Best Wheel?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KinLM
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The Porsche 911 GT3 RS sells for 259,95 USD and features the following:
  • Silent belt drive
  • large 30cm wheel rim
  • wheel rim covered with genuine italian made Alcantara. The identical material Porsche is using in the real car.
  • 14 buttons directly on the wheel and easy to reach
  • adjustable sensitivity in GT5
  • Tuning function to change settings in the game
  • Display to show telemetry data on the wheel (Gear, speed, fuel, etc.)
  • ABS vibration in all games
  • Additional vibration motors in the rim
  • 6 speed H-shifter AND and a separate sequential shifter
  • Shifter knobs in authentic size and fully made of aluminum
  • Fully adjustable pedals made of aluminum
  • Load Cell brake (no mod needed which will kill the warranty of the complete package)
  • optional factory inversion kit for pedals

Just compare this list with any other wheel in this price range or even higher

We will also launch a new bundle with the 911 GT3RS and the CSR Pedals for 199,95 USD.

Both bundles are only available in the US at the moment.
 
I figured I'd throw this up here since were comparing wheels... I posted on the T500 thread as well, but I figured it would be interested to see what you all thought as well.

I happened upon this inside my T500 this evening.

T500_Motor.jpg

Cool picture. It could be that T uses less gear ratio in the belt drive mechanism. While F revs the little motors a bit more via more leverage from the belting ratios. F uses belts with a 3 mm pitch, T is using heavier belts with a 5 mm pitch. So the T belts can transmit more torque in the end, per belt.

Hmm…the F motor might have a Honda badge on it while the T could have a Chevy or Viper badge lol? I mean if the T motor was an actual engine, the F motor could be it's electric starter!!

A fish scale on my CSR spoke at the ID of the wheel maxes out in the 10-11 pound range with a cold motor. This decreases with higher motor winding temperatures. I can measure the distance from the center line if desired. To allow for different wheel diameters.

What can the T do forcewise? How about a G27? G27-E (ARC volt modded)? CSR-E?
 
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The Porsche 911 GT3 RS sells for 259,95 USD and features the following:
  • Silent belt drive
  • large 30cm wheel rim
  • wheel rim covered with genuine italian made Alcantara. The identical material Porsche is using in the real car.
  • 14 buttons directly on the wheel and easy to reach
  • adjustable sensitivity in GT5
  • Tuning function to change settings in the game
  • Display to show telemetry data on the wheel (Gear, speed, fuel, etc.)
  • ABS vibration in all games
  • Additional vibration motors in the rim
  • 6 speed H-shifter AND and a separate sequential shifter
  • Shifter knobs in authentic size and fully made of aluminum
  • Fully adjustable pedals made of aluminum
  • Load Cell brake (no mod needed which will kill the warranty of the complete package)
  • optional factory inversion kit for pedals

Just compare this list with any other wheel in this price range or even higher

We will also launch a new bundle with the 911 GT3RS and the CSR Pedals for 199,95 USD.

Both bundles are only available in the US at the moment.


What he said... Conza needs to get his information correct. For the few dollars difference it really is an no brainer. The Thrustmaster is priced in another bracket and if you are considering it then you need to compare it with Fanatec's higher line of products.

I am only providing my point of view because I own the Fanatec line of products. I couldn't afford to purchase them new when I first got them but so far they have performed as expected. The standard CSR pedals are good but once you have used a load cell anything else seems like crap. It really starts to get difficult to modulate the brake pedal with accuracy.

Personally I would like Fanatec to create a package with the GT2 wheel and CSR Elite Pedals. I have an XBox 360 as well as a PS3 and I prefer the GT3 RS v2 over the CSR wheel but I wish it had the additional compatibility.

To be fair I am not hard on my equipment, I drive relatively smoothly, I do not hold the wheel with a death grip and there is more than enough FFB for me to feel what is happening from all 3 motors. I do have several friends who are rather rough. One has snapped the brake pedal off a Microsoft wheel set. And I notice on my CSR wheel the alcantra has shifted out of the holder. I was not to happy about that but I was able to get it almost back to the way it was.

In my opinion... comparing apples to apples... the GT3 RS v2 package is the best option available if you do not need XBox 360 compatibility. And I don't believe any of the wheels I compared do either.
 
