Assetto corsa coming to PS4 and Xbox one

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SlipZtrEm
Sony/MS may be to blame for the wait on patches between consoles and PC (though not really; Kunos can just as easily schedule based on that, much like other developers do), but they're certainly not to blame for poor design decisions like the barely-there online mode.
Click to expand...

Or the hilariously early access-feeling career mode, or the fact that most of the options have been removed for the console version.
 
Or not all of the DLC being released yet. Bad Kunos bad!

PS. Saw someone quoting Marco on the AC forum, saying they were working on private lobbies at the moment. Appeared in either a tweet or FB, but the guy didn't link it.
 
@Nielsen Ugh..You're gonna kill me. I forgot that I disabled almost all of my 3rd party apps, so I only had the Kunos tire app available which doesn't give a numeric wear percentage - there is a color indicator that drops and changes color. Green good ---> all the way down to Red bad! But I would have to say that my tires would have been at 0% wear or maybe 0% wear in the back and 1% in the front. Oh, I did two laps and I forgot to put the surface onto Optimum 100%, I had it on Fast 99%, that probably has no effect on this. My 2nd lap was faster than my 1st lap by 4-5 seconds - 8:01.444 2nd lap time (if anyone laughs at my lap time I will punch you in the testicles :D). I only put the lap time to give you an idea of how hard I was pushing it and to be honest, this is pretty much me at the limit in that car with completely stock setup. I messed up in a couple of areas badly...I definitely lot a few seconds because of the two mistakes. Anyway, You'll see I had 7% grain on both front tires, 2% grain on both rears. 0% blistering all-around.

fMDy1wt.png


Now, I discovered that PC players -- at least, not on my system -- we can't just pull into the pit area and pull into a rectangle to adjust settings in Hotlap Mode. I didn't try Practice though...I will. The rectangle doesn't even show up like it does when I'm racing. I discovered this on a different track as on the Nordschleife I would have had to do another 8 minute lap to get to the pit entrance.

So, after that second lap, I pulled over right before that first left-hander on the Green Hell. I parked for a couple of seconds and cursed myself for not breaking 8 minutes and I had to do the ESC key - Go To Pits. That's where I took the screen shot you can see.

I then hit the icon to let me drive again and pulled out of the pits. I went around that first left-hand turn and came to a stop before I even got to the next right-hander. I came to a stop, hit ESC, and selected Go To Pits. When I did my tires were all 0%/0% -- brand new.

So, that definitely leads me to believe that this is yet one more bug plaguing the console version. I had a very strong feeling it was the second you told me, but I wanted to double-check just to make sure. I can't remember if I mentioned this was 100% stock setup too.

I don't know if you're into doing races against the AI. But if you don't mind... Select a smaller track. Run a handful of laps, and go back to the pits so you can see your setup info like in my screenshot. Take a note of graining % / blistering % and wear %... I'm pretty sure you don't have to get new tires, but you could try it with getting new ones and then pull over after a couple of corners, like you did to start this conversation and get back to the pits/setup screen to see if you're getting stupid data again. I'm just curious if this is a problem that is restricted to Practice/Hotlapping or if it also plagues console players in Race Mode too.

I'm sure we can all agree that you don't want to be putting on a fresh set of tires during a race, pull out of the pits and be starting on tires with 10% graining (I think yours were at 10%, if I remember correctly). I'll still run the Ferrari FXX K later today - just for the heck of it - I'm sure the results will be the same. But it sure seems like Bug #637 for the Console Version. :grumpy:

EDIT: Just so you don't feel all alone in tires not being exactly perfect. I'm sure we'd all agree that I probably had 7% graining from understeering like a punk... I know.... I know... Anyway, through two entire laps on Nordschleife my front tires never got into the Green (temp). They stayed Blue. That means I never got them into "optimal operating temperature". Now, some people could counter and say "Well, add camber..." and maybe that's true, but I should be able to run the stock alignment and get optimal operating temperature, even if it takes me an entire lap. And since I probably was understeering a bit, even though I showed no blistering, you'd think those understeers might throw a little more heat into the tires. But, I never even saw them turning blueish-green. :grumpy: I'm going to try again but drop the front tire Air Pressure by 2 PSI. I noticed the front tires are 2 PSI higher than the rears in the default setup. Maybe that'll help... ::shrug::

If you'd like me to try anything else -- just ask... 👍

EDIT 2: Dropping 2 PSI in the fronts put me into Green operating temp by Aremberg. That's good to know.
 
