Drifting R/C Cars?

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I currently have some money to blow and have wanted a nice rc cars for a fair few years now. I would love a drift rc, does anyone have pictures of the 180sx and all that because my computer is to slow to download the videos.

I live in Australia and I am not sure if all of this X-mod stuff is available but since I am a complete n00b with rc's I dont have a clue.

Are these cars hard to maintain? Are the drift ones electric? Are they a reasonable price to mod? Any help would be great and I am checking out your site at the moment Ghost C.
 
Your best bet is to buy a drift car from Yokomo. Not only is it somewhat drift specific, but it can be modified to be raceable as well. Yokomo's come as kits (as far as I remember most Yokomo cars are not "Ready-To-Run") and the drift cars are not only electric but also belt-driven 4WD. If this is your first time to RC, then electric is the way to go for beginners. No carb.s to set up, engines to break-in, or fuel to select. Only thing is selection of the ESC (Electronic Speed Control, exactly what it sounds like), battery, motor, and radio. Batteries are pretty simple to pick, larger the number, the longer it will last. I would recommend either a 1500-2400 mAh NiCd. You can go for the 3000-3400 NiMH, but they are a little more to maintain and require a special charger. A good Motor to go for, in my opinion is the Trinity Monster Horsepower "Stock." Stock, in this case, just means the timing of the motor can't be changed. Don't worry about that until you start feeling more comfortable with the maintaince of the Stock motor. A "modified" motor is not only more powerful, but has more tuning options that can be a bit much for the beginner. An ESC that I would recommend is the DuraTrax 8T(urn) w/ Reverse. Not only can Reverse be turned off for racing, but it will allow you to move up to higher turn, more powerful motors in the future. Last, but not least, is the Radio. This is something you really shouldn't skimp on, but you don't have to go overboard. The best radios out there for a small budget are the Airtronics BL2DR and the Hitec Aggressor 2 Channel. Both of these radios are AM frequencies, but aren't expensive and are fairly simple to use. If you go electric, be sure to get a radio with a servo, as well. You still need to steer, after all. Both of these radios offer that option.
 
I still recommend an X-Mods for anyone who wants to get into R/C cars. They come with just as many options as the higher priced cars, but aren't highly priced. And you don't have to worry about buying all the stuff that the guy above me mentioned, you just get the car, slap on a few upgrades, and get sideways :)

If you have Radio Shacks where you live, you have X-Mods. They might have to special order them, but they usually do that kind of stuff for people. If not, e-bay and worldwide shippers are your friend. That's where I got mine.
 
If you have money to blow buy a proper 1/10 RC car. They handle better than X-Mods, go faster than X-Mods and you learn proper mechanics and not just "I'm putting a stage 3 motor in my rc". :odd:
 
There's no proper mechanics involved in R/C cars. Any of them. Until they start using four stroke motors, there are none.
 
I'm not a fanboy, it's the truth. Why pay $300 for something you can get for $50?

Anyway, let's stop the damn arguments. I'd still like to know where I could get a roof scoop. And someone should put up a video of some R/C drifting.
 
Ghost C
I'm not a fanboy, it's the truth. Why pay $300 for something you can get for $50?
Because you get $300 of good quality RC rather than $50 of riced out plastic.

Anyway, let's stop the damn arguments. I'd still like to know where I could get a roof scoop. And someone should put up a video of some R/C drifting.
Have you seen the Yokomo cars drifting?
 
Ghost C
There's no proper mechanics involved in R/C cars. Any of them. Until they start using four stroke motors, there are none.
You've never messed with a 1 Hp, 2-stroke, .12 CI, O.S. powered 4WD stadium truck that weighs nearly 3 pounds and is capable of driving at speeds of 45 MPH? Heck, even my electric car is capable of driving at speeds of 30+ MPH! There ARE proper mechanics involved in RC cars, and, from your statement, it's pretty obvious you've never delt with a real RC car.
And, yes, I have worked on cars before, I was a mechanic for over 4 years before I decided that the dealership I was at wasn't making me enough money, so I decided to get a College education so I could get a better paying job.
Now, don't get me wrong, for the money you are paying, the X-mod cars are a bargin! I've even thought of buying one, but my Kyosho Mini-Zs just seemed like a better choice.
 
