Eddy's PVC Rig from start to finish - (Inspired by SIMUL8R) - Now with Insturctions!

  • Thread starter SlowEddy
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Congrats Eddy!
It's looks perfect!! That's why i want to build one myself.
But first i need to ask you if you can share the construction diagrams in full resolution.


Thanks!!!

Gil
 
Eddy just thought that i would say this, ok so on the blueprints on the front section of the build...theres a slight error/typo. Where it says 9" Pvc towards the bottom...on the part number it says 12.25" So maybe fix that up as it would be better for people to see it.
I learned the hard way lol...after I got scared from seeing that that part was so small and wouldn't connect i was like shoot...I probably messed something else up.
;) all good now.
 
Ashburngil
Congrats Eddy!
It's looks perfect!! That's why i want to build one myself.
But first i need to ask you if you can share the construction diagrams in full resolution.


Thanks!!!

Gil
Click to expand...


click on the links below the pictures for full-rez!!

lilplayaforlife
Eddy just thought that i would say this, ok so on the blueprints on the front section of the build...theres a slight error/typo. Where it says 9" Pvc towards the bottom...on the part number it says 12.25" So maybe fix that up as it would be better for people to see it.
I learned the hard way lol...after I got scared from seeing that that part was so small and wouldn't connect i was like shoot...I probably messed something else up.
;) all good now.
Click to expand...

good catch! I'm fixing it right now, and will upload/update within the next few minutes. hope the rest of the build goes smooth for you!
 
simul8r
Eddy, just out of curiosity, how much did all the joints and pipes cost you in total up in Canada?
Click to expand...

Hey Sim!

I spent about $170CDN total for all the PVC parts (we get taxed pretty bad :( ) with a few extra T's and a bit of pipe leftover

also I couldn't find any of PVC Elbows / T's that were flush like the ones you used, which is what i would have preferred. the ones i got are ugly :indiff:
 
SlowEddy
Hey Sim!

I spent about $170CDN total for all the PVC parts (we get taxed pretty bad :( ) with a few extra T's and a bit of pipe leftover

also I couldn't find any of PVC Elbows / T's that were flush like the ones you used, which is what i would have preferred. the ones i got are ugly :indiff:
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My mistake, I thought the joint's you used were ABS since their black and differently designed then the PVC I used. I guess they do come in both ways. Ugly?..nah, you definitely made yours look pretty sweet obviously.
 
Just an fyi....I've had a HELL of a time trying to find a single, reclinable seat that had sliders. Most ebay sales were for pairs of seats, and even then while not horribly priced, the shipping doubled the cost (from just $150, to $300 after shipping).

I finally hit amazon tonite and found some new ones going for as low (for the style I wanted) as $130 up to $160....with FREE shipping.

Just wanted to let anyone know who is building this pvc cockpit about the seats there. Yeah, you can find cheaper ones used or out of a 'you wrench it' type, but I wanted a nice, new one.

A link to the one I ordered on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRGPXM/?tag=gtplanet-20

$160 delivered


Andretti
 
Andretti
Just an fyi....I've had a HELL of a time trying to find a single, reclinable seat that had sliders. Most ebay sales were for pairs of seats, and even then while not horribly priced, the shipping doubled the cost (from just $150, to $300 after shipping).

I finally hit amazon tonite and found some new ones going for as low (for the style I wanted) as $130 up to $160....with FREE shipping.

Just wanted to let anyone know who is building this pvc cockpit about the seats there. Yeah, you can find cheaper ones used or out of a 'you wrench it' type, but I wanted a nice, new one.

A link to the one I ordered on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CRGPXM/?tag=gtplanet-20

$160 delivered


Andretti
Click to expand...