Last edited:
ALB123
@Nielsen Ugh..You're gonna kill me. I forgot that I disabled almost all of my 3rd party apps, so I only had the Kunos tire app available which doesn't give a numeric wear percentage - there is a color indicator that drops and changes color. Green good ---> all the way down to Red bad! But I would have to say that my tires would have been at 0% wear or maybe 0% wear in the back and 1% in the front. Oh, I did two laps and I forgot to put the surface onto Optimum 100%, I had it on Fast 99%, that probably has no effect on this. My 2nd lap was faster than my 1st lap by 4-5 seconds - 8:01.444 2nd lap time (if anyone laughs at my lap time I will punch you in the testicles :D). I only put the lap time to give you an idea of how hard I was pushing it and to be honest, this is pretty much me at the limit in that car with completely stock setup. I messed up in a couple of areas badly...I definitely lot a few seconds because of the two mistakes. Anyway, You'll see I had 7% grain on both front tires, 2% grain on both rears. 0% blistering all-around.

fMDy1wt.png


Now, I discovered that PC players -- at least, not on my system -- we can't just pull into the pit area and pull into a rectangle to adjust settings in Hotlap Mode. I didn't try Practice though...I will. The rectangle doesn't even show up like it does when I'm racing. I discovered this on a different track as on the Nordschleife I would have had to do another 8 minute lap to get to the pit entrance.

So, after that second lap, I pulled over right before that first left-hander on the Green Hell. I parked for a couple of seconds and cursed myself for not breaking 8 minutes and I had to do the ESC key - Go To Pits. That's where I took the screen shot you can see.

I then hit the icon to let me drive again and pulled out of the pits. I went around that first left-hand turn and came to a stop before I even got to the next right-hander. I came to a stop, hit ESC, and selected Go To Pits. When I did my tires were all 0%/0% -- brand new.

So, that definitely leads me to believe that this is yet one more bug plaguing the console version. I had a very strong feeling it was the second you told me, but I wanted to double-check just to make sure. I can't remember if I mentioned this was 100% stock setup too.

I don't know if you're into doing races against the AI. But if you don't mind... Select a smaller track. Run a handful of laps, and go back to the pits so you can see your setup info like in my screenshot. Take a note of graining % / blistering % and wear %... I'm pretty sure you don't have to get new tires, but you could try it with getting new ones and then pull over after a couple of corners, like you did to start this conversation and get back to the pits/setup screen to see if you're getting stupid data again. I'm just curious if this is a problem that is restricted to Practice/Hotlapping or if it also plagues console players in Race Mode too.

I'm sure we can all agree that you don't want to be putting on a fresh set of tires during a race, pull out of the pits and be starting on tires with 10% graining (I think yours were at 10%, if I remember correctly). I'll still run the Ferrari FXX K later today - just for the heck of it - I'm sure the results will be the same. But it sure seems like Bug #637 for the Console Version. :grumpy:

EDIT: Just so you don't feel all alone in tires not being exactly perfect. I'm sure we'd all agree that I probably had 7% graining from understeering like a punk... I know.... I know... Anyway, through two entire laps on Nordschleife my front tires never got into the Green (temp). They stayed Blue. That means I never got them into "optimal operating temperature". Now, some people could counter and say "Well, add camber..." and maybe that's true, but I should be able to run the stock alignment and get optimal operating temperature, even if it takes me an entire lap. And since I probably was understeering a bit, even though I showed no blistering, you'd think those understeers might throw a little more heat into the tires. But, I never even saw them turning blueish-green. :grumpy: I'm going to try again but drop the front tire Air Pressure by 2 PSI. I noticed the front tires are 2 PSI higher than the rears in the default setup. Maybe that'll help... ::shrug::

If you'd like me to try anything else -- just ask... 👍
Click to expand...

Try drop front only by 4-6 psi, and watch the temp rises quicker. Have you ever tried running lowest tire pressure to intentionally wear the tire quicker and see if the temp react accordingly ( more heat ) ?

Is there an app on PC which allows you to see real time suspension geometry readings like camber/toe and tire pressure + inner,middle,outside tire temp while driving ? If tire wear also can be viewed in real time, these will be very valuable.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
Try drop front only by 4-6 psi, and watch the temp rises quicker. Have you ever tried running lowest tire pressure to intentionally wear the tire quicker and see if the temp react accordingly ( more heat ) ?