ND4SPD
Hey KonArtist, how much did that Ferrari cost? Also, how fast is it?
And, Does anyone know how fast 2000 Ft. per minute is in MPH?

it costs 90 buks with out the internals (servo, ESC, Radio, Battery) so i spent about 250 buks. I got a 21 turn motor, and a ESC that can handle it. Overall i think it go from about 25-40 MPH depending on my setup. Its a good starting RC, just dont get a toy (xmod, or jada RC) those are a wate of money :nervous: :yuck:
 
Ghost C
I still recommend an X-Mods for anyone who wants to get into R/C cars. They come with just as many options as the higher priced cars, but aren't highly priced. And you don't have to worry about buying all the stuff that the guy above me mentioned, you just get the car, slap on a few upgrades, and get sideways :)

If you have Radio Shacks where you live, you have X-Mods. They might have to special order them, but they usually do that kind of stuff for people. If not, e-bay and worldwide shippers are your friend. That's where I got mine.

This is all BS, you obviously havent droven a fully tuned Nitro 1/10 or off road buggy, thats way funner than some 50 dollar plastic POS. Bodykits and all that other Ish is a waste...
 
KonArtist
I got a 21 turn motor, and a ESC that can handle it. Overall i think it go from about 25-40 MPH depending on my setup.

Are you going to go any lower? My HPI Sprint GTi currently has a 14 Double Turn motor in it. It goes like fawk and because of the wheelbase...sheesh it sure is a handful. I'd like to get some of those Yokomo PVC Tyre Sleeves and have a go drifting with those.
 
eddieturner2002
Because you get $300 of good quality RC rather than $50 of riced out plastic.

So just because there's the option of buying a bodykit for them, they're riced out plastic? And what the hell does plastic have to do with anything? I've never seen any bodyshells that weren't plastic.

You've never messed with a 1 Hp, 2-stroke, .12 CI, O.S. powered 4WD stadium truck that weighs nearly 3 pounds and is capable of driving at speeds of 45 MPH?

No. And what does top speed mean when it comes to drifting?

Heck, even my electric car is capable of driving at speeds of 30+ MPH!

Wonderful. There's a purpose-built drag Supra X-Mods that has a top speed of 45mph. My near-stock Supra can go 20. Again I say, what's top speed got to do with drifting?

There ARE proper mechanics involved in RC cars, and, from your statement, it's pretty obvious you've never delt with a real RC car.

Yeah, unhook some wires, solder this, hook that up. That's not quite the same as doing a full engine rebuild, porting out a head, or building a full race suspension.

Also, what the hell is a "real" R/C car? My Supra is radio controlled. That's as real as R/C cars get, I hate to break it to you.

Now I remember why I stay away from other people who like R/C cars.
 
Ghost C
Also, I think $300 RC cars (ala Yokomo, or about all other gas powered cars) are stupid.

Great opinion you have there. If you don't like big scale RC cars then leave this thread and go have fun in the X-Mods drifting thread. Do us all a favour, but before you leave, take a lot at some of the vids I posted a few posts up. They show real RC drifting in action.
 
Those 1/10 scale RC cars are nuts. Like you said....1hp, .12 cubic inches....and under 3 pounds. Well, those are a lot easier to drive than a Monster GT weighing in at 13 pounds with a Picco P3 .26. 2.9hp and goes like a bat outta hell. I have drifted it with brute power and locked diffs and in gravel parking lots. There's a huge parking lot near my school that is like 80 yards bye 80 yards. FUN FUN FUN.
 
i would suggest a tc3 or tc4 over one of the yokomo drifters. at least then you dont have to buy new tires all the time. the tc4 and tc3 is also a better car to maintain, large aftermarket support, and is quite fast and forgiving for a newb. the tc3, tc4, and the yokomo drifters are electric, and be prepared to pay about $150 for a good set of batteries and a charger. they can be hard to maintain if you dont keep up with it, but it is generally quite easy to keep clean.
 
eddieturner2002
Great opinion you have there. If you don't like big scale RC cars then leave this thread and go have fun in the X-Mods drifting thread. Do us all a favour, but before you leave, take a lot at some of the vids I posted a few posts up. They show real RC drifting in action.

I never said I didn't like big scale cars. I said I didn't like big price cars.

I saw the videos, and they were boring. When they can do something an X-Mods can't, I'll be impressed. Let me know when that happens.
 
Ghost C
I saw the videos, and they were boring. When they can do something an X-Mods can't, I'll be impressed. Let me know when that happens.
Show me a video of an X-Mod doing drifts like those then.