Not sure about other locales' U Wrench it Types but the ones around here charge $32 USD regardless of the car it came from... Buddy just pulled the driver's seat out of an 08' Mustang for that price... actually, after that, I'm not sure if he's still my friend. lol
 
Tweepent
Not sure about other locales' U Wrench it Types but the ones around here charge $32 USD regardless of the car it came from... Buddy just pulled the driver's seat out of an 08' Mustang for that price... actually, after that, I'm not sure if he's still my friend. lol
Click to expand...
:scared:

I have a '06 Mustang GT....I couldnt take a poor defenseless seat from a mustang. Even a wrecked one. It'd be sacrilege.

newwheels003.jpg



Andretti
 
Andretti
:scared:

I have a '06 Mustang GT....I couldnt take a poor defenseless seat from a mustang. Even a wrecked one. It'd be sacrilege.



Andretti
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Sacrilege? people take engine's all the time and that actually comes from the manufacturer of the car (well, generally). The seat comes from some oem seat place just like the rear view mirror and other generic crap. Heck even bugatti's have some switches and other misc items that are also used on audi's.
 
I'm SO ANGRY :mad: I made a mistake on the front part of the rig and didn't realize it until after both sides were glued and inseparable...now what....I removed one of the sides but cracked a Tee, and the other side wont budge. i hate this stupid gluing!
Any suggestions anybody? please, I need help on how to separate the glued PVC.
 
lilplayaforlife
I'm SO ANGRY :mad: I made a mistake on the front part of the rig and didn't realize it until after both sides were glued and inseparable...now what....I removed one of the sides but cracked a Tee, and the other side wont budge. i hate this stupid gluing!
Any suggestions anybody? please, I need help on how to separate the glued PVC.
Click to expand...

you could always try trimming/sanding the part that you glued all the way down assuming you're trying to get an elbow or tee off instead of a pipe.
 
Thanks simul8r and SlowEddy for the inspiration and blueprints!!!!

heres what i came up with. i might redo how i mount the board on the back half so i can connect them/bolt them together

a4fa4268.jpg
 
Hi, good job on this! really want to make my own, just need to get some money together: the fittings aren't cheap.
I have a question regarding the design: How tall are you? I'm wondering if I'll need to make slight changes. I know the seat is adjustable, but I want to get the distance between the wheel and pedals right first time. btw, I'm 6'2
cheers
 
If I may help a little with this question (Eddy, hope you don't mind). Loveninja, the original basic construction calls for less joint fittings than what Eddy used to design his. Primarily, in his seat area I raised my seat sliders with just salvaged caster wheels and not extra fittings like he has. In the original design the steering wheel platform just calls for 1 'T' and not 2. The extra pipe under the shifter pipe is actually not necessary nor does it provide extra support unless your planning on mounting a very large monitor to the front. In actuality, you can save quite a bit from extra fittings following the basic design if your sticking to a budget as I had when first building mine. Hope this helped.

Oh and btw, I'm 5'11", I'm not sure if Eddy kept the original length with mine but if he did than I would suggest increasing it slightly longer and higher for your height just to be sure by around 2 inches.
 
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Thank to both simul8r and Eddy for sharing your guys blueprint, both of you gave me to built my own one. I have to change some length since some of the fitting in Thailand is different from yours.

To:simul8r
from above post i may have some comment if you don't mind. i think if you don't have the shifter bar, it might lose it rigidity if you didn't add that T that you mention (In case their wheel don't have shifter, I think you may not have to add shifter bar) but it just my opinion.

BTW thanks again to you guys

PS. Pardon me for my English
 
lilplayaforlife
I'm SO ANGRY :mad: I made a mistake on the front part of the rig and didn't realize it until after both sides were glued and inseparable...now what....I removed one of the sides but cracked a Tee, and the other side wont budge. i hate this stupid gluing!
Any suggestions anybody? please, I need help on how to separate the glued PVC.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain, I screwed up a section while gluing thing together as well, and broke a tee trying to while remove it (there's a pic on the first page) - I had to re build that piece form scratch again - i also opted to bolt many pieces together after that little screw up. hope you were able to fix yours.