Is there an app on PC which allows you to see real time suspension geometry readings like camber/toe and tire pressure + inner,middle,outside tire temp while driving ? If tire wear also can be viewed in real time, these will be very valuable.
Click to expand...
I must have made my 2nd edit while you were typing. Even a 2 PSI drop on the fronts had them in optimal operating temp at a respectable point. I never use Tire Blankets.

Oh, yes...The "basic" tire app I have on my screen shows Tire Temp for O/M/I surface temps, Core Temp, Real Time Air Pressure and Wear. If I need any more information I can pull up the developer telemetry app which gives more data per tire than I can even understand. Things like real-time values for each individual tire where appropriate: camber, Damper Velocity, Suspension Travel, Slip Angles, Brake Disc Temps, Engine RPM, Clutch Torque, Ride Height Front & Rear, Load per tire, and a ton more that just make my head spin.
 
mister dog
Or not all of the DLC being released yet. Bad Kunos bad!

PS. Saw someone quoting Marco on the AC forum, saying they were working on private lobbies at the moment. Appeared in either a tweet or FB, but the guy didn't link it.
Click to expand...
Found it and replied to it. If I get a weird I'll let you guys know.
 
ALB123
EDIT: Just so you don't feel all alone in tires not being exactly perfect. I'm sure we'd all agree that I probably had 7% graining from understeering like a punk... I know.... I know... Anyway, through two entire laps on Nordschleife my front tires never got into the Green (temp). They stayed Blue. That means I never got them into "optimal operating temperature". Now, some people could counter and say "Well, add camber..." and maybe that's true, but I should be able to run the stock alignment and get optimal operating temperature, even if it takes me an entire lap. And since I probably was understeering a bit, even though I showed no blistering, you'd think those understeers might throw a little more heat into the tires. But, I never even saw them turning blueish-green. :grumpy: I'm going to try again but drop the front tire Air Pressure by 2 PSI. I noticed the front tires are 2 PSI higher than the rears in the default setup. Maybe that'll help... ::shrug::

If you'd like me to try anything else -- just ask... 👍

EDIT 2: Dropping 2 PSI in the fronts put me into Green operating temp by Aremberg. That's good to know.
Click to expand...

That's good to know. I rarely get my tires in the green on any car, except for cars with V10 tires which go green fairly easily (I even saw one go red recently). So dropping PSI a bit might help get temps up?
 
BrandonW77
That's good to know. I rarely get my tires in the green on any car, except for cars with V10 tires which go green fairly easily (I even saw one go red recently). So dropping PSI a bit might help get temps up?
Click to expand...
A change of a couple of degrees isn't going to make much, if any, difference in grip. I think the colour changes are simply a threshold thing. The amount of grip available with a couple of degrees change in temperature is negligible but that change might cross you over the threshold from one colour to another.
 
Johnnypenso
I think the colour changes are simply a threshold thing. The amount of grip available with a couple of degrees change in temperature is negligible but that change might cross you over the threshold from one colour to another.
Click to expand...

I also look at the temps and it's very rare to see my tires go above 70º (on non-v10 tires). From what I've read most tires prefer to be closer to 80º or higher and I can rarely achieve that, usually they're around 65-70º and dark blue.
 
BrandonW77
I also look at the temps and it's very rare to see my tires go above 70º (on non-v10 tires). From what I've read most tires prefer to be closer to 80º or higher and I can rarely achieve that, usually they're around 65-70º and dark blue.
Click to expand...
Same here, but changing the pressure by a couple of pounds isn't very effective on the older versions of the tires, so if they do change colour as a result it's likely just crossing a threshold.
 
Johnnypenso
Same here, but changing the pressure by a couple of pounds isn't very effective on the older versions of the tires, so if they do change colour as a result it's likely just crossing a threshold.
Click to expand...

Well, I'd like to be able to get them to cross that 80º threshold. :indiff: When I have tire blankets on the car feels great for the first lap, after that it's kinda like driving on ice.

But....this is not the thread to discuss this topic.
 
KRATOS8MS
Great...thanks
Click to expand...
these are my current settings, I have a few others you can try if these are no good for you. GT3 cars are thr biggest problem I've encountered with the 1.03 settings.

Speed sensitivity 80.

speed steering 100.

Deadzone makes no diff.

Steering filter 0.

Steering Gamma 2.2.