Also if any (experienced probably) driver is looking for a good chassis I think the Team Xray X-Ray T1 Factory Kit could be a good choice. They are used by a lot of people in my area and I have been given good feedback from owners that use them. They seem to be doing well to and to buy one for around £180, ain't that bad.
 
Ghost C
Yeah, unhook some wires, solder this, hook that up. That's not quite the same as doing a full engine rebuild, porting out a head, or building a full race suspension.

Also, what the hell is a "real" R/C car? My Supra is radio controlled. That's as real as R/C cars get, I hate to break it to you.

Now I remember why I stay away from other people who like R/C cars.
Does your Supra have anti-roll bars? How about different rate springs? Shock oil thicknesses? Shock piston types? Four-wheel-Independent suspension? True Ackerman steering? Rear Anti-squat? If that X-mod is anywhere close to my Mini-Z, it doesn't have any of that, save for maybe (note MAYBE) oil filled shocks. Also, my Nitro-Methane fueled 4WD truck's engine will eventually need to be rebuilt by replacing the sleeve and piston and then engine CAN be ported just like any two-stroke engine.

I hate to break it to YOU, but that X-mod isn't comparable to my HPIs or any 1/10th scale RC cars.
 
B.I.R.M._USA
I hate to break it to YOU, but that X-mod isn't comparable to my HPIs or any 1/10th scale RC cars.

True. GhostC...X-Mods don't have as much depth or quality about them. That's why they're $50 or whatever price they are. If this is the point you've been trying to prove we already know that big scale RC cars are not cheap but we don't mind because we know we are getting good quality chassis' with good motors and batteries/fuel. We like the technicality of Speed Controllers and low wind motors etc. not things like 'Drift Kits' and 'Stage 2 handling packs'.
 
B.I.R.M._USA
Does your Supra have anti-roll bars?

Yes, they're called top plates, they go to the top of each wheel, and to a mounting point on the chassis.

How about different rate springs?

Yep.

Four-wheel-Independent suspension?

Yes.

True Ackerman steering?

If you mean fully proportionate, then yes.

Rear Anti-squat?

X-Mods don't squat to the rear anywhere near as bad as a rear engine, no weight distribution adjustable car, so no.

I hate to break it to YOU, but that X-mod isn't comparable to my HPIs or any 1/10th scale RC cars.

I'm not the one continually comparing them to 1/10th scale cars, now am I? I said an X-Mods can drift just as well as them, not that they can go as fast, or are as big, or any of that other crap you guys are continuing on and on with.

Show me a video of an X-Mod doing drifts like those then.

If I had a video camera, I would.

We like the technicality of Speed Controllers and low wind motors etc. not things like 'Drift Kits' and 'Stage 2 handling packs'.

There's a massive aftermarket of different motors with different brushes, magnets, and all that. I could wind my own motor if I felt like it, and many other X-Mods owners have. Just because you don't know about it does not mean it doesn't exist.
 
No, true Ackerman steering is better known as Toe-Out-In-Turns. When you turn the wheel in a corner, the inside front wheel must turn more than the outside front wheel. This site will help. It's mostly talking about Oval tracks, but the principle is still the same: http://www.auto-ware.com/setup/ack_rac.htm

And about the X-mod and 4-wheel-independent suspension (FWIS), I was thinking at first, this guy must not know what I'm talking about. So I did some reasearch about the X-mod, and was very surprised. When I said the X-mod was a bargin, I didn't realize how much. It actually does have FWIS and the ability to go from RWD to AWD. The FWIS alone blows my Mini-Z out of the water, the addition of the AWD conversion just destroys it something I wish my Mini-Z Monster came with. Then, as a show-off, the ability to give the bodies different looks is just a great feature. With my Mini-Z, I can only change bodies and add lights, maybe a spoilier if you're careful enough. After all that, however, the kits are very similar, including the "top plates" and spring rates. It's actually got me thinking of buying one and getting the 4WD kit.
 
Anyways, I found a Tamiya TL01 RTR kit for about 150 canadian, is this a good deal? The only thing it didn't come with is a radio, and its 1:10 scale. Electric obviously.
 
I couldnt find any tl01s on ebay, there was a few tt01s but were all in europe. Are there any Australians that visit this page that know whats here?

I looked at the yokomo site and the bodies look awesome! I am just looking for a basic beginners car but one thats still driftable.
 
Ghost C
I never said I didn't like big scale cars. I said I didn't like big price cars.