Ripster View Post
Logitech G27 - $249.99 from Amazon I think it is the going rate
- G27 Wheel - 900-- degrees of rotation With Helical gears and wrapped in leather
- G27 H - Shifter 6 speed
- G27 Pedals (non-load cell) All with excellent travel resistance and feel stock, and many modifications if you're that obsessed

Fanatec GT3 RS v2 - $259.95 from Fanatec site
- GT3 RS v2 wheel 900 degrees of rotation Wrapped with alcantra and belt driven smoother than your helical gears
- CSR H & Sequential Shifters 6 speed shifter plus a sequential shifter thats right 2 of them
- CSR Elite Pedals with load cell Yes this comes with the package not the stock one, and there is no need to modify it
...


I just wanted to clarify everything. The G27 is a nice wheel, it is just for what Fanatec is currently offering it is a much better deal.
 
Any plans for the CSR wheel in a similar package?

They have the same deal for the CSR wheel, CSR Shifters and the CSR Elite Pedals for $359.95, this is the set I started with. I like them a lot but if I did not need the XBox 360 compatibility I would take the GT3 RS v2 package over it and save $100.

Though the joystick is in a nice position to view everything around you. The location of the direction pad on the GT3 RS v2 is cumbersome. But you can map the buttons to what you want with the G25 profile in GT5.
 
@ Ripster Happy to get my information corrected, all I was using was my observation from their US websites's pricing and the pricing I could find for a G27 in the US.

*Reads whole first post*

Few dollars being $90, but go on... Yes, this is true, forget all products above $250.

So everything I said about higher Fanatecs or the Thrustmaster, rule it out, not relevant to this client.

So looking back at that price point, what can you get...

Logitech G27 = $230
or
Fanatec GT2 Wheel only = $250
or
Fanatec CSR Wheel + CSR Pedals = ($200 + $80) = $280
or
Fanatec GT3 Wheel + CSR Pedals = ($180 + $80) = $260

So far I'm not really seeing where I need on being correct. Quality of products? Bang for Buck (Don't think so)?

For GT5 the G27 is a clear winner, especially at the sub $250 price bracket, in the higher end products I'm happy to be corrected by someone who has a video review between the Fanatec BMW + Wheel Base vs. the T500RS, otherwise I'm struggling to see where I went wrong in my opinion based on the available prices?

*reads whole second post*

Right, well I would prefer Alcantara to Leather, but I can accept the possibility that belts are smoother than gears

2 types of shifters not one... included in the price? I thought the shifters cost more *checks* Yes, $30 or $60 and imo they don't look any better than the logitech ones, they may have better technology.

True, no need to modify a load cell pedal set, I don't think its necessary, I would add that the standard pedals aren't too flash from what I can tell, so you move up a step to the $150 ones, then you'll want to invert them, that's another $50 and then you've spent $200 on pedals alone... They can't be that good, a load cell mod for a G27 would be exceedingly cheaper, you can also invert the G27s if you have the time too, more mods for that one as well.

I agree, the G27 is a nice wheel, but I don't agree that at the price it offers better value, and I wouldn't personally select the Fanatec product unless it were cheaper, which it doesn't appear to be.
 
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LOL, its only obvious, viral marketing, one plays the technical guru, the other hammers the marketing, so blatant, so obvious. No user names needed, I am sure the rest of you can figure it out. :sly:
 
@ Ripster Happy to get my information corrected, all I was using was my observation from their US websites's pricing and the pricing I could find for a G27 in the US.

*Reads whole first post*

Few dollars being $90, but go on... Yes, this is true, forget all products above $250.

So everything I said about higher Fanatecs or the Thrustmaster, rule it out, not relevant to this client.

So looking back at that price point, what can you get...

Logitech G27 = $230
or
Fanatec GT2 Wheel only = $250
or
Fanatec CSR Wheel + CSR Pedals = ($200 + $80) = $280
or
Fanatec GT3 Wheel + CSR Pedals = ($180 + $80) = $260

So far I'm not really seeing where I need on being correct. Quality of products? Bang for Buck (Don't think so)?

For GT5 the G27 is a clear winner, especially at the sub $250 price bracket, in the higher end products I'm happy to be corrected by someone who has a video review between the Fanatec BMW + Wheel Base vs. the T500RS, otherwise I'm struggling to see where I went wrong in my opinion based on the available prices?

*reads whole second post*

Right, well I would prefer Alcantara to Leather, but I can accept the possibility that belts are smoother than gears

2 types of shifters not one... included in the price? I thought the shifters cost more *checks* Yes, $30 or $60 and imo they don't look any better than the logitech ones, they may have better technology.