Hope they work for you.
 
lancia delta hf
these are my current settings, I have a few others you can try if these are no good for you. GT3 cars are thr biggest problem I've encountered with the 1.03 settings.

Speed sensitivity 80.

speed steering 100.

Deadzone makes no diff.

Steering filter 0.

Steering Gamma 2.2.

Hope they work for you.
Click to expand...

Thank you!!! I will give it a dry.
 
KRATOS8MS
Can you please post these others settings that i can test which one is best for me?
Thanks a lot lancia delta hf
Click to expand...

Hi! I'm also on PS4,but give a try on this settings...when i can't use my wheel i use this settings and they work great with all the cars :

Controller settings with update 1.03 AC PS4

Vibration: 85
Speed sensitivity :25
Steering speed: 100
Deadzone:1
Filter:0
Gamma 2.8

In video setting i got visual steering wheel at 360 degrees.
 
Donnced
HI guy's!

Something strange happend with the public online servers, they have trimmed them a lot and now there's only around 10 lobbies available.

View attachment 600950

Someone more see only around 10 lobbies available now in online??

Did report it also in the official support forum..

http://www.assettocorsa.net/forum/index.php?threads/what-happened-with-public-online-servers.38120/
Click to expand...
Just a guess but it looks like they trimmed things down to meet the level of demand. If few people online it doesn't make sense to support dozens of empty servers.
 
Johnnypenso
Just a guess but it looks like they trimmed things down to meet the level of demand. If few people online it doesn't make sense to support dozens of empty servers.
Click to expand...

Could be Johnny, but if it's the case it's sad, because for the moment they have left only one lobby with GT3 on nurburgring..

And mostly lobbies on imola with different cars..

Let's see if other people reply the same problem
 
Donnced
Hi! I'm also on PS4,but give a try on this settings...when i can't use my wheel i use this settings and they work great with all the cars :

Controller settings with update 1.03 AC PS4

Vibration: 85
Speed sensitivity :25
Steering speed: 100
Deadzone:1
Filter:0
Gamma 2.8

In video setting i got visual steering wheel at 360 degrees.
Click to expand...

Thank you!!!
 
I made an interesting discovery the other day. Some of you may have already worked this out, but for those who haven't, this might be useful information.

I've noticed in AC that some cars have horrendous snap oversteer under brakes, like an unrealistic amount, not just lift-off oversteer. The first few days that I played it I didn't care too much, because I wasn't messing about with setups much, I was just trying out different cars to see how they felt mostly.

However, the other day I was messing about with setting some cars up for different tracks, and just generally finding how dramatic a difference I could make to the cars' behaviour with setup changes. One combination I tried was the Lotus 25 at Brands Hatch. The 25 here had a shocking tendency to snap into oversteer in the braking zones, and even after adjusting the setup the car was still doing the same thing. I noticed that the setup changes I'd made had affected the car's attitude in a predictable way in everything but braking, where it still exhibited the exact same violent snap oversteer. I even tried going extreme with the setup to see what effect that would have: The car was an understeering lump with this setup (as it should have been), but still under braking, even in a straight line, the car would snap into oversteer suddenly.

I was scratching my head for a moment over this, because it didn't feel right. The way it was behaving wasn't realistic to begin with, but the way the setup changes had affected the car in a predictable and realistic way in all other conditions, but the car still had this reaction when I was braking for a corner. I went back to a good setup, and just ran lap after lap, adjusting my driving to see what was causing it. I don't know how I'd missed it before, but the sudden snapping was happening on downshifts, specifically when the shift had been completed. Now because I don't have a shifter, so I have to use the paddles, I use auto clutch and auto blip. After noticing it wasn't actually the braking itself, but the downshifting that was causing the issue, I noticed the throttle blip on downshifts was very small, even when braking hard into a corner and shifting right on the threshold, the blip was the same as it was when downshifting when coasting. It didn't seem to be giving it enough throttle between shifts.

So I quit the session, and went back into it, this time turning off auto clutch and auto blip. I ran a couple of laps to get used to the clutch (using a clutch with paddles feels so foreign to me, hence why I don't normally do it lol). Once I had a feel for it, I tried doing a fast lap and downshifting without rev matching, and the back-end snapped hard, just like with the auto clutch and auto blip turned on. So after doing this a few times to make sure it was definitely the cause of this behaviour, I started rev matching manually on downshifts, and this solved the problem completely.