I saw the videos, and they were boring. When they can do something an X-Mods can't, I'll be impressed. Let me know when that happens.

Xmods cant drift as well as 1/10th scale and a person that has drift both should know (me)

C ghost, I don’t see why you think xmods are better than Real Rc’s. I already flamed with you before, no doubt but you seem like nothings better than xmods. Have you tried driving an nitro or electric 1/10- 1/8th car or truck? I can answer for you ,no. just because you watch some low quality movie dosent make the real thing “boring” You probably cant afford it, this is why you brought an xmod. For its low quality, licensed crap. Just Face it kid, Xmods are crap. what xmods been out for only about 2 year?

Here take alook at the event held down in Irwin dale , Cali
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just a few photos taken, i did not see anything lower than 1/10th scale 👍

just face it man Xmods are 👎 👎 👎 👎 :crazy: :nervous: :indiff:

Also it seems that you xmod people are better off at the child land xmodworld site.
 
KonArtist
Xmods cant drift as well as 1/10th scale and a person that has drift both should know (me)

C ghost, I don’t see why you think xmods are better than Real Rc’s.

X-Mods are really radio controlled. Again I say, how much more real does a radio controlled car get than being radio controlled?

Have you tried driving an nitro or electric 1/10- 1/8th car or truck? I can answer for you ,no.

You're right, because I don't need equipment to make up for lack of skill.

You probably cant afford it, this is why you brought an xmod.

You're right. Why don't you have your rich mommy and daddy loan me some money? Some of us don't have thousands of dollars (your words) to spend on "real" R/C cars.

For its low quality, licensed crap. Just Face it kid, Xmods are crap. what xmods been out for only about 2 year?

So somehow how long they've been out has something to do with their level of quality? Awesome logic. And calling me kid as an insult, coming from you, is about like a retard insulting my intelligence.

Also it seems that you xmod people are better off at the child land xmodworld site.

I've been here alot longer than you. Think about that the next time you try and imply that I don't belong here.

From now on, I'm only responding to posts worth responding to. That doesn't include yours.

No, true Ackerman steering is better known as Toe-Out-In-Turns.

Nope, doesn't have that. But you can modify the steering servo to turn alot harder.
 
Unless you buy a Wal-Mart or a Toys-R-Us kiddie car, a radio should have Throttle/Steering trim and Steering Dual Rate (which controls the amount the servo turns the wheels both left and right, sounds like what you are talking about).

Also, this comment, "You're right, because I don't need equipment to make up for lack of skill," is just down right wrong. Most of those guy doing the drifts with RC cars use NORMAL equipment and are NOT drift specific, most of the time. I was drifting my RC car on the soft, high grip RACE TIRES and my usual race suspension setup. The usual case this doesn't happen is when a guy buys the Yokomo Drift Kit (comes with the MR4 chassis, oil shocks, a body of your choice, and the drift ring tires).

Your next comment, "You're right. Why don't you have your rich mommy and daddy loan me some money? Some of us don't have thousands of dollars (your words) to spend on "real" R/C cars." is also SOMEWHAT wrong. I got my kit and everything to finish it (paint, electronics, <the race tires and a second body and touring car suspension because my car started out as a Rallye kit>) for around $325USD. As I stated, my car started out as a Rallye Ford Focus and I changed it to a touring Nissan FairladyZ, so that price includes the parts needed to convert it. You can get a good kit between $250USD (most RTRs) to $300USD (usually a low priced kit with the basic electronics and finishing equipment). It's not hard to go out landish, even with a the smaller cars like my Mini-Zs and my HPI Micro RS4.

It doesn't have to be expensive to get into 1/10th RC, but it's not cheap, either. Unless you look at the scale, then the money adds up right. If I were to up scale my price from 1/10th scale, I've only spent $3,250USD. You can't even buy a real 350Z for that price!
 
Nah, the controller has a throttle/steering trim switch, I was talking about an upgrade to make the wheels turn even harder.

I never meant to insult any non-asshole 1/10 drivers. I admit, they're cool, and I'd drive one if someone let me use theirs or I could find it for as cheap as my X-Mods, but it's not my style to pay a ton for a toy. Not to mention I couldn't even drive a 1/10th in my house, which is where I do all of my driving.
 