TheLoveNinja
Hi, good job on this! really want to make my own, just need to get some money together: the fittings aren't cheap.
I have a question regarding the design: How tall are you? I'm wondering if I'll need to make slight changes. I know the seat is adjustable, but I want to get the distance between the wheel and pedals right first time. btw, I'm 6'2
cheers
Click to expand...

I'm 5'8" and I have my seat almost fully forward - I would recommend extending Part #1(PVC 9") on the front assembly drawing if you want to extend the seating position more.


simul8r
If I may help a little with this question (Eddy, hope you don't mind). Loveninja, the original basic construction calls for less joint fittings than what Eddy used to design his. Primarily, in his seat area I raised my seat sliders with just salvaged caster wheels and not extra fittings like he has. In the original design the steering wheel platform just calls for 1 'T' and not 2. The extra pipe under the shifter pipe is actually not necessary nor does it provide extra support unless your planning on mounting a very large monitor to the front. In actuality, you can save quite a bit from extra fittings following the basic design if your sticking to a budget as I had when first building mine. Hope this helped.

Oh and btw, I'm 5'11", I'm not sure if Eddy kept the original length with mine but if he did than I would suggest increasing it slightly longer and higher for your height just to be sure by around 2 inches.
Click to expand...

Sim is right, the extra supports are not necessary if you plan on gluing everything together as an entire rigid frame. I only added the extra support because the front and rear are separate pieces on mine.

btw Sim in must be really cool to see people from all over the world use your design eh?:sly:
 
Yeah Eddy thank god I got my build back on track after sawing those pieces out and adding new PVC that I had to refabricate.
Now everything is coming to an end :) I got a brand new Otto-r bucket seat today and the wood for the mounts.
Eddy what's the measurements of the seat base on your build? Right now the piece I have is 24x24 and I want it to be like yours so how much should I cut?
 
Thanks for the replies! Sorry took so long to post back. I have just received one of them Rocker play chair things (mucho thanks to my friend for that!) so now I'll have to make adjustments to the design anyway. It's pretty heavy and I can't help think that the pvc pipe wont be enough. May have to fashion a mostly wood mount for the seat.
I was planning on doing what you done, Eddy. Have the front and seat sections as seperate units, and make them more permanent once I'm happy with the seating arrangement.
Any ideas on how i could mount a Rocker chair into this schematic?
Thanks again, you guys are awesome 👍
 
CrossFireS
To:simul8r
from above post i may have some comment if you don't mind. i think if you don't have the shifter bar, it might lose it rigidity if you didn't add that T that you mention (In case their wheel don't have shifter, I think you may not have to add shifter bar) but it just my opinion.
Click to expand...

And you are absolutely right CrossFireS. Only if the shifter bar was planned to be removed from the entire rig then the lower support 'T' should be added to keep the pod rigid for simming purposes. I just wanted to point out to LoveNinja that the basic design (mine) doesn't require a great deal of PVC/ABS fittings that do add up at the end for those on a tight budget. Especially those who live in areas where pipe fittings cost 2 or 3 times as much compared to what I paid for here in the US.

SlowEddy
I feel your pain, I screwed up a section while gluing thing together as well, and broke a tee trying to while remove it (there's a pic on the first page) - I had to re build that piece form scratch again - i also opted to bolt many pieces together after that little screw up. hope you were able to fix yours.

btw Sim in must be really cool to see people from all over the world use your design eh?:sly:
Click to expand...

I'll admit myself, I screwed up the first time when building mine. I must have lost a third of the fittings when I glued a piece wrong. Which was almost the entire front of the pod. Measure twice of thrice and mark the joining pipe/fittings before moving on to glueing and assembling helps. BTW, using a slow curing adhesive like Liquid Nails rather than PVC/ABS instant curing glue should give the builder more time to work with especially if a mistake was made. Or if you have the time and drill gun - screw the rig together as Eddy did.

@Eddy, honestly I had no idea that my rig would take off like this. I originally just started a thread on LumenLab just to get others to share theirs. It's really amazing.
 