True, no need to modify a load cell pedal set, I don't think its necessary, I would add that the standard pedals aren't too flash from what I can tell, so you move up a step to the $150 ones, then you'll want to invert them, that's another $50 and then you've spent $200 on pedals alone... They can't be that good, a load cell mod for a G27 would be exceedingly cheaper, you can also invert the G27s if you have the time too, more mods for that one as well.

I agree, the G27 is a nice wheel, but I don't agree that at the price it offers better value, and I wouldn't personally select the Fanatec product unless it were cheaper, which it doesn't appear to be.


If you go to the Fanatec website... for $259.95 (so for $9.95) over the OP price point) there is a package deal for what I have listed.

Fanatec GT3 RS v2 wheel
Fanatec CSR shifters
Fanatec CSR Elite Pedals

So yes if you think the OP is a stickler for $10 there is only one Wheel/Pedal set to choose from I agree with you. But for $10 more the Fanatec package is a much better deal.

What I am trying to correct is your pricing of the Fanatec parts. Yes if you buy them separately your numbers may be correct. But I was talking about a package deal they are currently offering.
 
LOL, its only obvious, viral marketing, one plays the technical guru, the other hammers the marketing, so blatant, so obvious. I am sure the rest of you can figure it out.

I am just trying to post accurate information for the OP. There seemed to be a lot of either dis-information, or people were just unaware of what was available.
 
Cool picture. It could be that T uses less gear ratio in the belt drive mechanism. While F revs the little motors a bit more via more leverage from the belting ratios. F uses belts with a 3 mm pitch, T is using heavier belts with a 5 mm pitch. So the T belts can transmit more torque in the end, per belt. <snip>

I did not check the ratio of the belts when I had the wheel apart though I wish I had. Maybe next time. It is reduced twice, very similar to the method used on all of the single motor Fanatec wheels.

I also do not have a fish scale to test with. :) I will say that it's unlikely that the T500 wheel is fully utilizing the motor. Based on the reduction and the size of the motor, it is unlikely you would want to hold onto the rim at full output. It's of course hard to say without connecting my oscilloscope to check. Maybe another time... However, it's entirely possible that the large motor was fitted so that it would be unnecessary to drive it at it's limits constantly, thus increasing longevity.

The output of the T500 motor is apparently 150 mN/m (millinewton meter) The RS555PH motors used in the Fanatec wheels are approximately 50 mN/m. Thus, it would take 3 of them to equal the output of one T500 motor.
 
I am just trying to post accurate information for the OP. There seemed to be a lot of either dis-information, or people were just unaware of what was available.

Funny don't recall that my post referred to you.
 
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Well thank you very much Ripster 👍 Remember $30 not $10, but I get your point.

Hmm, that is the Elite Pedals too...

That makes a pretty big budgetary difference. He could always get the inversion kit later on too.

Still; The G27 is mapped to GT5, it has buttons to navigate the menus, you can almost get away with not needing a PS3 controller until you want to power off the system, don't think the same can be said for the Fanatec.

Likewise, the Fanatec says Porsche on it, isn't mapped, has no buttons that work (right?).

Well, the best thing now is to find a good video review on both.
 
Likewise, the Fanatec says Porsche on it, isn't mapped, has no buttons that work (right?).

Well, the best thing now is to find a good video review on both.

Buttons can be mapped for all Fanatec wheels using the DFP profile in GT5.

None of these discussions will ever mean anything unless a true comparative analysis is done of the wheels internal components, testing on identical rigid rigs using both PC and Console games, and long-term testing to evaluate reliability by truly independent evaluators with no potential conflicts of interest.

I have yet to see that done anywhere, probably because this industry has not reached the maturity level yet for serious bucks to be thrown at a test done on the same level as iFixit or portals like Endgadget, etc conduct for consumer electronic products.
 
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On shifters:
2 types of shifters not one... included in the price? I thought the shifters cost more *checks* Yes, $30 or $60 and imo they don't look any better than the logitech ones, they may have better technology.

Inside a Fanatec shifter: (regular and CSR are identical inside)

120059645.jpg


Inside a G27 shifter: (best I could do short notice, not my photo)

7064186899_a39618d8f7.jpg
 
Conza
Well thank you very much Ripster 👍 Remember $30 not $10, but I get your point.

Hmm, that is the Elite Pedals too...

That makes a pretty big budgetary difference. He could always get the inversion kit later on too.