Well, at first i would like to address that the real form of Drifting is more than it meets the eyes. First of all, drifting either a car or a small RC car, you all need to have the power within your control. So does Drifting really mean to loose almost all traction? From what we've on those options video, and the D1 Series in Japan, it all looked like they're just afloat on the race track. But really, they are all in full control of every movement, and every corner. The amount of throttle, amount of braking, turn of steering wheel, and most of all, the timing of each action they take to keep the car in control.

So, back down to the topic that has been talked about. RC car drifting also has the same principle applied to it as of a real car drifting. Personally, i own an xmod too, i've previously owned a number of different kinds of RC cars too. Needless to say i've also tried TycoRC and all other Wal-Mart and Toysrus brands too. Also to add, i've also tried to put packing tape and electrical tape onto the tires of the RC cars to make them slide. I've also done some motor upgrades to the RC cars to gain power to the wheels. I'm also one of those people who would love to spend more for an RC car and get the more expensive models to play with, but as my budgets rightnow wouldn't allow me to do that yet.

What I'm tryig to say is, drifting an RC car is very much possible. Either with a cheaper version of RC car, or a more expensive ones like Kyosho, the same principle for Drifting still applies! So what if you have an RC with a simple designed steering, throttle, and brake control. Or if you have more money, a more sophisticated version of RC cars that would allow you to customize every from bumper to bumper. Go ahead and try to find your own way to drift them! I'm not trying to stop anyone from trying them, i'm just trying to clearify my own point of view here!

Yes you can try to drift an RC with taped tires, it'll just be like driving on ice! Yes you can try to use PCV pipes to fit over your wheels, but guess what? you'll still need some traction to gain control. If you own a electric powered RC, then be careful of your motor torquing your tires too much until they loose too much traction with those PCV pipes. At last, Yes you can still drift with rubber tires, because my point is... do we see Tommy Mac driving a PCV tires on tarmac? do we see D1 drivers drive in a skating rink? No they don't, they all use rubber compound on any surface they drive on. They may use different compound and tread patterns for a specific surface, but all the difference in them, they all have a purpose.

Let me just talk about drifting again for a minute. Drifting exists in all forms of motorsport racing. From rally to F1, they all drift. Believe it or not? up to you. It's obvious in rally races where they clip corners on the mountain paths at that high angle and speed. Do they really want to loose all their traction on that course? No they don't, or else there'll be no reason for all those 50 different sets of tires, even hand cut tread patterns. It's not so obvious that F1 drivers drift too. But truth is they do too. At a smaller angle, and not as visible, also at higher speeds, they drift before we know that they are. Why do they do Drift during those racing situations? They're not for show purpose only. They did that to achieve maximum speed under a specific condition. Drifting actually gives them speed during the race, not slow them down and do doughnuts.

Back to RC, full throttle till the tires spin is called a "powerslide" or "burnout". Taping your tires so slick till they can't hold the road and try to take a corner at speed meaning that you're looking for a "360" before you make a "slide". PCV tires on RC cars WITH a suspension and good drivetrain meaning "control" with less "traction". Driving an RC with the the right suspension setup, good drivetrain capability, and a good set of brakes, Can ride down the racetrack at full speed and possibily perform drifts on corners. I've seen 1/5th scale doing high speed drifts on the track.

To answer some of your questions, why spend more for an RC car that only meant to be controlled? Because there is a reason for something to be expensive. For instance, PS One and PS2 are both on the market rightnow, why buy PS One? Or another words, why buy an PS2? PS One is cheaper right? but PS2 has more feature... right? Why buy an $50 xmod over a $200 miniz? Tell you the truth, miniz handles alot better than xmods. Why buy a expensive Drift Kit made by Yokomo when you can just buy a Toysrus RC car? Because you can't control the Toysrus one as well as you can control Yokomo ones.

But then again, i'm not trying to tell everyone to spend loads of cash on something that they're not even needing. To tell you all the truth, if you're happy with powersliding the RC on corners, go with what you feel is suitable for that purpose. If you feel like sliding around the course, again, get what you're happy with. But if you're serious about this hobby of RC cars, and would do anything to get what you're really happy with, then you gotta spend that extra cash.

In conclusion, there is not really a right or wrong with this choosing of RC cars as for the price, performance, or looks. Get what you're comfortable with. Me myself wants tuneable parts and upgrades, so i will be spending more money for something more customizable later on. But if cash is something that you're concerning with, play with what you got rightnow, and save some cash if you really want to go on with this hobby. Remember, "you get what you paid for". There's a reason why something is not as costly, they're simpler.
 
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