TheLoveNinja
Thanks for the replies! Sorry took so long to post back. I have just received one of them Rocker play chair things (mucho thanks to my friend for that!) so now I'll have to make adjustments to the design anyway. It's pretty heavy and I can't help think that the pvc pipe wont be enough. May have to fashion a mostly wood mount for the seat.
I was planning on doing what you done, Eddy. Have the front and seat sections as seperate units, and make them more permanent once I'm happy with the seating arrangement.
Any ideas on how i could mount a Rocker chair into this schematic?
Thanks again, you guys are awesome 👍
Click to expand...

LoveNinja, you mean a rocker chair like this builder used on his rig? http://cheatingnetwork.net/forums/gaming/75614-alaifs-racing-simulator-cockpit.html
 
simul8r
LoveNinja, you mean a rocker chair like this builder used on his rig? http://cheatingnetwork.net/forums/gaming/75614-alaifs-racing-simulator-cockpit.html
Click to expand...

Not quite as good as that, it's this one. It has speakers in the top (which my friend's children have pushed the dome bits in. Tried vacuuming them out but no joy) and a bass speaker in the back rest. Not too fussed about that for now. Just trying to figure out how best to go about incoorporating this seat into the design.
images
 
TheLoveNinja
Not quite as good as that, it's this one. It has speakers in the top (which my friend's children have pushed the dome bits in. Tried vacuuming them out but no joy) and a bass speaker in the back rest. Not too fussed about that for now. Just trying to figure out how best to go about incoorporating this seat into the design.
images
Click to expand...

Personally, I wouldn't be using a rocker chair for simming. I honestly think they will induce excessive back problems from constantly tilting foward whilst pushing on the steering wheel, padals and such. Even in realistic driving you find yourself exerting in your seat more ways than one. If your on a tight budget than a trip to your local auto salvage yard might prove interesting for you or perhaps even Craigslist for that matter. I picked up a used Integra passenger seat for less than $20 US (sliders and all) from a nearby yard. Just bring some tools just in case you find something. :)
 
I have some information on the different types of PVC fittings. The ones used in Eddy's design, the "chunky fittings, are DWV (drain, waste, and vent) fittings. If you want "smooth" fittings look for pressure fittings, these are used in water supply lines.

The pressure fittings will also be more suitable for using fasteners instead of gluing because they have a longer connection area than the DWV fittings.
 
To:Simul8r

I see your point now. I just finish mine without using and glue!!!, since i cut the pipe with jigsaw so it don't quiet accuracy in length that why i don't want to use glue since i has to assemble/disassemble many time I just lock it together by drill screw (many point on front section need 2-4 screw to make sure it secure in my view) this way i can disassemble it to change design or move it.

To: '85fierogt
I think this type is good enough from my built. And since pressure fitting cost twice(in Thailand i'm not sure about us)compare to DMV type(I spent 15$ for pipe&around 30$ for fitting) so I choose this one and it secure enough from my test but you may need many screw to secure it(I'm also not sure the effect if you using bolt and nut to lock but i found its harder to connect it that way). by the way if possible make sure that you check the fitting size in your country since in my case width of the front and rear section is different from the blueprint when i assembled it (seat part is 1 in. shorter that front in width, and i didn't change the with from eddy's blueprint, i assume that fitting size is different (or i might make mistake without figure it out yet but it finished now -_-")

Thk again to Eddy and Simul8r
 
AAACCCCKKKK!!! Eddie, fix your pics!!! Hehe, I got my seat today and am trying to assemble and I need the reference!! None of your photo's are showing, just says 'bandwidth exceeded'.


LOL thanks.


Andretti
 
Andretti
AAACCCCKKKK!!! Eddie, fix your pics!!! Hehe, I got my seat today and am trying to assemble and I need the reference!! None of your photo's are showing, just says 'bandwidth exceeded'.


LOL thanks.


Andretti
Click to expand...

eeek my free photo bucket account has reached the 10gig monthly Bandwidth limit. they say it won't pics wont be active again until "the 14th of the month" unless i upgrade to premium :s ..

which pictures do you need?
 

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