect to Steam even if i have a excellent wifi connection. Tried their Tech support but to no avail.
 
The room was all effed up last night. I don't know if it was because of new drivers or me not hosting but every race there was an issue. I'm tempted to go back to a public lobby to see if it helps.

BTW, I run a linksys wireless router. NAT type is usually 2. My wifi is very stable. We watch Netflix in HD over it which is probably 10 times the bandwidth required for GT5. My ping is pretty decent too.


Quick review of the racing for those that missed...

Autumn Ring -- Mazda RX7
The Mazda was fun to drive once I put the sport soft tires on it. I lost control in one turn early in the race and had to fight from mid-pack. I think I got around Twichie and Esh.

GVE-R -- BMW
This car was fun too, and had tons of grip. It was higher pp than our typical 450 cars so I had to adjust my braking point to turn 1...but other than that it was smooth and fast. I think I pulled a 5 second gap on the next car back, but we were running reverse grid so it may have taken some of the other drivers longer to get to the front.

Tsukuba -- Tesla Roadster
This was like a test for drivers who rely on the shift indicator. No shifting meant no warning as to when you needed to brake. I started at the back and made it mid-pack after about a lap watching cars fly off the track left and right. I had a good battle going with Bowtie but then he stopped to race with Twichie so I won the race by like 10 seconds.

Laguna Seca -- 2010 Camaro
Another great combination. The Camaro went through rear tires fast which introduced oversteer slowly over the course of 5 laps. On the first lap of the race I think i was getting lag because my car wouldn't turn. I was following mbenz into turn 1 and he was getting twice the grip. Turn 2 I followed a few cars that got around me and went right into the sand pit. After that, things returned to normal and I fought back. On the final lap I tried to power through Rainey curve and spun out giving up my position to Twichie. Then with dirt on my tires I overshot the final turn and gave up another position to Bowtie.

Rome Reverse -- Austin Martin
Had a good battle with Bowtie. Then he backed off a little to see if i would make a mistake. I tapped the wall in the kink ever so slightly and that allowed him to catch back up. On the final lap he had plans to draft pass me but he hesitated through the final turn and didn't get enough draft to get er done.

Monaco -- Zonda
What a fiasco. Even with racing soft tires this car is a handful. I won only because my accident was early on. I think I may have pushed dabney off his line at one point (I'm sorry if I did). I chased down Bowtie at one point but he slowed to wait for me and then couldn't keep up when I passed him.

Nurb GP/F -- Zonda
Another challenge. I raced with considerable restraint and was able to catch everyone on the track and pass them. Bowtie was busy doing donuts so i never got to race with him. the key is to take your time in the turns and ease into the throttle until you're out of 3rd gear.


I'm not quite sure why there aren't that many vehicles to choose from when you do same-make. We pretty much ran every RWD car available.
 
chuyler1
We're actually trading the Nitro in this week for a 2012 Focus hatchback. Thought about going Japanese but the Mazda3 was too expensive and the grinning grill is hideous.
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You are aware that Focus and the Mazda 3 are built on the same platform, right ?
 
Not this year. The 2012 Mazda3 is still being built on the old C1 platform. The new 2012 Focus is the first vehicle (I believe) on the new C-platform. Platform has very little to do with reliability though. The cars have always had different drivetrains and obviously have different interior trimmings. I am usually wary of first-model-year cars but with the warranty we should be ok.

...but if the Mazda3 got the same gas mileage and didn't look so ugly, I probably would have paid a little more for it.
 
If the VIN doesn't start with a J, I don't want it.

Toyota Corolla SR5 Liftback '78
Toyota Camry LE 5-Door '83
Subaru Impreza Outback Sport '97
Scion xB '08

I would like for them to be in the game. But that is my car history. All built in Japan, put on a boat, and shipped to the states. I've been so happy with them all (save the transmission housing and front end on the Camry, but that was their first FF Camry, and I got it third hand, the first two owners driving on gravel quite a bit), that I will keep buying Japanese for as long as I can.

That gets harder and harder to do.
 
For me...

