Camber

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I find adding camber angle adds grip to the outside while cornering, and when tuned together (front/rear) you can greatly increase conering grip allowing for higher speeds while rotating (usually offset to some degree giving our tweak) but its like an ochestra all instruments need be in tune, as the SR/ Dampers/ARB/Toe & CAmber/Diffs/Brakes/TQ split all need to be in tune. We can be sitting on the perfect camber angle and not know it beause other settings are out of tune.

When set right you can feel the car rotating on the angles, I call it "riding the angles" and it greatly improves lap times for me.

Check out my lambo tune "Jack the Ripper"
 
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Come to think of it - this could be a very good reason why the 7-poster telemetry hasn't been released yet - after all, if your physics model still needs work, you're not going to allow people to view telemetry which gives evidence proving your model has shortcomings!

Yep 👍

Perhaps, the same reason why the 'new' tuning guide wasn't released (generally, I think some people in some regions have access to this..??) with anniversary edition as advertised pre-release..?

The only caveat to my observations I will add is that I do 100% of my tuning and racing online, so I cannot say if things work as they should in the offline portion of the game where differences have been observed in previous titles.

Good to see this......top man 👍

:bowdown:
 
I have not tried using ballast and weight distribution while tuning since the update. Weight transfer does seem to be reacting a little now. I am finding that softening springs and lowering compression number have more effect in controlling understeer and oversteer. I was away from GT6 for a little over a week prior to the 1.03 update so I lost a little bit of the "feel" that I had for the game but it seems that since the update some of the cars feel a little bit more floaty to me. It is kind of like driving a boat on a slightly choppy lake instead of driving a car on a track. That is a exaggeration of the feel but as close as I can come to describing the disconnect from the road surface. Maybe it is just my imagination after being away from the game a few days.


Still seems the lower the camber number the more grip.
I agree, some of the muscle cars are reminiscent of the unspeakable 'Shift 2 Unleashed'. They tend to corner as though there is a large wheel in the centre of the car.
 
Interesting about the Zonda and LFA - I think I'll buy an LFA tonight and have a go. What tyres were you on when the camber adjustment worked as expected?
RH/RH, I put +1.8 front and front corner exit sideway were half-erased...
 
Yah dont need to say "Negative" camber, "camber" alone will do, we have no way of giving positive camber and even if we did it would only be used on the left side of a NASCAR
You could put positive camber in another gran turismo, I think it was 4, that's where I learned what it did (it did no good but the camber balance act as positive camber when drifting). It can't exist, really ?
 
The only caveat to my observations I will add is that I do 100% of my tuning and racing online, so I cannot say if things work as they should in the offline portion of the game where differences have been observed in previous titles.
I don't see the differences between online and offline mode tbh. Apart gaz use and tires wear that you also get in S category, there's no differences.
 
I don't see the differences between online and offline mode tbh. Apart gaz use and tires wear that you also get in S category, there's no differences.

Really? I find that online has less grip than offline. I can tune a car for offline and it sticks like glue. Then I take it online and it understeers or oversteers all over the place. If I tune the car so that it is good online then it is still good offline. In fact, it is better. It is not unusual for it to run 1 to 1.5 sec faster offline than I can manage online. This is with all driving aids off.
 
Really? I find that online has less grip than offline. I can tune a car for offline and it sticks like glue. Then I take it online and it understeers or oversteers all over the place. If I tune the car so that it is good online then it is still good offline. In fact, it is better. It is not unusual for it to run 1 to 1.5 sec faster offline than I can manage online. This is with all driving aids off.
Under these circonstances, which I don't deny, if you make it ideal offline, how can you make it more ideal offline via online tuning ?

I don't really know if there's difference but I didn't spot any. I will make a particular attention to the grip where I'll go online :)
 
Under these circonstances, which I don't deny, if you make it ideal offline, how can you make it more ideal offline via online tuning ?

I don't really know if there's difference but I didn't spot any. I will make a particular attention to the grip where I'll go online :)
I see how that can be confusing. I was not talking about the same tune on the same car. I meant if I took an offline tune that I thought was good and ran it online then it was not good. But if I take an online tune that is good and run it offline it is still good. In fact, I am faster offline with it.
 
Online has less grip. It's hard to notice unless you know the car and track like the back of your hand. But it's there and the difference can be seen in your times. Offline is really easy to settle the car, online it's like a knives edge. Also I don't believe camber is fixed. I just tried adding camber slowly to the rear of my car after reading it might be fixed. It still increased the loss of traction at the rear like it has been doing since the beginning. I just think some cars tunes tend to do better when grip is reduced at the end that needs it. Although if you can get the same result with suspension settings it is usually better. I think people are getting confused with this part.
 
Have to say I haven't noticed any issues with the camber on mine :confused: handles exactly as I would expect it too.
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Funny I use camber and manage just fine (along with -0.08 (f) toe and -0.04 (r). The only time I use 0 camber is at Daytona with Nascar

I use a wheel so that maybe helps me with the supposed less grip with camber?
 