Still; The G27 is mapped to GT5, it has buttons to navigate the menus, you can almost get away with not needing a PS3 controller until you want to power off the system, don't think the same can be said for the Fanatec.

Likewise, the Fanatec says Porsche on it, isn't mapped, has no buttons that work (right?).

Well, the best thing now is to find a good video review on both.

Also remember like the other guy said the G27 is easily moded.... How to reverse mount pedals.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml9L7NB6jVk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That I will do when I build my rig.

Also I don't know if you can do this with the Fanatec wheels but look at this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doTQNdkxrHk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I mean i am just amazed on how versatile the G27 is.
 
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Also remember like the other guy said the G27 is easily moded.... How to reverse mount pedals.... [YouTube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml9L7NB6jVk&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/YouTube]

That I will do when I build my rig.

Also I don't know if you can do this with the Fanatec wheels but look at this... [YouTube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doTQNdkxrHk&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/YouTube]

I mean i am just amazed on how versatile the G27 is.

Your links aren't working for me? Sounds like good videos, could you please edit?

Speaking of videos, here's more on the GT3 V2 with PS3, go about 13-14 minutes in

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGVbF8Mg3ZQ
 
On shifters:

Inside a Fanatec shifter: (regular and CSR are identical inside)

120059645.jpg

Fanatec CSR & Porsche Shifter Exterior Comparison:

CSR_V_P_Shifters.jpg


* The CSR shifters are bundled with an additional PS/2 to RJ style cable to connect to the CSR E/CSW wheels.
* The Porsche shifters do not come with this cable, they are only bundled with short PS/2 Male to Male cable.
* Fanatec's site states Porsche shifters are not CSW/CSR E compatible. :sly:

Anyone tried Porsche shifters with CSW/CSR E and a PS/2 to RJ cable?

CSR H-shifter Internal Mechanism

CSR_SHIFTER_EXPOSED.jpg


G27 H-shifter Internal Mechanism

On shifters:

Inside a G27 shifter: (best I could do short notice, not my photo)

7064186899_a39618d8f7.jpg

TH8RS shifter Internal Mechanism (from TH8RS thread).

01.jpg
 
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Conza
Your links aren't working for me? Sounds like good videos, could you please edit?

Speaking of videos, here's more on the GT3 V2 with PS3, go about 13-14 minutes in

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGVbF8Mg3ZQ
I just edited my post try again.

Let me know if it worked


Here I will just copy and paste it again....

Conza
Well thank you very much Ripster 👍 Remember $30 not $10, but I get your point.

Hmm, that is the Elite Pedals too...

That makes a pretty big budgetary difference. He could always get the inversion kit later on too.

Still; The G27 is mapped to GT5, it has buttons to navigate the menus, you can almost get away with not needing a PS3 controller until you want to power off the system, don't think the same can be said for the Fanatec.

Likewise, the Fanatec says Porsche on it, isn't mapped, has no buttons that work (right?).

Well, the best thing now is to find a good video review on both.

Also remember like the other guy said the G27 is easily moded.... How to reverse mount pedals.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml9L7NB6jVk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

That I will do when I build my rig.

Also I don't know if you can do this with the Fanatec wheels but look at this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doTQNdkxrHk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I mean i am just amazed on how versatile the G27 is.
 
I just edited my post try again.

Let me know if it worked

Check and check, cheers L2L! Will watch those, may risk my warranty on my G27, inverted pedals are about the only thing I really want out of my wheel set I don't have yet 👍
 
I did not check the ratio of the belts when I had the wheel apart though I wish I had. Maybe next time. It is reduced twice, very similar to the method used on all of the single motor Fanatec wheels.

I also do not have a fish scale to test with. :) I will say that it's unlikely that the T500 wheel is fully utilizing the motor. Based on the reduction and the size of the motor, it is unlikely you would want to hold onto the rim at full output. It's of course hard to say without connecting my oscilloscope to check. Maybe another time... However, it's entirely possible that the large motor was fitted so that it would be unnecessary to drive it at it's limits constantly, thus increasing longevity.

The output of the T500 motor is apparently 150 mN/m (millinewton meter) The RS555PH motors used in the Fanatec wheels are approximately 50 mN/m. Thus, it would take 3 of them to equal the output of one T500 motor.

Okay here are some CSR specs. First of all note that gear ratios multiply torque, so this needs to be considered too.