Purchased by my father...who has no idea how to buy a used car...
84 Mazda 323 Sedan (mostly driven by my sister, not sure what happened to it)
83 Plymouth Reliant Wagon (shared with my sis until she blew the engine)
83 Chrysler E-class, aka budget New Yorker (shared with my sis until i blew the engine)
87 Cougar V6 (my first non-shared car until the head gasket went at 140k)
90 Grand Marquis (leaked oil but drove like a luxury liner, eventually had electrical problems)

The cougar was the best of the bunch, purchased from my cousin. It never had much power but I loved it.

Purchased by me...
2003 Mazda Protege5 (never had a problem)
2006 Mazdaspeed6 (no problems yet)

Purchased by my wife...
1987 Chevy Celebrity Wagon
2000 Corolla (would have run for ever)
2001 Jeep Wrangler (her 1/4 life crisis)
2008 Dodge Nitro (her "i'm sick of the soft top" replacement)
2012 Focus (her "i'm sick of domestic" replacement)
 
rperez915
good time racing with everyone tonight. definitely getting better but still having issues controlling oversteer with the DFGT. Anyone got any pointers on correcting oversteer without making it turn into snap oversteer?
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Use less steering input and more throttle input in all your turns. As the car begins to oversteer, you will feel the wheel lighten up. Lightly pull the wheel in the opposite direction to countersteer. Don't go more than 10 degrees beyond your intended direction of travel. Don't ever lift off the throttle once you start oversteering. In fact, sometimes you want to apply more throttle to shift the weight rearward and plant the rear end. if you must lift off the throttle, do so very gently while you countersteer. Fight the wheel the entire time by turning it against the pressure. Once you feel the pressure release in a certain direction don't let it continue, switch to the other direction or straighten the wheel out.

The Camaro with worn tires was quite a challenge. The corkscrew was dangerous. In some cars you can dive right in but you had to keep all 4 wheels off the right side rumble strips to avoid crashing down on the pavement and sending the car into a spin. Nothing you can do there except massive countersteer and hope it comes back around.

Rainey curve after the corkscrew was a little more manageable but still a bit scary. I trailed the brake until I saw an easy line through the late apex. Then I eased into the throttle. Worked great until the last lap where I tried to squeeze more time out of the turn and ended up spinning into the gravel.
 
So remember when I hosted and everything was really laggy? Guess what our new connection is at our new house? 1.5mb down/512k up.

So...it was fun, but I guess this is goodbye.

Hopefully comcast has some better speeds because that is stupid.
 
shift indicator
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There's a shift indicator?

Edit. nevermind lol never paid attention....that thing is probably useless like in gt4...
laguna seca corksrew....release the steering at the deepest part... it's gonna stick like a 4wd.
 
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it's bloody obvious in bumper cam. If you're in 5th approaching a hard braking zone it'll flash "3" in red. A few flashes later is when you generally hit the brakes. it never tells you to downshift at the right time...but it can be used to time your braking points instead of using visual cues. There are a few places I use it (like Daytona Road Course) but I always see it out of the corner of my eye.
 
I use it to time my braking point but not to be on the gear they tell me:tup:....the numbers all look alike with an old tv (blurry) :) LOL
 
Exactly...but with an electric vehicle, it will never flash, therefore you have to use visual cues to brake. Made things interesting at Tsukuba in the Tesla!

I don't think i would have been able to race the Tesla at Nurburgring on the fly like that. i rely to heavily on that indicator on some turns to determine when to brake. I have never used it to know what gear to be in. For example, it'll tell you to shift down to 1st gear on the final turn of Laguna Seca, but if you take the turn right, you should stay in 2nd in most cars.
 
The Tesla would've been particularly bad at Laguna Seca (and a few others) where the distance markers are destructible terrain.
 
"Ride Height -70/-70
springs MAX/MAX"
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I saw one similar with toe settings like this F -0.84 R -0.84 :scared: There was a note: (the car oversteer a little).This is a grip tune by the way.👍
 
Yes! I hate it when people run over the markers at Laguna Seca. It's so easy to overshoot the first corner when that happens. Although I'll have to try the shifting indicator as a braking point. It may help.
 
I'm not a fan of exploiting parts of the track that shouldn't be used in normal racing.

I've seen bowtie intentionally run over every single marker at laguna, driving beyond the outside white line in turn 1. I've also watched him go wide after the 2nd turn at Nurb GP/F. He claims he's not gaining any positions by doing it...but what is so difficult about racing the track the way it was intended?
 
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