If we're talking straight line traction, then obviously more negative camber will hinder that traction.
OP asked about handling, which has relatively little to do with straight line traction.
 
Funny I use camber and manage just fine (along with -0.08 (f) toe and -0.04 (r). The only time I use 0 camber is at Daytona with Nascar

I use a wheel so that maybe helps me with the supposed less grip with camber?

Not supposed, it certainly gives more cornering grip.

Either people aren't testing, or they're blindly defending GT out of misplaced loyalty. This isn't a flaw based on opinion of how the game should work, it's a pretty silly mistake that needs fixing, even if it's not game breaking.
 
As i remeber in 1.02, when tuning R8 Ultra, camber settings had actually impact on handling when turning. Different setting gave even different sound when turning. I used to go in circles on 1st gear, on low speeds to see which wheel loses traction. It was possible to remove loss of traction during this test by aplying negative camber.
 
Not supposed, it certainly gives more cornering grip.

Either people aren't testing, or they're blindly defending GT out of misplaced loyalty. This isn't a flaw based on opinion of how the game should work, it's a pretty silly mistake that needs fixing, even if it's not game breaking.
Well said! I too use a wheel and when my friends and I are seeking .0XX of an improvement any change matters. Camber definitely is broken. putting my camber at 0 has solved many unexplained handling issues for me. Especially when a car comes stock with 3.5/2.9!
 
So after all this discussion and tests where are we now and what is confirmed?
 
So how does this affect the race cars and other cars that are set up stock with negative camber?

Can we increase grip by changing the camber settings to 0 front and back?

For the answer above about the changes improving the handling; It might be that less grip front vs back is helping the car feel more controllable and not necessarily improving grip. Just improving grip balance.
 
Ok, here it goes again. Camber at the moment only reduces grip at the wheels you apply it to. The current theory is pd has it backwards and we are actually getting positive camber when the game says negative. Majority of cars are the fastest with 0 camber front and back. But if you want to change the handling of cars you can use camber to balance out cars that grip heavily on one side, hence the reason you see it on some peoples drift cars etc. The game doesn't take account for this in the stock setups.
 
Just to contribute, I also find adding ANY amount of camber makes a car slower around a track.

Spending some time lapping Tsukuba I tried camber settings of 1.8, 1.0, 0.5 and 0.0. always even front / rear.
I tried this with sports soft tyres and then all again with racing hard tyres.

In EVERY instance I found the LESS camber(-) I used the quicker lap times I could get.

This was while not changing any other settings on the car.
 
Just to contribute, I also find adding ANY amount of camber makes a car slower around a track.

Spending some time lapping Tsukuba I tried camber settings of 1.8, 1.0, 0.5 and 0.0. always even front / rear.
I tried this with sports soft tyres and then all again with racing hard tyres.

In EVERY instance I found the LESS camber(-) I used the quicker lap times I could get.

This was while not changing any other settings on the car.
You are right. Adding camber as of right now only reduces grip. Added evenly will reduce lap times. As I said above the only benefit of camber is to alter a cars grip at one end. And in my opinion should only be used when all other tuning methods have already been exhausted.
 
I find the cars more comfortable to drive with camber f / r a 2:1 ratio. On long straight tracks just use 1/0.5, for a twisty short track I use 2.2/1.1, but do play around with rear camber. It seems to work for me, maybe a placebo effect.
 
So how does this affect the race cars and other cars that are set up stock with negative camber?
Can we increase grip by changing the camber settings to 0 front and back?
Yeah probably.


I just found the HKS CT230 has 3.0 / 1.0 front / rear, and you can't set it any lower than that!.
.....and yep, it handles like its got positive camber on the front and understeers badly. This is a nightmare!

How much testing did PD actually do? EPIC FAIL!!!
 
I find the cars more comfortable to drive with camber f / r a 2:1 ratio. On long straight tracks just use 1/0.5, for a twisty short track I use 2.2/1.1, but do play around with rear camber. It seems to work for me, maybe a placebo effect.

It's not a placebo, the car is handling better for you. You have less grip on the front and less on the rear but a slight imbalance towards more rear grip. The car feels balanced for you, but overall it has less grip and you are slower than you might otherwise be with a 0.0/0.0 car, but tuned for the kind of feel you are looking for. You might also try 0.5/0.0 which might get you what you want, with a little more grip.
 
I never use any aids so I'm wondering if the people who keep saying their cars are fine are using aids and that's why they can't feel the difference?
 
Not necessarily, a friend of mine used to argue with me that there weren't any tuning glitches in GT5, even when I proved it. He was so determined to be right that he convinced himself he was.
 
Not necessarily, a friend of mine used to argue with me that there weren't any tuning glitches in GT5, even when I proved it. He was so determined to be right that he convinced himself he was.
Yes I guess there's that element too
 
Let me get this straight: camber is currently coded as positive, allthough visually it is negative, allthough PD's tuning slider has only positive values? IE the slider is in fact correct, but who in their right mind wants positive camber for racing purposes?
 
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