Since I'm comfortable with hell-toe downshifts in real cars (been doing it since I was a kid), the rev matching in game was an automatic reflex. I could match the revs perfectly with every downshift. But interestingly, the amount I would blip the throttle without even thinking about it was a lot more than the game's auto blip, which barely touched the throttle on downshifts. I've since noticed that in many cars the auto blip is enough to keep the car in check, but some, like the 25, the auto blip is just way off, and it's causing a compression lockup when you're downshifting at the threshold on corner entry.

You can avoid it by braking longer before you downshift, and keeping the shifts low in the rev range, but this will lose you a lot of potential lap time. I've noticed that you can manually blip the throttle even when auto clutch and auto blip are turned on, so you can keep them both on, and just manually blip the throttle to match the revs on aggressive downshifts, and it eliminates this nasty snap oversteer a bunch of cars have.

Anyway, sorry about the long winded explanation, I'm not even sure if I worded it all as well as I could have lol, but I hope that helps some people.
 
Mike_grpA
I made an interesting discovery the other day. Some of you may have already worked this out, but for those who haven't, this might be useful information.

I've noticed in AC that some cars have horrendous snap oversteer under brakes, like an unrealistic amount, not just lift-off oversteer. The first few days that I played it I didn't care too much, because I wasn't messing about with setups much, I was just trying out different cars to see how they felt mostly.

However, the other day I was messing about with setting some cars up for different tracks, and just generally finding how dramatic a difference I could make to the cars' behaviour with setup changes. One combination I tried was the Lotus 25 at Brands Hatch. The 25 here had a shocking tendency to snap into oversteer in the braking zones, and even after adjusting the setup the car was still doing the same thing. I noticed that the setup changes I'd made had affected the car's attitude in a predictable way in everything but braking, where it still exhibited the exact same violent snap oversteer. I even tried going extreme with the setup to see what effect that would have: The car was an understeering lump with this setup (as it should have been), but still under braking, even in a straight line, the car would snap into oversteer suddenly.

I was scratching my head for a moment over this, because it didn't feel right. The way it was behaving wasn't realistic to begin with, but the way the setup changes had affected the car in a predictable and realistic way in all other conditions, but the car still had this reaction when I was braking for a corner. I went back to a good setup, and just ran lap after lap, adjusting my driving to see what was causing it. I don't know how I'd missed it before, but the sudden snapping was happening on downshifts, specifically when the shift had been completed. Now because I don't have a shifter, so I have to use the paddles, I use auto clutch and auto blip. After noticing it wasn't actually the braking itself, but the downshifting that was causing the issue, I noticed the throttle blip on downshifts was very small, even when braking hard into a corner and shifting right on the threshold, the blip was the same as it was when downshifting when coasting. It didn't seem to be giving it enough throttle between shifts.

So I quit the session, and went back into it, this time turning off auto clutch and auto blip. I ran a couple of laps to get used to the clutch (using a clutch with paddles feels so foreign to me, hence why I don't normally do it lol). Once I had a feel for it, I tried doing a fast lap and downshifting without rev matching, and the back-end snapped hard, just like with the auto clutch and auto blip turned on. So after doing this a few times to make sure it was definitely the cause of this behaviour, I started rev matching manually on downshifts, and this solved the problem completely.

Since I'm comfortable with hell-toe downshifts in real cars (been doing it since I was a kid), the rev matching in game was an automatic reflex. I could match the revs perfectly with every downshift. But interestingly, the amount I would blip the throttle without even thinking about it was a lot more than the game's auto blip, which barely touched the throttle on downshifts. I've since noticed that in many cars the auto blip is enough to keep the car in check, but some, like the 25, the auto blip is just way off, and it's causing a compression lockup when you're downshifting at the threshold on corner entry.

You can avoid it by braking longer before you downshift, and keeping the shifts low in the rev range, but this will lose you a lot of potential lap time. I've noticed that you can manually blip the throttle even when auto clutch and auto blip are turned on, so you can keep them both on, and just manually blip the throttle to match the revs on aggressive downshifts, and it eliminates this nasty snap oversteer a bunch of cars have.

Anyway, sorry about the long winded explanation, I'm not even sure if I worded it all as well as I could have lol, but I hope that helps some people.
Click to expand...

Nice information mate :cheers:, now if someone plays with a stick/DS4, it would need clutch button to heel/toe manually ( throttle blip ), is the clutch button in the button map preset for DS4 ? Maybe you can look at the control setup screen ?
 

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