The Fanatec motor has a metal 10 tooth cog. Belt ONE is driven by the motor cog and turns a 56 tooth plastic cog via a Gates 3 mm pitch cogged belt. So that is a 5.6:1 ratio (56/10). The 56 tooth cog has a 12 tooth cog on it (also plastic as it is a different portion of the same part). Belt TWO (also 3 mm pitch) is driven by that, and turns the 76 tooth steering axis pulley. So that is a 6.333:1 ratio (76/12).

Both belt ratios together => a 35.467:1 ratio (5.6 x 6.333). So if the steering wheel is turned one complete turn by the sim driver's hands, the FFB motor shaft turns 35.467 times.

On the back of the Fanatec motor is the other end of the shaft. This is fitted with a 16 tooth gear. This turns the 32 tooth gear/wheel for the optical encoder. So for every turn of the motor shaft, the encoder wheel turns ½ turn. This encoder wheel has spokes which are counted by the optical sensor to detect wheel position. There are 60 spokes. So one turn of the motor causes 30 encoder pulses.

Okay so one turn of the steering wheel causes 35.467 turns of the motor shaft. With 30 optical pulses for every one of those motor turns. So one turn of the steering wheel results in 1064 position pulses (35.467 x 30). Therefore each steering wheel degree corresponds to 2.956 pulses (1064/360). Or there is one pulse for every ~&#8531; of a degree of steering wheel movement (360/1064). Of course, there is belt cog lash, tolerances, and encoder gear lash which adds some slop. You can feel the encoder lash by moving its wheel with your finger and noticing the play versus the motor shaft's 16 tooth gear. If one made a 1064 slot wheel to fit near the steering axis gear, this would function identically but eliminate the slop. This can be done via a printing process or laser etching BTW.

The OD of the CSR wheel is 11.5 inches and so the circumference is about 36 inches. So then for every encoder pulse, this represents turning the wheel at the OD just over ¾ of one millimeter (36 inches / 1064 and convert to mm).

I measured the ID of the wheel at about 4 ½ inches and so the 10-11 pounds of force measured with my fish scale represents about 4 (four) actual lb-ft of torque. A fish scale runs about 5 dollars for a mechanical one and 20 dollars for a load cell digital from Walmart. In case you or someone would like to try it out. Just get the force and at what distance from the center of the steering shaft.

Note that motors when operated at or near stall like FFB steering wheels are not operating like normal motors. For instance the bearings see no real RPMs. The brushes don't withstand high friction forces. Instead, the windings on the armature (which spins with the shaft) get hot according to the current passed through them. They can only lose heat by gradually heating the case which is then heat sinked. Both motors appear to be pretty much sealed compared to vented RC car motors. A vent with provision for compressed air cooling should work well in this application as it would directly cool the hottest zones (windings).

In general the windings on most motors run about 30-40º F hotter than the case temperatures. So if you measure 150ºF at the case, this would mean the windings might be close to 200ºF. High temperatures raise the resistance of the copper windings hence torque drops. At very high temperatures the windings would fail due to insulation breakdown (shorting). And the magnets can permanently lose strength if they are run too hot. A large motor such at T uses has much more thermal "inertia" due to it's mass compared to the F motor.

A quickie with my fish scale shows the F motor weighs 6-7 ounces. The T motor must weigh 1-2 pounds at a guess.
 
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Conza
Check and check, cheers L2L! Will watch those, may risk my warranty on my G27, inverted pedals are about the only thing I really want out of my wheel set I don't have yet 👍

You can always mount them back (they will never know hahaha)
 
You can purchase separate paddles for your Fanatec wheels. They are held on by 4 small screws on the GT3 RS v2. The pedals are adjustable too... if you want you can slide left a right, plus you can adjust the throw as well you can set the pressure on the load cell.

My sense is that the G27 is more rugged, but the Fanatec is a finer piece if machinery. As I have said both are quality wheels, in my opinion one just has more bang for the buck. But then it is just my opinion.
 
RacerXX,

Wow that's a lot of info. ;) Please tell me you didn't count all the teeth? :)

One thing to mention, the encoder is probably using 2 bit grey code in which case I believe this would translate to 240 (4*60) pulses per revolution of the motor. The grey code is typically necessary in order to determine the direction of rotation.

Edit: Thank you for the info though. Sorry I didn't mention that before :)
 
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RacerXX,

Wow that's a lot of info. ;) Please tell me you didn't count all the teeth? :)

One thing to mention, the encoder is probably using 2 bit grey code in which case I believe this would translate to 240 (4*60) pulses per revolution of the motor. The grey code is typically necessary in order to determine the direction of rotation.

