I’ve been booted from Race C twice (EDIT: Now three times!) in a row now, which is annoying since I was able to enter it just fine before that, and it’s even more annoying since there’s only a race every 30mins.
I wonder if it has to do with the incoming update?
Top job!I completed my fuel testing at Sarthe. For easy reading, this is the number of laps you can expect to make at FM1 (AT)
Toyota TS050 5.0 laps
Toyota TS030 4.5 laps
GTR-LM Nismo 4.4 laps
Peugeot 908 HDi 4.4 laps
SRT Tomahawk 4.4 laps
Nissan R92CP 4.3 laps
Audi R18 '16 4.2 laps
Porsche 919 4.1 laps
Audi VGT 4.0 laps
Alpine VGT 4.0 laps
Mazda LM55 4.0 laps
Bugatti VGT 3.9 laps
Jaguar XJR-9 3.8 laps
Sauber C9 3.7 laps
Peugeot L750R 3.7 laps
Hyundai N 2025 3.6 laps
McLaren VGT 3.6 laps
Mazda 787B 3.5 laps
Audi R18 '11 3.5 laps
As far as tire wear goes, most cars have little issues to go 5 laps on the same tires except the GTR-LM Nismo which won't make it. A tire change is recommended for Audi and Alpine VGT. (Or just ignore those, crap)
That is a respectable time. Fast enough to get into the fastest room. If you had qualifies at 43 or slower you would have been in a room with slower guys. I imagine a mid 42 may have got you near the front.![]()
Good luck! Sarthe certainly put my wheel stand to the test... i snapped it months ago with heavy braking at Mulsanne! It was a bit of a cheapo one but nevertheless a nightmare to try and hobble round with a steering wheel on your kneeWheel stand arrived yesterday. A Trak Racer FS3.
Part of me hopes the next few weeks/month ish of daylies aren't much to my liking, while I get up to speed.
Good luck! Sarthe certainly put my wheel stand to the test... i snapped it months ago with heavy braking at Mulsanne! It was a bit of a cheapo one but nevertheless a nightmare to try and hobble round with a steering wheel on your knee![]()
That doesn't sound much fun, at all. This Trak Racer seems like a pretty hefty bit of kit, so we'll see how it goes. As long as I can match my controller pace by the end of March (have a lobby Gr.3 race to enter then) I'll be happy enough.
Obviously, I'd like to be up to speed and a bit faster while the current FIA season is open. But, realistically, that's not going to happen.
I feel your pain.... it's takes so much time and effort to climb the ladder and takes only 1 race to scrub all your hard work. I hate the way the points system works.Wooooow. 2,000 dr down the drain after race c. All those 2 weeks of races’ effort down the drain in a heartbeat.
Thanks audi for making the worst, least fuel efficient lmp in history, a HYBRID mind you.
Kingdom hearts 3 it is then for this week.
I recently got a Playseat Challenge and I have a G29. The playseat wheel plate has holes to bolt the G29 down, so that can't happen again. I also made a wedge to get the pedals at the right angle. Pedals bolt to the wedge, and the wedge velcroes to the playseat.I've got just over a month on the G29 now and while initially I was way off controller pace I am ahead of it now on pretty much any track. OK, it may be because I'm playing more because the wheel is much more engaging so practice is helping improve but, for example, my Fuji Gr4 time was 1.45.8 when we ran there in November and this time round I'm at 1.43.2(ish).
My wheel did come off the stand last week. It's mounted on a Playseat Challenge which is really stable and clamped in such a way that pulling it left to right or pushing will not budge it but if you pull it toward you it can slide off. I was left with a steering wheel in my lap after pulling the wheel in an evasive braking situation on Nurb GP. I did manage to finish the race in one piece though.![]()
I recently got a Playseat Challenge and I have a G29. The playseat wheel plate has holes to bolt the G29 down, so that can't happen again. I also made a wedge to get the pedals at the right angle. Pedals bolt to the wedge, and the wedge velcroes to the playseat.
I recently got a Playseat Challenge and I have a G29. The playseat wheel plate has holes to bolt the G29 down, so that can't happen again. I also made a wedge to get the pedals at the right angle. Pedals bolt to the wedge, and the wedge velcroes to the playseat.
You could manage it easily with the fuel?My first step into GR1 this week, and I'm not fast! My qualifying is 3.30 in the Mazda but I've been running the Peugeot in races. Non-stopping on FM2. The majority of people seem to be avoiding pitting, if only they were so good at avoiding crashing into me!
I did on my first race, not so much on the second. Had to change to FM3 for a lap and a halfYou could manage it easily with the fuel?
This confirms my theory (or maybe its ridiculously obvious to everyone but me) - that if you get a major 29 point SR downgrade, you end up with "B" drivers most of whom are quite a bit slower, and then, you gain DR until you hit SR "S" again.
Strange because it actually rewards getting a 29 point downgrade - although when it happened to me, I felt a victim.
PS - I have had 5 practice laps at Le Mans and boy - I am super slow. Finished just two laps and the best I have is a 1:42! Phew ... maybe I need to spend some time practicing, I am going to get beaten up like Joe Frazier against Ali in the Killer in Manila. .
I've got just over a month on the G29 now and while initially I was way off controller pace I am ahead of it now on pretty much any track. OK, it may be because I'm playing more because the wheel is much more engaging so practice is helping improve but, for example, my Fuji Gr4 time was 1.45.8 when we ran there in November and this time round I'm at 1.43.2(ish).
My wheel did come off the stand last week. It's mounted on a Playseat Challenge which is really stable and clamped in such a way that pulling it left to right or pushing will not budge it but if you pull it toward you it can slide off. I was left with a steering wheel in my lap after pulling the wheel in an evasive braking situation on Nurb GP. I did manage to finish the race in one piece though.![]()
Actually that might be a great strategy for slow-coaches like me! I always avoid mix-ups (starting from the back, that's easy to do!) and have been an SR S for a while.
On the rare occasions I do venture online, it seems to focus "matching" on SR rather than DR. So I tend to get put in races where the drivers are high SR.... but also high DR (although there are always a couple of Ds like me at least!).
Perhaps if I misbehaved a little, dropped SR down to a C I might get put with drivers that aren't so quick and have a better chance of gaining at least a few DR points!Good plan or lame??
The Audi is not so bad, it's one of the quickest cars for this race on pace and even over the race distance it's competitive. I had a race last night 2 Toyota's vs 2 Audi's in the lead group and both of the R18's finished within 5 seconds in a clean race.Wooooow. 2,000 dr down the drain after race c. All those 2 weeks of races’ effort down the drain in a heartbeat.
Thanks audi for making the worst, least fuel efficient lmp in history, a HYBRID mind you.
Kingdom hearts 3 it is then for this week.
Surely losing DR in order to gain DR is self defeating? The real thing is that you lose DR in order to gain wins. Last week I was able to move from 5,000 DR to 13.000 in one afternoon. Without setting a new quali time I went from top 5 on the grid in low DR C races to 13th on the grid in low DR B races. I didn't any but I'm sure if I'd intentionally dropped my DR to low D I'd have been given a 1st or 2nd grid and improved my chances dramatically? Not that I race for wins so could not be bothered trying to play the system like that.
As for @Melbourne Park's observation, I dropped 29 SR points yesterday but my DR remained 12 to 13,000 points. My grids also remained the same, with 5th to 7th spot places. I did get one erratic race where there were DRS to DRB in one field and I was sitting on 13th only for the next race to be all DRB and me on 3rd.