Edit: Thank you for the info though. Sorry I didn't mention that before :)

Grey code&#8230;oh that must be for the older sim racers ;-) Reading up on it they call it Gray Code after the man who patented it in the 1940s. So you are saying that if the motor turns once and 30 spokes pass the encoder, there would be more actual chunks of useful information compared to binary hence more reliability and accuracy? I will read up on it.

Yeah I did count them. I have two CSRs and took a lot of pictures when I had one apart. I have them reasonably well figured out. I have considered having an encoder wheel made to place on the steering shaft ala CSR Elite and then relocating the stock optical sensor to suit. BTW the Logitech wheels do not seem to use a two gear optical sensor drive on the back of their motors. They use a one gear drive and so don't have some of the gear lash slop but there may be less accuracy too, not sure.

The T wheel has a WAY higher motor cost as a percentage of the manufacturing cost than the F wheel.

The T uses 5 mm pitch belts (the tooth to tooth dimension) which are less flexible than 3 mm pitch belts (which means you can't use tiny cogs as easily). So unless they use immense large cogs in their drive, they won't have as much torque multiplication as the F drive. So that big block motor will be put to work too. 5 mm belts can transmit more torque than the 3 mm versions. Given that the Fanatec's 3 mm belts can sometimes jump a tooth I wonder if the T wheels are immune to this flaw. I came up with a way to avoid this on my F wheels.

Hope you get a chance to look into the belt drive ratios and encoder specs&#8230;I'm curious...
 
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They have the same deal for the CSR wheel, CSR Shifters and the CSR Elite Pedals for $359.95, this is the set I started with. I like them a lot but if I did not need the XBox 360 compatibility I would take the GT3 RS v2 package over it and save $100.

Though the joystick is in a nice position to view everything around you. The location of the direction pad on the GT3 RS v2 is cumbersome. But you can map the buttons to what you want with the G25 profile in GT5.

Yes the joystick is in a nice position.....but only GT5 (of the two console "sims") allows me to use it. Absolutely shocking that neither Forza 4 nor Horizon allows the use of that joystick (other than to change radio stations :crazy:). I'm thinking about getting another CSR with CSP's and giving my CSR and CSR pedals to my brother. Haven't decided for sure yet though.

Another plus is that I can now use the TH8RS with the CSR (Cheers Basher!). I had the Porsche shifters and although I got used to them, I found them to feel slightly inferior to the G27 and far short of the TH8RS.

I also have a G27 that I've enjoyed very much. Also, like others have said, the G27 is incredibly moddable. If I didn't want the 360 compatibility, I'd probably never have tried a Fanatec.

Still, all in all, I think the load cells with the GT3RS are the best value at the price point.
 
lol "grey code" ;) good one. You sure you don't mean older programmers?

I'll send you a PM when I get a chance to go through it again with some more details :)

The encoder in the T500 is actually a hall sensor so I can't really count it... Apparently the wheel has 65,535 steps for it's 1080 degrees of rotation though. So some simple division gives us 0.0165 degrees per step. With a wheel diameter of 11.5 inches (even though they say it's 12") this would result in a persons hand moving 0.00331 inches (0.084074 mm) per step.

Ok, done with math for the night. I feel like I'm in highschool again!
 
lol "grey code" ;) good one. You sure you don't mean older programmers?

I'll send you a PM when I get a chance to go through it again with some more details :)

The encoder in the T500 is actually a hall sensor so I can't really count it... Apparently the wheel has 65,535 steps for it's 1080 degrees of rotation though. So some simple division gives us 0.0165 degrees per step. With a wheel diameter of 11.5 inches (even though they say it's 12") this would result in a persons hand moving 0.00331 inches (0.084074 mm) per step.

Ok, done with math for the night. I feel like I'm in highschool again!

Aha so the T wheel uses a "Hall Monitor" to keep an eye on us racers&#8230;speaking of high school.

Honestly that is one heck of a motor in the T wheel! Fanatec uses what appear to be surplus computer printer motors or similar. But the end result is quite decent.

One thing about cogged belts is that they have a cogging motion which is not desirable. I could get a sense of that when I turned the mechanism when disassembled and with no motor in place. Also, the 5 pole F motor has slight cogging by itself as the poles pass the magnets. I wonder if the T motor has more than 5 poles, that too would be superior. But you'd have to consider the belt drive ratios again.
 
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